tansupplyman

type 'xm radio' in Search.

If you can't possibly find it, you may want to check into these items[or similiar]. http://www.tapeease.com/peel_&_stick_decor...rative_trim.htm

Wouldn't drive a Lexus without a Valantine One and a Phazer(lazer jammer).

Certainly sounds to me that the collision caused the radio problem--they are real sensitive you know!!!!!! Sure the problem did not exist before the collision. :P Insurance does cover things like that; my CD changer was changed after my rear-ender!!!

I did the cover on pg 21 in the gallery--it was easy and protects the alt. Suggest you change the brush set if you have it off. Go to any alternator/starter shop--they can change these within 5 minutes--wait on it!!! Also I changed the power steering pump a couple of weeks ago. go to AutoZone--about $104. no problem on that either[but I have a lift in the garage!] type both items in 'search' to get past posts[set at 365 days].

Following is response I received after query: "Dear Buyer, The price of $169.00 includes four rotors that are cross-drilled, slotted, and zinc plated silver. Please reply if you wish to purchase these items. The cost of shipping could be calculated near the end of the listing. For Further information or questions, please call us at 714-554-6162. Thank you. Best Regards, Dan Nguyen General Manager R1 Concepts P.S. Please visit our Ebay Store at http://www.stores.ebay.com/R1Concepts. Thank you. " Does anyone know anything about them? Tks.

The price must be correct based on the seller's listings !!!!! They have 195 sets of these rotors listed on e-bay for all types of makes--BMW 740, etc, etc. and the prices are still approx $150 - $200 for ALL four !!! Surely someone here has bought these and can advise!!??? :o

Subject rotors are being sold on E-bay[by dealers?] that are relatively inexpensive( Buy Now: 4 for $169.); ie: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33564 Has anyone on the forum purchased these (or from anyone else on e-bay)??? Curious to know if these are OEM spec. and experience anyone would share. TKS.

Most of the time a pickle fork will destroy the tie rod rubber seal but you can use if these are to be replaced. Here is a link for polyurethene bushings FYI: http://www.daizensporttuning.com/products/...m_bushings.html

NOTE: be sure to check the wattage on the PIAA bulbs--mine are 18 watt and I believe that will too hot for your application. I would have preferred lower but where I got them did not list any wattages so I didn't know until I got them what it was--still only 1.25 amps but the lens are warm. You do not have as much clearance between the bulb and the lens as I do on the GEN 1 sidelite. At least that was my observation when I looked at a '98 in the parking lot the other day.

You will be happy with the PIAA lites--did you see mine in the gallery page 26? difference between stock and the PIAA--and I have artificial HID's.

Check on bulb # 148; it is 5 watts and think it comes in 7 watt. It is the stock bulb for sidelites,lic plate, etc on the Gen 1[but of course not 'orange' in original use]. It is what I used yesterday in my clear ft bumper lite[side] conversion yesterday-the turnsignal uses #1156. These were all 'orange'--DOT req--but you are not under DOT on the one you are doing since you already have a amber(may be the correct word) side lite.

Got a NEW '93 Owners Manual today from Lexus.com (just register w/vin; and request) within about 4 days after the request.........sure is pretty. And FREE!!!! Tks, Steve, for advising 'bout this.

Cole's response----this is due to Curt Oberg saving it B4/crash !!!!!!! TKs again, Curt. Now guys, copy & paste whereever you want just in case. New Club Member Group: Members Posts: 9 Member No.: 4595 Joined: 22-October 03 Location: SUNNYVALE, CALIFORNIA Referrals: 0 Referred by: N/A Hello Folks, I think I have an answer to the Instrument Cluster Light and fuel gauge problem on older LS400's. If you have the common problem with the instrument lights whereby they don't come on right away when you start the car in the morning when its cold .... then its probably an electrolytic capacitor located at C212 on the small PC board on the back of your instrument cluster. If you also have the common problem whereby your fuel gauge takes a long time to read the fuel level in your tank after starting your car in the morning and/or the reading is much lower than the true amount of gas in your tank, then its probably two electrolytic caps on the "Big" PC board on the back of your intrument cluster. One of the caps is located at C142 on the big board... and the other is located at .. C147 . The interesting thing is that these caps are all the same style. They are very small (Low quality) electrolytic caps. They are housed in little metal cans ... with very short leads .. although they are not true surface mount caps. I tested a bunch of caps on the small board and found that only this type of capacitor was disfunctional .... and interestingly enough .... all the caps of this style were bad on both boards ... (A total of 3) .... If you are scientifically inclined .. I need to warn you that these capacitors often do not "crap out" unless they are cold .... If you read the capacity at room temp they may or may not seem fine ... But when you put a chiller on them ... then the capacity reading starts to approach zero ... What you should do is replace them with better quality caps .... either bipolar ... or ceramic .... or titanium ... You can go higher in voltage and also higher in UF .. it doesn't matter ... except for maybe the one located at C142 ... I am not sure .. but this one may provide some kind of timing function ... the other two are clearly just filters .... (IE: for Ripple)... C142 (big Board) was 4.7 UF, 25V C147 (Also on the big board) was 10 UF, 50V C212 (Small Board) 10 UF, 16 V Now both problems are fixed .. LamSV was very helpful in getting me focused .... I would still be stuck without him ... Remember .. that you need to disconnect the battery before you start removing stuff .. and wait a couple of minutes ... I made the mistake of not doing this and my Airbag warning light would not go out ... So I removed the little light bulb that warns you ... I am not sure my airbags work after 10 years .. but my guess is .. they work or not ... regardless of whether there is a bulb in the warning light circuit ... This problem is very easy to fix for anybody comfortable around a soldering iron .. and much less expensive than having the dealer replace your boards ... (My cost was about $1 worth of parts versus $1200 if the dealer fixes it) .... the labor involved was mostly in removing than reinstalling the instrument cluster ... (About 1 hour) ... Replacing the 3 capacitors is about 45 minutes worth of work .... Best of luck to anyone with the problem ..... Cole

Many times members DO NOT know the year of the car someone may be asking about. Albeit not many, but there are differences between years. Responses to querys can be correct for a certain year but may not be applicable to the car being asked about. Many have the year as part of their forum name; for others, already a part of the forum, a simple addition in their profile can place the year in the signature that shows with each post. Am I overly 'uptite' about this??---not really, but think it would save misreferenced 'fixes' and many posts within a topic just to get to the bottom line: What year car are you talking about?????? ;)

just type 'clay bar' in Google and you will find out all you ever wanted to know about them.

Zdeno, don't know if you have done the drain yet, it not ,here is more verbage. Take the bottom cover off(10mm); the drains on the engine[one on each side] are accessable between the track bar entensions and the aluminum subframe. The 10mm bolt heads are brass---use a ratchet with about 12" of extensions; also you will need approx. 24" of 3/8" ID hose. Put the hose on the outlet extension next to the bolt head and direct into a container. DO NOT take the bolt out; after turning a few turns the coolent will flow out of the hose. flows for about 15 min per side. remember to take off the cap or disconnect the rad hose connecting to the thermostat housing,--might want to open the air relief on top of the thermostat housing. of course, the radiator drain is very obvious !! good luck.

Craig--I left that 'open' for someone else.. .. Now that you are considering it, could someone explain it in maybe some other terms. I have just grabbed a blade with both hands and twisted it so the blade would 'laydown'inhe 'hopping' direction.

Are the blades 'hopping' in one direction ?????? That is what makes the most noise and may be what they are doing. This is caused by the blade not pivoting all the way on a wipe stroke. If so, you will need to note which way the blades are hopping, then park the blades all the way to the left on the windshield. With a cresent wrench adjusted for the thickness of the arm, twist the arm so that the blade will be in a flipped position to wipe the way it wasn't wiping. Note that this adjustment shouldn't be so much as to cause the blade to hop in the other direction. If you don't understand all this, wait until other posts explain it better; or you are clearer on exactly the noise is. I have the same problem at times and will look at the new teflon blades next which may solve this problem-but am not sure if the teflon is new blade inserts(20 & 16") or you have to get the whole assy.[ inserts and the metal holders]??? Think my problem is caused also by the pitted windshield causing a drag for the blades at 'low' rain quantities.

Look in the gallery pages 18 and 19 to see all the VMF pixs of the timing belt change and comments.

Meist: assume you looked at photos in gallery #26. The bulb I used is a 194 (wedge) !!!!! You said you couldn't find these----you WILL not find at Autozone, etc. ; they don't deal with this kind of thing. Got mine at following site:(copy & paste). might go to Google and enter Xenon bulbs if you can't find here. BUT you will have to look close(maybe even call)--I do NOT recommend what I bought for your application---the housing is not deep enought on a '98 to handle 18watts--look for a bulb less than 10 watts in a Xenon. Note sidelights are different than parking lites--Fed DOT requires a yellow ft. sidelight. http://store.autotoys.com/cgi-bin/wfp53024...t/catalogs/1935

Guys--shouldn't he use a Meguiar's Clay Bar w/ Meguiar's Detail Spray first [ACCORDING to the directions]. He can rub the paint with his fingers and if it feels 'rough' then I think he should clay bar first.

Had mentioned the original YELLOWISH stock parking light bulbs. Posted photos of a stock one and one of the PIAA Xenon White bulbs I installed; in Gallery #26. You WILL NOT believe the difference in appearance !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Addendum: While using the Stoner's for the first time---I CLEANED the inside of the moon roof. This may not sound unusual however it is the only time I have ever cleaned it--in 4 + years !!!!! Don't really use it that much and really never thought of it. SO--when have you cleaned yours ?????? There may be some 'fogged-up' ones out there !!!!!!!

Saw the caps--but thought the thread was just about the plastic gold logo inserts, since they weren't in the gold package bought on e-bay. I would be interested in just these also, but I think the only way they can be had is within the total gold package(or at least was). If you see these anywhere, advise----mine are dullish !!!! tks----