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TOGWT

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Everything posted by TOGWT

  1. Quote: could anyone provide some info on the best scratch removers..!!! would be helpful in here. ~One mans opinion / observation~ Virtually all painted surfaces succumb to one or more of these unsightly blemishes. They can be caused by any number of things: kicked-up road debris, uncovered gravel trucks, keying or other types of vandalism, etc. They are not only aesthetically unsightly; the exposed metal is subject to rusting. Vehicles that have a chipped or scratched paint film surface usually affect its re-sale and/or trade-in value. Before deciding upon treatment, you should first access how deep the scratch is and how badly the paint film surface is compromised. a)Surface scratch: probable cause is by automatic car wash or poor cleaning /techniques. This kind of damage is usually confined to the clear coat, and can usually be rectified with a pre-wax cleaner or polish. b)Visible abrasions: dragging an object across the top of the trunk lid often causes this kind of damage, or careless use of the car keys, or even fingernails around the door handles. They can usually be rectified with a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or polish. c)Visible damage: if the scratches show a black or white colour it probably means that it’s compromised the paint system through to the primer. They can usually be rectified by thoroughly cleaning the affected area, then apply a rust preventative primer before the application of both a colour and clear coat with a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or polish. To repair paint chips and deeper scratches that have compromised the vehicles paint system through to the primer coat. Ensure a surface temperature of >600F and allow each coat of paint to dry >2-3 hours Clean-paint-sand level, polish and protect ·Establish the vehicles paint colour code that can be found on a plaque in the engine compartment or from your vehicle dealership. ·Purchase a touch-up paint from the dealership or a touch-up pen from AutoSharp pen (autosharpen.com) ·Test the paint in an inconspicuous area before using to ensure colour match ·Use a cleaning product that will clean the area of oil, crease, dirt, polish and wax (P21S Total Auto Wash) ·Use a sanding block and 1200 grit paper (Meguirer’s Unigrit Block), soak the block and paper overnight, with a water / soap solution 6:1 for lubrication, or a spot sanding tool (Griot’s P/N 50875) using a light to medium pressure to clean any surface rust or deposits of dirt or wax/polish. ·Soak the area to be repaired with the lubrication solution and keep it well lubricated while sanding ·Once the area is thoroughly cleaned, apply a primer using a touch-up paint applicator (Groit’s P/N 50406) ·Dip the tip of the applicator into the primer and gently touch the paint chip with the tip of the applicator. Should you over-fill; use a clean applicator to soak up any excess. ·Once the primer is thoroughly dry, using either the paint applicator, not the oversized brush that comes with the manufactures touch-up paint, or an AutoSharp Pen touch-up paint applicator. The pen features a felt tipped applicator that allows you to literally "colour" the damage away. ·Allow each coat of applied paint to dry for >2-3 hours before the application of subsequent coats ·Use a back and forth motion with the sanding block and paper (do not use circular movements) smooth out the repair and ensure that it is level with the paint film surface Try to limit sanding to the immediate area of the repair ·Use a mild polish to restore surface gloss after carefully rinsing away surface and finish by applying wax / sealant protection Notes: 1.Avoid driving vehicle for about 24 hours after completing repairs and wait approximately 14 days before the application of polish and final protection 2.Thoroughly mix paint in a small plastic cup to ensure even mixing / colour 3.Apply a small amount of paint at a time and allow air-drying for 2-3 hours before the application of further coats. 4.Apply multiple coats of colour paint, not one heavy application and you will obtain a far better finish ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
  2. ~One mans opinion / observation~ Sounds like something I’d like to try, I detail classic cars and something like this may work on ‘ingrained’ type stains. Do you have any details on this product (who makes it, where it’s available, etc)? TIA I’ve been using (with success, thus far) a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). Gently agitate the surface with a boar’s hair cleaning brush. This removes stubborn grime and will not harm the leather. Use a clean, damp Microfiber towel to rinse the leather. + Conditioner (Zymol Treat)and UV protection (303 Aerospace Protectant) ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
  3. Quote: Where Should I Wash My Car During The Winter? ~One mans opinion / observation~ Quick & Easy Wash (QEW) is from Protect All, a company that makes maintenance products for the camping and RV hobbyists. The label states, “Wash anywhere water use is restricted, such as campgrounds, RV parks, garages, apartment and condominiums.... QEW supposedly leaves no film and won't remove wax, it doesn't bead, but ‘sheets’ water as it exhibits very low surface tension. Equipment required: two- 2gal buckets of warm water, 2- lambs wool wash mitts, 1- drying towel and a Microfiber towel. Methodology: ·Mix 2oz of QEW in the wash bucket. ·Saturate the mitt and wash one panel at a time, wiping in the one direction only. ·Dry the panel with a Waffle Weave towel (or whatever you usually use.) Allow the first mitt soak while using the second to do the next panel, and work around the car, alternating mitts. Just dry the panel after wiping. ·If your car is very dirty use a slightly stronger solution of QEW, and ensure the wash mitt is very saturated. ·You may want to spray the panels with a QEW solution and let them soak before using the method outlined above, changing the rinse water very frequently. In summary: QEW is as effective as a regular wash, whenever there is a water shortage, cold weather washing, as it takes less time, or a water hose is not available (condominiums, car shows, etc). However careful you are, washing your car introduces swirls and micro scratches, and the best you can hope for is to minimize them, QEW does that. Hard to believe that you can efficiently wash a vehicle with just one gallon of water and two ounces of QEW in about an hour. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
  4. ~One mans opinion / observation~ “Only in America” you can see better than that each and every day in South of France/ European TV any day of the week. I say only in America because it wouldn’t get you any publicity (and after all that’s the point) at all in Europe, but here it even makes the news / late night shows. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
  5. ~One mans opinion / observation~ For all interested parties, this is an excellent technical website on oil and oil analysis. The site has a huge database of user submitted oil analysis data as well. There are tons of strange little facts I have learned from this site. Such as: Changing your oil to early/often is worse than letting it go to the recommended interval as oils see an increase in viscosity and protective properties after some use. And as we all knew already, the 3000-mile oil change rule is a Jiffy Lube and Oil Company ploy to part us from our money. The data from the oil analysis database backs this up, even with dino oil. Have fun reading; I spent 2 hours when I found it. http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi...;DaysPrune=1000 ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
  6. Quote: those mirrors are from Tom's. ~One mans opinion / observation~ Could you elaborate, who is Tom? Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
  7. ~One mans opinion / observation~ Vehicle Headlights (glass) - Wipe glass with a damp waffle weave towel; apply Stoners Invisible Glass to 100% cotton Microfiber cloth and rub glass surface with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining) Vehicle Headlights (plastic) – Wipe glass with a damp waffle weave towel; apply Plexus1Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish, safe for all types of clear and coloured plastics, Perspex, Lucite, Mylar (window tinting) and clear acrylics. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
  8. Glass Cleaning Exposure to bugs, road oil and tar, and catalytic converter emissions makes automotive glass cleaning a challenge. I discourage the use of ammonia-based glass cleaners on your car; ammonia is harmful to many car surfaces including vinyl, rubber, and leather. As a substitute I prefer (Stoner’s Invisible Glass) or a citric acid, alcohol, or mechanical cleaner. Put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and lightly run your fingertips over the windshield's surface. Chances are, it will have a rough, gritty feel. Glass cleaners will not remove this grit, the method I use: Outside glass – 1.Apply clay (Magic Clay) and lubricant solution (Woolite / Water 5:1) onto the glass surface (Do not apply to plastic as dulling may occur.) 2.Wash off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel 3.For ‘water spots’ use a water/distilled white vinegar solution, 5:1 (adjust ratio as required) to dissolve the alkaline-based mineral water deposits. 4.Apply a quarter size amount of Autoglym Car Glass Polish to a dry 100% cotton or Microfiber cloth 5.Apply to half of the windshield, polishing first in an up and down motion then in a left-to-right motion and then repeat on the other side. 6.Go over the glass several times in each direction. (Glass will polish virtually residue free.) 7.Wipe off any residue, and polish with a clean dry 100% cotton Microfiber cloth. 8.If any ‘water spots’ remain apply Distilled White Vinegar un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on glass surface. 9.If this does not remove the ‘water spots’ use Autoglym Car Glass Polish and #0000 steel wool. 10.Wipe off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel 11.Inspect glass for clarity and smoothness. Repeat if necessary. 12.Apply 303 Wiper Treatment to the wiper blades to clean, restore suppleness, eliminate wiper noise or ‘skipping’ and to avoid glass smearing. . Inside glass – Wipe glass with a damp waffle weave towel; apply Stoners Invisible Glass to 100% cotton Microfiber cloth and rub glass surface with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining) Plastic window – Use same as ‘Inside glass’ above but use Plexus1Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish. Safe for all types of clear and coloured plastics, Perspex, Lucite, Mylar (window tinting) and clear acrylics. Rear window – I use a Glass Master (it has two swivel paddle heads that fit on to a handle and comes with three bonnets, terry, and Microfiber and bug scrubber. This allows access to sloped rear window glass) to apply the Stoners Invisible Glass with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining) ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
  9. ~One mans opinion / observation~ Exposure to bugs, road oil and tar, and catalytic converter emissions makes automotive glass cleaning a challenge. I discourage the use of ammonia-based glass cleaners on your car; ammonia is harmful to many car surfaces including vinyl, rubber, and leather. As a substitute I prefer (Stoner’s Invisible Glass) or a citric acid, alcohol, or mechanical cleaner. Put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and lightly run your fingertips over the windshield's surface. Chances are, it will have a rough, gritty feel. Glass cleaners will not remove this grit, the method I use: Outside glass – 1.Apply clay (Magic Clay) and lubricant solution (Woolite / Water 5:1) onto the glass surface (Do not apply to plastic as dulling may occur.) 2.Wash off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel 3.For ‘water spots’ use a water/distilled white vinegar solution, 5:1 (adjust ratio as required) to dissolve the alkaline-based mineral water deposits. 4.Apply a quarter size amount of Autoglym Car Glass Polish to a dry 100% cotton or Microfiber cloth 5.Apply to half of the windshield, polishing first in an up and down motion then in a left-to-right motion and then repeat on the other side. 6.Go over the glass several times in each direction. (Glass will polish virtually residue free.) 7.Wipe off any residue, and polish with a clean dry 100% cotton Microfiber cloth. 8.If any ‘water spots’ remain apply Distilled White Vinegar un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on glass surface. 9.If this does not remove the ‘water spots’ use Autoglym Car Glass Polish and #0000 steel wool. 10.Wipe off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel 11.Inspect glass for clarity and smoothness. Repeat if necessary. 12.Apply 303 Wiper Treatment to the wiper blades to clean, restore suppleness, eliminate wiper noise or ‘skipping’ and to avoid glass smearing. . Inside glass – Wipe glass with a damp waffle weave towel; apply Stoners Invisible Glass to 100% cotton Microfiber cloth and rub glass surface with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining) Plastic window – Use same as ‘Inside glass’ above but use Plexus1Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish. Safe for all types of clear and coloured plastics, Perspex, Lucite, Mylar (window tinting) and clear acrylics. Rear window – I use a Glass Master (it has two swivel paddle heads that fit on to a handle and comes with three bonnets, terry, and Microfiber and bug scrubber. This allows access to sloped rear window glass) to apply the Stoners Invisible Glass with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining) ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
  10. ~One mans opinion / observation~ Apply cleaning solution (Water /Woolite or Dreft 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). Gently agitate the surface with a boar’s hair cleaning brush. This removes stubborn grime and will not harm the leather. Use a clean, damp Microfiber towel to rinse the leather. In addition to regular cleaning, leather requires replacement of natural oils. (The smell of leather comes from oils evaporating out of the hide.) If these oils are not replaced, the leather will dry out, deteriorate and crack. Once every month or two, use a leather conditioner to restore these natural oils and keep the leather soft and supple. Leather conditioners with rich combinations of natural oils like Autoglym Leather Care Cream, Zymol Treat or Groit’s Leather Care. Leatherique’ Rejuvenator Oil and Pristine Clean, or Griot’s Leather Rejuvenator are especially beneficial on neglected, abused or aged leathers that have developed "character lines". Apply conditioner to a damp applicator pad and wipe all leather surfaces in the vehicle. Allow 15 to 20 minutes for the oils to penetrate and give a final wipe down with a clean towel. Don't be alarmed if there is conditioner on the wipe towel. The leather will only absorb as much conditioner as it needs. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
  11. ~One mans opinion / observation~ As long as the temp is below freezing the salt/chemicals are basically inert (its only by adding water does salt become acidic) and won't react easily with the car components. Once the temp gets up above freezing, then is the time to thoroughly wash to remove the salt and sand etc. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
  12. ~One mans opinion / observation~ Apply a quarter size amount of Autoglym Car Glass Polish to a dry 100% cotton or Microfiber cloth Apply to half of the windshield, polishing first in an up and down motion then in a left-to-right motion and then repeat on the other side. Go over the glass several times in each direction. (Glass will polish virtually residue free.) Wipe off any residue, and polish with a clean dry 100% cotton Microfiber cloth If this does not remove the ‘smearing’ use Autoglym Car Glass Polish and #0000 steel wool. Wipe off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel Inspect glass for clarity and smoothness. Repeat if necessary. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
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