billydpowell

I need some help, on my 96LS, my AB light lights up at start (as always) then goes off... in about 10 to 20 minutes it will come on again, while I am driving, and stays on until I turn the motor off. It has been doing this for about a month... I dont know what (?) sensor or whatever causes the light to come on... can anyone help? what can I check?

I had not been in a van in several years, and I was really impressed with the ride, and the reviews I saw were all OK..... plus I can get a Shopsmith in the van standing up, and I had to lay it down in the 4runner, because of the opening area. just have to remove seats...

NO, but it is for sale, along with my 96 LS400... you need one?? SRK, yes I test drove it on smooth roads.... my boo boo. should have done more. My 78 year old body just cant take the bouncing around. and this van is really smooth..

That 4runner to haul my Shopsmiths around in, just rode too rough for my old body, so I bought a 2000 Sienna XLE to do it, and it rides like a car, you guys should have told me how rough they rode....

without seeing what you have boogered up, I cant say... but if you are lucky to find one in a salvage yard, do it, otherwise hello Lexus.. just a thought, why didnt you fix it while it was small??? didnt your momma tell you a stitch in time saves nine??

you better look behind those sneakie headrest flaps... at least my 95-99's had them.. never removed a 92

yank out the bottom, back has some screws hid behind headrest.. or search

good idea, let us know how it turns out.

only problem:, oil pressure light comes on for about a minute than goes off while driving ... How are you going to know at what oil pressure the light WOULD come on? It doesent seem to be a constant failure... guess I am not thinking right about this...

It is possible... sometimes while driving at highway speeds the oil is pumped up to the top of the engine, meaning the oil is low in the pan, and that would cause the light to come on... and then go off as the oil returns to the pan. I hope that is not your problem, because that would mean your engine has sludge in it..... removing the valve cover would show this...

here it is at work:

Yep, one local family for 10 years, they have 3 4runners, 2LS400, and a tundra.

I am buying it, waiting for the title to come in, probably tuesday, now I have to sell my 96... I am going to use the 4runner to haul shopsmith saws around, I buy/sell and repair them in my spare time... here is what they look like:

Hi, I am going to look at a 97 4runner this morning, 210k are these pretty good units?

AMEN to landar's quote..

mnesbit?????? what is all this talk, rotating the crank, rotating the cams?? I HOPE you have not ruined your engine..... you did not need to rotate ANYTHING. the crank should stay in position and the cams will move only 1/4 turn... IF you lined up the marks before removing the belt, all you needed to do was put the new one on and everything should be lined up.. dont you remember looking at my photos??

yes yes yes, do a search, this has been covered many many times, there is even a video of how to fix it.

when it happened to me, I just jiggled the steering wheel and it started right up. no panic...

your answer is yes..

I haven't seen anything on a 430.... so I dont know

good job Larry... Mike, align all your marks BEFORE you take the old belt off, THEN dont hardly move the cams when replacing the seals (the crank wont move) and make sure they are all lined up for the new belt, should look like the photo.

already answered. It is NOT a big deal on 90-97 engines, 98 & up YES... on the CAM seals (for old pros only). not the crank seal. with the belt off, the two cam pulleys have to be removed (one bolt each)

landar is right, any post that long, either you dont know how to explain it, or you have more wrong than I would know how to help you with..

It is NOT a big deal on 90-97 engines, 98 & up YES... on the CAM seals (for old pros only). not the crank seal. with the belt off, the two cam pulleys have to be removed (one bolt each) and you will need a puller to remove the crank pulley, then the seals are in plain site.. So, less than an hour to do it.. And there is no risk for us, we dont turn the cams more then a quarter turn and then just move them back to position (look at the driver side cam, it moved from 11 o'clock down to about 8 o'clock - just barely see the white alignment mark showing) and the second pic shows it turned back to position: good luck..