TOGWT

It's really an easy 45-60 minute task every 2-3 months, the benefits are to increase the resale value of the vehicle and also highlight any leaks that can be rectified prior to becoming a major service repair.A correctly detailed vehicle looks impeccable, both the exterior and interior of the vehicle, why not extend the same standard to the engine compartment? Cleaning Methodology: •Remove any excess debris, leaves and etc from the hood, grille or air-vent openings •Spray electrical connectors with WD40 which repels moisture / water (avoid spraying on belts) •Use cling-film or Saran wrap elastic covers to cover any sensors, electrical black boxes, electrical devises that could cause an electrical short-circuits if subjected to water spray. •This will not guarantee that you won’t cause a problem when cleaning an engine bay but it will greatly reduce the risks. •Start and run the engine to get it warm, not hot, this will enable the de-greaser to work more efficiently on a warm surface. •Apply an engine de-greaser (Autoglym Engine Cleaner) or a citrus-based general cleaner (P12S Total Auto Wash) or a solvent free, water based cleaner (Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner) - http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext_mor.php by lightly spraying the lower parts of the engine first and then working upwards. •Enable the cleaner to work by allowing dwell time (but do not allow to completely dry) •Do not allow the de-greaser to dry or remain on painted surfaces, and be sure to dilute with water before drying with a cloth. •For heavily soiled areas agitate with a nylon engine cleaning brush and a diluted citrus-based cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash) •When the grease and grime is dissolved and you're ready to remove it, spray with a light (garden type) pressure water hose. •Use the blower side of a vacuum (avoid area that may be sensitive to a forced air flow) or allow the engine compartment to air dry and then thoroughly wipe down all accessible surfaces and then remove cling-film or aluminium foil. •When everything is dry apply a vinyl/rubber protectant to hoses, shields and wires, and wipe engine parts with CD2 Engine Detailer or 303 Aerospace Protectarant •Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth and apply a wax/sealant protection to painted surfaces. Note- Apply a vinyl dressing to hoses etc (no diethyl silicone fluid based dressings (DS) should be applied in the engine compartment. Use only water based polydimethalsiloxane (PDS) dressings and do not directly spray on to engine parts, spray a cloth and wipe contains no Clean Air Act Hazardous Air Pollutants (HAP) nor is it a RCRA hazardous waste in and of itself when disposed.

For any other enthusiast considering a 'clear bra' - Information resource: http://www.automotivearticles.com/Clear_Bra_3M.shtml 3M FAQ- http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U.../Consumer/FAQs/ X-Pel UK Area Dealers- http://www.xpel.com/products/dealersearch-world.asp X-Pel US by State Area Dealers- http://www.xpel.com/and use the Zip code locater.

I would advise it. The dealer may be reluctant to do it as it one of the hardest parts to cover due to its shape / curves Flex Agent: Aerodynamic spoilers, air dams and valences are manufactured from Flexathene® Thermoplastic Polyolefin's, the painting process for these parts requires a paint that has a very porous vinyl base with an elasticity additive to provide flexibility (this provides a limited protection against wheel thrown road stones)

Clear Automotive Protective Coating (A.K.A. Clear Bra): Developed by the 3M Company, Scotchgard™ Paint Protection Film, (SGPPF6) 99.5% optically clear 8Mil (0.008-inch) film designed to reduce stone chipping and bug damage on painted surfaces. It’s a blend of acycloolefin, copolymer and a thermoplastic urethane, a tough, conformable material that is covered by a clear coat layer. This rugged transparent material will not crack, shrink or peel over time and it resists yellowing, the film and clear coat layers contains a protection to counteract harmful ultraviolet (UV) and infrared (IR) radiation that can cause the surface to occlude (cloud) Testing from 3M reveals that the material will deflect road debris without film damage at up to 60MPH with the standard film. Mid-tone coloured cars, silver, reds, greens or gold’s, the film absolutely disappears into these colour (Product Specs http://www.armourfend.com/images/3M.pdf ) Ensure that there are no surface imperfections before installation. It is important to remember that paint protection film application is not considered to be a do-it-yourself project. For best results, professional application is recommended. Clean and maintain its surface with ( Z-8™ Grand Finale Spray Seal) or a plastic cleaner (Plexus® Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish) start at the centre and work outwards, do not use a foam pad / rotary buffer / abrasive compound on the plastic surface or detailer’s clay as it will cause micro-fine surface scratches. To remove minor scratches in the film (tape the edges of the auto mask when polishing the vehicles paint, use a high speed buffer (white foam pad only) and lightly glaze over the material. It is important not to apply a lot of pressure to the film as this may lead to burning of the surface. Use a Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol to clean out the edge (See also 3M website- http://www.mmm.com) Maintenance and Care- 1. To clean stains use a citrus based cleaner (P12S Total Auto Wash) polish the paint and the clear plastics separately, tape the edges with masking tape. It has a clear coat so it can be cared for like a clear coated paint; use Zaino or Klasse as they will dry ‘clear’. Use Z-14 Plastic Magic Cleaner & Polish™ or Plexus® Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish for maintenance and to remove any finger marks / smudges (avoid the use of abrasives) 2. What can be done about wax build up along the seams and how can I avoid it? Wax will leave a white line on the seam, it is recommended not to wax over the seams and wax the film and uncovered portions separately to keep from wax build-up. If you accidentally wax over the seam, just use a wet towel and rub it off. Another caution is to avoid buffing over the seams, which creates a noticeable wax line as well. 3. To remove ‘clouding’ from the paint under the clear bra; the suns heat or a hairdryer will remove it. Note: a) If the film is properly applied to a fully cured painted vehicle, it can be removed, usually in one piece, without damaging the paint surfaces beneath the film, by the application of heat (hair dryer not heat gun) to one corner pulling the film at an angle not straight up. Spray Valugard’s New Car Prep - htpp://www.autoint.com) or Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) onto the paint surface, allowing NCP / IPA to dwell for three or four minutes, and then remove the film by slowly pulling at an angle not straight up (applying heat to the film as it is lifted may help) Remove residue with a dampened 100% cotton towel (DFTowel) and / or detailer’s clay. B) Repainted vehicles, paint must be thoroughly dry and completely cured before any attempt to apply film to the vehicle is made, in order to avoid film bubbling (solvent pop) due to paint out-gassing. Check paint body shop and / or paint manufacturer's instructions for recommended cure time and method. Information resource: http://www.automotivearticles.com/Clear_Bra_3M.shtml 3M FAQ- http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U.../Consumer/FAQs/ X-Pel UK Area Dealers- http://www.xpel.com/products/dealersearch-world.asp X-Pel US by State Area Dealers- http://www.xpel.com/and use the Zip code locater.

Porter-Cable (PC) There are two model numbers 7336SP and 7424 both machines are identical, but they come equipped slightly differently. The 7336SP, sander polisher comes with a 6-inch counterweight; Porter-Cable outfits the 7424 Polisher with a 5-inch counterweight and a 6-inch foam-polishing pad, PN 54745 (the pad that may be included with the PC- don’t use it on your paint, as it will cause scratching)

Clear Coat: To statement that “a sealant has no benefit to the paint ‘because’ there is a clear coat, is baffling, as clear coat is a polyethylene paint but without colour pigmentation, its applied to provide the colour coat (base coat) with shine, if a clear coat did not need a protection applied, there would be no such thing as clear coat failure due to oxidation or any of a myriad of clear coat problems. To provide further improvements in appearance and durability the basecoat / clear coat systems were developed and introduced in the late 70’s. The base coat is comprised primarily of pigments held in place by a polymeric resin film (binder). The clear coat is solvent based urethane (a water-based clear coat is not yet available) and is applied in two layers; it also contains UV inhibitors Clear coat is not armour plating but by adding UV blockers it provides a level of protection for the colour pigmentation of the base (colour) coat, but it must be protected, and the most durable protection is a polymer sealant. Knowledge; [ability to correctly diagnosis problems] [then utilizing appropriate methodologies and products]

Stains: The first thing you should do upon discovering a stain is to act immediately. Don’t wait because heat and/or time will just cause the stain to set in deeper, which will make it much harder to remove. You should always test the cleaning product on an inconspicuous area first to make sure you won’t be incurring further damage. When the inevitable happens, remove as much of the stain as possible by blotting, not rubbing with paper towels, etc). Try not to let the stain `set' for too long before you remove it. Within a day or two, most spills will set and permanently stain your upholstery or become very difficult to remove Even without fabric protection, you would be amazed at how easy it is to clean up most stains with nothing more than a neutral detergent (Woolite or Dreft) and water. A neutral (or balanced) detergent will not bleach fabric or remove fabric protection. Heated water breaks down water-soluble soiling faster as it reduces overall chemical usage because it reduces the surface tension of the fibre. Heat acts as a catalyst promoting quicker reactions between chemicals and the soil thereby minimizing dwell time. To remove stains the surface tension that bonds them must be released, then the stain encapsulated and held in suspension to be removed. When cleaning a stain, try detergent and water first. If this does not remove the stain, then try a stronger type cleaner (303'M Cleaner & Spot Remover) once fabric is clean apply a fabric protection (303TM High Tech Fabric Guard) I’m repeatedly asked which product is the best interior cleaner. There is no one-product answer, as the so-called all purpose cleaners (APC) do not remove every stain, different stains require different solvents to remove them. Between these four cleaners you should be able to remove 99% of stains occurring in a vehicle and around the home – a) 303™ Rug / Upholstery Cleaner & Spot Remover B) P21S Total Auto Wash c) Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam d) Hoover Deep Cleansing Carpet/Upholstery Detergent Classifying stains-a) Organic stains- these include proteins and fats, body oils, mould yeast, bacteria, bugs and carbohydrates. Most of the stains found in the vehicle interior are of an organic nature and require an alkaline type cleaner. Some organic stains (i.e. blood, vomit, urine) should be removed with an enzyme type cleaner and a disinfectant applied to the area B) Non-Organic stains- mostly found on the exterior of the vehicle, hard water scale (calcium) lime deposits, Road tar, grease and oil film, and require an acidic type cleaner. c) Petroleum soils - substances that do not contain water, nor are they miscible, these soil types include, motor oils, and crease and road tar, and require a solvent type cleaner. Stain Types-a) Water Soluble Stains- These stains can be dissolved in cool water or loosened with water based cleaner, coffee; soft drinks, cocoa and chocolate are good examples. B) Oil soluble stains- These are stains that are comprised of oily or greasy substances, which include cooking, oil from fried foods and suntan oil. c) Combination Stains- These stains contain both water based and oil-soluble properties. Cleaning these stains require treatment with a petroleum solvent followed by water based cleaning solution. d) Unidentifiable Stains- Sometimes stains cannot be identified. Treat these stains like a combination stain. Clean with a petroleum solvent followed by water based cleaner.

Clear Automotive Protective Coating (A.K.A. Clear Bra): Developed by the 3M Company, Scotchgard™ Paint Protection Film, (SGPPF6) 99.5% optically clear 8Mil (0.008-inch) film designed to reduce stone chipping and bug damage on painted surfaces. It’s a blend of acycloolefin, copolymer and a thermoplastic urethane, a tough, conformable material that is covered by a clear coat layer. This rugged transparent material will not crack, shrink or peel over time and it resists yellowing, the film and clear coat layers contains a protection to counteract harmful ultraviolet (UV) and infrared (IR) radiation that can cause the surface to occlude (cloud) Testing from 3M reveals that the material will deflect road debris without film damage at up to 60MPH with the standard film. Mid-tone coloured cars, silver, reds, greens or gold’s, the film absolutely disappears into these colour (Product Specs http://www.armourfend.com/images/3M.pdf ) Ensure that there are no surface imperfections before installation. It is important to remember that paint protection film application is not considered to be a do-it-yourself project. For best results, professional application is recommended. Clean and maintain its surface with ( Z-8™ Grand Finale Spray Seal) or a plastic cleaner (Plexus® Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish) start at the centre and work outwards, do not use a foam pad / rotary buffer / abrasive compound on the plastic surface or detailer’s clay as it will cause micro-fine surface scratches. To remove minor scratches in the film (, tape the edges of the auto mask when polishing the vehicles paint, use a high speed buffer (white foam pad only) and lightly glaze over the material. It is important not to apply a lot of pressure to the film as this may lead to burning of the surface. Use a Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol to clean out the edge (See also 3M website- http://www.mmm.com) Maintenance and Care- 1. To clean stains use a citrus based cleaner (P12S Total Auto Wash) polish the paint and the clear plastics separately, tape the edges with masking tape. It has a clear coat so it can be cared for like a clear coated paint; use Zaino or Klasse as they will dry ‘clear’. Use Z-14 Plastic Magic Cleaner & Polish™ or Plexus® Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish for maintenance and to remove any finger marks / smudges (avoid the use of abrasives) 2. What can be done about wax build up along the seams and how can I avoid it? Wax will leave a white line on the seam, it is recommended not to wax over the seams and wax the film and uncovered portions separately to keep from wax build-up. If you accidentally wax over the seam, just use a wet towel and rub it off. Another caution is to avoid buffing over the seams, which creates a noticeable wax line as well. 3. To remove ‘clouding’ from the paint under the clear bra; the suns heat or a hairdryer will remove it. 4. Removal -it is not difficult to remove, apply heat to a corner with a hair dryer (not a heat gun) and work slowly to avoid breaking / tearing the vinyl (like any applied vinyl, the longer it’s been applied the more difficult it will be to remove) work slowly and be patient. Detailer’s clay and /or 1:1 Isopropyl Alcohol / distilled water to clean any adhesive residue. Note: if the film is properly applied to a fully cured painted vehicle, it can be removed, usually in one piece, without damaging the paint surfaces beneath the film by pulling the film at an angle not straight up. Information resource: http://www.automotivearticles.com/Clear_Bra_3M.shtml Alternative products- a) As an optically clear product (recommended) http://www.invisiblepatterns.com X-Pel UK Area Dealers- http://www.xpel.com/products/dealersearch-world.asp

Headliner Cleaning- http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;hl=headliner

I agree, its a great product. As for Windex, I think its overrated. I've rarely found a glass cleaner I didn't think was more effective than Windex. Try Stoners Glass Cleaner

Thumbs up... http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=17640&hl=

Lifetime Paint Protection: There is no polymer, synthetic or natural wax, or after-market product available that can provide a (2 or 5 year) lifetime protection to a paint film surface. Read the fine print in the contract offered by car dealerships, there is normally a clause that states you should return the vehicle for a "maintenance" application of the product (at 3 or 6 months intervals) failing to do this will void your warranty or the fine print will basically exclude every condition you could claim against The primary protection provided for a modern water-based colour coat is a polythene paint that has a thickness of 2-3 Mils (0.002-0.003") this is protected by a sacrificial barrier of wax or synthetic polymer sealant. This barrier is all that stands between the environmental contaminants (ultra violet radiation, acid rain, ozone, industrial pollution, rain, road dirt and tar, etc) and the paint film surface. This renewable barrier is less than 0.000001" thick. While it’s true that a polymer paints melting point is 350+oF, it is still subject to evaporation and erosion by the elements and vehicle washing. However its durability is approximately five or six months. The technology for a lifetime protection for a vehicles paint film surface does not currently exist. Most dealerships rely on the fact that few customers read the fine print on the contract; the PermaPlate box says is must be reapplied every 6 months and every 3 months on darker coloured cars (for which a service charge will apply). While it will not provide ‘lifetime’ protection go to a Chrysler or Dodge dealer and get them to apply the Daimler-Chrysler Master Shield sealant, this product provides both real protection and a real warranty for any make of vehicle.

Wheel Wax: A synthetic wax formulated from polymer and Carnauba wax, that provides a long lasting, heat resistant finish to vehicle wheel surfaces http://www.wheelwax.com/ (See section 8)

Alternative products- a) Lanka Paint chip and scratch repair technologies, is both a chemical and mechanical process, once the touch up paint has dried, The Blob Eliminator® will re-soften the paint, and the light rubbing mechanically begins to "smooth" down the excess paint, with the touch up paint now appearing on the cloth - http://www.langka.com/blob-eliminator-p-31.html Langka and Metallic Paint-the reason metallic looks different after using the product is the metallic flakes migrate to the upper level of the paint surface while setting up. To counter this, use the blue sanding card on edge immediately after applying the touch up, like a razor. This will remove most of the touch up while the metallic flakes are still suspended evenly throughout the paint, smearing the excess across the local area. Let dry and use the Langka to wipe away the smear tail left across the original (OME) paint. - http://www.langka.com / B) A system called Sprayless Scratch Repair- http://www.magictouchinc.com/ c) AutoSharp pen the pen itself is very easy to use. You simply shake it, depress the felt tip a few times to start the paint flow, and then begin to "colour" paint into the damaged areas, much like you would highlight a section of text in a book. http://www.autosharppen.com/ Note: The newly applied paint will appear darker; it will eventually lighten to match once it has been exposed to UVR. d) Dr. ColorChip™ Paint Chip Repair system - http://drcolorchip.com/ Paint chip repair companies- (UK) http://www.chipsaway.co.uk/index.asp e) Touchup123- Use detailer’s clay on panel to be treated, Wipe on Final Touch Compound to prep surface, Wipe Colorfill on ENTIRE panel to cover all the blemishes, Wipe on Final Touch Compound to remove excess Colorfill, Wipe off haze of Final Touch Compound to leave a polished shiny finish, Touch up any left over larger chips with a brush (can be built up and smoothed out later with Final Touch Compound if desired) - http://www.touchup123.com/ Metallic paints, silvers and gold’s, have to be applied with care to avoid problems with the "colour flop". Colour flop is the term given when metallic flakes in the chip reflect light giving you a lighter or darker appearance. This is a variable that cannot be controlled, for best results; shake the paint very well to get the metallic flakes evenly distributed before you apply

The acid content attacks the clear coat regardless of its thickness/condition or protectant used Bird Excrement: (Or insect excrement like Gypsy moth, June bug, Honeybees, etc) contain highly acidic concentrates (uric acid (pH 3.0-4.5) which if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces) Heat (vehicle paint temperature of 90oF+) creates a very aggressive reactivity of the acids that are present, which causes surface etching, so they should be removed without delay, at lower temperatures (40oF or less) there s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching. No wax or polymer sealant can provide a permanent shield against acidic bird excrement (Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is probably the most durable Carnauba wax product) but this may only provide enough of a barrier to enable it to be removed quickly before causing too much damage to the paint film surface. Birds use gravel to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause scratching. Insect honeydew (sometimes mistaken for tree resin) excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches is also acidic. Residue should be removed (see below) as soon as possible as it could compromise the clear coat. Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed and/or neutralized as quickly as possible. Using an IPA (isopropyl alcohol) no ammonia based (ammonia acts as an acid accelerant) glass cleaner or a gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time. The alcohol content, acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it dwell for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.

Windshield Haze or ‘Fog’: The vinyl used on vehicle dashboards contain plasticizers, these low molecular weight compounds maintain semi-rigid vinyl’s flexibility. The vinyl used in modern vehicle interiors vent (out-gassing) these are the plasticizers evaporating (more prevalent on newer vehicles or a dash with freshly applied vinyl dressing) Crack open vehicle windows when parked to allow the gasses to vent. UV and heat radiation will also cause the plasticizers to dry out, resulting in a chemical film that when combined with road oils, dirt and grease introduced via by the vehicles a/c system results in a stubborn haze or fog that forms a cohesive bond with the interior glass surfaces. Glass cleaning Methodology •Use Stoners Invisible Glass TM in a trigger spray bottle and mist the entire glass surface •Allow the wetted surface dwell time, to enable the chemicals to break down the deposits that have out gassed from the vinyl, any smoke residue, or road dirt/grime that has entered via the AC system •Use two glass cleaning towels (or clean surgical towels) folded into quarters, use one to agitate the wetted surface, the second to dry the surface and pick up any residue. •Always use the second towel in the opposite direction that you agitated with, this small difference reduces a lot of problems. •If after cleaning there is still a persistent ‘fog / haze’ pour some Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) on to a clean dry cloth and agitate the surface film, fold towel to a clean surface and remove residue

Q1. I have read that woolite is a good leather cleaner when properly diluted. Does it stain/ fade/ bleach any of the other parts in the interior if it splashes. A1. Cleaning- use a soft horse hair brush (Groit's Leather & Interior Brush) and/or a vacuum to remove any dust, apply a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a clean, damp Microfiber towel to rinse. Maintenance cleaning- use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 10:1 ratio) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time Q2. I have read that woolite can be used as a window cleaner. What is the advantage over a normal windex/ eagle 20/20 cleaner. What happens if it gets on the paint job? Does it eat wax if spashed on the paint? A2. I would use a specific window cleaner, Woolite is a very mild product and way not ‘cut’ through road grime etc on glass, it will NOT harm the paint surface or wax Q3. I have read that it is good for cleaning wheel wells. Does it still need to be dilluted or is that at full strength? Will it damage the rims/ tires/ or paint at that concentration? What is the benifit over a normal automotive soap? Do you remove the tires to do the wells and when they are done what do you use to keep them looking nice a darK? A3. It may make it easier if you remove the road wheel to provide unhindered access to the fender wells. Rinse wheel wells thoroughly with water, apply a citrus-based de-greaser and let it soak in. Agitate with a long handled boar’s hairbrush before rinsing. Dry surfaces with a terry cloth towel before applying a water-based rubber/vinyl dressing; wipe off any excess and buff surfaces. This simple detailing step will provide a `frame' for your wheels and tyres and provide a completely finished look to the vehicle. After cleaning wipe surface with a solvent type cleaner and then they can be painted with a satin paint to maintain an as-new look (Groit’s Satin Black Spray Paint)

http://www.autoanything.com/sheepskin-seatcovers/index.aspx Amazing what a google search will provide, try it...

Thank you "Knowledge unshared is experience wasted" TOGWT

Vehicle Storage Indoor: Dustop TM- 4 layer (polypropylene / polyethylene composite spun bond) cover with maximum dust protection and its soft inner layer protects paint. Light and easy to handle, prevents dings, for inside protection from dust and dirt, ideal for indoor vehicle storage or as the primary cover of a two-cover system (see Strong Winds or Desert Dust Storms) Long Term Outdoor: WeathersheildTM HD- primarily for intense sun environments and long-term storage provides optimum protection from water, dust, tree sap, while providing long-term UVR protection and maximum weatherproof protection from a multi-layer breathable (heavyweight) fabric. Outdoor Weather Protection For fabric see Outdoor Fabric Guide All Weather: WeathersheildTM - single layer construction, maximum weatherproof, superior dry time, breathable, scratch-less, durable, easy care, and packs small and light made from a durable breathable polymer fabric, provides protection from UVR, acid rain, dust, dirt, intense sunlight and wind/storm proof up to force 8 hurricanes. Severe Rain Storms: EvolutionTM (TechnalonTM)- a heavyweight, four-layer fabric ultrasonically bonded to provide more water resistance than most covers as well as UVR protection for extended outdoor use, but especially heavy rain protection. Places a soft, paint protecting finish against the vehicles surfaces, also provide impact protection from nicks, dings, dents and scratches. Inclement Weather: NoahTM by Kimberly ClarkTM — one third less the material weight of the EvolutionTM cover, a three-layer fabric ultrasonically bonded to provide more water resistance than most covers as well as UVR protection for extended outdoor use, but especially heavy rain protection. Places a soft, paint protecting finish against the vehicles surfaces Strong Winds or Desert Dust Storms: Gales or strong winds and desert dust storms can buffer the car cover causing surface marring, wind blown sand, dirt or grit if it gets between the paint surface and a wind buffered cover will cause surface scratches. To avoid this use a Dust Stop™ as a secondary cover, this tight fitting cotton fleece lined material will protect the surface, then use a Weathersheild™ as the primary cover for weather protection. Both of these covers are made of a breathable material so moisture or condensation will not be trapped between the covers and the surface Two-cover system: During high winds or prolonged storage the use of this system will avoid paint surface marring from the cover being buffered by high force winds (Hurricanes) 1. Dustop TM Four layer cover with maximum dust protection and its soft inner layer protects paint from marring 2. WeathersheildTM - single layer construction, primarily for intense sun environments and long-term storage provides optimum protection from water, dust, tree sap, while providing long-term UVR protection and maximum weatherproof protection from a multi-layer breathable fabric. http://www.carcoverworld.com

Leather Care 101 1. Cleaning 2. Conditioning 3. Ultra Violet Radiation protection 1. Cleaning- use a soft horse hair brush (Groit's Leather & Interior Brush) and/or a vacuum to remove any dust, apply a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 6:1 ratio or stronger) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a clean, damp Microfiber towel to rinse. Maintenance cleaning- use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 10:1 ratio) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time Stubborn stains- dependent upon the leathers condition or how dirty it is consider using a leather-cleaning product. (Leatherique's Prestine Clean, Zaino Leather in a bottle, Groit's Leather Cleaner or Autoglym Leather Cleaner) 2. Initial conditioning - for the initial conditioning of uncoated leather, and/or if you are cleaning it for the first time use a Leather Rejuvenator. (http://www.Leatherique.com) [use Zaino Z-10 Leather in a bottle on coated leather] paying particular attention to area that are exposed to the most UV radiation, i.e. backs of headrests, seat shoulders, and then apply to the rest of the seating surfaces starting at he top and working your way down. Allow the product to be absorbed into the hides for several hours on a sunny day, or overnight. Warmth makes the leather fibres pores open allowing the proteins and collagens to be absorbed readily. Park the car in direct sunlight, cover seats with black plastic trash bags, and roll up the windows to create a steam room to allow the Rejuvenator to fully penetrate into the hides. 2a. Conditioning- recommend a preventative maintenance routine three to four times a year, once prior to the winter season to prevent cold temperatures cracking the leather, and once before the heat of the summer to prevent deterioration and shrinkage by heat, which result in continued cracking of leather. In addition to regular cleaning, leather requires replacement of natural oils; Collagen-based products like Leatherique restore the lost moisture and maintain its natural flexibility. The smell of leather comes from oils evaporating out of the hide. Conditioners are for leather which is porous, vinyl is not, do not use a vinyl product as a conditioner on leather as vinyl requires much stronger cleaning agents than leather and above all try to avoid raw silicone oil based products, as the silicone oil will dissolve the leather's natural oils and tend to make the leather sticky, silicone oils also have a very high electrostatic (static) attraction to dust and dirt particle. 1.Conditioning products should be applied to a warm surface to help the oils penetrate the coating (warm with the suns heat or a hairdryer) allow sufficient time (preferably overnight) for the oils to permeate the coating and reach the leather underneath. 2.It is possible to over-condition leather once the hide has absorbed the product it will saturate the foam and the hides stitching and may cause it to fray /disintegrate or over-clean your leather as this may lead to premature cracking and discoloration. Most leathers are treated at the tannery with a protective coating to help protect against staining. Excessive cleaning and conditioning can remove some of the protective properties. Carry a small spray bottle of water and a clean micro fibre cloth so if you ever spill something onto your leather, spray the affected area and wipe it as soon as possible, you should then treat the affected area with leather conditioner. 3.Conditioning oils will penetrate the fibres more efficiently if they are warmed first; place the plastic container in a microwave before using. For best results warm the leather also before application (vehicle heating system, hairdryer, or the suns heat Allow sufficient permeation time (4-6 hours) or overnight if possible, especially with coated or spray-on dye leathers.) Schedule: Once every 30-60 days, Arizona, Florida and Texas, especially in summer, for northern climates between 90-120 days, use a leather conditioner to restore these natural oils and keep the leather soft and supple. (Criot's Leather Care, Autoglym Leather Care Cream, Zanio Z10 Leather in a Bottle or Zymol Treat leather cleaners are all good maintenance products) 3. Ultraviolet Radiation (UVR) Protection - you should consider additional sunscreen protection (especially if you own a convertible) leather conditioners typically do not offer any UV screening. The best solution is to alternate between a leather conditioner and a, ultra violet radiation (UVR) protection (303™ Aerospace Protectant). One month use a conditioner to keep the leather healthy and supple. On alternate months mist and wipe the leather with a UVR protection. After application allow 60 minutes for product to cure, then using a 100% cotton cloth to lightly buff surface

Removing Oxidation or scratches from Vehicle headlights, Brake lights (polycarbonate) Most vehicles now have a protective, transparent, plastic lens covering the headlights to protect expensive lamps (headlight assemblies range from 500-$700+) from flying stones and road debris. They discolour over time, becoming opaque and cloudy; these lenses can severely restrict the amount of light reaching the road. The lens has a silicone-based coating applied to its outer surface, some manufacturers apply two different types of coatings to the outer surface of the lens, these coatings are mainly for UVR protection, but are also for impact and abrasion resistance, once the coating (s) fail the lens surface will occlude (clouding or yellowing) While most of the cloudiness is on the surface, severely discoloured lens cannot be brought back to optical clarity. If you live in a southern state, this discoloration can become noticeable in as little as two-years. You could also use a metal polish (Reckitt and Coleman’s Brasso®) Novus 1 - gently cleans all plastics without scratching, leaves a lustrous shine that resists fogging, repels dust, and eliminates static. Novus 2 - removes fine scratches, haziness, and abrasions from most plastics (exceptional for removing scratches from Plexiglas). Use repeatedly and restore faded and discoloured plastics. Novus 3 -removes heavy scratches and abrasions from most acrylic surfaces. Contains abrasives, not for use on eyeglasses, polycarbonate, or coated plastics, final finishing also requires the use of Novus 2 http://www.modernplastics.com. Novus Plastic Polish Kit Application Methodology: •Use a solvent type cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) if this does not remove the oxidation use a plastic polish •Meguiar’s PlastX contains a microscopic diminishing abrasive, which requires a little pressure when applying it to enable these abrasives to remove the discoloured plastic and expose new plastic. Or Renovo Plastic Cleaner •Plastic Cleaners can be used to clean and condition Perspex as well as flexible plastic but is not suitable for use on glass. •Prior to application of a plastic polish ensure that the window is clean and free from dust particles by washing with a soft cloth and warm water. •It is not advisable to use cleaning detergents on plastic. •Shake the bottle thoroughly. Plastic polish can be hand or machine applied •Using a random orbital buffer with a 3.5-inch backing plate and a 4-inch (LC White) polishing pad or a terry cloth applicator •Place a small dab (about ½-inch diameter) of plastic polish on the foam pad or applicator. •Place the pad on the lens surface and turn on the machine (speed #4) •Polish the lens repeatedly in a left-to-right and an up and down pattern. •Continue polishing until all the polish is gone •Wipe the lens with a damp Microfiber towel •Inspect the lens, repeat the polishing process 2-3 times as necessary •Plastic polish will not remove clarity defects that are within the plastic but it will remove external/surface scratching and oxidation (yellowing) Wet-sanding- some OEM headlights have a coating applied this coating does not respond well to sanding test a small inconspicuous area. If the plastic starts to turn white, do not sand the lenses. Use a plastic polish (see Plastic Polishing)

Quote: ...bought the "ResistAll" stuff from the dealer too, but I suspect that was a waste... I think it's just a polymer sealant, but it does warranty the car against tree sap, acid rain, etc etc. Also it covers punctures & tears to the leather. There is no product that will resist the acidic damage that is caused by acid rain (pH 3.0 0 4.0) and catalytic converter emissions (hydrochloric and sulphuric acids) I would suggest you check the smal print on the warranty, @Also it covers punctures & tears to the leather" "If it sounds too good to be true et etc"

"I wouldnt use any abrasive...." a mostly forgotten fact; detailer's clay is a mildly abrasive surface preparation, with an average particle size of 1- micron of Kaolin abrasives that polish and exfoliate contaminants by shearing and / or encapsulation Instead use a plastic cleaner like Plexus

Maintenance cleaning- use a cleaning solution (Water /Woolite® or Dreft® 10:1 ratio) on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time Stubborn stains- dependent upon the leathers condition or how dirty it is consider using a leather-cleaning product. (Leatherique's Prestine Clean, Zaino Leather in a bottle, Groit's Leather Cleaner or Autoglym Leather Cleaner)