TOGWT

Tree Resin (Sap): (Appears like a dark brown/ red coloured raised surface mark) some of the most common resinous tree sap types are: White Pine, Maple, Oak, Popular, and Blue Spruce, none of which are water soluble, the acidic content of the sap will etch the paint surface, causing a concave surface. A lot depends upon the type of sap, which is actually a resin emitted from the tree, the resin deposits can be removed by- Isopropyl alcohol (IPA), a solvent, or turpentine, which is made from tree resins, in severe cases it can be used to break down the resin in tree sap, use as a last resort only and use sparingly and do not rub hard and give it some time to work. Or use detailer’s clay. Once you remove the sap deposits, the paint or clear may be cracked, which may entail some expensive refinishing. Factors as to the amount of time it takes to remove sap and what damage it has caused are dependent on temperature and time the sap has been on the paint surface. Be careful and take your time removing it, remember always let the products do the work for you. Tree sap that is still soft can be removed by soaking with Isopropyl Alcohol (or Stoner’s Terminator) wet the area with the product and allows it to remain on the surface for 3-5 minutes, then wipe with soft dry towel. For tree sap that has hardened, carefully scrape the top of the spot off with a plastic razor blade to expose the softer sap inside. Apply Zaino’s ZPC Fusion with a foam applicator and then remove residue or soak a towel with the solvent placing it over the sap and let soak for 10-minutes, repeat in order for the solvents to break down the sap, once it’s removed re-apply sealant / wax protection of your choice. If the paint has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection Insect honeydew (sometimes mistaken for tree resin(Sap) is excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches Sticky residue should be removed as soon as possible as it could compromise the clear coat. Remove as per tree sap

The 'kit' recommended would be a good one For the carpeted area; I’m repeatedly asked which product is the best interior cleaner, 85% of the soil in carpet/upholstery is dry and 15% consists of oil/grease, therefore different procedures are necessary to remove the different types of soil. There is no one-product answer, as the so-called all purpose cleaners (APC) do not remove every stain, different stains require different solvents to remove them. Between these four cleaners you should be able to remove 99% of stains occurring in a vehicle and around the home – (a) 303™ Rug / Upholstery Cleaner & Spot Remover (B) P21S Total Auto Wash (a citrus-based all purpose cleaner (APC) © Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam or Hoover Deep Cleansing Carpet/Upholstery Detergent

Bird Excrement: (Or insect excrement like Gypsy moth, June bug, Honeybees, etc) contain highly acidic concentrates (uric acid (pH 3.0-4.5) which if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent clouded area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces) Heat (vehicle paint temperature of 90oF+) creates a very aggressive reactivity of the acids that are present, which causes surface etching, at lower temperatures (40oF or less) there s no reactivity and therefore no etching Heat (vehicle paint temperature of 90oF+) creates a very aggressive reactivity of the acids that are present, which causes surface etching, at lower temperatures (40oF or less) there s no reactivity and therefore no etching so they should be removed without delay. Birds use gravel to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause scratching. Insect honeydew (sometimes mistaken for tree resin) excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches is also acidic. Residue should be removed (see below) as soon as possible as it could compromise the clear coat. Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed and/or neutralized as quickly as possible. Using an IPA (isopropyl alcohol) no ammonia based (ammonia acts as an acid accelerant) glass cleaner or a gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time. The alcohol content, acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it dwell for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry. Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated .If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection. Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface The paint system is porous; when you add water and heat to an acidic substance it will erode the paint system very quickly (the heat opens microscopic fissures in the paint allowing ingress, the water provides a carrier system for the acid, and heat acts as a catalyst each time water is reintroduced the acid will be reactivated). The paint surface should be periodically neutralized / decontaminated (Automotive International A B C Decontamination / Neutralization wash system (http://www.autoint.com )

Product Directional Application: •Polish- these products contain abrasives and should be applied in straight-line motions (Forget what Mr. Miyagi was teaching the Karate Kid) circular motions will cause circular directional marks (swirl marks) When an abrasive is applied by hand the pressure applied is uneven and the reflected light highlights the peaks and valleys differently. •Sealant, Glaze or Wax- these products are all non-abrasive so direction of application won’t cause directional marks to the surface. •Machine application-although a machine applies product in circular motions the pressure applied is very even (unlike a hand application) so the light is reflected evenly. •Optimising light refraction - apply product in ‘direction of airflow’, paint horizontal surfaces hood to trunk, vertical surfaces front to back. This application technique affects the paints optical properties by optimising the surface light refraction as paint is applied in a side-to-side motion not circular, it also highlights the reflectivity of the bodylines and contours of the vehicle

There are many threads on foam pads/products/speed used, this will provide some info - Polish / Cutting Pad (*Yellow)-a harder more dense foam composition (50 PPI ) with an abrasive cutting action, for use with a medium abrasive polish, Machine Polish 1 or 2, Swirl Mark Remover, or Autoglym Paint Renovator Polish (Speed number 4-5) Polish / Light Cutting Pad (*Orange)-a mid range, high density foam composition (60 PPI) with a medium abrasive cutting action, for use with a Swirl Mark Remover, Pre-Wax Paint Cleaner, Klasse All-In-One, or Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Speed number 4) Polish / Waxing Pad (*White)-a softer less dense foam composition(70 PPI) with a light abrasive cutting action, for use with a Swirl Mark Remover, Pre-Wax Paint Cleaner, Klasse All-In-One, or Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Speed number 4) Finishing Pad (*Black)-an ultra-smooth foam that has no abrasive cutting ability (80 PPI) for use with Klasse High Sealant Gloss, Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection, Zanio Z-2 or Z-5 or a Glaze (Speed number 3) Levelling Pad (Wool): Are made from 100% natural lambs wool (do not use synthetic wool) are usually used to level a paint film surface with an abrasive machine polish (compound) or to apply a polish to large areas Wool pads used wet or dry produce the most paint surface `compounding haze' (40 PPI) Four- Ply 100% Twisted Wool Each strand of high grade wool fibre is tightly twisted, allowing our pad to stay at a consistent level of aggression for longer periods of operation. Choose from 1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2" and 2" pile lengths. Choose shorter pile for your most aggressive compounding and longer pile for aggressive compounding with greater durability. Electrified White Sheepskin The electrification process removes the microscopic barbs from the hairs in the wool resulting in a soft and effective compounding material that does not scratch the painted surface. Choose from 3", 4", and 5" diameters with a 1/2" or 3/4" pile height. Lake Counties (LC) patented process encapsulates the base of the lamb’s wool fibres with microscopic polyurethane foam particles. Cuts like natural sheepskin but finishes like a foam pad. Aggressively removes 1500 - 2000 grit scratches, leaving a lustrous finish with no hazing by reducing compounding swirls. Foamed fibres resist matting and compression. Foaming process also creates minute air pockets at the base of the fibres, which improves cushioning and retention of compounds and polishes. Information Resource- http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/woolcutpads_feat.html

OEM water based paint is cured at high temperatures; sometimes as high as 300oF in multiple oven zones where the paint is baked with radiation and convection heat so that all the out gassing necessary has taken place and the vehicle’s paint can be waxed the moment it is rolled out of the manufacturing plant. New cars go through the painting and baking process without any of the rubber, plastic, and cloth components installed. This is why they can expose the cars paint to such high temperatures these high temperatures and special paints used at the factory level ensure the paint is fully cured by the time the car leaves the assembly line. PPG and Fallon Infrared developed a compact drying oven that uses infrared heating and convection to remove water and solvents from paint, while keeping the surface temperature below 150º F. It reduces the dehydration cycle from 11 minutes to 90 seconds or less. Paint finishing is a two stage process; (a) outgas- allowing the solvents to evaporate (B) cure- allowing the paint surface to harden, both of which are time related but the cure cycle can be done underneath a protective layer of polymer sealant, were as the outgas needs a product that will ‘ventilate’ while it protects the paint surface

I always purchase 'low jack' with new vehicles Paint / Leather 'protection plans' IMO are a scam by the stealership to increase revenue (Let the buyer be aware) nothing wrong with making money honestly but.......

desiccants are usually used for moisture absorbing

Tobacco smoke- is one of the most difficult smells to remove from a car, as the smoke permeates almost every interior finish. Start by cleaning the carpets and upholstery with an extractor and 303 Carpet & Spot Remover TM. Clean leather, vinyl and all interior glass surfaces with approved cleaners, once the carpet has dried for 24 hours, sprinkle with baking soda, rub it in to ensure that it penetrates the fibres and leave it for about a week, then vacuum the carpet to remove. The baking soda should absorb the remaining odour in the carpet. As with all smell and odour removal change check the cabin air filter, change as necessary Don't forget the headliner, as this is the source of most of the tobacco smell. Valuguards Odor Terminator is not a perfume or cover up scent; it’s an unscented formula that chemically alters the proteins that odour causing microbes feed on. It's non-toxic, non-allergenic, fast acting without offensive perfume smell and will not damage interior materials or components. For the removal of smoke, pet odours, petrol (gasoline) and virtually any organically caused odours (inc mould) in carpet, seats, headliners, upholstery and heating and air conditioning ducts, spray a fine mist over the entire vehicle interior beginning with the headliner and finishing on the carpeting. Odor Terminator is a contact product and must be sprayed on the source of the odour. Be sure to spray under the seats. A/C system ducts- spray into all vents, turn on the fan blower and spray into all intakes. Extractor Units: add 4 ounces Odor terminator to each gallon of extractor solution. Clean interior glass after use to prevent spotting. (http://www.autoint.com )

The best way to describe the proper method for using detailer clay is to use plenty of the lubricant and aquaplane the clay bar over the surface in straight-line motions. Inspect the clay surface often and fold (knead) clay to present a clean surface to the paint to avoid scratching; when the clay surface becomes really soiled (it becomes more difficult to find a clean surface by kneading, discard and use fresh clay. Methodology •Divide the detailer's clay into equal pieces and knead into a ball to ensure pliability •Take one of the pieces and flatten it out into a circle, approximately enough that it will fit into two or three fingers •Spray a 2-foot by 2-foot surface with a lubricating solution (WooliteTM or Dreft™ / Water 5:1), ensure that the surface being clayed is always wet (important enough to restate- ensure that the surface being clayed is always wet) •Inspect the clay’s surface often, knead /fold to provide a clean surface as necessary •Glide the clay across the area in a front to back straight-line aquaplaning type motion, Use long strokes without lifting the clay from the surface •Use a light to medium even pressure until the surface becomes smooth and silent. •If the Clay is streaking on the paint, you need to apply more lubricating solution, it is better to over lubricate the paint film surface than let it dry-out •To avoid wasting detailer's clay because you probably will drop it, place a towel on the ground under the area you're claying so the clay will fall onto the towel without picking up gravel etc. •If you drop the clay on the ground do not try to clean it, discard it or it may cause micro scratches in your paint film surface. •Rinse of any clay residue and ensure there is no more contamination to remove •Move onto the next two-foot by two foot square area and repeat the process. •Once half the section is completed turn the clay over to a fresh, clean side and completes the remaining section. •Check the surface of the clay often, once it becomes contaminated fold to a clean surface. •Wash, rinse and dry each section and ensure all imbedded surface contaminants have been removed before moving on to the next panel / section •I would go over the paint surfaces again with the clay to ensure nothing was missed •Apply a chemical paint cleaner (Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner Swirl Remover) to clean out the paints micro pores •When complete wash, rinse and dry the vehicle. [each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher]

So you think 4 3/4 or 5" backing plate is best? and what about the counter weight does the pc come with one or do you add this? What size to add the 5" or 6"? If I go with the 5" backing plate and the 6 1/2 pad this should work right? I guess I read to much but so many detailers have there opinions and I only want to buy this stuff once and get it right. I dont know why pc just doesnt give you the right backing plate and such ,would be so much easier. :chairshot: There are two different counter-weights, which are clearly marked to indicate use with either the 5-inch, or 6-inch backing pad. Therefore with a 6-inch backing pad for polishing you should use the 6-inch, 0.140 oz. counterweight (PN 699933) (I also feel this counter weight cuts down on vibration whatever size pad is utilized) The vibrations that are generated at higher speeds when using a 5-inch weight and a 6-inch pad are unacceptable for most people

Foam pads (Lake County Mfg) are available in various sizes from 3.5 – 8.0-inch diameter, but I have found that for the application of a polish the optimum size of foam pad for whole panel (i.e. hood, trunk, fender, etc.) is 6 to 6.5- inches, with an effective pad contact diameter of 5.5 to 6.25- inches. For the ‘spot-repair’ of blemishes on a specific blemish or paint defect, I prefer working with a 4- inch pad. This pad size allows me to focus on just the problem area and not affect the surrounding paint. ~Hope this helps~ [each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher]

SIZE DOES MATTER- Just ask any female detailer ;-) Always use a smaller sized Velcro backing plate then the Velcro foam pad you are using (i.e. a 6-inch Velcro backing plate and a 6.5-inch Velcro foam pad) Never use a Velcro backing plate that is larger then the Velcro backed foam pad as the backing plate will damage / scratch the paintwork.

Specification: Cyclo Rotary Polisher Model; Cyclo #5 Power: 5Amp, 110-120 Volts AC, 50-60 Hz Motor: 1/3rd HP, Single phase Non-Load speed: 1,800 RPM per head, (3,600 RPM combined) Weight: 6.5 lbs. (2.9 Kg) Specification: Porter-Cable™ Random Orbital Buffer, Model number 7336SP or 7424 Electronic variable speed: 2,500 – 6,000 oscillations per minute (OPM) Spiral bevel gears, 100% ball and roller bearing construction Power: 110-120 Volts AC, 50-60 Hz Motor: 3.7 amps, single phase, 410 Watts Non-Load speed: 2,500-6,000 OPM Spindle Thread: 5/16" – 24 5/32" Eccentric offset (orbit radius) Gear Drive: Spiral bevel Size: 111/2" long, 4'Width, 4.5"Height Weight 6 lbs

Polishing Glass: Once the glass surface has been washed and cleaned (detailers clay) any minor imperfections can be removed with an abrasive glass polish (Autoglym Car Class Polish or DP High Performance Glass Restorer) This thick citrus-based cream safely pulls contaminants out of the glass, including alkaline mineral deposits, and then smoothes out etched glass (http://www.autogeek.org) Be aware the some imperfections cannot be removed and you may have to replace it. If you can catch your fingernail in the scratch 0.4 Mil (0 .004 –inch deep) you should consult a professional glass repair / replacement company. A replacement windscreen can sometimes be claimed on an insurance policy without loss of no-claim bonus, dependant upon coverage (check first with insurance company). Some windscreen ‘glass’ is actually a plastic resin and will scratch easily, consult your dealer to find out what material was used for the OEM windshield. Heat caused by abrasive polishing can soften and damage glass; foam pad and product used must minimize heat build-up. Since glass is a poor heat conductor any friction heat built up from polishing must be kept to a minimum by using sufficient product and regular misting of both the polishing pad and glass surface with water. Methodology: •Clean glass to remove dirt, dust or road grime from surfaces (also see note 1) •Apply clay (Magic Clay®) and lubricant solution (WooliteTM / Water 5:1) onto the glass surface (Do not apply to plastic as dulling may occur.) •Apply a quarter (coin) size amount of Autoglym Car Glass Polish™ or Iz Einzette Glas Polish to a damp cutting / polishing foam pad (LC Orange or White) attached to a Porter Cable HS rotary polisher set at speed 1200 rpm. •Apply to half of the windshield, polishing first in an up and down motion then in a left-to-right motion and then repeat on the other side, proceed to other glass surfaces. •Go over the glass several times in each direction, glass will polish virtually residue free. •Wipe off any residue, and polish with a clean dry 100% cotton Micro fibre cloth. •Inspect glass for clarity and smoothness. Repeat if necessary. •If the glass has PPG Industries Optech clear coating a more aggressive polish may be required Alternative products / methods: Apply Zaino Z-12 with a damp cotton cloth to cool glass, apply to small sections at a time and allow to completely dry, buffing with a clean dry cotton towel. If there is any smearing or residue left just use Stoner’s Invisible Glass or any good quality glass cleaner to remove excess residue. Note: Do not use an abrasive polish on ‘Targa ‘glass’ tops as they are actually Lexan and an abrasive will remove the tint

I greatly admire your dedication to detailing and will think of you whenever I have the audacity to complain about a backache when I detail my cars. I don’t know if this is a possibility as it requires a pneumatic air supply, but Groits Garage usually stocks a Porter-Cable Palm Switch random orbital polisher if circumstances permit it would be an ideal solution for one-handed operation Jon

Very difficult to glean any information from the photo supplied. My guess is that they are 'wear' marks (the light tan dye has worn away and your left with the darker leather skin underneath) so when you apply a coditioner it appears darker thanthe tan leather. Leatherique has a range of leather dye that I can recomend.

Newly re- painted vehicle- 1. Oil-based paint, lacquer or enamel and low solids paint systems are formulated with solvents (30-80% dependant upon manufacturer) once applied paint needs to dry and the solvents need to (out-gas) evaporate for sixty to ninety days (60-90) to enable the paint off gassing and aerobic curing, if the paint is covered with a conventional wax or sealant it will arrest the outgas/cure process. 2. Water-based high solid/low solvent urethane paints used by PPG Industries, DuPont Chemicals, and BASF Aktiengesellschaft and most other paint manufacturers are not as chemically resistant as the older paint systems as they are porous, but do not require time for the outgas/ aerobic cure process, as they are either catalyzed (i.e. a chemical process that cures paint) or oven-dried, but I would suggest waiting for approximately ten to fifteen days before any product application, which should be more than sufficient time to enable paint off gassing and aerobic curing. Professional painters add chemicals; accelerants and compounds to their paint mix prior to painting to improve flexibility, reduce paint imperfections, increase hardness, improve gloss and reduce curing times. 3. Applied after polishing, a glaze is the make-up that hides flaws and gives paint the sheen it had in the showroom. The common ingredients in a’ fresh paint safe’ glaze are: water, glycerine (to produce a high shine) amino-functional mineral oils, solvent, and mild abrasive Kaolin (China clay) to burnish the surface and produce a gloss, they exclude silicone and wax, some polymers are also formulated as ‘fresh paint safe’ 4. The application of a specific ‘fresh paint safe (or polymer)’ type product, i.e. 3M™ Perfect-It III™ Show Car Finishing Glaze, Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze, Meguiar’s #5 New Car Glaze, or Zanio Z Polishes (exclude the use of either Z1 or ZFX™) allow an ‘initial outgas period of 7 days before application. These products are completely safe for any fresh paint system as they allow the solvents in an oil-based paint outgas / aerobic cure process and provide some protection for any type of paint surface. After thirty days (30) the paint surface can be protected with a regular polymer sealant and/or Carnauba wax. (See also Notes below) 5. Abrasive polish should be avoided until the paint has cured (an abrasive polish will not necessarily harm the soft new paint but unless it’s absolutely necessary I would avoid it) Vehicle washing is encouraged but avoid car wash concentrates that contain any harsh detergents, alkali, acids or wax (recommended products- Zaino Z-7™ Show Car Wash, Groit’s Car Wash) also avoid car washes that uses a high-pressure spray or wax or harsh detergents. Notes: 1. A paint film surface is a delicate thin coating easily dulled and very easily scratched, so choose carefully the advice you listen to and most importantly what advice you act upon. 2. The body-shop / paint manufactures know their products; seek their advice so as not to void any warranty. Paint manufacturer have specific technical guidelines on how to use their products to affect a warranted spot/panel/ repairs or a full repaint. This preserves both the paint manufactures and factory warranty. {each one / teach one][then student /becomes teacher} JonM

A US power tool company, Porter-Cable established in 1914, began manufacturing an electrically operated Variable-Speed Random-Orbit Polisher for the wood working industry in the 1990s. It is now one of the most popular tools used by professional and enthusiast automotive detailers. Often known by the companies initials PC (Porter-Cable) but also called a ROB (random orbital buffer) or DA (duel action) polisher There are two model numbers 7336SP and 7424 both machines are identical, but they come equipped slightly differently. The 7336SP, sander polisher comes with a 6-inch counterweight; Porter-Cable outfits the 7424 Polisher with a 5-inch counterweight and a 6-inch foam-polishing pad, PN 54745. Alternative products- a) A European (Germany) equivalent to the PC 7424/7336 is the Flex X1107VE. http://www.baukreis.de/produkte/inde...p=FX&s=&pg=199 B) Bosch Gex 150 Turbo 150mm Round Orbit Sander 240v – http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=124394 To polish the paint film surface with a random orbital polisher requires a backing plate, a Velcro-backed foam pad, and a machine polish. The variables are; orbital speed, pressure applied, foam pad composition, whether foam is used wet or dry, and the abrasiveness (cutting ability) of the applied machine polish, and no single machine polish can do it all; it usually takes at least two or more to obtain the results required. The only constant is; Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary, `step-up' to a more abrasive products. The random orbital buffer gets is name from the action of the buffer (or polishing head) This operates by the shaft rotating and spinning the back plate on an orbit radius or an eccentric offset (or throw) of 5/32-inch as opposed to a revolution on a direct-drive system {each one / teach one][then student /becomes teacher} JonM

Cleaning- use a soft horse hair brush (Groit's Leather & Interior Brush) and/or a vacuum to remove any dust, apply a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a clean, damp Microfiber towel to rinse. Maintenance cleaning- use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 10:1 ratio) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time Stubborn stains- dependent upon the leathers condition or how dirty it is consider using a leather-cleaning product. (Leatherique's Prestine Clean, Zaino Leather in a bottle, Groit's Leather Cleaner or Autoglym Leather Cleaner) Do not use steam to clean leather it will dry out both the leather hide (causing it to crack) and the stitching , which will cause them to become weak, fry and eventually break. JonM

So its not an absolut waste of space, this is what might happen when using these places to wash vehicles- ‘Touch less’ carwash: Never use a car wash, period touch less or not, there are a variety of reasons: You should never, under any circumstances use a car wash that requires you to let another person drive your vehicle onto the ramps or into the wash, notice the disclaimer of ‘No responsibility for damage to customer’s vehicle. Local by-laws require car washes to re-claim or recycle water. This means they have two choices. a) They can collect the water in tanks and pay to truck it away to a recycling centre. B) They can filter and then recycle the water (dependant on how often the filters are cleaned/changed) will effect how much dirt content there is. Recycled meaning re-use the same water, which may include any road dirt/grit that is not filtered out is used to high-pressure (1,000PSI) wash your vehicle (somewhat similar to sandblasting) the final rinse is usually twice-filtered re-cycled water, this is to give the appearance of a clean surface on the vehicle. •To remove snow/sand/road dirt and grit without agitation (brushes etc) requires the use of very strong chemical cleaners. •Probably the most important is that this type of automatic car wash use high-pressure water and strong alkaline detergent to clean vehicles that will strip the wax/polish •You will also need to renew the vehicles sealant / wax to ensure the paint surface protection on a regular basis to counteract the effects of the harsh detergents. •Also be aware of those that use ‘wheel guides’ as they will cause scratches / etching to the wheel surfaces, as many wash facilities will not accommodate either the tire width or the clearance, thus causing sidewall damage •Vehicle with lower than ‘standard’ suspension (Corvette C6 and other sports cars) should also be aware the wheel guides could cause body damage •As an alternative in colder winter months I would suggest using a waterless vehicle cleaning product Protect All’s Quick Easy Wash (QEW) •If you get a chance, attend a car wash / wax vendors symposiums where they give demonstrations of the different soap products that these type of facilities use. You'll come away a convert to never using them again, on any vehicle. JonM

Writing a thread on washing a car in an automated car wash and then moving it to the detailing section, now I've seen / read everything.

A stealership cash cow and not woth the $800, if you want a protection plan like that (but one that has a meanigful gaurantee - While it will not provide ‘lifetime’ protection go to a Chrysler or Dodge dealer and get them to apply the Daimler-Chrysler Master Shield sealant, this product provides both real protection and a real warranty for any make of vehicle. Maintenance-Free Paint: Water-based paints are used on modern cars are softer and more porous than the older oil-based paints; they are protected by a urethane or polyurethane paint clear coat. These clear coat systems are primarily formulated from oils that are subject to oxidation and attack by environmental pollutants and the suns heat that dry out the oils in the paint leaving a porous surface that is susceptible to attack from acid rain, hydrocarbons, ozone, industrial contaminants, and many other forms of foreign particles. It requires protection from the environment by the application of a sacrificial barrier. Most polymer sealants will last approximately 4-6 months, dependant upon driving and environmental conditions. The paint film surface also requires that road dirt and tar, dust and grime be removed by washing the vehicle on a regular basis. A maintenance free paint, nothing could be further from reality JonM

Leather Cleaning- use a soft horse hair brush (Groit's Leather & Interior Brush) and/or a vacuum to remove any dust, apply a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a clean, damp Microfiber towel to rinse. Maintenance cleaning- use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 10:1 ratio) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time Stubborn stains- dependent upon the leathers condition or how dirty it is consider using a leather-cleaning product. (Leatherique's Prestine Clean, Zaino Leather in a bottle, Groit's Leather Cleaner or Autoglym Leather Cleaner) Notes: •With all cleaning products, always test a small, indiscrete area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. •The harsh use of chemicals actually keeps dirt trapped in the fibres of the leather. If you abuse or neglect your leather, it won't survive. Keeping leather clean is important, but conditioning is the key to preserving its useful life, flexibility, appearance and longevity. •Do not use- Saddle soap (it's made to clean an entirely different type of leather), abrasive cleaners, furniture leather polish (they contain a wax), products that contain harsh solvent s or alcohol, as they will cause the stitching to fray and eventually break, petroleum distillate, bleach or ammonia based products, you should not use vinyl products on leather (nor vice versa as the emulsion will not penetrate). •Do not use- Silicone or Lanolin-based conditioning products as they have trouble reaching the leathers deep fibres, also avoid using leather-conditioning creams on covered leathers as they cannot penetrate the surface finish and the residue will remain leaving a greasy surface on the leather. The silicone oil will dissolve out the leather's natural oils and tend to make the leather sticky. Use a product that contains natural penetrating oils that will nourish the fibres and restore the leather to its natural suppleness. •Do not use- vinyl dressing on leather as it will clog the pores of the leather and not allow any essential oils to permeate to the fibre, which will cause the leather to dry out and crack JonM

Application Sequence: 1.Car wash concentrate- 2.Detailer’s clay- Machine polish abrasion choice is dependant upon condition of paint surface 3.Machine polish 1- 4.Machine polish 2- 5.Machine polish 3- 6.Glaze- 7.Last step product (LSP)- Carnauba wax A polish contains abrasives A glaze has very, very slight abrasives (mainly to ‘clean’ the surface) A wax is purely for protection (unless it’s a clear wax) Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (Poly-Lack) is a companion product to AIO that builds finish depth and clarity. It contains no cleaners, wax or polishes and can be layered. JonM