Jump to content


Regular Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by tansupplyman

  1. Follow up a year later: the chrome tape is still like new, no adhesion problems, or any problems with it. Just to advise since I started this post.
  2. This looks like a bargain purchase>>> >>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEXUS-LS400-NEW-RADIATOR-HOSES-Factory-reinforced-originals-1990-94-1UZFE-/180865853819?hash=item2a1c71e97b&item=180865853819&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
  3. I think I would pay $1000 for chrome wheels if I didn't have to change tires, balance, and all that stuff. I come from a chrome wheel family; even my '93 LS400 had factory Chrome on it and I never saw any others in the 12 years I had it. Painted wheels are CHEAP looking. I have painted WOOD wheels on my '31 Franklin !!!
  4. Follow up after 4 months: The tape I put on the grill is just as it was the first day I put it on. It has been thru many 'no-touch' spray car washes since then. There is no loss of adhesion anywhere nor any bubbles. SO, I can recommend, without reservation, this product for someone who wants a chrome-like grill on their ES350. There is enough tape on the roll for several friends 350s.
  5. for tires: balance by Hunter 9700 Road Force ; nothing else will do. Enter that into Google and look at the videos, etc.
  6. Comment on pro/con of these chips, etc. Thanks~~ Thought this would come up in forum search but nothing did. >>> http://www.gfchips.com/lexuses350.aspx
  7. I walked into that one !!! Shows you that I sure don't hang-out at a Lexus Dealer; all I see are photos. Well,since it is paint then it should be chrome tape--much better than paint--'plastic'~~~heck, folks are covering their entire front ends in the clear stuff for durability. But the silver looks to me better than the grey or is it gray (whatever) paint and bars APPEAR to look bigger in the photos; maybe it is the angles.
  8. Changed the top and bottom full-length bars from the tape to the chrome extruded pieces avail on eBay (had a set of LS400 unused). Worked fine; shapes at ends real well. Note that the grill kits will not fit well abuting the Lexus center logo; they are too thick and would stick up above the circle; the tape fits flat and it looks stock. I am extremely happy the way it did. Did anchor the outer ends of the tape with clear Goop under the grill surround edge as a safety measure. Now the 2008 looks almost like the later models which as I recall have chrome grill bars. The 2011 has even thicker chrome bars, so someone thinks chrome is the way to go. Have gone thru several power pressure car washes with out a problem, plus I have about 25+ feet left on the tape roll if I ever need more.
  9. I will be taking this off; not sticking good. Will be installing the Chrome strips avail. on eBay. Had bought strips for the LS400 but transmission went out and I had to buy the ES, so checked those and they will fit with several left over. Purchase was to replace the ones I had used for about 10 years sucessfully. SO: Do not use tape for this purpose. After 2 months of use and several power car washes the tape is still very good with NO problem. I did install the eBay strips on the continous top bar and bottom bar. I am extremely happy with the installation so my concern was for naught.
  10. Hold off until I test this for a while--I prefer a thicker mylar tape than I got; it is real thin. In mean time will look for thicker tape. Has anyone used the grill strips sold on eBay?? I used them on my old LS400 and they were super(lasted for years), but not sure how they would fit on the ES. Or if anyone knows of a source of a thick mylar chrome tape, send me a message.
  11. All it takes is 1/2" wide chrome tape (JCWhit) and a little time. 1st photo: stock 2nd photo: top two bars covered 3rd photo: Completed
  12. This is the photo of the SMART CARD KEY that is to be carried in the wallet to eliminate any worry; however it is not free !!! :)
  13. I check Sewell's website and verified that they sell a credit card key for the ES350: http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accessories-catalog/Keys/ES350-2008/2696.html If you buy from Sewell be sure to register to get discounted prices. The Key in the page above is the key referred to in the first post. Futher research did indeed find the SMART CARD KEY that is electronic and a "credit card" to be carried in the wallet(a super product). However, it is extremely expensive. Here is that page for a 2008 ES350. You will have to back-up for other years and models>>> http://lexus.sewellparts.com/accessories-catalog/Keys/ES350-2008/2689.html
  14. A Credit Card metal key for a Lexus is being sold by Sewell and others; goes in a credit card plastic holder I assume. Question: what is the purpose of this?? Infinity autos will start by inserting the metal key in a special place and then pushing the Start button. This in case you lose the Smart Key and have to fetch the spare "hidden" metal key to get home. Does the Lexus ES350 have this ?; perhaps the credit card key works like an Infinity on another model? Maybe I am phobic about being in the boonies,losing the smart key and all the metal key would do is allow me to get inside the car !! Don't believe Lexus has an automatic start OnStar service!! Anyone ever had to walk home? Am I pole vaulting over rat do?
  15. Wish a search here could have found this before I had to buy these plugs; it didn't(maybe I didn't know what name to search for). Anyway, I didn't have to paint pearl paint on them and that is why I bought these; the plugs(covers) are certainly a good and low cost fix. PS: I have had the car for 2 weeks; it was leased new for almost 3 years by the dealer I bought the car from. I suspect that the front tag holder was installed to advertise the dealership which is what it was doing when I bought the car after it was turned in. May be very common practice because there are many many Lexus cars here with the front holders and this is a NO FRONT TAG state !! But after all, the leased car belongs to the dealer!!
  16. Why put a front tag holder on a car going to a non-front-tag state ??? Seemingly, should be a dealer-installed item in a ft. tag-requiring state. Also police radar reflects from a flat surface; why not try to be stealth !! Key to this innovation is a JC Whitney box of Ford fender flare push fasteners, item # CPKAN922. The fasteners come in 4 colors and just happened to have 10 in white pearlexactly what I was looking for; these installed with silicone sealer/caulk. Photos below show steps to correct this 'problem'. Check it out. The inner two 'dents' were caused by the screws in the dealers ad plate being put on; screws were too long or something; hopefully, only the two outer holes would have to be covered on most !! EDIT: Was at dealers today; found out it was leased in NC but the leasor lived in VA, a 2 tag state. Guess live and learn ~~
  17. Did have a '93 LS400 until 7-20-11

  18. Crazy--I have been a member for 7 years and never had anyone NOT read what I wrote then got mad about not understanding it. Are drinks being served here? It is funny to witness naiveness. My first post stated that I had tint film on the inside of the windows. Is not that very clear here or what. Ok,RDM, WHERE IS THE QUESTION THAT YOU SAID I DIDN'T ANSWER????? There is NOT one !!!! Maybe you need to read this thread again before you get wound up not me. I answered your NON-question in the first post. I was attempting to clarify what I was asking because responses were as if things were unclear. How else could I state that the windows had to be removed to install the film. When I removed a door panel once{the car has 208,000 miles on it so I have had it awhile) I can see the bottom of the glass and there is no way to install without removal. Anyway, perhaps someone took all the glass out~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~BYE !!! el fin
  19. AGAIN: ALL the glass would have to be removed to install the film on ALL glass surfaces as it is on my car. Does everyone think a dealer would have done that !!!!! I don't. That is why I am trying to find out where the build sheet is located on the car; or how to get the 'bill of sale' etc with tinted windows listed as on the car. need info please
  20. "In-the-glass" tinted windows did not come on 1993 LS400; understand that was offered in 1995. After owning the car for many years, I got charged $10. extra (for the first time) for having tint film on the inside of car windows. This was obviously installed in Japan !!!! All the windows would have to be removed to install the film as it is installed: all the way to the side edges and bottom to metal; glass would have to be out of car to do this. Factory tint is allowed (North Carolina) but I have to prove it was done by the factory. Anyone run into this solution ??? USA cars used to have the 'build sheets' stuck in the rear seats or under front seats [Dodge had decals under hood listing options]. QUESTION: did Lexus do that and if so, where do you look??? Yes, I did not buy the car new but it is a local car. Will the SN tell me?? Where do you send it??? Many thanks---- need help on this just because it makes me mad !!! Richard
  21. might be a stupid response--but is your light dimmer turned up or does it work at all
  22. seems an excellent idea on the ScratchX on the plastic instrument panel[think that is what you did]--did it remove the scratches? tks
  23. Found this in my saved Lexus email-the links work: purportedly, the 'light-out' problem in cold weather only happens to Gen1 90~94. I believe yours is the first one we heard for a 98. for 90~94 models, the problem is a bad 50-cents capacitor (C212 16V/10uf) on the main circuit board inside instrument cluster. http://apaqdigital.com/ls400/instrument_circuit.jpg http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...mp;pagenumber=6 but more than likely the circuit board is different on 98 model, so contact the ebayer on this item: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2452608356 see whether they can handle a 98 LS400. they only charge $175. or check with Jim Walker using this form for help: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...E=4&MID=587 also found this: Hi Folks, been super busy in last couple of months, hardly had chances to visit the forum. hoped everyone had a wonderful x’mas and new year. I finally got a chance to tackle the fuel gauge problem on my 94 LS. before the fix, the fuel gauge needle could only go up to 1/3 max even tank was full. so I followed the instruction found here to replace C142/C147 electrolytic capacitors on the big circuit board inside instrument cluster. I’m happy to report it works like a charm! the fuel gauge is back to normal. *removing cluster and the 3 darn connectors of course, you must follow Jim Walker’s infamous procedure: http://www.lexusownersclub.com/Lexus_Circu...ard_Removal.pdf I found that the biggest pain in the butt was to disconnect 3 connectors (blue, white & orange) from the back of cluster so that you could take the entire cluster out of the car. on each connector, there is a latch to hold the connector tight in the socket. one will have to manage to press the latch inward and pull the connector out at the same time. it was much easier to say than getting it done because there is very little room behind the cluster and the connectors are pretty darn tight. you need to have lots of patience with very strong fingers too! *removing old capacitors when you have the bare circuit board on your bench, and begin to remove the bad C142/C147, DO NOT just pull the capacitors out. Be very careful not to damage the circuit trace surrounding them. the capacitor can is surface-mount on the component side of circuit board, and you can’t de-solder it from the bottom of circuit board. the two legs (+/- leads) are too short (entirely covered by the ‘can’) to be de-soldered underneath the capacitor can. What I did was to use a sharp nose pliers and ‘destroyed’/removed the capacitor can first, then the two leads were exposed to be de-soldered. *new capacitors the soldering work was not difficult to do, one just needs to use very fine soldering tip and keep your hand steady. the C147 is rated 50V/10uf, and C142 is 25V/4.7uf. however, I couldn’t find 25V/4.7uf at Radio Shack, so I used their 35V (max)/4.7uf, and it works! (note: the ‘V’ really stands for WVDC). pay attention to the orientation of +/- lead from capacitor can. usually, the ‘-‘ lead is aligned with white band on the capacity can. *my remaining issues: 1. oil level warning light is on despite engine oil is indeed at proper level. does anyone know which capacity is to control this warning light? in fact, does anyone have a circuit layout or wiring diagram for the instrument cluster? 2. the coolant temp gauge remains bad on my cluster. I believe it’s the needle itself, not any bad compoenent on circuit board. when I lift other 3 needles (fuel/rpm/tach) by finger and let go, they will return the lowest position immediately in smooth motion, but temp needle won’t do that, it just stuck, and the center dial is somewhat loose and non-responsive. does anyone know how to change out the needle/dial? -------------------- C.W. Lee, Atlanta GA also found this(all from my saved copy&paste emails-you tend to do that when servers fail): Hello Folks, I think I have an answer to the Instrument Cluster Light and fuel gauge problem on older LS400's. If you have the common problem with the instrument lights whereby they don't come on right away when you start the car in the morning when its cold .... then its probably an electrolytic capacitor located at C212 on the small PC board on the back of your instrument cluster. If you also have the common problem whereby your fuel gauge takes a long time to read the fuel level in your tank after starting your car in the morning and/or the reading is much lower than the true amount of gas in your tank, then its probably two electrolytic caps on the "Big" PC board on the back of your intrument cluster. One of the caps is located at C142 on the big board... and the other is located at .. C147 . The interesting thing is that these caps are all the same style. They are very small (Low quality) electrolytic caps. They are housed in little metal cans ... with very short leads .. although they are not true surface mount caps. I tested a bunch of caps on the small board and found that only this type of capacitor was disfunctional .... and interestingly enough .... all the caps of this style were bad on both boards ... (A total of 3) .... If you are scientifically inclined .. I need to warn you that these capacitors often do not "crap out" unless they are cold .... If you read the capacity at room temp they may or may not seem fine ... But when you put a chiller on them ... then the capacity reading starts to approach zero ... What you should do is replace them with better quality caps .... either bipolar ... or ceramic .... or titanium ... You can go higher in voltage and also higher in UF .. it doesn't matter ... except for maybe the one located at C142 ... I am not sure .. but this one may provide some kind of timing function ... the other two are clearly just filters .... (IE: for Ripple)... C142 (big Board) was 4.7 UF, 25V C147 (Also on the big board) was 10 UF, 50V C212 (Small Board) 10 UF, 16 V Now both problems are fixed .. LamSV was very helpful in getting me focused .... I would still be stuck without him ... Remember .. that you need to disconnect the battery before you start removing stuff .. and wait a couple of minutes ... I made the mistake of not doing this and my Airbag warning light would not go out ... So I removed the little light bulb that warns you ... I am not sure my airbags work after 10 years .. but my guess is .. they work or not ... regardless of whether there is a bulb in the warning light circuit ... This problem is very easy to fix for anybody comfortable around a soldering iron .. and much less expensive than having the dealer replace your boards ... (My cost was about $1 worth of parts versus $1200 if the dealer fixes it) .... the labor involved was mostly in removing than reinstalling the instrument cluster ... (About 1 hour) ... Replacing the 3 capacitors is about 45 minutes worth of work .... Best of luck to anyone with the problem ..... Cole
  24. Mine just went out on my 93 LS400 also[in the mornings]--I can't find the Cole fix--used to be photos, etc on this. can someone email to me also-or paste in a new post. having problems finding anything. Richard [tansupplyman]
  25. I have a BRAND NEW Lexus stainless EGR pipe and both end gaskets; These are still in the Toyota sealed wrappers. This is for a 1993 LS400. Contact me with PM if someone wants for 70% invoice. tks
  • Create New...