TOGWT

Flexathene® Thermoplastic Polyolefin's are manufactured from polycarbonates or polymer blends and are used for aerodynamic spoilers, bumper covers and wings. They are a very porous vinyl with a `flex-agent' to ensure its flexibility and prevent `spider web' cracking (will only help with ‘touch’ type bumps and temperature expansion) Point is ensure that the paint shop uses a flex agent in the paint (as I’m sure any reputable shop will) JonM

OK you've got my attention (once I got past the 'sponge' traps grit etc) where do you buy these from, I'd like to try it... JonM

cpr_carpender from Jacksonville Florida, hello from Ponte Vedra Beach Florida (some 10+ miles apart ) The klasse twins as they are known on Autopia is an excellent choice for our weather. If you'd like a methodology just ask Suggest 2 x AIO (to ensure complete coverage) and 3 x SG (4 x on the 'lower' front half of the vehicle) As an added precaution I’d add a coat of Carnauba wax the for the express purpose of applying a renewable protective coating to automotive paint is to act as a sacrificial barrier against air borne contaminants; this barrier can be reapplied when the wax has eroded. FWIW- my take on Carnauba wax (with an emphasis on high temerature encountered) through dissipation Carnauba wax are limited in their protecting capabilities. More specifically, these wax compounds have a melting point of 180 degree. F. When the temperature of the painted surface exceeds the melting point of the compound applied thereon, the waxes will melt from a hard wax to oil. When this occurs, the waxes are easily washed off and, more importantly, will pick up dust particles and other air pollutants. In actual practice, the temperature frequently leads to melting of the wax compounds (which also contains solvents and sometime Beeswax (130oF low melting points). For example, painted surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 80oF in direct sunlight, will rise up to a temperature of 185degree F or more. Consequently, the extremely fine film of wax covering the peaks of the painted surface is very quickly dissipated, leaving them exposed to the elements to become oxidized. If the paint finishes contain silver or aluminium metallic particles, then the wax coatings would provide little or no protection, since the metallic particles retain more heat and, therefore, rapidly destroy the protection of the waxes. JonM

Optically Perfect Shine: An optically perfect shine is the result of a clean prepared paint surface. The contributing factors: a)Reflectivity – that comes from a clean and level surface b)Gloss-a surface shine and its ability to reflect light with a minimum of distortion or light diffusion c)Optical depth-comes from an applied product that is two-dimensional, so that light is reflected from both a high and low source (i.e. a Carnauba waxes ‘egg-grate’ type structure) as opposed to a polymer elongated and flat ‘chain-link’ type mesh d)Transparency-or clarity of the applied product, which will enable all the above components to be clearly visible e)Optimising light refraction -apply product in ‘direction of airflow’, horizontal surfaces hood to trunk, vertical surfaces front to back. This application technique affects the paints optical properties by optimising light refraction and the reflectivity of the bodylines and contours of the vehicle Unfortunately white paint by its nature has very little optical reflectivity or depth so you will not accomplish a depth of shine with white paint as you would with darker colours (i.e. black). I’d go with a polymer sealant. JonM

I agree

My suggestion- Klasse Cleaner/Protectant one month and then alternate with the 303 Aerospace Protectant to provide UVR protection evry other month. JonM

Autopia Acronyms #00 Meguiar's Hi-Tech Wash, See Meguiar's #1 Meguiar's Medium-Cut Cleaner, See Meguiar's #2 Meguiar's Fine-Cut Cleaner, See Meguiar's #3 Meguiar's Machine Glaze, See Meguiar's #4 Meguiar's Heavy-Cut Cleaner, See Meguiar's #5 Meguiar's New Car Glaze, See Meguiar's #6 Meguiar's Cleaner/Wax, See Meguiar's #7 Meguiar's Show Car Glaze, See Meguiar's #9 Meguiar's Swirl Remover 2.0, See Meguiar's #10 Meguiar's Clear Plastic Polish, See Meguiar's #16 Meguiar's Professional Paste Wax, See Meguiar's #17 Meguiar's Clear Plastic Cleaner, See Meguiar's #18 Meguiar's Clear Plastic Detailer, See Meguiar's #20 Meguiar's Polymer Sealant, See Meguiar's #26 Meguiar's Hi-Tech Yellow Wax, See Meguiar's #34 FI Meguiar's Final Inspection, See Meguiar's #36 Meguiar's Hi-Tech Cleaner, See Meguiar's #38 Meguiar's Tire & Trim Dressing Gel, See Meguiar's #39 Meguiar's Heavy Duty Vinyl Cleaner, See Meguiar's #40 Meguiar's Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner, See Meguiar's #62 Meguiar's Car Wash Shampoo and Conditioner, See Meguiar's #66 Meguiar's Quick Detailer, See Meguiar's #80 MSG Meguiar's Speed Glaze, See Meguiar's #81 HP Meguiar's Body Shop Professional Hand Polish, See Meguiar's #82 SFP Meguiar's Body Shop Professional Swirl Free Polish, See Meguiar's #83 DACP Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner/Polish, See Meguiar's #84 Compound Power Cleaner #85 Diamond Cut Compound #96 Medallion Premium Leather Cleaner #97 MPPC Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner #98 MPPP Medallion Premium Paint Polish JonM

The evaporation of acidic moisture (See page 1 A-Z) is the key element to paint film surface damage, and any steps taken to eliminate its occurrence will alleviate this problem. It should be noted that both sulphuric and Nitric acids (released from the burning of fossil fuels, inc internal combustion engines) are also contained in fog and snow, even when they are a dry acidic compound once they alight on a paint surface and mix with precipitation (dew or rain) they will start to erode the paint. The sun heat further accelerates this problem. Protect your investment with a car cover, outdoors, car covers offer unequalled protection against ultraviolet radiation (UVR) they are manufactured to be water-resistant and are available in various breathable fabric materials that provide protection from acid rain, pollution, bird excrement, tree sap and wind blown debris, as well as protection against every type of climatic conditions, can be used for both long-term indoor or outdoor vehicle storage. Covercraft Products are well known in the automotive industry as the largest manufacturer of custom patterned car covers in the world. Started in 1965 as a two-person company, now with over 500-employee’s supplying the automotive after market, original equipment manufacturers (OEM) and speciality markets with over 45,000 custom cover patterns. Made in the USA with the QS 9000 standards rating award, meeting strict international quality standards. www.carcoverworld.com For relative ease of handling choose a cover with a fabric weight of between 4-7 oz per sq. yd. Used for long-term vehicle storage, either in the garage or outdoors, car covers protect against accidental scratches and dings from passers-by, car doors, lawn mowers, sporting equipment, bikes and pets. Product Selection: Vehicle Storage Indoor: Dustop TM- 4 layer cover with maximum dust protection, and its soft inner layer protects paint. Light and easy to handle, prevents dings, for inside protection from dust and dirt, ideal for indoor vehicle storage Long Term Outdoor: WeathersheildTM HD- primarily for intense sun environments and long-term storage provides optimum protection from water, dust, tree sap, while providing long-term UVR protection and maximum weatherproof protection from a multi-layer breathable (heavyweight) fabric. Outdoor Weather Protection? For fabric see Outdoor Fabric Guide All Weather: WeathersheildTM - single layer construction, maximum weatherproof, superior dry time, breathable, scratch-less, durable, easy care, and packs small and light made from a durable breathable polymer fabric. Provides protection from UVR, acid rain, dust, dirt, intense sunlight and its storm proof (force 8 hurricane) Severe Rain Storms: EvolutionTM (TechnalonTM)- a heavyweight, four-layer fabric ultrasonically bonded to provide more water resistance than most covers as well as UVR protection for extended outdoor use, but especially heavy rain protection. Places a soft, paint protecting finish against the vehicles surfaces, also provide impact protection from nicks, dings, dents and scratches. Inclement Weather: NoahTM by Kimberly ClarkTM — one third less the material weight of the EvolutionTM cover, a three-layer fabric ultrasonically bonded to provide more water resistance than most covers as well as UVR protection for extended outdoor use, but especially heavy rain protection. Places a soft, paint protecting finish against the vehicles surfaces ~Hope this helps~ JonM

Quote: I would like to wax my car, anyone have any recommendations? ~One man’s opinion / observations I looked in my book for “Best wax/sealant” and came up with nothing :) … but I did find this- Product Choices: What are the criteria used to choose one product over another? 1.Aesthetic value (How does a product ‘look’ on a particular type and colour of paint) 2.Ease of application (Is it easy to apply, does the residue buff off easily) 3.Durability (How long will a product last and go on proving protection) The aesthetics of a vehicles appearance is very subjective to say the least (beauty is after all in the ‘guy’ of the beholder) the only best Wax or Sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you. It really does all come down to; 85% preparation, 5% product 7% application methodology and the balance is in the ‘guy’ of the beholder. Ease of application and durability are both very easily researched through either product use experience or detailing forums. A manufacturer is free to place any claim of excellence he wants on his product to make it sell, judge products on their merits rather than personal preference, brand loyalty or emotions. Finally-“ It’s the surface preparation that makes the most difference, not the product”. ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one] justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

TOGWT post http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=15808

~One man’s opinion / observations Methodology:  Thoroughly rinse wheels to remove any loose surface dirt or dust  Clean surfaces with a diluted (APC) all-purpose citrus-based cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) Agitate with a soft boar’s hair wheel brush and rinse with low-pressure clean water  If necessary use a polish to restore the lustre of polished metal and prevent re-oxidation (Iz Einszett® Metal Polish "Chrompflege) and remove residue with a clean, dry micro fibre towel  Use a one-step product (Klasse All-In-One) to provide both cleaning and long-term polymer protection, this will also make future cleaning easier.  Apply with a damp applicator; remove residue with a clean, dry micro fibre towel, and finally buff surface to a shine. Maintenance- clean surfaces with a diluted (APC) all-purpose citrus-based cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one] justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

~One man’s opinion / observations You may well find that this- Cosmoline: Is a protection used on new cars during shipment. It is applied to the paint film surface, engine and wheels to provide a barrier against exposure to the elements. Using a petroleum-based solvent to remove it can do irreversible harm to the vehicle finish. By using a non-caustic, acid-free, citrus based, biodegradable citrus cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) will avoid any damage and safely remove the Cosmoline, or any oils or grease that may have been applied for protection. If this 'grease' is on the interior glass use Stoner's Invisible Glass (no you don't have to be stoned to use it LOL) ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one] justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

WD-40 is formulated from a hydrocarbon (petroleaum) distillate (Aromatic) that (long-term) will attack rubber/polymers ~Hope this helps~

~One man’s opinion / observations~ Removing Oxidation or scratches from Vehicle headlights, Brake lights (polycarbonate) Most vehicles now have a protective, transparent, plastic lens covering the headlights to protect expensive lamps (headlight assemblies range from 500-$700+) from flying stones and road debris. They discolour over time, becoming opaque and cloudy, these lenses can severely restrict the amount of light reaching the road. UVR induced discoloration (yellowing) will permeate through the plastic over time and is caused by accumulated exposure to ultraviolet light. While most of the cloudiness is on the surface, severely discoloured lens cannot be brought back to optical clarity. If you live in a southern state, this discoloration can become noticeable in as little as two-years Application Methodology: ·Use a solvent type cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) if this does not remove the oxidation use a plastic polish Meguiar’s PlastX or Renovo Plastic Cleaner ·Plastic Cleaners can be used to clean and condition Perspex as well as flexible plastic but is not suitable for use on glass. ·Prior to application of a plastic polish ensure that the window is clean and free from dust particles by washing with a soft cloth and warm water. ·It is not advisable to use cleaning detergents on plastic. ·Shake the bottle thoroughly. Plastic polish can be hand or machine applied ·Using a random orbital buffer with a 3.5-inch backing plate and a 4-inch (LC White) polishing pad or a terry cloth applicator ·Place a small dab (about ½-inch diameter) of plastic polish on the foam pad or applicator. ·Place the pad on the lens surface and turn on the machine (speed #4) ·Polish the lens repeatedly in a left-to-right and an up and down pattern. ·Continue polishing until all the polish is gone ·Wipe the lens with a damp Microfiber towel ·Inspect the lens, repeat the polishing process 2-3 times as necessary ·Plastic polish will not remove clarity defects that are within the plastic but it will remove external/surface scratching and oxidation (yellowing) ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one] justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

~One man’s opinion / observations~ Mildew / Mould: Remove the seats and thoroughly clean the carpet with a carpet cleaner and a disinfectant. Then let it air dry, ensuring that it is completely dry. The carpet backing will absorb the most, spray the affected areas with a disinfectant (both the carpet backing and the carpet) clean the carpet using steam extractors upholstery attachments, and then re-install the seats. Spread baking powder on the mats/carpets, this will help absorb the odours. To eliminate the musty smell use an odour-neutralizing mineral made from porous volcanic rock (Zeolite®, Groit’s Garage) This type of product absorbs odours, eliminates stale musty air, and will reduce any noxious oil or gasoline fumes. It is non-toxic and when it stops working can be re-charged by warming in a microwave or in the sun. ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one] justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

I'm in total agreement with SW03ES on this one. Out of interest do they list what the package comprises?

~One man’s opinion / observations~ Paint Saving (Clear Plastic Shield): A clear, protective shield is excellent at protecting painted areas more prone to chips and scratches (door sills, front of the hood, etc). Simply cut the desired size, apply positioning spray to the surface, move the cut shield into place, then squeegee out the Positioning Spray. An instant clear shield that protects your paint, use it on front ends, along door edges, around tire wells, inside doorjambs, along doorsills, painted bumpers or jambs, peel it off at any time and the paint will still look brand new, available in three widths, 4", 2', 3/8" x 12 mils thick. (Groit's PN 77890) Note- do not use on plastic bumpers or repainted surfaces. Another company worth looking into for this type product is Expel ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one] justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

Its always best to get more than one opinion

~One man’s opinion / observations~ Bug & Tar Removers mostly formulated from solvents, which may be a little harsh for a ‘plastic’ type covering. The wood trim in most vehicles it’s protected with a urethane clear coat, polyurethane or a multi-layered thin lacquer, which is very easily scratched. Remove scratches with a fine polish (Groit's Fine Hand Polish) and then wipe with a damp 100% cotton towel. Maintenance- use an anti-static plastic cleaner protectant (BTI Chemicals Plexus@ Glass Polish & Cleaner) ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one] justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

Quote: I've had several car lots over the years as well as a detail shop. First of all i suggest not using any engine solvents/degreasers on later model cars (can play heck on the electrical and ruin your day- older cars like my 80 MZB 240d notta prob). ~One man’s opinion / observations~ Hence: Spray all electrical connectors with WD40, which repels water. Use cling-film or Saran wrap elastic covers to cover any sensors, electrical black boxes, electrical devises that could cause an electrical short-circuits if subjected to water spray. This will not guarantee that you wont cause a problem when cleaning an engine bay but it will greatly reduce the risks. ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one] justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

~One man’s opinion / observations~ Once you removed the water spots as best you can (try an abrasive polish and #0000 synthetic teel wool) and then re-dye the surface with a permanent dye. This procedure is only for black trim. Use a Forever Black Kit to restore a dark, black finish on sun-faded or bleached vinyl, rubber or plastic mouldings and bumpers. Forever Black will completely cover the worst wax stains or sun-faded trim with a finish that will not wash off. The Forever Black Kit contains 4 oz. of Cleaner Concentrate and 4 oz. of Forever Black Dye ·Start by applying the cleaner concentrate to a sponge or cloth and wiping the trim. This removes any silicones or oils on the surface. ·Next apply a coating of Forever Back Dye using the shoe-dauber type applicator on the bottle. This dye is designed to bond to vinyl, rubber and plastic. It will not permanently adhere to glass, chrome or paintwork. If you happen to get dye on paintwork or glass, use a damp cloth to wipe it off. If dye should dry on paintwork or glass, it is easily removed with a tar remover. Forever Black Dye will permanently stain cloth so wear old clothing or an apron when applying the dye. Forever Black Dye dries in 5 to 20 minutes. No buffing is required. ·One application is typically enough to cover most stains. A second application may be required to cover severely stained or sun faded mouldings. Wait 30 minutes between coats. After treatment, I recommend protecting the trim with 303 Aerospace Protectant. Spray 303 on a cloth or applicator pad and give the trim a quick once over. ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one] justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

~One man’s opinion / observations~ Most modem automotive wheels have a painted aluminium base with two or three clear coats applied and are subjected to similar type contaminants as the paint film surface, including acid rain, airborne pollutants, alkaline water as well as road tar debris. Treat the finish of painted wheels as you would the paint finish of the vehicle There are many owners that don't know what material their wheels are made of, more specifically wither the surface of the wheel is coated or un-coated bare metal. If these people use the wrong wheel cleaner, especially a strong chemical alkali and/or acid-based wheel cleaner, they can and often will stain or discolour their wheels. You didn’t say what product you used but it sounds like something fairly strong aggravated by scrubbing with a (nylon?) bristled brush. Is the wheel surface scratched or discolored? This is why we ask for a photograph, its far easier to analysis a problem by seeing it as opposed to guessing by from a worded description (plus we like to see photos of your car LOL) ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one] justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

~One man’s opinion / observations~ Removing Oxidation from Vehicle headlights, Brake lights (polycarbonate) Most vehicles now have a protective, transparent, plastic lens covering the headlights to protect expensive lamps (headlight assemblies range from 500-$700+) from flying stones and road debris. They discolour over time, becoming opaque and cloudy, these lenses can severely restrict the amount of light reaching the road. This clouding is caused by accumulated exposure to ultraviolet light. If you live in a southern state, this discoloration can become noticeable in as little as two-years Methodology: ·Use a solvent type cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) if this does not remove the oxidation use a plastic polish Meguiar’s PlastX or Renovo Plastic Cleaner ·Plastic Cleaners can be used to clean and condition Perspex as well as flexible plastic but is not suitable for use on glass. ·Prior to application of a plastic polish ensure that the window is clean and free from dust particles by washing with a soft cloth and warm water. ·It is not advisable to use cleaning detergents on plastic windows. ·Shake the bottle thoroughly. Plastic polish can be hand or machine applied ·Using a random orbital buffer with a 3.5-inch backing plate and a 4-inch (LC White) polishing pad or a terry cloth applicator ·Place a small dab (about ½-inch) of plastic polish on the foam pad or applicator. ·Place the pad on the lens surface and turn on the machine (speed #4) ·Polish the lens repeatedly in a left-to-right and an up and down pattern. ·Continue polishing until all the polish is gone ·Wipe the lens with a damp Microfiber towel ·Inspect the lens, repeat the polishing process if necessary Plastic polish will not remove clarity defects that are within the plastic but it will remove external/surface scratching and oxidation (yellowing) ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~One man’s opinion / observations~ I have resisted writing a guide for the use of a high-speed polisher in the past because they can remove and/or burn paint and create swirl and buffer marks if used improperly. A high-speed polisher actually removes the swirl by removing the layer of paint down to the lowest point of the swirl. With a little patience, practice and common sense, an enthusiast can master the skill needed to create a swirl-free, mirror bright finish. Staying within the speed range of 1,000 – 1,500 rpm, providing you are careful not to hold the pad in one place for too long, and paying attention when you come to the `edge' of a panel or a body contour it will not cause any damage or paint burn. Staying within this speed range it's pretty much idiot-proof (I can use it, what does that tell you) ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~One man’s opinion / observations~ White metallic- I use Klasse (AIO & SG) and Pinnacle Signature Series Wax as an LSP When a client comes to pick up his white car and it sitting next to a black or dark coloured vehicle and he stats to compare finishes, I find this combination gives the best reflection I can get from white paint. ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon