tansupplyman

Basically same as every car---just DON'T let the master cyl run out of fluid. need 2 people; 3 better[unless you have a 'sucker']~~~~~~~that is a MECHANICAL sucker; then you still don't let the fluid run out. If air gets in the ABS due to fluid run out--it is tough to get out.

For you guys wanting wide(4") white sidewalls radials see the following: Diamond Backs are much better than Coker !!!!! http://www.widewhitewalltires.com/

Also keep in mind about what baking soda does. Seems to me that you might have to go so far as pulling the front pass. seat up and pulling the carpet up as far as you can and do whatever you have to to the carpet. You probably have 'tons' of insulation there that might take months to dry out otherwise. have you drilled holes in the floor there?? Ask Ed McMahon about mold!!!!! Bad stuff-even for the dog.

try this thread on 2nd item: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=10735&hl=

I always thought a tensioner was 'self tightening'; suggest that you install a new belt; if that doesn't work you will have to install a new tensioner. If you think you have grease/oil on the pulleys, you may want to spray them with brake cleaner first.

I thought that after 167,000 it should be slightly redder !! :P

I just started last week with an oil change to drain and add 2 qts of type IV ; bought a case at a Toyota dealer so in 18,000mi I will have 12 fresh qts in[ was $3.95/qt.] Note I do know that I will be draining some of the new-don't go there. But if the existing fluid looks extremely dark or smells burnt--suggest to change all !!!

Guess mine just came off easier than yours seem to----yes, I would be hesitant also to pull that hard without lots of questions first. The other screw is probably just rusty on the back side--soak and try again--just don't strip the phillips. also suggest some Vaseline or white grease on the metal 'ball' of the running lite that snaps into the turn signal housing prior to reinstallation. Glad to hear that you are making progress~~~~~~~~~~ :P

YOU HAVE TO BE KIDDING !!!!! This light is close to being the simplest to change on the whole car !!!!!! You remove one screw on the bottom park lite, then pull it out; when it is out [ takes about 10 seconds !!]; that uncovers the screw on the outside edge of the turn signal. you remove that screw, then pull the light assy out; untwist the bulb and install a new one !!! and reinstall. You can do all of this[both lights] in less than 5 minutes or so. on the bulb--if you want brighter bulbs you can install 'Bright' bulbs they make for the 1156---they just have a slightly higher wattage: 35 vs stock 27. Not even sure you can get access to the rear of the lamps--if so, you would probably have to remove the engine bottom cover and the cover under and in front of the engine cover to get behind the bumper-and I am unsure about that--anyway---much much longer to do.

I am confused again !!! First of all isn't the bulb a plain ole # 1156 ???? When I got the clear lens for mine, the company also sent amber bulbs for these since the clear lexus bulbs would be illegal. You can see the amber bulbs on the atavar !!. The outside(parking) light assy has to come off first; then you take the inner turn signal assys off--they pull out--after the screws are removed. NOTE I said assys--the whole thing is pulled off not the lens !!!!! The bulb goes in from the back--twists in like the 1156 it is. At least the 1993 model is like that--would assume all gen 1 is the same{unless my brain is on another holiday--it goes on one every now and then} Think gen 2 is wedge bulbs but that is a guess.

I have sprayed my engines at a car wash every since there has been a car wash; 30 to 40 years [at least 3-4 times per year] and never never had a problem--oh, I did have to take the distributor cap off a Pinto once and dry it out. Use a car wash that has hot water coming out--better that way. And cover up some things--alt,fuse boxes, ---don't go crazy--use gunk before this. OR, never wash it--which ever you prefer. Anyway, I will continue this til the sun doesn't shine anymore.

Those who have cracks around the holes of their under-engine cover should get about 13 fender washers and a tube of 'GOOP'; glue 'excessively' the fender washers to the hole areas--bottom[outside] side---that way you will retain it. I had to, it also had cracks, and I still have it and it is doing just great. Suggest you take it COMPLETELY off to do oil changes---then you look and look and look for anything wrong, loose, dripping, etc-----how else can you know about all that stuff before something bad happens.

Why don't you get a $25. grill chrome kit on e-bay--I did and love it. No reason to pay $3.00 to do your emblems then pay $100-200. for someone to chrome the plastic grill- unless you were thinking billet. :P

Tennessee says < 35%.

pull toward center of car-2 pieces as I recall.

Don't sweat it. Sell it to someone else if that person does not want it. NC has had the sign off every since the new title form. you sign off on the mileage and any damage. Are you responsible for damage of speedometer errors before you bought the car !!! NOT if you sign off. Just sign it off and sell the car for what it is. I have sold several autos with the sign off--not because anything was amiss but because I didn't want to get sued for something I didn't do.

Not if you can see the engine light blink at you and can count!!!! Here is what the website said :: ""On pre-OBD II models, turn ignition to On, then use a jumper wire to connect terminals TE1 and El of the data link connector, located under the left hand side of the instrument panel. Codes are indicated by the number of flashes of the check engine warning light. Reading Trouble Codes If the ECU has detected a system malfunction, the check engine light will blink every .5 second. The first number of blinks will equal the first digit of a two digit diagnostic trouble code and after a 1.5 second pause, the second number of blinks will equal the second digit of same diagnostic trouble code. If there are two or more DTC's, there will be a 2.5 second pause between each. After all DTC's have been output there will be a 4.5 second pause and all DTC's will be repeated as long as the terminals TE1 and El of the data link connector are connected. In the event of two or more DTC's, indication will begin from smaller numbered code and continue in order to the larger. After all DTC have been recorded, remove jumper wire. Clearing Trouble Codes After service, the diagnostic trouble code or DTC's retained in the ECU memory must be cleared by remove the EFI fuse for approximately 10 seconds or more, depending on ambient temperature (the lower the temperature, the longer the fuse must be left out) with the ignition switch off. The OBD II scan tool has a feature to clear DTC's. Refer to the manufacturer's manual for procedures. DTC clearing can also be done by removing the battery ground cable, other memory systems (clock) will also be cleared. If the diagnostic trouble code is not cleared, it will be retained by the ECU and appear along with a new DTC in future trouble codes. If it is necessary to work on engine components requiring removal of the battery ground cable, confirm no DTC's are stored. After clearing codes, road test the vehicle to check that a normal operation. If the same diagnostic trouble code appears, the trouble has not been corrected. Without OBD2 [pre '96] 12 RPM Signal 13 RPM Signal 14 Ignition Signal 15 Ignition Signal 16 Electronically Controlled Transmission Control Signal 17 CMP No. 1 18 CMP No. 2 21 Main O2S & Heater Signal 22 ECT Sensor Signal 24 IAT Sensor Signal 25 Air–Fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction 26 Air–Fuel Ratio Rich Malfunction 27 Sub O2S Signal 28 Main O2S 29 Sub O2S 31 & 32 Air Flow Meter Signal 35 HAC/Barometric Pressure Sensor Signal 41 TP Sensor Signal 42 VSS Signal 43 Starter Signal 47 Sub TP Sensor 48 Secondary Injection System Malfunction 51 Switch Condition Signal 52 KS Signal 53 Knock Control Signal 55 KS Signal 70 EGR System Malfunction 71 EGR System Malfunction 78 Fuel Pump Control ""

DO NOT remove the drain plugs----or you will have ALL air in the engine!!!!! All else is correct. Am I reading this wrong??

can only come out there if it is too full. that is the level sensor for antifreeze. If engine was running hot, suppose it would come out there if it was not on tight before it cracked the pressure cap,also.

You could have the tires TRUED{shaved}; but you would have to rebalance. Sure should consider just the 2 front ones.They should have mentioned this where you got the tires balanced if it was that obvious; but perhaps they didn't have the equipment. This is generally old equipment; sometimes it is at old time dealers and truck tire dealers. Just make sure the tires are hot if you have done. I also "X" rotate to eliminate feathering.

Guess you could assume that if the 2001 Lexus is that good, then the 2004's must be super !!! Will it be 2007 before we find out ????? Think so, but I don't need to know before then anyway.

Also interesting is a thread I saw here today[i think] about the angles of the driveshaft getting out of spec if the motor,tranny, mounts go bad; I suppose due to the front getting lower. Never had heard of that before!!!!! Keep us all advised anyway.

you are correct on the leak repair; many of the a/c shops around here have been saying this so as to get more work I suppose; I have heard it for years. They started saying this in 1992 !!!!!! Sorry,forgot it wasn't so. Tks for the correction. Will go back and edit in case someone stops there.

Suppose one could do that with a $2000. recycler and a $200. sniffer; but think most of us have neither. 'recharge' in the initial post probably meant a slow 12 year leak-down[the '93 has never been touched in 166k and it still blows 35 degrees]. But if 'recharge' meant "totally out of R-12" then it is a different 'ball game'. I like to see a 30" vacuum held for 4 hours. REMEMBER, a CERTIFIED A/C Tech., can be fined $25,000.oo for not repairing a leak BEFORE recharging a system. Most of us are not certified. EDIT: NOTE THIS PARAGRAPH IS INCORRECT Sorry, go back to normal mode.

WOW--just went to your garage area !!! super mods. Would you believe I haven't taken a good pix of the car [and me with a 4 mpixel camera!!] Guess I can tomorrow. did find the one attached. Painted bottom gold('98 GS300-I think) to match the gold logos and stripes--but then I had to buy several new logos to make look NEW. Still need[want] a new one for the front. also have a 'LS400' logo at rear--also have gold Lexus exhaust pipes, and antenna nut--goes well with the pearl white[i think]; and the gold bottom ties every thing together--also don't meet myself. Now then, if I had your wheels,WU !!!!! The chrome grill cost all of $25. and I love it. It is the strips that you put on over your grill. e-bay special--guy's location is Canada--sells for all models. Clear park lites also cost $25 and I love them !!!! best $50 I have ever spent.