Mile_High_Flyer

I have replaced all the hoses on the VSV (VACUUM SWITCHING VALVE) for EVAP etc, but of course, not the other parts. The VSV appears to be fine, the resistances are within spec, the valve opens and closes properly after cleaning, I can blow through it when open, but not when closed, I tried blowing through the tube off the canister line, unsuccessfully, instead of using smoke. After I left the shop where I bought the above hoses, without having done anything, it came right, all was beautiful! I did the hoses after I got home, and it was still good. However, yesterday, it all started turning to custard again. Today was worse. All the usual, bad idle, smell, reduced fuel economy, not-so-smooth gear changes etc. I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to do next! I haven't refueled, as the tank is about 3/4 full. When I did fill up the other day, I stopped as soon as the nozzle clicked off the first time. Wondering whether another reboot by disconnecting the battery for half an hour, might help make things right again once the computer gets itself sorted, after some mileage, hopefully not just temporarily. Or should I drive it some more first, and see what happens? After that, it got worse. A lot worse! I then removed the PCV valve. It rattled, as it should, but I still cleaned it with throttle body cleaner. I couldn't blow through it one way, but could the other way, and the rattle was slightly louder, and appeared to be more free. I then reinstalled it. Its hose appeared to be fine. I then looked at the 2 Pressure pulsation dampers. Couldn't see any signs of fuel leakage. I then went for a very short run, but it didn't improve. When I got back, I turned off the engine and looked at the dampers again. The screws had risen up. So presumably they are working, with no diaphragm leakage as there was obviously still pressure there. So, I rebooted by disconnecting the battery for half an hour again. It then came pretty well right and kept improving slowly, as has always happened previously, but then, after a time, it went bad again. I then blew through the line back towards the canister, then sucked it, and the line was free. I assume that's how it is supposed to be. We have also checked the VVT solenoids, and they appear to be working correctly. Another reboot! This time it hasn't had enough time to go wrong yet, but I expect it to probably do so soon! I'm wondering if it could possibly be the ECU computer? When it's starting to go wrong, the first indication usually seems to be the rougher gear changes, then the fuel consumption starts going up, and after a while, the exhaust pipes start to go black. There are no CEL dash lights, and my tester doesn't show any codes. A couple of days later: Here we go again! It's started having slightly less smooth gear changes, and the exhaust pipes are starting to blacken! It never seems to lose power, even when it's pretty bad. it can accelerate hard, right up to gear change revs. I'm in two minds as to whether I should reboot again now, or continue driving and see what happens. One time it got really bad, it was so rich it was smoking and even missing. Another time, it came right by itself, until it went out again! It always comes right, albeit temporarily after a reboot, usually for about 2 or 3 hundred kilometres. I did reboot again, and it lasted about 300km before starting to go bad again. As a reminder, it's an '04/'05 LS430 right hand drive imported from Singapore to New Zealand. Everything in English, not Japanese. Done about 230 Km. Any more suggestions? Please!!

My 2005 LS 430 has recently been getting very warm when working a bit harder than standard. No, not thrashing it, just working a little harder, like going up a hill. The dash temperature gauge sits on its normal position, just above the centre mark. However, I have an HUD display plugged into the diagnostic port, and it shows the rising temperature. I have just put in a brand new radiator because it was leaking from a crack in the top tank, no difference. My original first thought was a crack in the head or block, but no sign of water in the oil, nor oil in the coolant, and I can't smell anything apart from antifreeze in the coolant, but that may not necessarily be correct, my sniffer may not be as good as it might be, at my age!. It looked clean when I drained it. My next thought was water pump, but it was changed 30,000 km ago, so it should be fine. Or a thermostat not opening fully, but that I haven't checked. .The fans are turning on at about 93 degrees. The strange thing is the different reading on the dash temperature gauge, although it appears to work fine up to that normal point.. Checking the actual water temperature suggests the HUD is reading correctly. Does anybody have any ideas? Thank you.

Howdy. The voltage in normal running has been slowly dropping over the last few months from about 14.3, now down to about 13.3 to 13.5 volts. Turning lights on and loading it up makes no difference. Battery voltage when not running is normal. It still has about 14.2 when first started, but drops as it warms up. Might this be the regulator on its way out, and can that be replaced, or is it likely the alternator itself is getting a bit ancient, like its owner? Is the regulator built-in to the alternator, or is it separate? Is it likely to completely clap out any time soon? How easy, or difficult, is it to replace? I haven't noticed any strange noises from it. Cheers, Keith.

Another update. I disconnected the battery for about an hour and a half to make sure there was absolutely no residual voltage, or anything else! Then reconnected and went for a 40km ride. (About 25 miles). Fuel consumption figures looked good, and when I got home, no smell, and exhaust pipes were a lot cleaner. So I cleaned them, then went for a 20km ride. Pipes as clean as a whistle. That was yesterday. Today I went to work this morning, and back this evening, About 40 km each way 6.4L/100km, 36.75 mpg US. 44.14 mpg Imperial. Mainly on motorways (Freeways) mainly about 80km/h, 50mph. and again pipes absolutely clean. I'm very happy with that. I have no idea what caused the problem, because the same tank of fuel was used all the time. Cheers.

Update. She appears to be running fine, and according to the fuel consumption figures etc, all is good, but she has to be still running a bit rich as the exhaust pipes are black, and there is still some smell, but I still don't have any codes from either of my OBDII checkers. I am going to try disconnecting the battery for a while in the hope that it might reset the computer, but I'm not gonna hold my breath!! Other than that, I don't know. Might have to bite the bullet and go and see Toyota.

She suddenly started idling very slow, and surging, When I got out and went around the back, the exhausts were emitting black smoke. When I got home, I left it overnight, and it seemed to be okay this morning, except possibly idling slightly high. This afternoon she was okay for a while, then started back with the surging and slow idle, At the lowest point, about 200 RPM the CHECK ENG message flashed on for a split second, Other than that, there are no warnings, and one of my OBDII sensors showed no codes. Haven't checked my other sensor yet, I'll do that tomorrow. At one stage I gave it heaps, and it appeared to be quite good for a while. When I got home, there was no smoke, but there was quite a smell. I've only just now thought , I wonder if the cats might smell through working hard because of how rich it was running, Could that be the case? Any thoughts, anyone? Thank you.

According to a video on "The other site" it appears they are vents for filtered air above the passengers. So that brings back the original question. Are there more speakers in the back, apart from the small ones in the leading edges of the rear doors, and the sub on the parcel shelf?

Hi Paul. It is the left side of the LS 460, looking towards the rear. The dark area on the right is the rear door, the dark area at the bottom is the rear window, both areas have the blinds up. The square area partly out of the photo at the top, is the drop down, lighted, vanity mirror, and the rectangle with grille above the grab handle, is the rear passenger ceiling aircon vent, and of course, the light on the left. That just leaves the "speaker cover" between the grab handle and the light. The sub is not in the pic, but would be below the pic, on the parcel shelf, with the air con/air filter vents each side of it, again not in the photo. The other side of the car is exactly the same in reverse. Does that all make sense?

Hi Trevor. The attached photo shows the "Speaker Grille" above rear passenger's head, if that's what it is. The ones on the parcel shelf are definitely part of the HVAC system because you can feel air going both ways, depending on settings, but there is no indication of air through these grilles. They do look like speakers, but there is very little depth in which to fit speakers. Cheers , Keith.

I have just bought a right hand drive 2006 LS460. A fairly basic model. The rear radio speakers. There are the small ones in the rear doors, presumably they are basically tweeters. Are there other speakers in the rear? There are a couple of areas in the roof above the passenger heads that might be speakers, or might be something to do with the HVAC system, plus a couple more areas on the rear parcel shelf, each side of the sub. Are any of these speakers, or are they all part of the HVAC? My rear door speakers work, but of course they aren't giving high quality sound, or volume. It's not a Mark Levinson! Cheers.

Hi all. On my 2004 LS430, I have discovered that the door/flap (I assume that's what it is) in the HVAC that changes position when you select Fresh or Recirculating, is apparently not moving. It stays on Recirc all the time. So there is no fresh/cool air coming in. Is this operated electrically, or by vacuum? All other controls appear to be working as they should. The button shows the lights as if it's okay. I assume that door is probably behind the radio area? How does one get at it? And is it likely to be just stuck, and needing to be freed up, or is it more likely to be "had it" and the door and/or motor need replacing? Any thoughts? Thanks. Cheers, Keith. P.S. I have since been doing a bit of checking. I've had the radio etc out, but there didn't look as if there was anything behind there. I also removed the lower panel beneath the fan unit, but couldn't specifically see anything. Then I had a thought, wonder if the door is electrically driven, and maybe I might be able to hear something, even if it was just a click. Turned on the ignition, and pushed the recirc/fresh button. Yes, there was a motor sound, could be heard going in both directions. That was down beside the fan unit, but couldn't actually see anything. So I'm wondering if maybe a rod, or cable, has come detached from the door or actuator, assuming that was the correct actuator motor I could hear. Keith.

Hi. My 2004 doesn't have a dipstick, so I was wondering how to check and/or replace fluid. Does it use the same fluid as my LS400s? Keith. Ah, just seen the answer on another post: 04-06 is sealed (Still has drain, overflow, and fill plugs on the transmission itself)

Hi. I don't know if you've found anything else but I'm using the following link for my 2004 LS430. And it's FREE! It's owners manual, rather than service manual, but may get something out of it. Keith. http://www.manualowl.com/a/Lexus/2004-LS%20430/Manual/3378

Today, I replaced the complete units in both driver side doors, on my 2004 LS430 facelift model, although I believe the replacements were out of a 2001. The front door lock actuator motor wasn't working, and that stuffs up the alarm system, central locking on all doors, remote control etc. However, the soft closer was working. The rear door soft closer wasn't working, although the central locking worked. So I bought both complete systems, second hand, from what we call a wrecker, or car dismantler. Total cost $150 NZ, which I thought was pretty good. Approx $120 US. All is working great now. Can someone tell me if the front brake pads are the same on 1999 LS400 and 2004 LS430? I was thinking of swapping them between cars, if they are the same. Both have 4 piston calipers, but I haven't yet compared the pads. Cheers, Keith.

Hi guys. My 1999 LS400 was taken through a car wash by the operators. They forgot to lower the aerial, and you can imagine the consequences! They are talking about fitting a complete new, generic, unit. Of course that wouldn't have the differing heights for different frequencies, but my main concern is the extra wiring etc the original probably has, that the new one wouldn't. I assume if there were wires no longer connected, it is possible it could affect the radio adversley. Would that be correct? And if they got something wrong, that could also be a problem. Like blowing the radio! I'm hoping they will allow me to obtain an OEM mast, but at $232 locally they may object. But it's better than $973 for the whole unit! Your thoughts?