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Micah.Berry last won the day on April 29 2017

Micah.Berry had the most liked content!

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About Micah.Berry

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  • Birthday 05/27/1974

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  • Lexus Model
    1999 LS400
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  1. I wish I could help more here, but from what I read - you sound like you're on the right track. Consider the transmission holds considerably more than 2 quarts, and with a drain/fill, you're only changing the portion that is in the drain pan, not the amount still in the transmission gears, tubes, torque converter, etc. You might think about changing again to get additional new fluid in. Also - are you using the correctly specified fluid?
  2. Did you happen to notice slow cranking of the starter motor when turning the key? That is an indication of a weak battery. My experience has been once a battery is unable to turn the starter, there are lots of clicks. I suppose it could occur just as your experience has indicated too. Did you ever get the master key from the dealer? Keep us posted.
  3. Good news on the battery. It's an easy swap. I bought the largest cold cranking amp battery I could find (a Diehard from Sears). My car will spend a week at a time at the airport during the winter months. Coming home to it and the battery has turned the starter every time, even on those really cold late nights (15 - 20 degrees F). I really can't be of help on the door handle; however, I would suspect you will want to remove the inside door panel, which is fairly easy to do. I *think* this will allow you easier access to the various cables and clips holding the door handle. There i
  4. Hmmm... Not sure how to fix that. The pics are on Photobucket, and I used direct links. I can copy the web address and paste it here? Micah Edit: I changed the privacy settings on the folder where the pictures are saved. It was set to 'private,' and I changed it to 'public'. Hopefully, you can see the pictures now.
  5. Consider measuring between two days where you do not drive the car. Measurement should be the same. If not, I'd wager it will be lower with the second reading due to a leak. If the reading is the same, then it's simply adjusting for proper damping for road and load conditions (like filling up the fuel tank with 100 pounds of fuel).
  6. A 1998 engine is an interference engine. Thus, if the belt breaks, the engine is toast, and you will have realized a net book value of $0. If I were in your shoes, I would get the belt replaced soon. You might find that you want to keep the car a little longer if there's nothing else wrong with it. A paid off car is a wonderful thing! I just sunk money into replacing shocks, upper control arms sway bar end links and repaired a couple holes in the exhaust pipes. It runs, sounds, and rides better than the nicer cars that I rent when I travel for work.
  7. Another update: I took my car to an exhaust shop in order to have the exhaust leak sourced and fixed. It is probably of use to state here that I have plugged the catalyic converter flanges with high temperature RTV sealant and then wrapped the edges with exhaust tape. It's NOT a pretty job, but there are no leaks at the cats. My car threw a P0430 or 0420 code (the one regarding cat efficiency). Running my hand close to the flanges, I could feel a lot of exhaust escaping from the lower cat flange. Anyway, the shop called back to say they saw my work, and if that's where the leak
  8. The two screws may not be brass, but they felt soft. Also of note - I had a very irratic idle when I reconnected the battery after having done some work to the car. The computer was gunning the throttle. Kind of like what they do before a race on a Fast and Furious movie. Adjusting this sensor brought the idle back in line and I set it back about 700 rpm again, which was as close to spec as I could get it.
  9. I had the exact same issues as your original post. The car performed beautifully otherwise, but would consistently idle at 400 rpm with the AC off and the lights off. With either the AC or the lights on the idle would be about 650 or so. I lived with this for several years. You can adjust the idle by moving a sensor at the front of the engine. Remove the engine cover Cover removed It's dusty - sorry! Go to the front of the engine. Where my Philips screwdriver is pointed towards is a sensor locked down by two brass screws. It
  10. And as I was re-reading my last post, I noted in my last post that the ride was a tad more firm. I wanted to point out that my original OEM shocks were pretty blown out. Meaning the car would bounce up and down when doing the 'bounce test' in the garage. When driving over smooth pavement, there were no huge issues, though once getting to about 75 mph, the damping was bad so vibrations were not being controlled. Once the wheels are properly balanced and aligned I will be quite happy. The car has now a VERY nice ride quality. Taking off from a stop, the front doesn't lift up (or the rea
  11. Mostly. The front end is SO much better now, even with the cheap Unity struts I put on. Surprisingly, the ride is quite good, just a tad more stiff than I remember when I got the car with 113k miles. I have an appointment to get the alignment tabs fixed at the beginning of next week (along with the exhaust leak), at which point it will get an alignment as well. For the rear, I got in touch with the company ( after my original post. They said they contacted the manufacturer, who said to remove the sway bar end links, which would lower the wheel assembly low enough so tha
  12. Thanks, Billy. I'm approaching your mileage. I replaced several components, and I would like to do the front lower control arms as well as a couple items in the back suspension. I'll be curious to know how your control arms hold up. In another thread, I mentioned I installed Moog upper control arms, sway bar end links, and sway bar bushings. I'm hoping for reasonable longevity out of them, doesn't have to be OEM longevity for me to be happy.
  13. I do lots of freeway driving. I have a 99 that gets 27 mpg at 75 mph. Combined city/highway is 21-22 for me. And I stuck a trailer hitch on it in order to tow a couple sport motorcycles on a light trailer (total trailer weight is approx. 1100 pounds) across the country. I get 21 mpg on the freeway, driving just under 70 mph towing two of my bikes at a time. The 98+ models have a 5 speed transmission, whereas prior models have a 4 speed. The 5 speed gets a bit better fuel economy. There are several factors that will affect fuel mileage as noted by Spartan above. The two that make
  14. To Billy's point, tighten your battery cables (or at least make sure they are tight). You could also check the voltage on the battery before starting the car. The voltage should be somewhere around 12.6-12.8 or so. Lastly, you could check the voltage as the car is being started. If the voltage drops to less than 10 or so volts, consider replacing your battery. Do you know your battery's age? They don't last forever. Also, do you have lots of corrosion on your battery terminals? This can keep the battery from making good contact with the terminals, inhibiting starting. Anyway, just
  15. This past weekend, I changed some suspension components. My car is a 1999 LS400. I changed out the shocks (utilizing 'quick struts'), upper control arms, strut bars, sway bar end links, and sway bar bushings. I also bought outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints; however, I did not install those because (frankly) I was really tired by the time I had installed everything else. I'll get to them later. The current lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends were replaced about 45k miles ago, so they shouldn't be terribly bad. The boots on both are in tact. Oh yes... Almost forgot, I got new
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