obergc

Well guys, been the proud owner of a 93LS for 3 years now. A very nice 93 with 105,000 miles. All the normal problems have been repaired, including instrument cluster, lower ball joints, power steering pump, alternator, TB, new ignition wiring set, plugs, rotors and caps, throttle body spotless, no fluid losses, new set of Michelin V rated tires and ran so smoothly you couldn't tell the engine was running at a stop unless you looked at the tach. Last night, the wife, was pulling into our driveway and was applying the brake when her foot slipped off the right side of the brake pedal when she was about 10 feet away from a small live oak tree next to our driveway. When her foot slipped off the brake pedal, it naturally hit the accelerator and the car accelerated into the tree trunk, about in the middle of the bumper. Haven't told the insurance company yet but I feel they are probably going to total out the car which will be a shame. Needs a new bumper assy, hood, grill, radiator, radiator supports, 2 new fans at front of condenser and fan blades on engine side of radiator. Haven't had any luck at finding body parts from TAP or similar salvage yards. If I could find the parts I would be tempted to do the repairs myself since most of the damaged parts are simply bolt ons. Sitting here quietly weeping in NW Florida.

Most likely bad sparkplug wiring

for a 93 LS, code 12 is a problem with either the crankshaft position sensor or one of the two camshaft position sensors. You might check to make sure everythings plugged in good.

This is the schematic for the USA Lexus, no daytime running lights for a 93LS. Might be the same as yours.

No special tools required.

I had some foreign object that was rubbing against the blower squirrel cage fan blades. It was intermittent and would come and go. One day it caught on one of the blades and broke one of the blades off. The motor does drop out the bottom of the evaporator, it's a little awkward getting the screws out but possible. There is a metal rod that attaches to a nylon linkage at the right, rear side of the blower motor that operates one of the doors in the evaporator enclosure and it is a little difficult to get off and reconnecting it is even more difficult. I bought a replacement plastic fan from http://www.lexus-parts.com/ for a total of $26.24 including shipping. Be prepared to spend about half a day on doing the repair the first time, it won't take as long the second time once you know how to get at everything. I think you can get leaves, or other debris in the blower area through the screened air intake area in front of the windshield if you're not careful.

I have a set of Michelin® Energy™ MXV4® Plus XSE® - P225/60R16 97V that I bought from SAMS Club for $600. I live in Florida so no snow or ice driving, lots of rain. They're ok but the quietness depends on road surface. Had it on the interstate this weekend and while they were smooth and good riding, occassionally I thought they were a little noisy. No real complaints about them.

Here is a simple on car resistance check that you can make, it won't assure you that it is working 100% however. I think that if you don't have any fault codes stored in the ECU that you can assume that the mass airflow sensor is working ok.

If I had a lot of lightbulbs burning out, I would be checking alternator output voltage to make sure it's not over about 13.8V.

Nearly the same thing happened to me with an older Cadillac that I had recently put quite a bit of time and money into to get it in very good condition. I took all the receipts for everything that I had done to the car and the insurance company did reimburse me for quite a bit although not 100%. Without being able to document what I had done to the car, the payout would have been a lot less.

Yeah, you got to wonder why they mounted it where they did. I also have a Caddy with a Northstar engine and it's mounted in the same place. I personally can't think of a single good reason to put it between the cylinder heads but I'm sure that someone will enlighten me.

Here is a posting on an identical problem another member had. It might help you with your problem. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...05entry140805

Maybe a frozen bearing somewhere in the serpentine belt path ??

Alexander, For the 93 LS and I assume that the 95 is similar, access to the windshield washer pump is made by removing the left front wheel well liner. So, remove the left front wheel, the wheel well fender liner, and you should be able to get at it. The same "Wiper" fuse provides power to the windshield wipers and the washer water pump so it is not a fuse problem if your wipers work. Once again, this info pertains to the 93, I hope the 95 is the same.

Anthony, to make a long story short, have your mechanic get a voltmeter on the transmission gear selector solenoid circuits at the transmission input and then check again with the lights on. If you are finding strange voltage inputs into the solenoid circuitry when you shouldn't, first thing I would check would be for broken wiring in the trunk, left hinge area. Broken wires in the trunk hinge area are very common and the trunk wiring ties into the gear selector lights inside the instrument cluster and they in turn tie into the transmission solenoids through the gear selector switch. I inadvertently found that the transmission solenoid selector circuits had voltage riding on them all the time, even when they weren't selected when I installed an automatic door lock system in my 93, with the doors locking when reverse was selected. At first I had problems with the automatic door locks until I discovered the "stray" voltage on the gear selector circuits. Won't hurt to check it out and it could save you some big bucks.

Here's a tutorial on how to replace your hood struts cheap. http://www.cureline.net/lex/howtos/howto_hood_shocks.htm

A common problem, do yourself a favor and spend about $30 at Autozone and buy yourself a set of lifetime warranty Mighty Lift struts. They don't have a direct replacement but you can change the end fittings on them and you can quit cussing them. There has been a lot of info written on that subject, do a search on hood struts.

You didn't say if you are still getting a check engine light. If you are, there must be a fault code stored. Get the fault code and go from there.

I assume that you have a 90 LS but what makes you believe that the transmission speed sensor is at fault? If your cruise control is working while the speedometer is inop, your transmission speed sensor is probably ok. Inop speedometers are a very common problem while I think the transmission speed sensor is pretty darn reliable. At least this is true for the 93 generation LS. Not sure if this info applies to your 90 or not.

I neglected to advise you that you need to have the ignition switch in the "accessory" position when you jumper the remote mirror switch connector. That provides power to the radio No2 fuse which also provides power to the remote mirror ECU.

Since the left/right selection as well as the up/down/left/right adjustment switches are together, I carefully disassembled and cleaned all the contacts of the switches. It was quite a bit of work to get the switch assembly out. I personally would NEVER spray WD-40 into a switch assembly like this even though some people say they have used it for that purpose. These are not your common/every day type of switch. If you can cleaned the switches with no luck, then I doubt that the switches are the problem. These switches are very well constructed and if they are clean, then they should be ok. There are two fuses in the mirror circuit and I'll assume that you have the memory system for the seats/steering wheel/outside mirrors because the circuit is different with and without the memory system. The two fuses for the mirrors with memory are a 7.5 amp radio No. 2 fuse and a 10A Dome fuse. Check these fuses and I assume that all of your other memory functions like the steering wheel and seats work between the two driver positions. The mirrors also have a remote control mirror ECU and it is really buried under the instrument panel, behind the glove box and above the a/c evaporator assy. Good luck at getting access to it, it's somewhat difficult to locate even once you have the glove box out and btw, you have air bag connectors to deal with when you remove the glove box. You can eliminate the switch assy as the cause of your problem by jumpering the following various pins together on the switch connector. I will try to give you a matrix for checking both mirrors in all directions. First of all, here is the color codes for the various pin #'s. 1 - light green, 2 - brown/red stripe, 3 - gray, 4 - no connection, 5 - light green/black stripe, 6 - red/green stripe, 7 - no connection, 8 - pink/black stripe. Now, jumpering the following pins should give you the following movement. Left hand mirror ------2 & 3 left, 2 & 8 right, 6 & 3 up, 6 & 8 down. Right hand mirror ---- 1 & 3 left, 1 & 8 right, 5 & 3 up, 5 & 8 down If the mirrors move with the pins jumpered, then you have bad switches. If they don't move, your problem lies elsewhere. Good luck

My power mirrors were completely dead also, I got them working by removing and cleaning the contacts of the switches. The switch is very easy to take apart after you remove it from the dash. Removing the switch was fairly difficult as I recall, you have to remove other components to get at the switch.

Here's the seat schematic for a 93, pretty straight forward. If the seat moves otherwise, probably a bad switch or a bad ground wire. All of the switches in the LS that I've had problems with are easy to take apart and clean up which usually restores operation. Good luck. Power_Seat_Schematic.pdf

What year??

You need to get a digital voltmeter (DVM) and do some simple troubleshooting. First verify that your battery neg terminal has a good connection to chassis ground. If good, remove the cover from the fusible link/relay block on the left fender in your engine compartment. Pull the starter relay and check to see if you have battery voltage on any of the pins of the starter relay socket. You should have battery voltage on pin 2, the upper right hand pin of the socket when viewed from the same angle the attached picture was taken. If you do not have voltage, your main fuse link may be blown and that is not a plug in fuselink like the four on the left hand side of the fuselink block. The manual shows it to be located in the wiring harness coming off the bottom, left side of the fusible link block. It should have a big, solid yellow wire coming off one end of the fuse link. If it is blown, some of your electrical systems will work but you will definitely not have any headlights and it won't start. A host of other systems will be inop also.