silvermate

if thats the case then nu finish definately isn't the product to use. there are many more higher quality waxes that will last a lot longer than that product if you just want your car to look good.....as well as bring out a better finish. but again, to all their own........everyone has their favorite wax, that in his/her oppinion is the best.......i do, we all do but that consumer reports deal, just compared off the shelf products, they left out a lot of other great products that are available from other sources... online ect....... but as stated in the other post if you aren't a detail enthusiast, (and there is nothing wrong with that) like stated above, people are busy, and one guy's hobby isn't the next guys hobby, peoples free time is precious nowadays, and very valuable but if you wax your car once a year or so (like most people), nu finish definately isn't at the top of the list for "the best" one product to use under those circumstances, but again that my oppinion.

could be your O2 sensor.

Silver LS, Black leather........blacked out windows....Chrome LS wheels.....

thats the real deal........... stunning

i was just refering to the bushings alone........not any other components......they are "relatively" inexpensive..... BTW, you do not need a machine shop to press them in.......there are many ways to DIY the bushings in and out..........ie......cut, heat to get them out.......you can use a rigid C-clamp or equivelant and plenty of grease to press them in its just amounts to how much time and or money you have, and/or willing to spend

your bushings are worn, or shot......very common problem, and relatively cheap to fix...especially if you diy

he's not a professional mechanic, just an enthusiast and an avid DIYer like most of us here.........its really just all personal preference on what parts to use. but yes he chose a really solid set up, can't go wrong with vitek and ngk if you have to ask what the rotors and caps are, and where they go, and plan on Diying, you need to do some studying for sure........ although its a very very simple procedure even for a novice with no mechanical skills ....although first time in there, and you don't know anything about engines it will take you a fair amount of time just to get all the covers off to access the engine. study some of his tutorials on his site, as well as our tutorials section in here, to get an idea of how our engines are layed out and accessable. the cap i'm refering to is the distributor cap that the spark plug wires connect to....... one plug wire end connects to the plugs, the other end to the dist. cap, over time these caps can develope cracks and such, allowing moisture to get in,, there for causing irratic idle, missing, ect........the rotor is inside the dist. cap, and is easily swapped out, once the cap is off...... there are many vaccuum lines on our engine, most of which are at the front, just check them for cracking, make sure they are connected tightly ect......over time these can get very brittle causing them to break, and not seal correctly resulting in poor idle and other problems.

i'll tell u the sweetest looking aftermarket wheels for the LS IMO are the Wald executive line.......those things are bad, check em out........they are very expensive though

black pearl package http://www.lextasy.com/lexus_black_pearl_e...m_1388_prd1.htm

ball joints, those tend to go bad with high mileage, and should be replaced

thats a solid set up.......those vitek wires are pretty much the best, you can go with NGK plugs, i go with Desno Iridium.....they are about the same quality though the rotors and cap from factory i beleive are denso, but the bosch replacements will work just fine, for cap and rotor its about 30 bucks. IMO i beleive you have a vaccuum leak somewhere......that alone will cause irratic idle.

those are CRAP........i bought one about 6 months ago, and it is the biggest joke, all they are are crappy quality rubber inserts coated in a "chrome" paint, you have to measure and cut them to fit........it was aweful quality and it started to chip and flake about 2 months after it was on, and the chrome paint started to rust....its a joke for sure....(i guess the joke was on me ) needless to say, i took it off, but you get what you pay for i think i paid like 20 bucks for it.....but it is the biggest rip off......the quality is just amazingly AWEFUL

ok i'll be very carefull never thought about downgrading the wheels and if the older gen wheels would fit on a newer Ls......i do know however that upgrading a older LS to newer LS wheels, all newer LS wheels will fit all older gens, bank on it......... anyway, i have to be careful, however whoever was wanting the chrome gen 2 16's here is a nice set i found on ebay, for what looks to be a great price, although there is a relative amount of time left. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

if you have the chrome grill tips.........the best way IMO to get them sparkling is mothers aluminum mag polish and a dremel tool with a polishing pad........its unbeleivable how this process make them so shiny. i do it about every 6 months or so.

just keep your grill and remove the chrome emblems and replace the it with the black pearl emblem package....... it will give you about the same look

that sounds wise to me. i agree, if the car doesn't feel 100% solid and you aren't 100% comfortable with it, i wouldn't by it either. i'm the same way if i'm not completely, in all aspects, sure about the car i won't buy it. there are many very clean Ls's out there, just be patient and the perfect one will come along for you to snag up good luck

there is an article about 7-8 rows down that asks this exact same question and was addressed with many replies, check it out

if you need new rotors, you might as well go with the drilled/slotted.....better performance, cooler brake temp.......and they look cool they are very reasonable on price which is a plus of course you will need new pads to go along with them as well.

uh ok whatever floats your boat :whistles:

those are nice, i had an Acure Vigor some years ago, it was a nice vehicle. the only thing i absolutely hate about honda/acura is the jerky transmition shifting, it is so annoying, not smooth at all..........thats one of the many things i love about my Lex, can't even feel the tranny shift. make sure the TB has been changed a couple of times in that thing, with that mileage....... those engines are very sensitive to that, and if the TB goes, the engine goes.

very very easy http://www.lexls.com/tuneup.html

cool, i'm sure they will look really clean on your car if not sell em on ebay, simple as that good luck

i don't know man, if you leather is ripped and torn up, then buy those seat covers i just listed for you, they are OE and would fit to perfection, and yes you can do it yourself with some tack spray. i don't know if it has clips or you need a upholstry staple gun or not. if the whole seat needs to be replaced, then you are gonna have to go that route, and expect to pay some serious $$$$

a guy on ebay sells the OE leather seat covers, they run about 600-800 dollars. let me try and find you a link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW these look to be going for pretty cheap http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

do you have 15" wheels? or later gen 16's? the standard tire for the LS 15's is 205 55 15 the standard tire for the LS 16's is 225 60 16