TOGWT

~One man’s opinion / observations~ Ice Scraper Tough 10-inch acrylic ice and frost scraper with raised knuckles for additional ice cutting power and a curved handle for easy use. (http://automotive.aubuchonhardware.com) ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~One man’s opinion / observations~ A degreaser made for automotive use (Autoglym Engine Cleaner) will not harm surfaces found in the engine bay, the idea is to apply let them do their work and then thoroughly rinse away. Its when they are left for an extended period of time they could do damage Engine Detailing Methodology: ·Remove any excess debris; leaves and etc form the hood, grille or air-vent openings. ·Spray all electrical connectors with WD40, which repels water. ·Use cling-film or Saran wrap elastic covers to cover any sensors, electrical black boxes, electrical devises that could cause an electrical short-circuits if subjected to water spray. ·This will not guarantee that you wont cause a problem when cleaning an engine bay but it will greatly reduce the risks. ·Start and run the engine to get it warm, not hot, this will enable the de-greaser to work more efficiently on a warm surface. ·Apply an engine de-greaser (Autoglym Engine Cleaner) by lightly spraying the lower parts of the engine first and then working upwards. ·Do not allow the de-greaser to dry or remain on painted surfaces, and be sure to dilute with water and dry with a cloth. ·For heavily soiled areas agitate with a nylon engine cleaning brush and a diluted general purpose cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash) ·When the grease and grime is dissolved and you're ready to remove it, spray with a light (garden type) pressure water hose. ·Use the blower side of a vacuum (avoid area that may be sensitive to a forced air flow) or allow the engine compartment to air dry and then thoroughly wipe down all accessible surfaces and then remove cling-film or aluminum foil. ·When everything is dry apply a vinyl/rubber protectant to hoses, shields and wires, and spray engine parts with CD2 Engine Detailer or Groit's Spay on Engine Gloss ·Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth and apply a wax/sealant protection to painted surfaces. Engine Detailing Brushes: Use the appropriate detailing brush for the different surfaces found in the engine compartment ·Horse hair brush for painted surfaces ·A Nylon brush for plastic components ·Brass for aluminum parts ·Stainless steel for steel parts I would recommend wearing a pair of latex cloves while working on the engine compartment. Road grime, tar and grease are very difficult to remove from underneath your fingernails. Outside of the garage your hands shouldn't look like you need lessons in personal grooming CD2 Engine Detailer An easy to use two- step aerosol system, that cleans and preps and then details engine. Cleans, protects and shines all under the hood surfaces. Very fast acting formulas, dries tack free and leaves no greasy residue. Repels grease, dirt and moisture. Protects rubber and plastic engine components from cracking and drying. Protects painted and metal surfaces from rust and corrosion. (midwayautosupply.com) And after all this work- ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~One man’s opinion / observations~ A rotary polisher is for the skilled enthusiast or professional detailer, using the high speed (0-3,000 RPM, 10 amp motor) and heat to enable compounds to abrade the paint film surface that require more power /speed (3 amp motor, 2,500 – 6,000 orbits per minute) than an random orbital buffer could provide. It is not unusual for a detailer to use a high-speed machine to compound a vehicle and then switch to a dual action, random orbital machine (Porter Cable TM 7336) to apply a pre-wax cleaner, a wax or sealant. ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

Quote: Never Go Through A Carwash, when your lex is old... :( ~One mans opinion / observations~ Never Go Through A Carwash, [when your lex is old...] period :( ‘Touch less’ carwash: This type of automatic car wash use high-pressure water and strong detergent to clean vehicles, also be aware of those that use ‘wheel guides’ as they will cause scratches / etching to the wheel surfaces. You will also need to renew the vehicles sealant / wax to ensure the paint surface protection on a regular basis to counteract the effects of the harsh detergents. ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~One mans opinion / observations~ Sort of / kind of subject related…your best maintenance product once you’ve got the weather stripping replaced would be a Sunbrella car cover to protect the vehicle from Florida sun, Sunbrella has the best UVR protection of the various car covers Greetings from Florida the [sunshine] plywood state <_< ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

Quote: TOGWT, you recommended two other products that I haven't heard of - the Iz Einzett products. Where could I find those online? ~One mans opinion / observations~ Sorry for the delay in answering but we had some ‘girl’ problems, named Jeanne -Florida the [sunshine] plywood State You can purchase Iz products from Autopia.org ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~One mans opinion / observations~ So question #1 is can the leather be restored (cracks and maybe holes). And How. If not, how much does a re-upholster run on average? A: Fill Cracks and Scratches-clean and prepare the leather surfaces as in 10a above and apply Leatherique Crack Filler: (leatherique.com) ·Apply flexible filler inside the crack, level with a spatula. ·Using damp 100% cotton towel remove filler on the surface outside the crack before it dries. ·Allow to air dry for thirty minutes and then wet-sand with 400 grit and a rubber sanding block. ·Repeat until the fill is perfectly level and smooth. ·Even light scratches and roughened areas will take more than one application. ·Allow the filler to dry overnight before sitting on a seat that has been filled. ·Allow to air dry for forty-eight hours before the application of a dye. Re-upholstery costs I have no idea of but would suggest you get an estimate from a reputable leather upholstery shop Also my car is black, and for a 1992 the paint is still glossy and shiny. HOWEVER it has swirls, they only show up when light is hitting the paint at a 90-degree angle. But they are ugly nonetheless. Question #2 what is the most painless way to remove the swirls? A: Temporary-Apply a Glaze-It’s an emulsion formulated from polymer paint and Carnauba wax that `fills in' small paint surface scratches, abrasions and swirl marks, without removing them. Sometimes called Show Glaze as it's a purely aesthetic product as it's filling abilities usually wear off in a matter of days before the surface abrasions become visible again, washing the paint film surface will accelerate this process. After the application of a glaze the paint film surface will require a protective wax or sealant A2. Permanent-a random orbital buffer and a Machine Polish, are used to remove surface imperfections and are formulated with lubricants, solvents and water, and abrasive 0.3-micron granules, which diminish with use providing a progressively finer abrasive polish that will burnish the paint surface and provide a gloss. They are buffered or cushioned in a rich, lubricating oil film, usually in a semi-liquid paste. ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

Water Spots: These are caused when the sun evaporates standing water on the vehicles surface and fall into one of two categories (see also Airborne Pollutants page 1) a)Surface water spots: mineral deposits-high calcium content water or the water from a light summer shower that that dries on the surface leaving a calcium / sodium deposit. These can be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits, and then using a solvent type cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) if the surface has been etched then a machine polish should be used to level the surface. b)Below surface water spots: are caused by acid rain or industrial fallout, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a circular mark. These can usually be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits, use either a solvent type cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) to clean or a machine polish to level the surface ·For glass surfaces use Autoglym Glass Polish ·On paint surfaces us Iz Einzett TM Metallic Polish or Iz Einzett TM Paint Polish and reapply surface protection once spots have been removed)

~One mans opinion / observations~ The wood trim in most vehicles is protected with a urethane clear coat, polyurethane or a thin lacquer, which is very easily scratched. Remove scratches with a fine polish (Groit's Fine Hand Polish) and then wipe with a damp 100% cotton towel. Maintenance- use an anti-static plastic cleaner protect rant (BTI Chemicals Plexus@ Glass Polish & Cleaner) ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~One mans opinion / observations~ It would seem to me that Silvermate’s analysis is correct-oxidation it starts as a chemical reaction that causes the paint film surface to overheat, dry out and oxidize, it can appear as a dull and somewhat hazy, or `chalky' appearance to the paint surface. These can usually be removed by using a machine polish to level the surface. (Iz Einzett TM Metallic Polish or Iz Einzett TM Paint Polish) and reapply surface protection once spots have been removed. This is why we ask for a photograph, its far easier to analysis a problem by seeing it as opposed to guessing by from a worded description (plus we like to see photos of your car LOL) ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~One mans opinion / observations~ There are only one or two manufacturers in the US that have the patent rights to detailer’s clay, most clay is repackaged and sold under license from these companies, the largest manufacturer is Clay Magic. Detailer's cleaning clay removes imbedded pollutants by encapsulation or shearing, lifting debris from the paint film surface and leaves behind an ultra-smooth surface that will make your paint protection adhere better and improve its durability. ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

Quote: I've read in a couple of forums that the synthetic waxes can yellow a white or pearl white finish after a few years. The beautiful finish of the diamond pearl white makes me not want to take that chance!!! ~One mans opinion / observations~ Its not polymer sealants or wax that stains paint surfaces but environmental pollution, if the surface is not cleaned (detailers clay, washed and then polished to remove them) on a regular basis (once, twice per year) the paint finish will become stained The paint film surface becomes stained when continually exposed to an outdoor environment and inclement weather. Dirt and pollution accumulate in the microscopic pores and surface imperfections of the paint film surface and causes it to become clouded and grey, which over time causes a staining effect that hides the true colour of the paint system. Light coloured paint shows this staining more than dark colours, white being particularly vulnerable to staining Removing paint staining build-up requires paint safe chemical that will exfoliate dirt particles from the painted surface (like a pre-wax cleaner) ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

Quote: Simoniz is maybe one of the oldest brands of car care products around. Simoniz used to be so synonimus with car care that the act of waxing used to be called "Simonizing" (ever read or see the play Death of a Salesman?) Just a fun factoid. ~One mans opinion / observations~ I’ve been detailing vehicles for five decades and this was the ‘wax de jour’ back then “My first detailed car was a 1929 Bentley that belong to my Fathers friend Brigadier John Dix of Kensington, London. It has always been a relaxing past time for me and while at college I had a part-time business detailing classic vintage cars. I have tried virtually every top product on the market ever since using the arm-breaking Simonizâ as well as Chelseaâ leather cleaners.” I published this back in ‘55 I totally agre with SW03ES don't buy any 'paint protection system' from a dealer, its just a way to part you fromyour money. ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~One man’s opinion / observations~ I’m in agreement on the ‘never use a brush on vehicle paint’ with one exception- When it’s made from boar’s hair- Groit’s Boar’s Hair Flow-Through Brush & Handle (PN 10220 approx $80) For your Christmas ‘wish-list’ a Plateau Platform 18” height x 12” wide x 40” long, will support up to 330Lbs and weights 16.5 lbs (PN 91544 approx 110) same company. My girlfriend is 5’-1 and weights 105lbs so this was (one of) her Christmas presents last year ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~One man’s opinion / observations~ B) Covered Leather (Urethane, Vinyl): Since late ‘80s early ‘90s 80% of vehicle manufacturers have used covered leather for their interior upholstery. Its made from natural hides, but uniquely treated with a light pigmented urethane resin coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, leathers worst enemy Spills wipe off with a moistened cloth, the urethane resin or the vinyl covering require oils to stop it from drying out (just like a paint system's clear coat) the leather also requires replacement of natural oils. Clean, condition and apply a UVR protection as in items 1, 2 & 3 on page 2. Identifying characteristics- uniform colour and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops will not change colour. Recommended products Urethane Coated Leather- use Zanio Leather in a Bottle Z10,Groit's Leather Care or lz einszett® Leather Care "Lederpflege" Vinyl or MB-Tex Covered leather- use Groit's Leather Rejuvenator or Leatherique Prestine Clean ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

Quote: I now have a ton of MF towels that need washing. what can I do? is it ok to wash the towels that have dash protect on them as well? will the wax stick to the washing machine basket? ~One man’s opinion / observations~ Hand or machine wash in hot (120oF<) water with liquid detergent (Sonus Der Wnder Washe) this will remove wax or polish, rinse thoroughly twice, do not use bleach (bleach will shorten the life of your Microfiber cloths.) Do not use fabric softener (most contain silicone that the towel will adsorb and it will weaken the towels static charge thereby reducing their effectiveness) towel will also treat the fabric softener as if it was dirt by trying to store the tiny particles of the softener in the towel fibres. This will clog up the micro fibres and render the towel ineffective. Add a teaspoon per towel distilled white vinegar in place of a softener, the vinegar doesn't coat the fibres but instead works to eliminate detergent residue. Be careful when machine washing or drying in mixed loads (Microfiber cloths will pick up lint from other fabrics.) This should also ensure that no residue ‘sticks’ to the machine basket Air dry or you can dry Microfiber cloths in any dryer on low heat, just be sure that the dryer does not dry at temperatures above 235 degrees F as Microfiber will melt if heated too high. Colours may bleed during first washing. Just recently, a cleaning solution was developed specifically for cleaning Microfiber towels, a product called Micro-Restore Detergent that claims to effectively remove dirt without using the bleaches and softeners commonly found in laundry detergents. ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~ One man’s opinion / observations ~ Matthew McNally / SWO3ES great job guys, that’s what sharing knowledge / experience is all about…Thanks ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

Quote: Any experiences repainting the leather? I tried to find another seat in The Netherlands but I can only buy a whole interieur for Eur. 1200,- ~ One man’s opinion / observations ~ You might want to try a leather dye by leatherique (leatherique.com) ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~ One man’s opinion / observations ~ Normal Cleaning: Spray on a 5:1 solution, or stronger dependant upon stain (Distilled water / Woolite) until damp this product may be used on all water safe materials. The cleaning action increases with warm water, agitation and longer dwell time. Completely wipe away dirt/grime with damp cloth until clean, rinsing out clothe as required. Allow to completely dry before use. Or try STAINMASTER Guide to Stain Removal. ~Hope this helps ~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

Quote: Do you use QD on the exterior glass....and what about the black plastic engine covers? ~ One man’s opinion / observations ~ Q: Do you use QD on the exterior glass? A: No, I use a product called Aquapel (similar type of product to RainX but IMO much, much better) prior to polishing with Autoglym Glass Polish. Q:....and what about the black plastic engine covers? A: I usually use a vinyl type cleaner (Klasse Vinyl Cleaner & Protecterant) ~Hope this helps ~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

Quote: …I've layered 3 coats of Macguires tech wax and really like the shine. I've also been using Macguires [Meguiar’s]QD. ~ One man’s opinion / observations ~ Q: Does using QD remove more wax than washing with car wash solution? A: A quick detailer usually contains wax / solvent / water it has a very limited cleaning ability, unlike a car wash concentrate used to thoroughly clean a vehicle. Q: Can I apply another layer of wax on top of QD, or should I wash the car first? A: You can apply wax over QD; you do not necessarily have to wash the vehicle first. Q: What should QD NOT be applied to, both on the exterior & interior? A: QD sprays are formulated to detail painted vehicle surfaces. I would not use it on vinyl, leather, fabric, rubber and etc Comment: Your post talked about using Meguiar’s NXT and a QD (I've also been using Macguires QD) If the ‘QD’ in question is NXT Spray Wax it's a spray-on booster wax (not a quick detailer per se) that ads protection with ESP technology, while restoring the shine, uses it dry for fast touch-ups to quickly restore a just detailed look. If not ignore this comment… ~Hope this helps ~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~ One man’s opinion / observations ~ Oxidation: Occurs when the paint resin loses it’s natural oils, even the mildest soap will accelerate this condition. Commercial car washes using strong detergents will leach out the oils in the resin and dull the paint film surface even faster. It is also caused by the accumulated exposure to ultra violet (UV) radiation and environmental pollution that has compromised the paint film surface protection. It starts as a chemical reaction that causes the paint film surface to overheat, dry out and oxidize It can appear as a dull and somewhat hazy, or ‘chalky’ appearance to the paint surface, a paint film surface that is adequately protected with wax or a sealant actually has a lower surface temperature than one that is not. A dark colored vehicle parked in the sun can attain a surface temperature of 2000 F Using the least abrasive product first (dependant upon how ‘bad the problem is)- Klasse All-In-One (a solvent type cleaner) P21S Paint Cleaner or Clay Magic Detailers Clay a mildly abrasive machine polish like Groit’s Machine Polish #3 ~Hope this helps ~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~ One man’s opinion / observations ~ Tar Removal: Although its main use is the removal of road tar from the vehicle paint surface, being a solvent it can dissolve a variety of oil and petroleum based products. It's safe to use on all types of paint, plastics, synthetic fibres, carpet and upholstery. If used on vehicle paintwork re-apply a protecterant after use. Other uses - it will dissolve chewing gum and adhesives. Use to de-tar wheel rims after cleaning, will also remove shoe scuffmarks from vinyl trim, and can be used to remove resinous tree sap or fuel stains from paint surfaces. PS: Ice will remove gum from fabric (seats, carpets but does not work on 'hard' surfaces) ~ Hope this helps ~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

Quote: ~ One man’s opinion / observations ~ Water Spots: Water spots on the paint film surface are caused by industrial fallout, high calcium content water or the water from a light summer shower that that dries on the surface leaving a calcium / sodium deposit. If left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a circular mark. These can usually be removed by using detailer’s clay to remove any hardened deposits, and then using a solvent type (Meguiar's Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One) cleaner. If the surface has been etched then a machine polish should be used to level the paints surface and a surface protection reapplied Removing water spots from paint film surface- ·Use detailing clay to remove any ‘hard’ granules ·Use water/distilled white vinegar or a 5:1 Isopropyl Alcohol solution (adjust ratio as required) or try equal parts distilled white vinegar, Isopropyl Alcohol and distilled water to dissolve the alkaline-based mineral water deposits. ·Use a clean spray bottle and a 100% cotton Microfiber cloth to apply the solution to the surface ·Wipe off any residue from and dry with a damp waffle weave towel ·If any ‘water spots’ remain apply Distilled White Vinegar un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on the surface. ·Wipe off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel ·Inspect for smoothness and repeat if necessary. ·If this does not remove the ‘water spots’ use a machine polish The only constant is; Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary, ‘step-up’ to a more abrasive products ~ Hope this helps ~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~ One man’s opinion / observations ~ Tyre Dressings: The porous nature of rubber and polymers attracts dirt, dust, and brake dust and road grime, for any tyre protectant to work well on rubber it must be applied to a clean surface. A rubber cleaner (3M Tire & Wheel Cleaner PN 39096) will remove old dressing, any dead rubber and properly prepare your tyre for the application of a protectant. Spray cleaner on to a clean surface, agitate with a stiff tyre brush, rinse and apply a tyre dressing Water based dressings- Polydimethylsiloxane (usually a milky-white liquid) does not contain silicone oils, petroleum distillates, waxes, or solvents that can harm rubber and / or vinyl over time. Most water-based dressings use a combination of natural oils to offer a non-greasy, satin finish. Most of these products also contain UV blocking agents to help keep tires from cracking, fading and hardening. Most, if not all water-based dressings are biodegradable, whereas Silicone is not. Silicone-based dressings- Dimethyl Silicone (usually a clear greasy liquid) contains petroleum distillates as a cleaning agent. The difference is in the carrier system used. Solvent based products use a hydrocarbon solvent to suspend the product. When you apply it, the solvent evaporates leaving the dressing's active ingredients (Silicone oil) behind. Most bottles have a warning that they contain Petroleum Distillates (manufactures are required by law to have a chemical warning on the container and to provide a material safety data sheet (MSDS) ~ Hope this helps ~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon