silvermate

ok gotcha..... yeah thats what i figured well i don't know i've been looking at different opitions.......she doesn't have a CD player, and to be honest its kinda getting annoying ........but u know me, i like the stock clean look, so i've put off adding an aftermarket HU... b/c of the cosmetic look but now i might, i mean that SFX setup dosens't look bad, and maybe i can cover it in woodgrain vinyl or something to match, i don't know yet........but i also don't want to lose my sub either. so we'll see....... in all reality i would like to just get an OE HU with a cd changer, and use plug and play method, but those dam* things are so expensive even know they are over a decade old.

hey 92, when u hooked up your alpine did you lose sound from the OE sub in the rear?

thats awesome, i've been searching for some time to try and find a couple of day a week job or weeknd job learing how to build engines.......just for my own good. hell, i'll even work for free.....there just isn't many places like that here in AR. i was trying to enroll in a performance engine building class at a local technical college, but they didn't offer it this or last semester. i'm gonna buy a hot rod soon (SS Camaro, WS6 Trans Am) and i want to be able to build a stroker motor (ground up) to put in it, i know some stuff, but bottom end is where i'm rough.. its kind of funny though that i'm in corporate marketing right now, suit and all, and i want to do is get my hands dirty and work on cars , its just all about doing what you like to do, and what you are passionate about, like a said b/f you only have one life to live.....so find out what makes you happy ya know..... <_< that would be a fun job for sure..... :D

i was just about to add this......nice work :D they have everything u need, harness, mounting bracket......everything u need.....and i believe its one of the only, if not the only ones available. cheap too

you just have to peel back the carpet to reveal the screws.........put an extension on your drill and let her rip, its easy

the sander has the safety plate though, built into it.....i guess u could take it off and get it to work the same as the 7424 but ordering the one from coastal too, u get a couple different counter weights, one pad, and the hook and loop backing pad you can also get the carrying case like i did for $20 extra to keep it all in. either which way you get it, its unbeleiveable the way you can make your cars paint look with one of those things.....i love it, don't know why i didn't get it sooner, although i've had it for some time. and once you get good at it and get the feel of her, its really unbeleiveable the things you can do with it.....ive taken out even 2000 grit wet sand marks with that thing. not a scratch, swirl, or cobweb on my paint now, its beautiful

yeah they are nasty, and i love sticking with OE wheels, i just think they look the best.....and those 18's are a really great design. almost as good as the ones we have. its gonna be probably some time though, cause as u nkow i ordered new tires for my 16" (be here tom.) and i don't want to turn around and do that again, like i did when i got my wheels that i have now, i bout new tires for my 15's and 2 weeks later sold the wheels and tires... but they will look good though.......

that chrystler 300C is sick man...... i want either a pearl white one or a silver one...not gonna get one, but my mom is, man they are sweet i just love the chopped windows, it would look really good with those colors and chrome wheels, with some black out window.....

Lowes doesn't carry the 7424, unless they just started too. i went there b/f i got mine to check it out and they didn't offer that model, they just had the sander with the safety plate on it. i had to order mine, but you could be right they might have it now

you might want to put a want add in the buy/sell forum.... they have those 17's and 18" LS430 wheels on ebay all day long, might want to check that i'm gonna get some of those new 18" LS430 wheels (5 spoke) and put em on mine in a short while as well, those are sick, i'm getting these right here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33749

yeah i definately beleive its the window track, it will come up with assistance, but i think its just stripping the gear out or not catching on the regulator track i'll get her fixed this weekend.... i'm still going to clean and adjust all my switches though. and replace the master switch, its just screwed up anyway. thanks for all the suggestions guys, i appreciate it. :D

actually the blove box light is very easy to change out......... just get a small flathead screwdriver, wrap it in a cloth towel (as to not damage) and pry out the whole light assembly (starting from the bottom) once out you can pop off the lense, once in the lens if off, take some needle nose pliyers and pull the bulb straight out. wrap a cloth around the plyers and get a grip on the new bulb and insert it in the housing....simple as that. it uses a small # 74 bulb....... you can get here.... http://autolumination.com/headlights.htm i did this not to long ago when i put all new plasma white bulbs in all my interior bulbs. its a breeze, its just kinda hard to get to. but if you do it as i stated above you will have no problem

if its a 3 year old battery, its just time for it to be replaced there could be another problem thats drawing charge out ie......glove box light on, an interior light that stays on, or if an aftermarket Cd player is installed, it could be hooked up wrong, and the Cd player is still drawing power even when the car is off.

man thats a hulluva drive buddy......but if u think its going to further your career, and you think its the right step, the go for it. but like everyone else said, your free time away from work is very important, i mean you only have one life to live........and free time for me anyway is pretty much the only thing that keeps me sain these days.... i'm sure you'll make a good descision, and good luck to you.

thanks Tex and Agent for the suggestions............ i'll try cleaning the connections, ajusting the gaps, as well as the springs on the switches, and i'll see if the window regulator is still on the track as it should be... after all that i should know what the problem is. <_< the window rolls up and down like normal it just won't go up all the way to close, it stops 2" b/f its all the way closed, but heck i don't know i'll just have to get in there and hook up a voltage tester and just see whats going on in there... anyway you look at it, none of my windows go up and down at the correct speed, so thats my project this weekend, i'll clean em all up and see what i can do..... it'll be fun anway. :P i might make a tutorial if i can get it fixed probalby need a new master switch though is what i'm thinking.....i've got a couple on my watch list on ebay, as well as i've contacted a couple of online Lexus part shops/salvage parts places for quotes

here is where i purchased mine........it was the best deal i could find at the time, there might be a better deal out there now, i don't know http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCar...e7b6+1102530203 but its really a great investment. you'll love it.

if you have done drum brakes you will have NO problem at all with disks, it looks easy and it is.... :D good luck with the squeel

well fellas my window has messed up on me, recently it has been kinda surging when i rolled it up .......and just this morning it is stuck about 2 inches from being all the way closed, and won't go all the way up, it will go back down and then back up to that 2 inch mark, but will not go past that........and when it reaches that point it makes a vibrating sound, (kind of like a cell phone on vibrate, sitting on your kitchen table or somthing) <_< anyway have any of you guys fixed this b/f, i haven't had a chance to get into the door/ or switch to see, since it just happend this morning, i'll probably have to fix it this weekend...... what am i going after here? 1)faulty switch? (clean connectors/replace) 2) Motor 3)window regulator to tell u the truth i think all of my windows are going out, they are starting to be really slow when i roll them up..and thats probabably the motor going out heck its 12 years old... what do you guys think the first plan of attack is?

i took the ole PC to my buddies alloy Acura wheels this weekend, they had some oxidation (kinda foggy look) to them, as well as just an overall dull look, anyway they came out great and really shiny afterwards. i don't know what kinda finish he had on the wheels, ie clear coat, they were just regular alloys like mine........... don't know if that would work for you or not, but u might can give it a shot, the PC makes my wheels look brand new, and protects them as well, pretty cool. <_<

you did the right thing...... :D if you are really sweating over the drug test go to GNC and get that gold stuff, (not sure what the name is) but it flushes your system out.....i've never used it, b/c i don't do drugs, but i've heard it works from a buddy who is the manager there, he said they sell a lot of that stuff........just a suggestion..... also drink lots of water.

make sure your oil level is up to snuff.....could be low on oil that tick is the lifters, you need a valve job (pretty expensive)....but it poses no real threat to the car, its just annoying. next oil change go with mobil 1 5-30w, that should help with the valve noise. when i switched to synthetic the ticking went away.. do a search on the tach deal, its been talked about b/f, actually it was just talked about the other day, there is a thread on the second page.

yeah it is a common problem with early LS.......since it is a pressureized system any leak or hole with cause overflow, or cause it to run a tick hot. check your hoses for leaks, as well as check the resevoir for any cracks. just leave the level a bit under the full mark, and you shouldn't have any problems mine used to do the same thing........ i went ahead and replaced the radiator cap with one of those presurized ones, fully flushed the coolant system and filled her back up with fresh coolant, and i went ahead and replaced the thermostat, and it hasn't done it since.....

i tell ya, a brake job on the LS is so simple to do, at the most it will take you an hour or so to it, takes me probably 30-45 mins for front pad replacment (but i've done it a couple of times....... you could really save some money DIY, but i guess it doesn't matter now since you already paid for it <_< ,,,,,but just for future reference we have tutorial on it, as well as Lexls has a really good one on his website as well, and you'll find you will never pay labor to have it done again.....its just soooo expensive for such a simple job...... but i understand with most people we are just so busy these days its hard to fit something like that in....... and as far as the pads are concerend, i personally don't even bother with those expensive OE pads, there is no need for it......i buy 30 dollar carbon metalic pads from autzone/pepboys, whatever,,,,they work perfect, i have never had ANY squeking whats so ever from those pads, NONE, no un-even wear, and they aren't any worse for your rotors, my rotors are perfectly straight, and in perfect condition, and i've always used those cheap pads, on all my cars........so its just a suggestion....i know most prefer OE pads, but in my experience they make no diference to me, work just the same, and they are a heck of a lot cheaper..... but in all seriousness, if you paid the Lexus Stealer for a brake job, and it squeeks you need to march back up there and tell them to redo your brake job......they shouldn't squeel at all...especailly after paying that much for a brake job

i'm trying to find a good deal on them as well.........we just added a new vendor to LOC, that we can get 10% off of parts (thats where i'm gonna order mine i think), think with the discount there are around 40 dollars inclucing shipping.....you have to be a LOC gold member though, and its worth it, we have a lot of discoundts now, and are adding more every week, if not for the discounts, just do it to support the club :D anyway, i've been checking ebay for a # of weeks trying to find a good deal on em....cheapest i've seen is around 50 dollars, and with not so good feedback, and rediculous shipping costs, 50 dollars isnt a bad price, but the shipping is redic...with that vendor its $18 dollars shipping, what a joke (it cost maybe 6 dollars in weight)......thats why i haven't pulled the trigger yet from ebay....... if you can't find them on ebay, they come up in differnt searches, try......lexus clear lights, lexus bumper lights, lexus clear sidemaker..ect...........you just kinda have to play around with the search terms...... don't put in LS in the search (nothing will come up) just try the ones above...... you can try these reputable sources for em, around 40-50 dollars or so www.lexuspros.com www.lextasy.com

i hear that, i love the way the car accelerates, at those speeds, ie......going 50-60mp and then putting the hammer down to pass ect......., these things get it boy... i think that is the real big noticable performance deal about the LS, (the acceleration in higher speeds and driving).....not really the 0-60 time but the 50-60 mph to 90 or so, these things will get it. you can really feel her pulling like a performance car in that situation. 23mpg is pretty good, i think i get i get around 25-27 mpg in highway conditions, but i just let the car drive itself, but i have complete all fresh ignition components and fluids and stuff, (makes a huge difference in MPG on the highway.