99lsguy

Sounds like: a) Steering column is binding or B) Power Steering Gear assembly is failing I'll assume the tie rod bushings are good = did you replace those with the ball joints? You could check the brackets/grommets that hold the rack in place - if their worn and allowing movement then this could cause binding....... 99

I don't think I've ever seen 93 octane......... Our premium unleaded in KC is 91 octane.

You may have to go to Dealer. These electronic settings are called the C-Best Codes and perform a variety of diff. functions for the alarm, door locks, windows, etc...... Call the dealer first to confirm....they may just do it for free also. For example, you can press the "unlock" door buttton on your key and hold down for 1.5-2 seconds - this will automatically roll down the drivers' window also. It can be disabled if you want - all of these codes have different settings plus ON/OFF. 99

Here ya go silver.............. VBDenny has done the rear caliper (for sure) and has pics in the gallery and maybe look under "maintenance tutorials" 99 remo.pdf

Patience you must have, oh Padawon Learner :D Give Lexus a call to make sure it's on the way.........

Blake, Don't buy the owners manual!! Lexus will send you one free from their website....... look around a find "request new owners manual".....its there!

Just a couple of guesses........ I've heard the MAF needs to reset (disconnect battery) if you change filter type so it may take a tank or two... Also, if the fans are trying to keep engine cooler, that will cost you MPG. Did the mechanic fill the antifreeze up through the thottle body first, then top off in reservoir? Also, the car needs to be brought up to normal temp with the heater on 85 and reservoir cap off to release trapped air....then top off. Maybe its got some air trapped in it? Yes, use the pink toyota long life coolant!

Well, I've punched a screwdriver through the side before when I've had too. It's messy, and tear up the filter, but it works.......

I absolutely.........positively........... Use the torque wrench every time for oil change (and everything else) I've got 10-150 inch lbs...10-75 ft lbs....and 50-250 ft lbs wrenches: and they are used perfectly :D

Well said...... Or at least stand around and watch. And check the dipstick before you leave.... Any bets the oil drain plug was torqued to 29 ft lbs per specs........... <_<

oh yeah.... I had to submit a request for a new owners manual "at least twice" b4 I got one. Have request the "lexus magazine" several times and even called customer service three times to make sure I was on the list...... No magazine as of today.....it's been 5 months of calls, web, etc....nothing! My wife just gets me a copy from the American Airlines Admirals club.... :D

I just tried it over the weekend and couldn't get it to work either. I can log on and such, and the manual "sections" come up - but it just "hangs" after that. I have been on before.....maybe its just hosed for a bit...?

Gotcha, Mandingo, Another way is to "listen and count" the shifts as your start from dead stop. You should count "5" shifts for the "6 speed".

should be a 6 speed. my 99 LS has : low, 2,3,4 and D D is the "overdrive" - or 5th gear. All this stuff should be in the owners manual - the web area just needs an update I suppose <_<

My opinion is a 5-30W synthetic. Best for cold starts in winter and keeps engine cooler in summer; superior in all aspects to dino oil. That being said, dino oil is still good enough . Lots of guys with Gen I LS use Mobil One and change every 5K. Some will argue that heavier weight is better for older LS's; I think you can get 300K+ with dino oil....my 4 cylinder Hondas' always got to 225K before biting the dust......

If is does loosen (hopefully) with the lubrication; I'd tighten it back down to 13 ft. lbs, reoil and wait, then try to loosen again Man....be carefull with that one (I know you will)

SRK, What are your thoughts on Amsoils claims of 25K per interval with one filter change at 12.5K. They usually cite Diesel Tractors and even give examples of 400,000 miles while using "bypass filters" ...........

Hey guys, Saw this web sight. As an avid Amsoil Synthetic user, the test caught my attention. I know many of you use Mobil 1 so here's a technical analysis: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html The biggest point it makes is how well the oil will stand up with only a filter change and 'top off' the oil...and how little engine wear is after the 3k mark.

could be a fuel pressure problem see: 2 posts by CLACEY, feb 18th and another older one, the older one has lots of info on the cold fuel injector.... 99

yes, washers, gaskets, same thing.

Never heard of it......... can u put a link down?

It's in the latest issue of the LEXUS magazine......just a little write up though..

Yeah, all should com on...abs, vsc, engine, etc..... I've got about 4 on the left, 4 on the right, and the tach, speedometer,.... all of it!

Sounds like a deep scratch would require orbital buffer and then maybe spray some clearcoat back over the wheel? Or is it not that simple? I'm just asking in case I see this in a wheel..... Also, you recommend the portercable 7424 orbital polisher - in the detail store? I've got some other light scratches in a few places on the body I'm thinking of tackling this spring/summer......

Yes, yes; Definately the bolt drain only (that's what I mean by "pan drain") - don't go to any more trouble, a couple of those and your back in business :D