SW03ES

And because its what the manufacturer reccomends...

Really its 2012...but its not 2012...its 2010. People need to learn that technology is not a replacement for actually knowing how to drive.

Try a different dealer, they can install them... As for the sunshade, its nice in very limited situations...I wouldn't worry about it. Congrats!

Are your wheels chrome? Its really common on the chrome wheels...

My issue with this whole thing is, when did it become a requirement for a car to have an anti-skid system? What if the GX had no VSC system? Somehow we all used to survive before cars had these systems, so how does a system that the car is not required to have not working as quickly as they would like it to work make a vehicle "unsafe"?

The next version wont be until 2012, the 2011 will be the same as the 2010. Are you happy with your ES? It certainly has many more years of life left, so its clearly a choice upgrade.

Right, but the ES isn't designed to run on 87...it is designed to run on 91+. The manual clearly states that premium fuel should be used, but if it is unavailable you MAY substitute unleaded fuel of down to an octane rating of 87 but may experienced reduced performance. It certainly doesn't say "use regular". My Prius says "use regular" so I use regular. The Lexus says "use premium but if you are out of gas and only can find regular, it will probably be okay"...so I use premium.

Thats another point too. Technically they are optional...but Lexus only ships the car three ways...and all have leather...so it really is standard.

I have no idea what you're talking about...everything in this thread and in the other thread you posted is 100% normal. Please don't think I'm rude, but in the past I have posted a lot of information in attempts to try and help you and you reply as if you really haven't read anything I've said. I am going to do that again today, PLEASE read everything I am saying. Whatever your mechanic may tell you that is contrary to what I am saying is wrong. These are the facts: I've read through your post. I think you should find another shop. A lot of what you're talking about doesn't make sense, a bad motor or transmission mount isn't going to cause the wheels to throw weights. Thats caused by weights that are improperly seated in the first place. A missing wheel weight isn't going to cause a bounce as you're coming to a stop, it will cause a steady throbbing vibration at highway speeds between 60-75MPH or so. If you feel it in the steering wheel...its a front wheel. If you feel it in the floor and seat its a rear wheel. Motor and transmission mounts don't get worse by the day...its a very gradual decline that is often imperceptible by the driver. I think you should start with a new shop and a RoadForce balance. I had a wheel balance problem for a couple months, my trusted mechanic who is very good had balanced and balanced and balanced my wheels and I was starting to think like you that there was an issue somewhere else. I took it to another shop with a RoadForce balancer...3 of the 4 wheels were out of balance and now the car drives smooth as glass at all speeds again. Incredible. These cars are VERY sensitive to wheels being out of balance. Does your car have the original ball joints and lower control arm bushings? See how the car is after the road force balance. It will also tell you if you have wheels or tires that are out of round. If they are out of round...they have to be replaced. I have a feeling those non-OEM wheels of yours are a part of the problem. You may have to replace all the wheels if those wheels are out of round and bent. After the road force balance is done and you have the car driving right at speed...address the idle roughness you are experiencing. Is the air filter clean? Is the fuel filter clean? Have the spark plugs and wires been replaced? Should have been done at 100k. What about the timing belt? If all these things are done and its still running rough...replace the motor and tranny mounts. Thats a good roadmap for you, PLEASE listen to me. You can keep spending money left and right here but if you don't go about it in a systematic way you're going to be out of money...and still have a vibrating car...

It may only be the 2010 then...

But politics how, to who'se benefit? I know several people who have Jags and are really happy.

Interesting video. I haven't driven the Lacrosse but I have sat in a few of them...and they don't do anything for me. The interior is busy and full of weird angles that IMHO will date it quickly, materials aren't great and the wood is a not particularly good imitation. It feels like you're sitting in a Buick... Ride and drive might be great, but thats not going to be enough. Plus they compared the 2010 Buick to the 2009 ES, the 2010 ES has several improvements that they mentioned as issues (trim, double stitched leather seats in the UL model) and its priced less. When you take the UL ES off the table the ES is cheaper than the Lacrosse and it certainly will have much better resale... Not to mention the brand panache issue... Compare the Lacrosse to a Hyundai Genesis and it will put it to shame...

Thats what I figured about the cost...

No prob!

No idea why you can't open your last thread...I'll go check on it. $112 for an aftermarket mount or $164 for the factory mount...IMHO the $52 more for the OEM part is totally worth it. How much vibration are you feeling when at a light? My ES has never been 100% vibration free at idle like say an LS is, even when it was new. I have always been able to slightly feel the engine idling. If you turn the HVAC off you'll notice it smooths out. So the mounts are probably worn...mine are certainly worn after 145k miles. I just recently had the dogbone mount replaced and am thinking about having the lower mount replaced but its still really smooth as it is. I highly doubt that is your road vibration though. Have you ever had the wheels road force balanced? I just dealt with a vibration that balancing was changing but never completely doing away with. I just had the wheels road force balanced yesterday and its 100% smooth again. Not cheap...but when you just can't seem to get them balanced it works. Plus the road force machine will tell the tech if there are any internal issues with the tires or any issues with the wheels. I know you said you had some bent rims...they are going to have to be It is a machine and it does exhibit some vibration when its operating...sometimes when you go digging for all these things you just get hyper sensitive to it...

Doesn't Lexus specify 10,000 miles now with synthetic oil? Do you have the factory maintenance schedule?

The reliability has improved tremendously. If you look at all the latest 3 and 5 year dependability standards Jaguar is doing very well...even better than Lexus in some areas. Plus it'll be new...and under warranty. I would buy a Jaguar no problem.

Well the ES is on a 5 year cycle. So we had an all new ES in 2007. That ES ran for 3 years...and we have a refreshed ES for 2010. We'll probably see the all new ES in 2012.

I know that...but peeling of aftermarket chrome rims is very common. Thats really strange. Have you ever used any chemical wheel cleaner sprays? Do you have it washed at a carwash or do you wash it by hand?

If she likes a sporty car shes not going to like the LS. They have the sport model now...but I'm dubious as to how sporty it is...I havent driven one. I really liked the BMW 550 Gran Turismo at the car show... What about a new Jaguar XF or XJ?

Are the wheels chrome?

I'd say the Lexus LS...but obviously I'm biased. Does she want something sporty?

I would imagine that they just stick on and could be added to your '08. You may have to remove the body colored mouldings that are already there though. I bet they are expensive though...

The dealer's prep department obviously screwed that up...glad it got resolved.

Pretty sound advice if you ask me...