daffy

Hi Exhaustgases, It's right below the accumulator for the traction control. Actually, the hose attaches to the accumulator. The whole unit is next to the brake booster. You have to pull off a plastic cover to see the accumulator. This hose has a higher pressure rating than the brake lines, I believe. That's why it's expensive. There's an electric motor that pressures the accumulator up to something like 3,000 psi or more. This is the usable pressure, that the traction control uses to apply the brakes to the rear wheels, as it needs it. I still don't know the secret to how to bleed this unit properly.Daffy

Hi Lander, Yes, this new dealership has really impressed me! I had just finished installing a new starter, timing belt and water pump before I took the car to them. They even noticed a coolant leak, and fixed that as well! I am now getting the front end repainted as there's lots of rock chips, and left front fender had some damage. The car should be good for another 5 years or so.... I also roamed around the new cars they had on display. Wish I was rich! I would have picked one out that day! Daffy

Hi, everyone, I just had to have my traction control working for upcoming winter, so I took it to a dealer. They gave me Lexus Rx350 SUV, while they worked on my car. I had the loaner for almost two weeks, as the dealer finally found the problem. It was the flexible high pressure hose that was weeping and possibly expanding (from age) just enough to trigger the traction light on my dash. I was pleasantly surprised that they only charged me $450. The high pressure hose was $98 alone. The traction light has not come on for two months now, so I am very happy! For the diy people, check this hose first! Daffy

Thanks Sha4000, It sounded funny starting up first time, I guess from lack of fuel in the fuel rails. Revved it a little, and it cleared up. Runs like new and the starter spins so fast now. Now, if I can only solve the Trac light issue. I need to find out the proper way to bleed the accumulator. Daffy

Hi everyone, I got my rebuilt starter back in my car and it works. What I did to speed up the process, I hacksaw a slot on the thread end of the bolts for the starter. So when I re-installed the new starter, I got the bolts started into the starter, then got a long screwdriver, and screwed the bolts until they tightened, from the starter side. Then I used the wrench to final tighten the starter. Saved a lot of time. So if I have to take the starter off next time, It will only take minutes instead of hours. I only used a wrench (bent) to tighten or loosen the bolts. Daffy

Hi, I am doing the starter right now and it's a horrible job, but doable. I think the starter could have been designed with the contacts on the outside of the engine, similar to the older Fords. The starter itself seems to last a very long time. Changing contacts is all that is needed most of the time. Daffy

Hi Daniel091 Doesn't look like there is any way to fix the trac lok accumulator. I have the manuals and all it says, when the accumulator is the problem, and bleeding doesn't solve the issue, then take accumulator out, and bleed off the pressure, then discard. Replace with new. I think there is an O-ring inside that needs to be replaced, and re-pressurized to 3000 psi? I also know someone in the UK does this for a fraction of the cost of a new one. So how come no one does it here? Daffy

So nobody in Canada or US repairs these accumulators? I have an extra one here, I might take it apart and install new seals and get it recharged. I need to know the proper pressure. 3000psi? Daffy

Hi Daniel091 I think you are probably right. I have had loose connections before. I sometimes use electrical spray cleaner and reconnect the connectors and that seems to help. Daffy.

Hi My trac lock light is back on. So the second accumulator is no good now. Same code #19. Must be the age thing. So now I wonder if anyone knows someone that can rebuild these accumulators? I don't really want to buy a used one and have it go in a short period of time knowing these accumulators only last so long. There is someone in the UK doing it. They replace the O ring and recharge the accumulator. I don't want to send it that far away.Thanks Daffy

Hi all, Just want to let you know that the traction control has been working great! Thanks for your input. Daffy

Hi Landar, Thanks for your input, and yes I have heard of this. I hope that isn't happening to me. I don't know what's going on, but I just took a 2 hour highway trip with my car and the "traction lock" light did not come on! The traction lock seems to be working like it should. My fingers are crossed! Daffy

Hi, Nope, that did not work! The trac light came back on. I think something else is going on. I have noticed when I lightly step on the brake pedal, the steering wheel has a tendency to turn to the left, ever so slightly. So I thought, maybe I have a front caliper starting to seize up on the left front corner. Since I have my old car still, I took out the left front caliper and replaced it on the car I am driving now. It is still doing the exact same thing. So it is the back left calliper that that may be seizing. So I am thinking, maybe this is what is causing the track light to come on? It maybe giving the same signal as a leak in the system, which is part of code 19, a leak in the system somewhere. When the weather warms up again, I will get the the back caliper from the old car and replace the faulty caliper. I can't believe I would have two bad calipers at almost the same time go bad. Daffy

Hi everyone, It got real warm here, +1 degrees Celsius, so I decided to take the accumulator out of the old car. I installed this accumulator today, and yes, it works! This is a great site, it has helped me before and will help me again, Thanks for all your input. Happy holidays! Daffy