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obergc

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About obergc

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  • Lexus Model
    93 LS400
  1. Doing good VB, getting frustrated with trying to find a new 06 LS at the right price. I was hoping to find that they would drop the price on the LS 430 somewhat since the LS460 is about to make it's debut but so far it isn't happening, at least not in these parts. It's also frustrating that the nearest Lexus dealer is 100 miles away. Anyhow, thanks for asking.
  2. That almost sounds like the problem with the ECM that was reported by others with that vintage LS. See your Lexus dealer about it and they may help you with fixing the problem.
  3. I haad purchased a few items from Sewell Lexus in Texas previously ( http://www.lexus-parts.com/ ) and when I queried them about touchup paint for my 93 LS, silver Taupe colored, they sent me a bottle of touchup paint AT NO COST, they even paid shipping.
  4. You won't know what you have until you open the system up, it might be clean and it might not. The company at the link I sent you also sells an inline filter that you can put into the suction line to prevent debris from getting into the replacement compressor. It is a tight fit but you can install it and I think there are other filters available also that can help protect the new compressor. You might want to take it to a shop if you're not experienced in a/c repair. If you DIY, you need a vacuum pump, manifold with gages, etc. to service it anyhow. At least you can buy R134 easily if you
  5. The blinking a/c light means that the compressor is mechanically frozen. Tfhe burnt rubber smell is from the serpentine belt slipping on the a/c compressor pulley when it's trying to drive the frozen compressor. As soon as the a/c system determines that the compressor is frozen, it removes voltage from the a/c clutch coil. If it wasn't for this circuit, you would have also destroyed your serpentine belt. Very common problem. Best deal I was able to find on a rebuilt compressor was from these folks. http://www.auto-air-compressor.com/default.htm The compressor swapout
  6. The purpose of an intank filter which is usually located on the inlet side of the fuel pump is to keep "trash" out of the fuel pump that could damage the pump. I personally would rather have a blocked filter than to have a damaged fuel pump that would cost a lot more to replace than a filter. On the LS, the fuel pump is relatively easy to get at since you can remove it without dropping the fuel tank, at least on the 93 LS you can. I guess the best way to avoid a clogged internal tank fuel filter is to make sure that you purchase gasoline from stations that use an "inline" filter in their pum
  7. The drain tube connects to the evaporator housing and directs the collected water that condenses on the evaporator core through the firewall to drip on the ground . You can see the drain tube if you get under the car near the firewall on the passenger side and you should have water dripping out of the tube with the a/c running. If you're not seeing any water dripping on the ground, the drain tube is either disconnected or clogged up and in either case the condensed water will drip onto your passenger side carpeting instead of on the ground.
  8. I've done it on a 93 LS and it probably doesn't relate to a 2002. On the 93, it is a big job, front bumper, (both inner and outer), cooling fans, etc. all have to come off to get it out. Hopefully your 2002 is put together differently.
  9. If you've been running the a/c it's probably condensate from the evaporator thats draining onto the floor on the passenger side. Check the drain tube thats on the firewall under the passenger side and make sure it's not crimped, etc that would prevent the condensate from dripping out onto the ground. Run the a/c and look under the car on the passenger side and see if you have water dripping out the drain tube, if not, it's probably clogged up somehow.
  10. Quite possibly so, it's the car manufacturers way of protecting us from ourselves. It goes back to the mid 80's I believe where everyone was claiming that the Audi was auto accelerating and killing people while the manufacturers were convinced that some drivers didn't know the difference between the brake pedal and the accelerator. Now, you can't shift US cars transmission out of park without having your foot on the brake pedal. I think that feature is on every car with an automatic transmission sold in the US, I may be wrong.
  11. It could be the brake pedal switch, or the solenoid that releases the shift lever lock or the wiring in between. Show your wife where the manual release for the shift lever lock is that she can depress to put the car in gear. It's under the little pryup cover near the gearshift lever in case she gets stranded again.
  12. Glad to see you got the job finished ok. Although a little late with the info, I always use an old, flat blade table knife to pry the cover off. It's worked well for me and never left a mark on the covers.
  13. pry off the lower cover underneath the dash on the passengerside. There are two wingnuts on the bottom the evaporator that holds on a plate located near the blower motor. Remove the wingnuts and plate and the filters will drop out the bottom. There are two and they bend in the middle during removal so you can get them in and out. When you reinstall the new ones, you install the first, slide it towards the firewall and then the second.
  14. I agree with Ross. Unless you have a fairly expensive DVM that you are using to measure the resistance with that can subtract the resistance of the electrical leads, you are undoubtedly reading a small resistance (.1 - .2 ohms) caused by the meter leads and if you subtract that lead resistance, you are in range on the high side. The voltage reading shifts as the sensor goes from a lean to a rich condition are of more importance, IMHO. Touch the meter leads together, take the reading and then subtract if from the reading you get through the sensor and see if that puts you in the acceptable r
  15. Left trunk hinge wiring is the first thing I would check.
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