billydpowell

this might help sf-43tps.pdf

Micah, when you replace your bushings, do it as shown, and dont tighten the bolt with the wheels hanging. we jacked up the lower arm (carefully) to where it was just slightly on the jack stand, and then tightened the bolt(meshing the teeth), if done while in the air, when lowered to normal position, the bushing is stressed and will tear sooner, and not give the overall ride you want. sa-34bush.pdf

while researching, I found this: The valve allows trapped air to escape when the cooling system is flushed or broken open and drained. The trapped air is a serious problem creating hot spots and erratic sensor behavior. There are reports that the air is hard to remove without the valve. Since air seeks vertical height in water, comments????

There has been a lot of talk on this, and while reading up on it I found this: Insert the thermostat into the water inlet housing with the jiggle valve facing straight upward. Now I have been in auto mechanics all my life, and this was new to me... maybe in Texas we are behind. Then I read up on the "jiggle valve" and found it to be an "air bleeder" This made me think, if you installed it with the valve DOWN, would that prevent getting the air out of the system, and thus a constant "air lock" ?? I am searching for answers.... what about it, landar, kansas, pd, curious, vb, steve, have you guys always known about this, and I am just finding out??? looking for a little knowledge... 86713057L.bmp

I think he was talking about the lower panel that is painted a different color, if so this will help: bo-47.pdf bo-48.pdf bo-49.pdf bo-50.pdf

no, 95-97 are the good ones, 98-2000 are the ones that fall apart.. anyway, glad you are back at it. your unit comes out very easy, and the plugs come apart easy too. good luck

this may help... bo-19.pdf

have your mechanic pressure test your cooling system, you must have a leak that allows air to be sucked in as your coolant cools off. when we put motor mounts on my 99, we broke the HCV, I got one at a salvage yard for $15. working fine... here it is

You may not need to know this, but just ignore it if you dont need it. pressure in a radiator is NOT used to move the coolant along, only the water pump does this. and there are several passages it can use, when you open the HCV the coolant has the opportunity to flow thru the heater core. IF an air bubble is in the core, it holds the coolant back until there is enough force (higher rpms)from the pump to push it thru. Pressure caps are designed keep the coolant from boiling at 212 degrees. your car is more effecient at 240 degrees.. to acomplish this the pressure cap... each pound of pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant by 3 degrees. so a 10 lb cap allows your coolant to operate at 242 degrees, and so on.... class over...

on my 97, I used a putty knife to run around the edges to make sure they were not stuck together, didnt want to tear the covering, then used a screw driver to lift the (blue) tray out, (simular to the gearshift panel). it was not easy but they separated, they are held together with the 90468-04179 clips. If you are the type to get upset and use force, you dont really want to do this...... be gentle.

also.... dont you have any hills you can park on? I remember a "few" around there. your helper can even be your wife/girlfriend, just show them the tach. and loosen the bolt.

Smile.... I have only seen snow on Christmas in Texas, two times in my 76 years... so I have to dream. but I dont have to drive on it... and that is a good thing, I am the worlds worst. what ever it takes to do it, is missing in me...

Brian, there is a bolt you can loosen to help get rid of air also, this photo is when we put my timing belt and water pump on my old 97 LS, should be the same as yours. you can see the black water outlet in the photo. right above it is the bolt. I dont suggest you try this, but I ran mine with this bolt loose, not removed, but not tight. with my system filled and radiator cap on. ran it about 2500rpm and let the air and coolant seep out, I could see air bubbles coming out at first, then just coolant. tightened the bolt up, let it cool down and topped the reservior off, never a problem. you might download this, print it and let your mechanic see it. I had a 7 stall garage for 30 years... so I know this works. not trying to be smart, just trying to help. click on the photo to enlarge it. next is my A in front of my Shop

P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem you might want to remove it and reinstall it and dont force anything. here is how they work: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h33.pdf

you ask the same question 14 months ago, and the answer is still the same.

Well one of my license plate light bulbs burned out, easiest change on a LS. the info below might be of some help to someone. 1999 Lexus LS400 Car Light Bulb Socket Sizes Low Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9006 High Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9005 Parking Light Bulb Size: 2825 Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 7440 Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 7440 Tail Light Bulb Size: 7443 Stop Light Bulb Size: 7443 High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: 921 Fog/Driving Light Bulb Size: 9006 License Plate Light Bulb Size: 2825 Back Up Light Bulb Size: 7440 Front Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 2825 Rear Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 2825 Glove Box Light Bulb Size: 37 Step/Courtesy Light Bulb Size: 194 or 74 or DE3021 Trunk/Cargo Area Light Bulb Size: 194 Instrument-General Light Bulb Size: 194

This has been covered many many times, do a search or check this link http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67323

good for you and 3 CHEERS for the little Lady

one of my 99's came with a cracked case, I bought another case off ebay and transferred the "inners" to the new key, had it cut for the ignition, and I noticed a weakness in the structure, taught my wife how to hold the new key close to the shaft, and we have had no more trouble... that is about the only "weakness" in a Lexus.... and I have a spare emergency key.

Thank you, I will do, in addition the information display (LCD that gices all the MPG, odomoter etc. stopped) all this started after replacing the alternator any ideas ? the dealer wants $1100.00 to replace the PCB !! sounds like you/somebody replaced the alternator without disconnecting the battery, and sparks flew. I hope it was somebody in the business of auto repair. Do you remember the statement "Houston, we have a problem", Apollo 13 was the third Apollo mission intended to land on the Moon. The craft was successfully launched toward the Moon, but the landing had to be aborted after an oxygen tank ruptured, severely damaging the spacecraft's electrical system. WELL, in like manner, "Joemiz you have a problem" It will take some research to solve this. hopefully someone reading this has had/known about the PCB. I have not encountered this problem.

SURE..... go by autozone and ask them to read your codes (its free) and come back and give us the information... then we can see if we can help you. The VSC light is an alert that covers MANY different problems.

Our interiors are a little different also.

WOW, great looking cars, Guy's.... I thought all european cars were right hand drive? I love mine too, hope to get the tilt fixed soon.