billydpowell

I would have to try driving fast freeway speeds (80) for about an hour to try and burn them out

I have never done it, just aware of it, follow this thread: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-generation/471376-pnp-sensor-replacement.html get a hold of lexmex for information

Let's not fit the oil drain plug and gasket ... I guessing it's the same on all vehicles made by Toyota. :) ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhoooooooooooooooo you got me on that one......

yep,... a few light bulbs and maybe a wiper blade, with a radiator cap ... smiles

p1780 PNP failure. Seems the PNP switch is the Park Neutral Position switch which is used to sense the position of the shifter. Sometimes these switches may stick or if the car was started/stopped with the shifter in an "in between" position the computer may have seen it as a malfucntion. I would suggest clearing the code and seeing if it comes back. If it comes back have the switch replaced. Most times these swicthes are on the side of the transmission. p120 & 121 .. PO120 Throttle position Sensor Malfunction & PO121 Tp Sensor Fault .

I've been lurking and watching your updates on that '99, Billy. I was hoping for your opinion. I noticed you decided to keep the '97 and part ways with the '96. (clever procedure on that starter, btw) yep the 97 is the one we put the TB/WP in last september, so it is good for the rest of my life. plus I replaced the strut rod bushings in it too, and have the motor supports for it also and have already replaced the tranny mount..... ALSO on the 99, I replaced the front brakes & rotors... THE 97 below....

WELL, my 99 is a pleasure. 140k, most complaints I have had is door locks not working with KEY fob. make sure ALL 4 doors will lock and unlock. I have fixed mine. tranny mount replaced. front strut rod bushings replaced. engine mounts replaced. starter contacts replaced. and it gets 30mph at 80mph on the highway with AC on

on the photo below, (this dosent look like my 99 unit, just an example) the two copper contacts (on mine) was blackened, we cleaned them, and it works... this might not fix anyone but mine... but it did fix mine... before he cleaned mine, he tested the motor out of the case, at the battery. and it ran strong, both directions... check yours out before you throw it away...

my 99LS drivers door lock would not work with the remote (on key) or the button on the door, the other three would operate with button or fob. I found one at a salvage yard today, and went to install it and my nephew checked the old one out, AND IT WORKED. put the new one in and it would not work. he checked it out and found the contact points were "burned" covered with black, cleaned them off and both motors work now. maybe this will help someone else out, I hope so. good luck..

my 99LS came with only one remote key, and my drivers door has a faulty actuator and will not work with the remote (the other three & trunk do) not willing to drop 650 for repairs, I bought a key off ebay, had it cut at Sewell $7.00 (but they wanted $70 to program it) took it to Davenports (who wanted $35 to cut it) and they charged 35 to program it, it works fine for me. I put it in the door, turn once just for the driver door or twice for all four doors, UPDATE!! my nephew Jon took my drivers door apart and fixed my actuator, and NOW all 4 doors lock/unlock with remote, so now I wish I had another FOB key..... but I am happy to have it fixed.

if yours dosent look like this, you must have a ford.....

take a flatblade screwdriver and pop off the 4 plastic covers at the end of each seat tract. THEN take the four bolts out that holds the seat into the car. easy if you can move the seat forward and backward far enough to get them with a socket, harder if you cant, but can still be done, THEN lean the seat backward and take a look at the problem, and tell us how you FIXED it... photos will help those of us who are a little slow mentalty.... smile.

Looks like you have a 97 model, my starter was on my 99. my egr tube was on my 97, have not had any PS issues. SO, starter replacement access would not help the egr replacement. get the starter kit from the dealer, it is complete with what you need. NOTE: someone posted a NEW starter for $165, I am sure it was a rebuilt, but if I could get the whole thing for that small amount, that is a good way to go. NOW egr tube.. (you can do a search on this) you need to remove the RHS cat for access to the tube mounting bolts, so get the 2 gaskets for the cat + the tube and gaskets.

I have a weird problem that pops up every now and then...... yes you do. NEVER heard of that one..... maybe someone has.. I am in agreement with you.

my 97 LS just turned over 249k, replaced: TB/WP @ 240, 2-Cat/converter, Rotors & pads, Strut rod bushings, Engine mounts & a tranny mount, and it runs solid and quite.... coach edition, clean as a pin,.

Correct, Jon (my nephew) thought of it last time he done one and decided to experiment with mine, it worked fine but the one contact nut on the left (driver) side was tuff to break loose because it is so close to the engine.

sorry I am at a loss with how to's.. if you are not sure of what you are doing, you... take photos so you will know where to put things back We/HE, pulled the top of the engine down to where he could move the intake forward out of the way, then took the two long bolts out of the starter to get it out of the way (see photo), then replaced the contacts and plunger, and reinstalled everything.. starts and runs fine....

bump

I am going to replace the starter contacts when it fails or when the weather cools down, which ever is first. well the fail came first...... I ordered my Starter rebuild kit yesterday from Sewell, $94 w/shipping & tax. but the old man will get my nephew do do this.

on my 99LS, my CEL & VSC came on and my code was P1349. OIL CONTROL VALVE DIRTY. cleaned, no more problem. about 30 minutes work. ocv.pdf

I didnt have to go that far, neither of mine were bad, but my 97 is a coach edition and has the perforated seats in it and I was going to put them into the 99, just do a swap, but the connecter wiring was different, so I made no exchange, didnt know the seat belt would be an issue. I dont have any knowledge to share with you, but if you make it we can all gain by your experience, good luck.

My nephew replaced my motor mounts today, at 140k miles. I didnt know they were so bad. they came out in two pieces. I am sure it will be much better in the morning when we go to church. VERY GOOD, every thing just feels rock solid, no vibes at all. I had already replaced the tranny mount in May. my 97 is next.

I am not up on brembo rotors, but I replaced my front rotors and pads the end of may and my 99LS drives and stops smooth and solid. I got a set of TRW rotors and ceramic pads for it.. $90 bucks for everything... They were made by TRW, I got them at BrakeOverstock:(this is from them) There are millions of dollars of surplus automotive parts inventory available in the United States. Brake Overstock specializes in the purchase of surplus name brand brake parts below wholesale prices. We pass the savings on to you with prices up to 40% lower than your local auto parts store. We only sell premium quality brake parts from reputable brand names. Our mission is to exceed your expectations, and earn your business again and again. Our team is dedicated to 5 Star performance. Have questions? Customer service representatives are available M-F from 8:30 to 6:00 pm CST. You can call us at (888) 441-8808 or e-mail us at brakeoverstock@gmail.com And I am familiar with TRW, having owned my own garage for 30 years. you can check them out here: http://www.trwauto.com/ just rotors here: http://www.trwauto.com/sub_system/rotors good luck on yours... hope this helps. .

P430 LS400 Catalytic converter failure my 97 did the same thing at 246k I replaced the two front converters. no more problems. I got mine from mufexpress on ebay they are $115. each and a perfect fit see #320535514532 good luck... they are not hard to put on. OH, still driving it, still no lights PS o2's hardly ever fail, they just read the gas that flows thru and tell the ecm if the cats are working.. mine didnt

I tried to make that swap a while back, and I noticed all the right colored wires are there, they are just not matched up right. and I didnt have the tool to remove them and match them up. that is all you would need to do, if you have the right equipment. I didnt want to cut and wrap wires....