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Everything posted by obergc

  1. Doing good VB, getting frustrated with trying to find a new 06 LS at the right price. I was hoping to find that they would drop the price on the LS 430 somewhat since the LS460 is about to make it's debut but so far it isn't happening, at least not in these parts. It's also frustrating that the nearest Lexus dealer is 100 miles away. Anyhow, thanks for asking.
  2. That almost sounds like the problem with the ECM that was reported by others with that vintage LS. See your Lexus dealer about it and they may help you with fixing the problem.
  3. I haad purchased a few items from Sewell Lexus in Texas previously ( ) and when I queried them about touchup paint for my 93 LS, silver Taupe colored, they sent me a bottle of touchup paint AT NO COST, they even paid shipping.
  4. You won't know what you have until you open the system up, it might be clean and it might not. The company at the link I sent you also sells an inline filter that you can put into the suction line to prevent debris from getting into the replacement compressor. It is a tight fit but you can install it and I think there are other filters available also that can help protect the new compressor. You might want to take it to a shop if you're not experienced in a/c repair. If you DIY, you need a vacuum pump, manifold with gages, etc. to service it anyhow. At least you can buy R134 easily if you have the knowledge and equipment to do the job.
  5. The blinking a/c light means that the compressor is mechanically frozen. Tfhe burnt rubber smell is from the serpentine belt slipping on the a/c compressor pulley when it's trying to drive the frozen compressor. As soon as the a/c system determines that the compressor is frozen, it removes voltage from the a/c clutch coil. If it wasn't for this circuit, you would have also destroyed your serpentine belt. Very common problem. Best deal I was able to find on a rebuilt compressor was from these folks. The compressor swapout is a fairly easy job in itself, hope you don't find any metal filings in your a/c lines, then you have a tougher job. Sometimes the compressors sort of grind themselves up internally before they freeze up and that sends metallic debris into the a/c system plumbing that can cause premature failure of any parts you put in if you don't get the system purged properly. Good luck.
  6. The purpose of an intank filter which is usually located on the inlet side of the fuel pump is to keep "trash" out of the fuel pump that could damage the pump. I personally would rather have a blocked filter than to have a damaged fuel pump that would cost a lot more to replace than a filter. On the LS, the fuel pump is relatively easy to get at since you can remove it without dropping the fuel tank, at least on the 93 LS you can. I guess the best way to avoid a clogged internal tank fuel filter is to make sure that you purchase gasoline from stations that use an "inline" filter in their pump supply lines. I normally have a policy of not buying gas from a station that has a tanker there filling up the underground tanks because I believe that they are stirring up all the sediment in the bottom of their tanks and that sediment could end up in my gas tank if the station does not use pump filters. Just my humble opinion.
  7. The drain tube connects to the evaporator housing and directs the collected water that condenses on the evaporator core through the firewall to drip on the ground . You can see the drain tube if you get under the car near the firewall on the passenger side and you should have water dripping out of the tube with the a/c running. If you're not seeing any water dripping on the ground, the drain tube is either disconnected or clogged up and in either case the condensed water will drip onto your passenger side carpeting instead of on the ground.
  8. I've done it on a 93 LS and it probably doesn't relate to a 2002. On the 93, it is a big job, front bumper, (both inner and outer), cooling fans, etc. all have to come off to get it out. Hopefully your 2002 is put together differently.
  9. If you've been running the a/c it's probably condensate from the evaporator thats draining onto the floor on the passenger side. Check the drain tube thats on the firewall under the passenger side and make sure it's not crimped, etc that would prevent the condensate from dripping out onto the ground. Run the a/c and look under the car on the passenger side and see if you have water dripping out the drain tube, if not, it's probably clogged up somehow.
  10. Quite possibly so, it's the car manufacturers way of protecting us from ourselves. It goes back to the mid 80's I believe where everyone was claiming that the Audi was auto accelerating and killing people while the manufacturers were convinced that some drivers didn't know the difference between the brake pedal and the accelerator. Now, you can't shift US cars transmission out of park without having your foot on the brake pedal. I think that feature is on every car with an automatic transmission sold in the US, I may be wrong.
  11. It could be the brake pedal switch, or the solenoid that releases the shift lever lock or the wiring in between. Show your wife where the manual release for the shift lever lock is that she can depress to put the car in gear. It's under the little pryup cover near the gearshift lever in case she gets stranded again.
  12. Glad to see you got the job finished ok. Although a little late with the info, I always use an old, flat blade table knife to pry the cover off. It's worked well for me and never left a mark on the covers.
  13. pry off the lower cover underneath the dash on the passengerside. There are two wingnuts on the bottom the evaporator that holds on a plate located near the blower motor. Remove the wingnuts and plate and the filters will drop out the bottom. There are two and they bend in the middle during removal so you can get them in and out. When you reinstall the new ones, you install the first, slide it towards the firewall and then the second.
  14. I agree with Ross. Unless you have a fairly expensive DVM that you are using to measure the resistance with that can subtract the resistance of the electrical leads, you are undoubtedly reading a small resistance (.1 - .2 ohms) caused by the meter leads and if you subtract that lead resistance, you are in range on the high side. The voltage reading shifts as the sensor goes from a lean to a rich condition are of more importance, IMHO. Touch the meter leads together, take the reading and then subtract if from the reading you get through the sensor and see if that puts you in the acceptable range.
  15. Left trunk hinge wiring is the first thing I would check.
  16. Looks like it might be foam that is used to seal various flapper doors in the a/c ducting. The foam deterioates over the years. I think that you'll get air leakage in those areas and your a/c probably won't be as effecient as it should be. Kind of hard to tell from a picture but is it sort of gooey stuff? If so my guess is that it's a foam seal.
  17. Unfortunately I dont have the manuals for a 99 but I checked the wiring of the 93LS and the trunk unlock solenoid voltage is outputted by the theft deterrent ECU. There is only one connector between the trunk unlock solenoid and the theft deterrent ECU which is buried up under the dash on the drivers side and not very accessible. You need to get the schematics for the 99 LS and if the 99 configuration is similar to the 93 and has a connection point somewhere in the cabin, you could jumper +12v to the trunk unlock solenoid. I don't know how accessible the contacts of your ignition switch are but if you can get the schematics and get on the contacts, a jumper in the right place would most likely power up the theft deterrent ECU and allow you to use the cabin unlock switch. First thing you need to see is if the dealer can help you. Your problem most likely has an electronic solution, no need for a hammer and chisel IMHO.
  18. I really appreciate all the recommendations, sources for parts, and otherwise good advice but after much soul searching and considering what is known and most of all, what is unknown about the drivetrain, engine mounts, and other things that could be a huge problem once we got into a repair, we decided to let the insurance company have the car. They're picking it up tomorrow, so salvage outfit named Coparts will get the car in Jackson, Alabama, near Mobile. We've had 2 weeks to mull it over and that's the story. I am not giving up on owning another Lexus, it will definitely be a much later model with low or no miles on it. BTW, if anyone wants to know a clean way to remove all the gas from their gas tank without spilling more than a few ounces of gas, let me know. Takes about 15 minutes and the car does all the work.
  19. Don't worry. The wife has voluntarily turned in her keys. As far as fixing the LS goes, I'm afraid that's a no go. If the insurance company wasn't involved I would probably try to find a Lex with a good body but other issues on the cheap and then just swap out parts. Seems that isn't as easy as it sounds. The insurance co appraiser has a direct link with all the salvage yards and on the spot, he makes an inquiry as to the availability of any used parts. There are none in these parts. He says that by the time you pay transport costs, the used parts can end of costing more than new parts. He quoted less than $700 for a new hood for instance. The problem is that there are a ton of parts right behind the grill and they all need replacing. He totaled up $9300 estimated repair and that is more than the car is worth. I'll probably let the insurance co haul it away with a set of Michelin V rated tires with less than 5000 miles on them, an engine with new caps, rotors, sparkplug wires, an immaculate throttle body. Has an rebuilt a/c compressor, new condenser, expansion valve and receiver/drier installed, plus a filter in the return line. Several guys have got in touch and tried to help with leads on parts but in the end it'll just be too difficult. Special thanks to Sapper Daddy for the leads and information that he provided. This forum is a great bunch of guys and I'm happy to have been part of it for the last 3 years. Don't be surprised if you see me resurface down the road with another Lex. Right now I'm feeling like I'm hooked and it will be difficult to accept anything less than a Lex. Cheers, everyone. Curt Oberg
  20. My 93 is exactly the same, only one line connected to same port.
  21. Well guys, Got the verdict from the insurance company about our 93LS that the wife tried to knock over a small live oak tree with. They estimated $9300 damage so no way will they repair it. It's being totaled. Now, if there are any 93LS owners out there that have an instrument cluster that is acting up, I have one in the car that is in perfect condition. All of the gauges have been reconditioned and have bright needles, all of the electrolytic capacitors on the board have been replaced about one year ago. If anyone is interested in a perfect instrument cluster for a 93LS, please send me an email at I also have a few other odds and ends such as a set of shop manuals, including electrical schematics.
  22. LOL nc211, you're reading my mind. Took a 04 LS430 with 13K miles on it that was on the local Caddi used car lot for a test drive today to see what they were like. The car had been sitting there for a while and the tires had flat spots and traffic was pretty bad so didn't get to really give her a good twirl. Strange thing is that through a little research, found that the car was owned locally, has only 13k miles, and the next owner will be owner #3. Has to be a reason why it's that new and sitting on a Caddi used car lot. Strange, eh. They were asking $54k for it, I think they will have it for a long time at that price. You should be able to get an 06 close to that price if you can get it for $500 over invoice price.
  23. Are they cutting any deals with the 06 LS430's now that the new 07 LS460 is about 6 months away from release? Just wondering.
  24. Walt, Craig and everyone else. Thanks for the kind words, we're talking to the insurance company tomorrow and we'll go from there. I'd like to get in there and start unbolting damaged parts to see what I actually have there. My first choice is to fix it up and get it back on the road. It was too nice an car to send her to a shredder. I think I can get a front bumper assy for around $500, I haven't been able to find a hood and grill yet and I'm been trying several salvage yards on line. At first I thought TAP Recycling might have just what I needed because in their inventory pictures they have a 93LS, same color as mine that the front end looked good. Unfortunately, they told me that the car was pretty much bare bones now and that the front end parts had been sold. I need to find an LS that has been totaled because of rear end damage and that might be hard to find. I'll check to see what's available before I let the insurance company have it.
  25. Wife is ok except for her pride. She's wondering why airbags didn't fire, so do I although she said that seat belts kept her from going into the steering wheel. You're right in that you really don't know the extent of the damage until you dig into it like the motor mounts, drive shaft, etc. I'm sure that the a/c condenser is toast as is the radiator. Surprisingly, both front fenders appear to be untouched. Lost all the coolant onto the ground. I'm sure that by the time you start adding up the cost of all the little pieces that it will be more than the insurance company will spend on it. Since the car is 13 years old now, I probably wouldn't scream too loud if they did put on some used parts, I would rather have that then lose the car completely.
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