Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


Regular Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • MSN
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Lexus Model
    '92 LS400

mejojo's Achievements


Proficient (10/14)

  • Conversation Starter
  • First Post
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. Fuel Filter? How many miles? Any record of filter having been changed? When it runs, will it accelerate? Joe
  2. I would think your issue is the "Fan Bracket" and not anything to do with the fan/clutch. It's the metal body that holds the bearing. It's quite simple to replace, really. The only nasty part I recall was that I (for simplicity's sake) bent a part of the lower cover of the passenger-side distributor cover rather than remove all the stuff to get to it. Probably a more elegant way to get that done. Search for "Fan Bracket".
  3. Follow-up on mine...I had replaced a very bad plug and the car seemed to run well, but occasionally I would still get a hiccup going up an incline, so I guess I had another plug that would only fail every once in a while. So yesterday I replaced all the plugs with NGK Ix "Laser Iridium" (online order from Kragen for store pickup with 15% online discount code ONLINESAVE15) and it feels very good so far. I don't know what's up with those Bosch's, but I'm sorry I ever bought them. On the positive side, I can now do all 8 plugs in 1:15. Another task I took on was the "ears" on my fan shroud that allow bolting to hold it in place had broken. I bought some 2-part epoxy and glued everything back together and it seems to be working so far. Joe
  4. What I did was to disconnect one coil at a time to see if it idled better on one set of 4 than the other set of 4. Once I knew which distributor was feeding the "poison" cylinder(s), I took one cylinder out at a time to see if it idled more smoothly without "this one" or "that one". That got me down to one bad cylinder, and I swapped the plug and it was much better. I can only recommend to not use Bosch Platinums...for whatever reason they didn't serve me well. Joe
  5. Well, my issue turned out to be just a spark plug that would misfire about 5-10% of the time. In all my years I can say I've never had (until now) a spark plug fail on me. This must have just been a bum Bosch Platinum. Sorry to throw in here with one that turned out to be so easy, but I have had this sucker "down" for weeks trying to get it solved, thinking it had to be something else. Sorry to have butted into the thread...and BEST of luck with yours. I'll check back to see how you've come out. Joe
  6. 1) I find dealer service departments to be lackluster, at best...ask me to tell you my Volvo story some time. 2) As I said in my recent post in this thread: I gave up and took it to Lexus dealer and they said that they could not diagnose it since I had aftermarket ignition parts (dist cap, wires, even the Bosch Platinum plugs would not allow them to proceed with diagnosis!!!.. Is this complete BULL or do they all say this?) Joe
  7. I did some more tests...I disconnected the pax side coil wire and the engine idled inconsistently, just as it does when that coil is hooked up, (except on 4 cylinders.) I reconnected that coil. I disconnected the driver's side coil and the engine idled quite evenly (though clearly on 4 cylinders). Going further, I reconnected the coil and unplugged one spark plug wire at a time from the driver's distributor. When I disconnected the plug nearest the driver (is that #1?), the engine idled evenly, though clearly not on 8 jumping. Reconnecting that one, and back to jumpy idle. This tells me (correct me if you have other ideas) that I have a bad (in order of suspicion): 1) distributor cap 2) plug wire 3) spark plug The plugs are Bosch Platinum. The wires and dist are Autozone...(Duralast?) and all were replaced 20,000 miles ago. If I had the energy right now to disconnect and reconnect the intake stuff, I'd go switch the plug wire with the another one as long to see if the problem follows the wire, but I don't so I'm not going to try that today. I'd really like to get the shield off that's at the bottom half of the distributor cap, but I can only locate 2 or 3 of the necessary bolts. Is there a picture to help locate the bolts that aren't really visible? Joe
  8. I have an active problem that sounds very much like yours. I gave up and took it to Lexus dealer and they said that they could not diagnose it since I had aftermarket ignition parts (dist cap, wires, even the Bosch Platinum plugs would not allow them to proceed with diagnosis!!!.. Is this complete BULL or do they all say this?) Mine started out with an occasional hiccup when going up an incline in cruise would burp once and all would be fine. A few weeks ago, (coincidentally?) a day after having to replace the accessory belt, the rough running sounds very much like yours, EXCEPT that when I step on the gas there is lots of power and the roughness is gone/hidden. The worst roughness is when idling in gear and all the way up to 60 in cruise control. It is drivable but I don't really want to drive anyone else in the car that way. I am at a loss and don't know where to go short of putting in $300-$400 worth of Lexus OEM ignition parts and taking it back to the dealer. Joe
  9. One other thing....I disconnected a plug wire for testing, and the coil pack arcs over to a small metal pipe coming from the coolant overflow tank. I realize I am giving the spark no path to the plug at that point, but should the coil wire head ever allow an arc out of it, or do I have a bad coil wire? Joe
  10. I did...a very easy 20 minute job. Hardest part was getting out the stripped off piece that was wrapped/tied around the fan hub. Joe
  11. When you say "only get sound from left rear speaker", does that really mean no woofer, no right side, no nothing? Or are you saying that you can't hear anything from the left front? I recently had to replace the 2 (front & back) left door speakers in my '92 that has the Nakamichi system. Joe
  12. 92 LS400, 218,000 miles. A long-ways strip came off the accessory belt....meaning most of the belt was still functioning, except an edge strip which came off and wrapped around the fan hub and also was hitting stuff as it was going around. The belt is all taken care of, but the car runs rough now. With the car in gear, reverse most pronounced, the engine idles rough at around 600 but it quickly surges up maybe 50 RPM and back to 600....just rough running. I can drive the car to get me from here to there, but it is not very pleasant as it seems to "miss" all the time. If I floor it, there is plenty of power. Is there anything you can think of (sensor wire, etc.) that may have been damaged around the accessory belt path that might cause this behavior? CEL light bulb is verified functional, but is not on. Ideas? Joe
  13. I changed my factory plugs at 200K, and only because I had to get in there anyway to do some other work. I posted pictures of the plugs here...they looked pretty darned good. 23MPG before and 23MPG after changing the plugs, rotors, caps, wires. Joe Picture here:
  14. Be aware you might find getting the alternator out and in can be tight, tricky, frustrating and time-consuming. Perhaps an experienced mechanic knows exactly the best way to turn it for it to come right out, but I did not find it easy. Joe
  15. I did plugs, points, rotors, wires at 200,000 (was all original up to that point). When it kicks, it's not doing any shifting. I'd expect a fouled plug to give more frequent poor behavior. Joe
  • Create New...