tansupplyman

If we are going this far: purge the air from the hose before connecting to the suction fitting. pierce the can, then just barely crack the valve and put your ear next to the end of the hose so as to hear the gas escaping; as the freon comes out, screw on the suction fitting. Charge to 30# suction pressure;Also, there is a sight glass on the rt side next to the rt side elec. fan[on the '93]; you charge until the bubbles are cleared up. Do not overcharge---expensive.

'93 has R-134a. If you are looking for info on R-12a; just type 'refrigerant R-12a' into google then you can find out the cost,requirements, procedures, where available, etc.

Several here with black cars have painted the bottom black; I changed mine from dull silver to gold. not just a simple spray job; all the 'plastic' panels on the sides have to come off. This so the new paint can go inside the closed doors at sill. Many of the fasteners will break--and they are fairly expensive--had $80+ on mine replaced. Assume '99 is similiar to '93 on this. I did not remove ft or rear bumpers to paint; you will need to remove panels at grill bottom(behind) so you can mask off the radiator fans, etc--but there again black is what they should be but not glossy. You will save much money if you will sand most of this first--I probably spent 3 days sanding--go down to about 260 grit; flat block all rock pits etc. Note that gloss black will show every defect and ripple.

Think you should pay someone to do this--am concerned that the car will fall down just balanced on jackstands; sorry, all these threads have made me nervous !!!!

WATCH HEAT !!! Caliper has rubber seals,etc. Also be careful on reinstallation, easy to cross-thread these--new ones are NOT AVAILABLE in the very fine thread at large nut-bolt houses--maybe at Lexus!!! Don't ask how I know this.

Yes, you probably do--but it only cost about $10. to turn one rotor. NOT at a dealer.

When you learn, ask around for other folks.

Yes---hard to relate to folks who are NOT DIY'ers. They are the ones who should NEVER----EVER----- let a car get out or warranty..... trade-trade--trade------- or PAY---PAY---PAY----- Read your earlier posts--hard to believe---WELL, maybe NOT...................it was a dealer, wasn't it?

Note that the A/C filters start at 1993 !!! Been lots said about it [or rather: these] in the past several months. For clarification; when you order the cabin filter, part # 88880-50010{$36. at irontoad.com}, you get TWO filters-both of them go in the car. Yes, they are more expensive than the Gen II+ "cloth" type. Below the glovebox door is a panel. There are 3 clips across the top, get a putty knife and pop these loose; remove the light by twisting, take off panel by pushing the whole thing forward and down. loosen the wing nuts(2) on the bottom of the unit, remove, pull one filter out, straight down then swing to the left; the other filter is in there toward the front. reach in and pull toward you. then pull down and out. Installation of new ones are in reverse of all this[but note: there are clips on the 3 extrusions for the top panel fastening; make sure the clips are slipped on them-sometimes they fall off]. Hopefully, this post will help the situation. The photo of both filters(old ones) is attached:

Remember the block drains above the motor mounts. Best done with a lift anyway.Think you need a swivel on a socket; search some on this site--did a post right after I did this. hook on a rubber hose anyway to keep the stuff from going 'all over' .

The rubber boots cover the CV joints. You don't break the rear axle, you break the CV joint. The unlubricated balls jam up in the sockets and fracture the sockets. If the molygrease has slung out you have to replace the boot, if torn; or repair whatever seal,etc. or you will pay the piper lots soon and you may be calling AAA and staying in a hotel !!!! [Am just making a point here for the masses !!!!] This has happened to me with a BMW-and they aint ft wheel drive; but, I was near home----thing is: the car will not move when it happens--sometimes it will not even roll.

ACF: Am aware of the forum name; however, you might wish checking out a late model Outback, an awesome car,can be had at reasonable prices, and super in the winter;also good mpg. You would have to check the interior size. Assume you are looking at value/$. And summer is the best time to look at these; daughter lives at Banner Elk[have 2 Outbacks] but had to make a deposit once one was received on trade-in, just to go see it at a dealer in Hickory. That is the demand in the winter.

Can't imagine why you would need a new evaporator in the first place--a hole??? that can be repaired?? Very unusual--these things just don't go bad!!!!! Condensers either for that matter. Have you put it on a 'junk' yard hotline for a used one from a wreck.... a used one is probably just as good as a new one???

Tex50-when you post the part #'s; advise how the car drove before the change and any sounds you heard, etc.: sometimes the suspension things are hard to figure out---like: "where is that 'pop' at", is it a bushing, bearing, strut, brake; left or right, etcetcetc. tks---

There is really no reason to do all that unless you have money to burn[and are going to turbocharge or something really special]. If you want some sound, unbolt your resonators and drive around some--only 4 small bolts hold these on and some rubber circles. You could make some pipes to take the place of the resonators--but this is really tricky--you need to cut off the flanges from the stock resn. to fit [and that would destroy them]; you would need to go to a muffler shop for all the bending to get the pipes to run out straight--and don't think you can do it yourself. You could come out with 3" chrome on each side. Note that you don't get that much sound--but enough to know you have a V-8. If you like the sound, then go to a muffler shop for the 2 pipes. The LS has 5 mufflers!!!!!! The resonators are not really resonators but mufflers; all kind of baffles !!!!!!! And they cost about $260. each !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

remove gas cap(depressure system) ; use plastic trash bag; undo fittings with hand encased in the bottom of the bag so as to use the bag to catch gas when it comes out. also, goggles. All this if you do yourself. OH, don't smoke !!!! :D

Comment: Seems the way to go on XM is with Delphi Roady; no removal, no installation, plug it into the rear lighter socket(or 'hard' wire if wanted), stick it in front of the shifter; no connections to the stock radio !!!!! Probably take all of 3 minutes. Am I missing something here?????? http://www.xmradio.com/roady/#

thread may interest you: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...hl=emblems&st=0

Take it to a alternator/starter repair place first. I had to have a new brush set and a new rotor because the slip rings were worn down too much. Cost was about $100. total. Note I took off and put back on. The new rotor was about $80. You may only need a brush set--these can be installed in about 4 minutes !!!!!!!

Great--welcome to THE forum. There should be lots of silver(chrome) emblems available by those replacing them over the years-don't think they would throw away. I have a 'dull' gold one !!!! Look on e-bay regularly: http://mpf-search.ebay.com/search/search.d...701277+29061098 might want to do a "search": 'gold emblems' & 'emblems' & 'logos',etc. to find those who have replaced their orig one ; then send them a PM(personal message) about their old one.

WELL, I just had to come out of the woodwork !!!!! This is all personal preference, you know----but I liked the GOLD emblems with my Pearl White LS so much that I painted the bottom GOLD and got rid of that ugly dull silver !!!!!! It also had gold pinstripes. Even replaced the dull trunk lid 'LEXUS' and 'LOGO" gold ones with new gold ones whenever the bottom was painted [the LS400 gold one was OK]. The car also had gold exhaust tips and antenna knob when I bought it (5 yrs) ago!! Don't have any 'professional' photos to attach, but be assured it looks good and there AINT another like it on the road !!! CHEERS------ :D Now if I only had a new gold logo for the grill and wheel caps to replace the dull ones I would be much happier!!!!!

I sure am getting confused about all this !!!! :o

Find a friend with a lift; send someone up !!!! SET side STOPS-safety. Get under it and listen closely; may also need a mech stethoscope.

Still say that you and everyone should get a clickable torque wrench; then you would know for sure what the torque was when he set it. Where I get my tires rotated etc, the workers think that 80 psi on the air line means 80 ft-lbs on the wrench----really. Don't know what they do for Ford 150's: 100'-#'s SITE: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...?itemnumber=239 anyway--youall have at it: 1/2"socket; 10-150 ft-lb clicker torque wrench in a special case==$9.99 I have been using one for probably 4 years [better than the bending beam torque wrench !!!

maybe your evaporator drain hose is stopped-up or restricted. Look see.