silvermate

don't you think you should have researched that a little b/f you threw down 37K i heard they are crap...and very overpriced IMO.......correct me if i am wrong

i can't say it enough..........do a search, you will find everything you need to know. Daizen bushings are probably what you are talking about; http://www.lexus-parts.com/partlist.asp?Su...D=85&ModelID=61 once again here is a list of Lexus online part dist..(we ought to compile all of these and make it a sticky) it gets asked over and over again http://www.irontoad.com/l_home.htm http://lexuspartsmall.com/ http://www.lexpartsonline.com/ http://www.lexus-parts.com/ http://www.autonetwork.org/ http://www.taprecycling.net/

everyone has their own method of doing things, you'll find one that works for you i wash with a micro-glove wash mit i dry with california waterblade and a micro chamois towel. whatever you use just make sure its clean, and the bucket you are using is clean and debris free. any high quality micro fiber prodcut will be just fine.

do a search under "trac light", it is a very common question, and has been addressed many many times

do a search at the bottom of the page all of these questions have been talked about and addressed many times

the gasket that you need comes with the thermostat, i did it last month. no need to put gasket sealant or anything else on there, just what comes with it. clean the housing and the area the gasket connects to though.

that looks like that tornado thing, thats no blower supercharger/turbo applications is forced induction, or the idea of forcing air into the engine i think that thing its just supposed to channel the incoming air in a specified pattern of some sort, there is no mechanical issue to the part, its just bended metel, and a joke at that what a rip off, although i thought about trying a similer product once, just for the heck of it.........i very seriously doubt it works, as like i said above it just directs the already incoming air into a different pattern, i don't see how that could help power/torque. or gas mileage, as its just using the regular incoming air

road salt SUCKS!!!!!!!!!! i hate it man, it just makes me cringe when i drive over it and i can hear it flying up all over the place in my wheel wells..........well straight to the car wash can't let that stuff sit in there, it will etch your paint like no tommorow

mud flaps on a lexus? thats hideous. but everyone has there own taste, heck whatever floats your boat.

you need to just purchase or download a wiring diagram for your year and model LS, it will tell you everything you need to know, as far as which wire runs and does what as well as what colors they are and will also come in handy down the raod, takes all the guess work out. and you don't want to be guessing when it comes to tapping OE wires thats for sure

yeah actually its kinda of common to have the temp gauges on an older LS read innacurate. heck its better a tick colder than a tick hotter, thats for sure..... as others have mentioned go ahead and change out the ole thermostat, it takes 15 mintues and the part is dirt cheap, and its just a good maintenence item to change anyway for the future

i've heard of LS's going 200K w/o tb change, i wouldn't reccomend that, but it happens, it is one of the major maintence items on our cars, that has to be done. if you have the funds go ahead and do it, sooner or later its gonna have to be done, 67K is a littl early IMO but its def. the best major preventitave maintenance you can do to you LS....... but of course the dealer is gonna tell u every little thing that needs to be fixed, to reem you outta money, and more than half the maintenence you can DIY. so take that into consideration. just take the covers off and inspect the belt, see what kinda condition the belt is in. check for fraying, cracks, and overall wear, usually they stand up pretty good, and are in relatively good shape after miles and miles of driving, its much more ridged than say a serp. belt. don't take it to the stealer, find yourself a good reputable certified independant Lexus mechanic to do it, that alone will shave 100's of the cost of the procedure

could be a number of things, as simple as a broken vaccum hose, to something more major like a bad MAF or even ECU ect..... as the symptons you are stating are common to a lot of different problem areas. do you have the check engine light on? i would just take it to your trusty mechanic and have him diagnose the problem, most good ones will give you a diagnostic for free....... then once he tells you the problem go from there ie......get the part yourself online (most of the time cheaper), and DIY

the only Master switches that are interchangeable for the Gen 1 LS is: 89-90 ES250 Master window switch part # 8482050010 the toyota camry switches as well as some of the es300 switches might look identical to the LS, but the plug in the back is not the same.

I really like em so far, i think i've had em on there for about 2-3 weeks or so i love the tread and sidewall patterns.. they are a pretty quiet tire as well, maybe a little more noisy than my dunlops on the highway,not really that noticeable, but they probably just need to be broken in a little they have AWESOME wet traction, i haven't broken the tires loose yet, and its been raining here since i've put them on, it has made me a lot more confident in driving in the rain now....... the dunlops always made me nervous in the rain, or they "kept me on my toes", so to speak, as they would break loose and i would get sideways quite frequently, so i'm really pleased with that aspect so far. they also have the "water channel" in the middle of them, that really helps. they dont' really seem to have that really "sticky" feel on dry pavement that my dunlops had, but they provide really good traction, so thats all that matters. all in all i'm really pleased with them so far.. I would definately buy them again... we'll see how they hold up

Agent (99lsguy) recently purchased those as well, and i beleive is really pleased with them. i was either going to go with those or the Falken's that i ended up getting. it was a coin flip, but i found a deal i couldn't pass up on the Falken's

sorry to come over the top of you, but........... <_< actually it is VERY common for a Gen 1 or GEN 2 LS caliper to lock up over the course of its long life........it is one of the more common problems on older LS's and once the caliper piston has seized up there is nothing you can do as far as lubrication or anything to free it, just needs to be rebuilt or replaced. actually the only mechanical problem i've ever had with my LS, besides a cracked and leaky vaccum hose, (knock on wood) is the front left caliper locking up on me.

i had the dunlop sp sports on too, they are very sticky on dry pavement, but i thought they were below par, in wet traction, i got sideways a lot getting on the throttle turning and merging, i just got the Falken Ziex ZE 512's 225/60/16 a couple of weeks ago, and i love em so far, tread pattern is cool, and they offer very good wet traction as well (its been raining here since i put them on) Tirerack is awesome, although they don't carry some really good brands, but they offer a heck of a deal, with cheap shipping too. there are many threads about reccomended tires, in the tire section, you might want to do a search. as most members have offered their oppions many times around here.

the Pc isn't a miracle worker, but its pretty close to it.......it absolutely blew me away when i used it on my car a couple of times. after some practice on a different car, i put her on mine. and i was thrilled. i am a 100% satisfied customer, with the know how and right products, as well as many hours of working it over, my paint on my 13 year old LS looks brand new, i'm not exagerating either, i got every swirl, cobweb, scratch, ect.........off my paint is crystal clear with NO blemishes whatsever after A LOT of thorough research i even tried my hand at wetsanding some deeper scratches and globby touchup paint........it came out great, the PC took all the wetsanding marks off, and you can't even tell, the scratches or globbs were ever there........... anyway, i'll stop rambling, but i suggest as many others do, if you are any kind of enthusiast and really care about the cosmetic looks of your paint, you need to get yourself a PC or equivelent. i'll say it time and time again.

if its just the toggle switches that the plastic ring that the metal rod runs through is broken off, i can tell u how to fix that for about 5 bucks just take the switch assembly apart, unscrewing the little phillips screws on the back of the unit then u will see a small metal rod that holds the toggle switches in place (it runs through small small plastic holes in the actual plastic switch) what happens is the plastic rings break, you need to fabricate a new ring to hold the rod in place you need to get a small electrical O-ring connector, take your wire cutters and snip off the wire connecting end, so all you are left with is the small metal O-ring from the connector.. after you have your ring, scuff up the plastic toggle switch where the broken off plastic ring was, clean it thoroughly, then mix up some JB weld and use it to connect your new metal O-ring to the assembly let dry, slide the rod back in..........and your all set.

here is a sight you can check out click on the WALD wheels, and WALD bodykits http://www.gablesmotoring.com/ if you are going for aftermarket wheels, WALD has some really gone looking ones have you seen the 5 spoke OE Chrome 430 18's? those are better looking than any aftermarket wheel IMO. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33749

here are a few good ones: http://www.irontoad.com/l_home.htm http://www.lexpartsonline.com/ http://lexuspartsmall.com/

there is no way you will get 31K for the car.......not saying it isn't worth that, i'm sure it is, but its not fair market value, and depreciation is a Bittch, you might see one listed for around that price, but not selling for anywhere near that. and i know a little about depreciation and fair market value, i had to sell my other halfs grandpa's "04 Vette, with 3K miles, that was purchased for around 52K, for 41K......i listed it for 49,500 on several reputable sights as well as in the paper, and did not get 1 hit on it,even know it was almost brand new, i mean for 49K you can pay 2-3K more and get a brand new C6, so i dropped the price to 42K and I let it go the next day for 41K cash......................... not that this pertains to your car, it is just a small example you can find 98-00 LS's with around 50-60K miles anywhere from 16-22K maybe a little more. a good selling price IMO would be around 25K for the car i mean its 6 years old now. good luck though

well i'll chime in, i'm no expert by any means but heck its an open forum.. i agree totally with Agent, those conditions are Really bad for chrome, (and everything else for that matter) road salt is nasty for your car......... but..........if you really want chrome rims, which personally i love......i would do exactly what Agent said, keep your rims now to use for winter driving, and floss the chrome ones in the spring/summer time, that method will def. keep them fresh for some time to come. thats what i'm gonna do in the near future. i'm keeping my non-chrome OE 16's for winter driving, and buying either chrome OE 430 18's or just buy my same wheels in chrome, to floss in spring/summer i think its a great method, might think its an expensive venture at first look, (depending on the set of wheels you are looking at), but a small investment if you look at it in terms of years to come pertaining to the look of your LS plus OE chrome LS wheels are the business!!!!!

it would first start with a new battery, its probably not holding a strong charge anymore...... cheapest and probably most common solution to your problem. replace + & - connecters with new ones, clean the battery cables as well as the terminals really good with battery cleaner and a steel brush. then go from there