TOGWT

Quote: Hello my Autopia friend! You're probably wondering what the heck is going on. Well, our political Islamic visitors decided to have more fun again last night by hacking in some free advertising. I have taken the forum off-line until I can figure out how our hacker/cracker friends are coming in. This may take a few days. Please be patient. I will keep news posted on this page. Yours for a better, safer Autopia, David Bynon

~ One man’s opinion / observations ~ That is a great tip. Here’s a variation- use a Saran wrap elastic top plastic cover ~ Hope this helps ~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

Quote: There you go, I responded and didn't shed a tear. lkirchner ~ One man’s opinion / observations ~ Brave man (me I be sobbing like a child) Thank you for posting that info. I sorry to hear about your expensive lesson with Lexol, but I hope you won’t mind if I quote you on other forums to help reiterate what I’ve been saying for many years about the detrimental alcohol content of Lexol and other leather care products Perhaps your lesson will help save others your painful experience For real leather care products, toll free number 1 877 395-3366, and website www.leatherique.com PS: The 300 MB Gullwing, wow. Only had the pleasure to detail one (thus far) ~ Hope this helps ~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ B) Oil stains-food, suntan oil, lipstick, your hair or skin; small oil stains can be treated and successfully removed with cornstarch (or talcum powder) rubbed briskly into the stain with your fingers until the heat from the friction is felt. That heat loosens the oil and allows the cornstarch to absorb the oil before the leather can, if the stain has 'set' try using 303T" Cleaner & Spot Remover. Test in an inconspicuous area to ensure that the leather won't change colour. ~Hope this helps ~ * justadumbarchitect so I question everything * Experience unshared is knowledge wasted…/ Jon

Zymol is established long-term suppliers of car care products (similar if not the same as Swissol) their market niche is concourse entrants and as such most of their wax products are glaze’s i.e. they contain fillers ~Hope this helps~

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ Let me pre-qualify this post by saying that this is for info only I have no experience of this product or its application… http://www.autoskin.com. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ From what little I know about these types of repairs they fill in the crack/hole with a resin. It doesn’t seem to be very clear when its cured and you will notice it. I’ve talked with a couple of clients that have had windscreen replaced (various marquee vehicles) and they did not experience wind noise or leaks. If you do have the windscreen repaired please share your experience, thanks As too how much, the two clients I asked about cost had the repair done and then had the windscreen replaced, as they were not happy with the aesthetics so I didn’t think it wise to ask about the cost. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ Most super markets stock Woolite, Dreft, etc on the soap/detergent aisle (it’s a pH balanced liquid soap type product used to wash (among other things, obviously LOL) baby clothes Use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite or Dreft 6:1 ratio or stronger ) ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ I’m not trying to take away from Silvermate’s advice but a wool-buffing pad in the hands of an inexperienced user might cause you grief. Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary ‘step-up’ to a more abrasive product. Try a solvent type cleaner (Klasse AIO or P21S Paint Cleaner0 or water/distilled white vinegar or a 5:1 Isopropyl Alcohol solution before you ‘step-up’ to something more abrasive. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ On the way down here (Florida) I had a stone hit the windshield in Tennessee. When it came time to getting the car re-registered they told me I must have a Florida based company underwrite motor insurance. I then had to take the car to an insurance office for inspection where I was told I could have the windshield replaced without it affecting the no-claim or it having any effect on future premiums (I had also noticed that a lot of TN windshields have cracks in them). I’m not so sure I would trust the ‘quick-fix but cheap’ repairs, as glass and the compound would react differently to heat/cold and might cause a fracture. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ Fill Cracks and Scratches (Leatherique Crack Filler) For large cracks, apply flexible filler inside the crack, level with a spatula. Using damp 100% cotton towel remove filler on the surface outside the crack before it dries. Allow to air dry for thirty minutes and then wet-sand with 400 grit and a rubber sanding block. Repeat until the fill is perfectly level and smooth. Even light scratches and roughened areas will take more than one application. Allow the filler to dry overnight before sitting on a seat that has been filled. Allow to air dry for forty-eight hours before dyeing. Does everything they say it will ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ A ‘Glaze’ contains oil/fillers that will cover paint scratches (until its washed once or maybe twice) If the surface is rubber or vinyl you would have to level the surface with an abrasive or a grit paper and block to ‘hide’ the blemish (be careful how far you go with ‘levelling’) ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *

Quote: Escaine cleaner. ~One man’s opinion / observations ~ Unfinished leather: Some cars have untreated leather; soft, full grain leather made from an un-split sheepskin, lambskin, or kidskin, usually tanned with alum and chromium salts and dyed throughout. The easiest way to tell is to sprinkle a few drops of water onto the leather, if the water is absorbed into the leather and looks like a stain, it’s untreated if the water is not absorbed then it’s treated. Clean the surface with 303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover it removes even stubborn stains, including oil, grease, ink, berry juice, wine and blood. It contains no soaps, detergents, phosphates, nitrates, caustics, toxic organics, enzymes or volatile organic chemicals (VOC) Using a soft upholstery brush to raise the ‘nap’ of the skin then apply cleaner by spraying onto a 100% cotton towel (do not saturate) Allow to air dry. The surface of these leathers has no protective barrier to protect them. As a result these leathers are very prone to soiling and staining. To protect unfinished leathers including suede, deerskin and unfinished dyed leathers, use 303 High Tech Fabric Guard. Use on new or newly cleaned leather, spray on (but do not saturate) and let dry, it creates and maintains water repellence, resists soiling and helps protect against both water and oil based stains. Identifying characteristics- very soft to the touch, will scratch or scuff very easily; water drops will darken the leather but it returns to its original colour after drying. With all cleaning products, always test a small, indiscrete area first to ensure it won’t discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ Paint Saving (Clear Plastic Shield): A clear, protective shield is excellent at protecting painted areas more prone to chips and scratches (door sills, front of the hood, etc). Simply cut the desired size, apply positioning spray to the surface, move the cut shield into place, then squeegee out the Positioning Spray. An instant clear shield that protects your paint, use it on front ends, along door edges, around tire wells, inside doorjambs, along doorsills, painted bumpers or jambs, peel it off at any time and the paint will still look brand new, available in three widths, 4”, 2’, 3/8” x 12 mils thick. (Groit’s PN 77890) Note- do not use on plastic bumpers or repainted surfaces. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ Ink stains: Some ballpoint ink stains can be sponged clean using 303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover. If this doesn't completely remove the stain, the other alternative is to use Isopropyl alcohol (or hairspray) With all cleaning products, always test a small, indiscrete area first to ensure it won’t discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ Due to it’s acidity bug or bird excrement has usually removed the paint prtection (wax/sealant) were it alights on the paint film surface. Bug Residue: Dried bug remains are acidic and can etch paint or glass surfaces, and should be removed as soon as possible. To remove the residue caused by various bugs pre-soak heavy bug contamination with an insect pre-cleaner or Isopropyl Alcohol. To prevent any possibility of scratching from bug remains, use plenty of soapy water for lubrication when using a mesh insect sponge (Autopia Soft Scrub Insect Sponge). Apply paint protection once residue has been removed. Can also be used on glass, plastic, clear coat paint, vinyl, chrome and fibreglass ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect * so I question everything *

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ Great job, :P :P not to detract anything from it... Fender wells and Under Carriage: Rinse wheel wells thoroughly with water, apply a citrus-based de-greaser and let it soak in. Agitate with a long handled boars hairbrush before rinsing. Dry surfaces with a terry cloth towel before applying a water-based rubber/vinyl dressing; wipe off any excess and buff surfaces. This simple detailing step will provide a ‘frame’ for your wheels and tyres and provide a completely finished look to the vehicle. Apply a black satin, semi-gloss spray paint (Groit’s Satin Black Paint PN 20243) apply two or three light coats, allowing 20-25 minutes between each coat to dry Will make the vehicle look ‘completely’ detailed ;) ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ Is this too obvious? Car Cover: Protect your investment with a car cover, outdoors, car covers offer unequalled protection against ultra-violet radiation (UVR) they are water resistant and provide protection from acid rain, pollution, bird excrement, tree sap and wind blown debris. Used for long-term vehicle storage, either in the garage or outdoors, car covers protect against accidental scratches and dings from passers-by, car doors, lawn mowers, sporting equipment, bikes and pets. For relative ease of handling choose a cover with a fabric weight of between 4-7 oz /sq. yd Intense Sun: Sunbrella™- durable long-lasting fabric that protects interior and exterior finish. Provides almost complete UVR protection for extended outdoor use, fade and water resistant, sun and heat protection for high sun, little rain, desert type areas (AZ, TX, NV, etc) ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ The G2 Calliper paint is a great system, you won’t be disappointed- Callipers: A way to spice up the look and at the same time protect the callipers from corrosion. The Calliper Paint System (G2 Manufacturing Inc. Colorado Springs) it features aircraft quality paint, available in six different high gloss colours, Red, Yellow, Blue, Silver, Black, & Purple. The paint is heat resistant up to 925oF; this paint won't start running into your brake pads, it also seals and protects against corrosion. Brake dust and dirt will not adhere to the calliper surface since adding the paint. The kit includes everything you'll need to get the job done, besides paint you'll also get reactor (special bonding agent), high tech calliper cleaner, mixing sticks, and a brush. Do not attempt to paint the rotor contact surface ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ Drying Vehicle: ·Use a low-pressure, high volume water flow with the Ultimate Nozzle™ (or if you prefer remove the nozzle) you will see the water ‘sheet’ off, move the hose down to "feed" the sheet as it flows down the panel, this will keep the ‘sheet’ wide and it will carry away more water. ·The remaining water can be removed using a 20” x 40” Waffle Weave towel, using a blotting motion, do not rub This gets rid of all the remaining drops and leaves only a little moisture, which can be removed with the towel. ·Use the blow side of a vacuum cleaner to remove water from crevices, wing mirrors, license plates, etc ·Use a water blade to remove water from glass surfaces ·Dry doorjambs, sill area, seams and crevices of hood and trunk with a 16” x 24” Waffle Weave towel ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*

Part II ~One man’s opinion / observations ~ RapGard (Plastic Transit Film): Many manufacturers are using this white plastic covering in place of synthetic or wax based shipping coatings (Cosmoline) The plastic becomes brittle with age (90 to 180 days) and becomes difficult to remove as it "shreds" while being pulled off, additionally there is excess adhesive residue left on the surface. Spray or wipe Isopropyl Alcohol on to the Rap Guard or Plastic Film and the painted surfaces. Allow it to remain on the surface for 3 to 5 minutes. Saturate a soft clean towel with Isopropyl Alcohol and gently wipe away the RapGard / Plastic Film pieces and adhesive. Wash vehicle with a car wash concentrate diluted 1 oz. per gallon of water. Cosmoline: Is a protecterant used on new cars during shipment. It is applied to the paint film surface, engine and wheels to provide a barrier against exposure to the elements. Using a petroleum-based solvent to remove it can do irreversible harm to the vehicle finish. By using a non-caustic, acid-free, citrus based, biodegradable citrus cleaner will avoid any damage and safely remove the Cosmoline, or any oils or grease that may have been applied for protection. Polish or Waxing New Vehicle: New cars with OEM water based paint are cured at high temperatures, sometimes as high as 300 degrees in special baking ovens and can be waxed the moment it is rolled out of the manufacturing plant. New cars go through the painting and baking process without any of the rubber, plastic, and cloth components installed. This is why they can expose the cars paint to such high temperatures. These high temperatures and special paints used at the factory level ensure the paint is fully cured by the time the car leaves the assembly line. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ Polish or Waxing New Vehicle: New cars with OEM water based paint are cured at high temperatures, sometimes as high as 300 degrees in special baking ovens and can be waxed the moment it is rolled out of the manufacturing plant. New cars go through the painting and baking process without any of the rubber, plastic, and cloth components installed. This is why they can expose the cars paint to such high temperatures. These high temperatures and special paints used at the factory level ensure the paint is fully cured by the time the car leaves the assembly line. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/ Jon justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ “….chemicals that are used to compress the air. I have no idea what the chemical is but it might not be good on some finishes.” They use refrigerant as propulsion, its harmless. A tool I really like to use as well as the ‘canned air’ is this Two-Way Mini Detail Brush is so handy, soft, all natural bristles are set in one side of the lacquered handle and black nylon bristles fill the opposite end. Proper Auto Care BR-296 Another use for the air, blow out any water behind the door mirrors so water won’t ‘drip’ on the paint surface ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/Jon justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ Good advice from SWO3ES (as always) I would only take issue with one point “Wash the car with dawn dishwashing liquid…” Washing-up liquids should not be used on vehicles bodywork as their concentrated detergent and usually high sodium / high alkaline detergent soaps content will remove polish / wax and dry out the protective oils from the paint film, rubber and vinyl surfaces, and cause the clear coat to fail (can you tell its a pet peeve of mine) MKENIK-."Diamond Gloss." It is applied by a Ziebart store There is no polymer, synthetic or natural wax, or after-market product available that can provide lifetime protection to a paint film surface. The primary protection provided for a modern water-based colour coat is a polythene resin that has a thickness of 2-3 Mils (0.002-0.003”) this is protected by a sacrificial barrier of wax or synthetic polymer sealant. This barrier is all that stands between the environmental contaminants (UV radiation, acid rain, ozone, industrial pollution, rain, road dirt and tar, etc) and the paint film surface. This renewable barrier is less than 0.000001” thick. While its true that a polymer resins melting point is 375oF, it is still subject to evaporation and erosion by the elements and vehicle washing. However its durability is approximately five or six months. The technology for a lifetime protection for a vehicles paint film surface does not currently exist. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/Jon justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*

~One man’s opinion / observations ~ If you want to try a DIY approach- Repairing Scratched Wheels: This procedure is for slight damage only; a specialist wheel repair shop should repair serious damage. Remove the damaged wheel from vehicle. Clean the damaged area with Prepsol and then sand the scratched or damaged area with Norton 3X Sandpaper (p-graded aluminum oxide grain,) 60, 80 or 100 grit sand paper, sand wet or dry with a wooden sanding block. Sand the wheels until you’ve removed the scratches or ‘kerbing’ marks. Continue the sanding process using finer and finer grades of paper, 220 or 320 grit and finally with 500-grit paper. For small hard to reach places use a Dremel tool and a suitable sanding bit. ~Hope this helps~ Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/Jon justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*