obergc

Considering the conditions under which it happens, it might have something to do with the interlock that will not let you put the car out of park without having your foot on the brake. I really haven't looked into it but I believe the shift lock is solenoid controlled, maybe that is what you are hearing.

Tim, I have read posts several times where folks talk about a "cold start injector" and my 93 LS shop manual makes NO mention of such a component in the fuel injection system or of a "cold start" sensor, per se. You haven't given near enough info to have anyone help you with your problem. Does the engine crank over but just won't fire? Is your fuel pressure up to par? Is your ignition system operational? There are many, many different possibilites that could cause your engine not to start, you will have to determine if you have a fuel delivery problem or an ignition problem, etc. You have a real need for a shop manual to help you with your problem.

Don't even want to know what the problem is between you and your Dad Joe but I would advise you to be patient and try to understand your Dad's point of view. He will always be your father and the only one you will ever have. He can't be all bad if you are under 18 and driving a LS. Hang in there and hopefully every thing will be healed over soon. Curt O

If you are planning on DIY for maintenance of your Lexus, bite the bullet and buy the shop manuals, they will pay for themselves many times over and in many cases you will just be spinning your wheels without the manuals. A lot of the work is within the capabilities of an average mechanic but can be frustrating because of hidden bolts, etc. that the shop manuals will reveal to you. It will be the best investment you will make with your Lexus, trust me on that.

For the 93 LS, codes 25 & 26 indicate an air-fuel ration lean and rich malfunction. One of the possible causes that are listed is the mass airflow sensor which is in the air induction system, it is located between the air filter and the throttle body. First thing I would check would be for tears or splits in the rubber bellows section of the air intake. If you have any tears in the bellows, the engine can be sucking air that is not going through the mass airflow sensor so the ecm will not know the true volume of air entering the intake, thus it will not know how much fuel to run through the injectors to keep the air fuel ration correct. Other listed possible causes are a bad oxygen sensor or associated circuitry, the ignition system or the engine coolant temp sensor, bad fuel injectors, bad fuel pressure, etc. To answer your question, the oxygen sensor and the mass airflow sensor are not the same, the oxygen sensor is located in the exhaust system and the mass airflow sensor is located in the air intake system.

What year is your LS? I have the procedures for resetting the airbag light on a 93. Email me at obergc@cox.net if your have a 93. A common way the light gets triggered is to disconnect something like the instrument cluster without first disconnecting the battery. The procedure is a little tricky but has been done successfully by lots of folks.

My bet is that the insurance company will total it with the damage you are describing.

I think that is the right number for the a/c compressor, that's what my 03 LS has in it and unfortunately there is no way to check the oil level in the system, the oil circulates with the gas and some portions of the oil is retained in the receiver/drier, the condensor, the evaporator, etc. If you replace any component of the a/c system, the shop manual tells you how much oil to replace in the system to keep the oil level correct.

Realize that the seat belt will not completely immobilize the steering wheel but it should keep you from turning it a complete revolution which would cause you problems. I know pictures in shop manual can be deceiving but it looks like the steering wheel shaft has enough clearanace for the universal to slide far enough to disengage from the rack. Trying to attach a scanned pic of the steering rack dimensions for installation.

There is a statement about removing the steering wheel and centering the spiral cable when you remove the universal connecting the steering wheel shaft to the rack. They further state that removing the steering wheel and centering the spiral cable is not required if you fix the steering wheel so it absolutely cannot turn when you have the universal disconnected from the rack. They advise you so use the drivers seat belt, connecting the belt through the lower rim of the steering wheel. Basically, the manual says to center the wheels, secure the steering wheel so that it cannot be turned, place matching marks on the universal and the rack control valve shaft so that you can put it back in the same orientation, loosen the bolt on the upper side of the universal, remove the bolt on the lower side of the universal and then disconnect the universal. Does not mention the requirement for a puller to separate the universal from the splined shaft of the rack. From a 93 shop manual, volume 2.

give these guys a call if you want reasonably priced a/c components for a Lexus. Those prices are outrageous. http://www.auto-air-compressor.com/

A code 41 for a 93 indicates a bad throttle position sensor CIRCUIT which includes the throttle position sensor, part of the ECM since it supplies excitation voltage for the sensor and all of the interconnecting wiring between the throttle position sensor and the ECM. This should be an easy problem to troubleshoot if you have a digital voltmeter. Your 94 might be different from the 93 but for a 93, the throttle position sensor has 4 wires connected to it. With the Ignition Switch in the Run position, the blue/red wire should have a constant +5V amd the brown wire should show a good ground connection. The yellow wire should have a voltage between 0-5V and it should change smoothly when you move the throttle linkage. The green wire should also show a good ground connection with the throttle at idle position.

Contact me at obergc@cox.net and I will send you a procedure for cleaning the switches for a lasting repair.

Only one air filter in the a/c system, looks like the previous owner was ripped off. A good reason to DIY for maintenance like that, the only way of making sure of what you're getting.

Randyt, Send the schematic to obergc@cox.net

You should be able to go to any Lexus Service Place with the vehicle VIN and get a complete printout of all services performed by Lexus. They obviously will not have any records of work that was not performed by Lexus. I did this with my car before I purchased it in Fort Meyers, Fl and the car had been serviced primarily in Conn. before it migrated to Florida.

Wes, Check this link, it may tell you how to fix your problem. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...steering+column

randyt, Looking at my schematics for the 93 LS and apparently there are differences between the 92 and 93 LS, surprisingly. I can't even find a master ignition relay in the 93 schematics. For the 93, a 30A fuse link located in the F11 fusible link box powers both the starter and the ignition circuits. Do you have the Electrical Wiring Diagrams which are in a separate manual? The Electrical Wiring Diagrams Manual is pretty good at giving locations of the various components. For the 93, the ignition circuits are powered by a black wire with an orange stripe coming off the ignition switch. Just where did you install your jumper wire to get it to run? I will be happy to help if we can find some commonality between the 92's and the 93's.

You will definitely be removing the gas from the a/c system if you replace the expansion valve, no choice.

When I purchased my 93 a year ago the antenna was stuck in the full extended position and I did not hear the mast motor running when the car was shut down. It ended up that the mast was kinked and jammed in the bottom section and the nylon geared strip that runs the mast up and down was severed. I replaced just the mast and it has worked great ever since. I had to disassemble the antenna assy somewhat to the extent that I could remove the severed nylon piece that was coiled inside the cannister on the antenna. The power antenna assy has a circuit board internally and a hall effect switch that detects when the mast is moving. When the mast stops moving, the motor shuts off, takes the place of limit switches. I think you need to take a good hard look at your mast before you think about replacing the entire assy which is quite expensive. The mast alone is relatively cheap.

The fog lights on my 93 LS also operate only with the low beam headlights on. Looking at the schematic for my 93, it shows that it would be quite easy to do a simple mod that would operate the fog lights by themself without any other lights on but it would be more difficult if you wanted them to operate independently AND with your parking lights. The fog light circuit for US autos is quite simple, a single relay that controls just the fog lights and the fog light switch is connected to the return or ground side of the relay coil. The hot side of the relay coil as it comes from Lexus only has power applied when the headlight relay is energerized AND you have low beams selected. You would need to disconnect the standard red/yellow wire from the relay coil hot side and find another source that has power all the time and connect that to the hot side of the fog light relay. With constant power on the hot side of the fog light relay, the relay will energize when you turn the fog lights on with the switch. This information applies to a 93 LS, I would advise you to get a schematic for a 95LS and make sure the circuit is the same as a 93. I also would not undertake the modification if you are not at least somewhat familiar with and are comfortable doing electrical work and have a meter to make voltage checks, etc. Send me your email address to obergc@cox.net and I can send you a scan of the circuit for a 93.

With the compressor, the receiver/drier, and the expansion valve you have just about everything but the condensor and the hoses/lines. By blocked I assume you mean that the compressor is locked up. If you do have a lot of debris trapped in the condensor, it is hard to flush it out when the system is cold. You can remove the condensor (hard job, you have to remove the whole front bumper) and take it to a shop to have it professionally flushed. At the very least I think you should put a filter in the suction line to trap the debris once it starts moving through the system and keep it from trashing the new compressor. Just my opinion.

I replaced the expansion valve in my 93 after the compressor shredded itself and pumped the a/c system full of metallic debris. I also replaced the condensor and receiver/drier at the same time and installed an inline filter in the suction line next to the compressor. I installed a filter from Pace Compressors that has a replaceable filter element and even though I tried to purge and flush the system of all the metallic debris, after 4 filter changes I was still capturing some metallic debris in the filter element. It is quite possible that you have the same situation going on and that is why the compressors are failing. The expansion valve replacement in the 93 is an intimidating job but I actually had the entire under dash unit removed from the car using the instructions in the shop manual in less than an hours time. It is a pretty tight job getting it back in but it is do-able if you have at least average mechanical ability. Since your car was converted it's also possible that the system was not purged of all the mineral oil that was used in the R12 system and that oil is not compatible with the synthetic oil used with the R134A system. Cleanliness and having the proper manifold gages and equipment to service the system with gas is an absolute necessity. If you have a lot of debris in the a/c system that might be clogging the expansion valve, you could actually be drawing a vacuum on the suction input to the compressor. If you are seeing a vacuum at the compressor suction side, that would be an almost sure sign of a bad expansion valve.

I don't know about the 95's but on a 93 if the electric fans were running all the time I would be checking for an electrical connector located on the bottom, left side of the radiator being disconnected. If you disconnector the connector, the fans will run all the time.

Sounds like you shorted out the power lead to the bulb socket. What year LS are you talking about?