obergc

Eric, There are no relays in the charging circuit. It is a pretty straight forward circuit. There are two electrical connectors on the alternator, a terminal stud with two white wires connected and a separage 3 pin connector. Pin 1 of the 3 pin connector has a solid yellow colored wire connected and that wire turns the "no charge" warning light on through the alternator internal IC regulator. Pin 2 has a black/yellow colored wire and that should have battery voltage on it that comes from a 7.5A engine fuse that gets power from the ignition switch in the "run" position only. It should be 0 volts in the OFF, ACC, or Start position of the ignition switch. Pin 3 has a white/blue stripe wire that should have a constant battery voltage reading that comes from a 40A fusible link that is located by the left fender in the engine compartment. The heavy white wires on the alternator terminal stud connect to a 120A fusible link in the same fusible link box. I realize that it will probably be difficult to access the 3 pin connector with the engine running. With the engine "NOT" running, I would get access to the alternator connectors and with a DVM, measure voltage on the terminal stud and the white/blue wire pin for a battery voltage reading, I would then turn the ignition switch to the run position without starting the engine and then measure for battery voltage on pin 2 with the black/yellow stripe wire. If you're reading good battery voltage at those 3 points, the alternator or the alternator internal IC regulator must be bad.

Yep, add distilled water only to the fill mark.

In looking at the schematics, you have a DRL Module (they call it a relay) under the drivers side instrument panel. The headlights and the tail lights have different circuits inside the DRL module that control the lights. If you didn't want the tail lights to operate with the headlights during DRL conditions, it looks like it would be a simple matter of disconnecting the green/black wires from terminals 3 & 4 of the DRL Main relay and then connect the two removed wires together. This will in effect bypass the DRL Main relay comletely and that is in fact what you will find in the US version. Discuss this option with your Lexus dealer. Whether it's legal or not to do this in Canada is unknown to me but it would in fact be relatively easy to do.

It's available here. http://www.lexus-parts.com/partlist.asp?Su...ID=5&ModelID=62

Your LCD displays are heading south. They are adversely affected by heat and will slowly continue to degrade further with time. A common problem.

Removal of the fan bracket is part of the timing belt removal and is step 36 of a 43 step procedure. For removal of the fan bracket itself, it simply says to remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts to remove the bracket. Of course you would have already removed the fan and clutch assy and pulley from the engine. Sorry, I do not have any personal experience of just removing the fan bracket by itself and don't know how far you will have to teat it apart to get at the nuts and bolts holding the fan bracket in. If I were faced with the job, I would remove the fan/clutch and pulley to see if I had access. I'm sorry that I can't speak from personal experience on this.

I believe that there is a dealer in Tallahassee but anyhow, which cooling fan are you talking about and what bracket?? Are you talking about the fans in front of the radiator?

Lay on the ground and look up at the bottom the front bumper. On my 93 it has a plastic piece that just snaps into a hole in the bottom of the bumper. Your plastic piece is probably broken off and that's why it's dangling. You can improvise a mount for it under the bumper. Keep the sensor away from the a/c condensor or radiator area because the heat in that area will probably cause an erroneous reading, it's purpose is to read the outside air temp without any influence from engine heat.

That might be the a/c ambient temp sensor. I dunno for sure, it mounts under the bumber, passenger side on my 93 LS.

You can buy it here for $29 and some change. http://www.lexus-parts.com/partlist.asp?Su...ID=5&ModelID=60

Timing belts are cheap, it would be extremely foolish to put an old belt on, that belt is 10 years old. I would consider a new water pump while I was at it.

The obvious reply is, what is the level of fluid in your PS pump resouvoir. It may be low and you're getting air in your system. First thing to check.

What year is your LS? I don't think that feature is programmable on my 93.

I work with the military here at Eglin AFB, Fl and believe me, most of the folks here are mad as hell about what the Feds are NOT doing to help those folks. What is sickening is that we could have and still can prevente the misery taking place in New Orleans. A squadron of Navy troop transport helios could pick up and transport the folks stranded in New Orleans in quick order, take them to a staging area where AF C130 or C17 aircraft could fly them to Houston or wherever in short order. The military could handle the whole deal without breaking a sweat, they have the equipment, people and training to do this blindfolded. All they need is a go ahead from the Washington crowd that is busy taking their summer vacations. We did it in Saigon over 30 years ago, wonder why we can't do it in New Orleans on a much smaller scale today.

Your problem is definitely caused by removing instrument cluster with the battery connected. Go here for information on how to reset light, piece of cake. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/airbaglight.html

Check your sparkplug wires and plugs. Gas gauge problem probably a bad part in the instrument cluster.

Generally speaking, it should be possible to add an aux input into just about any multi-function system. It would be a piece of cake for a skilled electronic tech with a schematic in hand. And that is where the rub comes in, a schematic for the internal radio. Delco sent me schematics for the radio/cd/tape player in my caddy free of charge but I doubt that Pioneer or Nakimichi (sp) would be so willing to supply their schematics. I have thought about doing the same thing, it would be far better than having a 6 disk changer in the trunk. One of these days, I might give it a try.

Sounds like a true rip off attempt. First clue is that a body man wants to do engine work????? That's strange in itself, sounds like he screwed with something that he will straighten out as soon as you turn your back again.

Your car came with R12 refrigerant, this info is from a 93 with R134, your pressure switch may be at a different trip level. But, for a 93 with R134, you should have low speed fan operation if the A/C is on, the compressor clutch is engaged, and the high side pressure is 220psi or higher. If your coolant temp goes above 194F, you should have high speed operation. regardless. This info was taken from the engine cooling section of the shop manual. In the a/c section of the shop manual, t states that if: 1. a/c switch off or on, compressor clutch off, water temp below 181F, the fans should be OFF. 2. water temp above 194F, fans should be on HIGH speed in all cases. 3. A/c switch ON, compressor clutch ENGAGED, water temp below 181F, and HIGH side pressure is 455psi or greater, you should have LOW speed operation. A third reference point in the shop manual on testing of the pressure switch itself indicates that the a/c high pressure switch should operate at 455psi. BTW, the shop manual states normal R134 system pressures should be Low side 22-35psi and High side 199-227psi a/c set to max cool, recirculate selected on controller, blower set to high speed, engine rpm 1500 with ambient temp 86-95F. Maybe someone charged your system without pulling a vacuum on the system first, the manual says that if you have air in the system, you will have see above normal pressures on both the high and low sides, you will have bubbles or foam in the sight glass near the right headlights, and the low side piping will be hot to the touch. Something you might check for.

I have a 93 and the gauge goes to empty when I shut it off. Don't lose any sleep over it. I have had the gas gauge removed from the instrument cluster and with no power on it, it will return to empty.

Wht some of you gentlemen are overlooking is that a set of bad sparkplug wires will not set a code 13 in the ECM. While a bad wireset will certainly cause some of the symptoms described, they will not set an engine code. There is a single crankshaft position sensor and a camshaft position sensor for each bank. The relationship between the pulses coming off the three sensors determines ignition timing and an intermittent output from one of these sensors can give you the same symptoms as a bad set of wires. Your mechanic is simply using the shotgun approach to troubleshooting or rather repairing your problem. He is not troubleshooting at all. Troubleshooting this particular probe requires the use of an oscilloscope, checking for the output of the sensors at the ECM input connector under the dash on the passenger side, easy to access. However, this requires that your mechanic have an oscilloscope and that he knows how to use it. At least your mechanic is in the right ballpark, he just chooses to use a shotgun instead of an oscilloscope to troubleshoot your problem. There is no excuse for him to arbitrarily be changing parts, his approach costs you, not him. BTW, your problem could be just a loose/dirty connector to one of the sensors OR the wiring connections between the sensors and the ECM OR it could be the ECM itself.

They're getting good at patching 98 on the island, it got washed out during Ivan last Sept and they had it reopened with a single lane in less than 2 weeks. It naturally got washed out again with Dennis last month and they had it open in about a week. It's still a single lane however.

Don't know if your code is the same as for a 93 but a code 55 for 93 is No knock sensor #2 output for 3 revolutions of the crankshaft at rpm's from 1600 - 5200. The #2 knock sensor is for the RIGHT bank. I don't have any personal experience with this code, this info from the shop manual.

Are you happy with the car other than the a/c leak? If the answer is yes, then I would personally get the a/c fixed. They should be able to put in a dye that will pinpoint the leak using a black light. The cost of the repair would then depend on where the leak is. I don't see how they could possibly give you a cost of repair without knowing where the leak is. One member has stated that he has found more than one LS leaking freon at a smashed "O" ring near the evaporator connection by the firewall on the passenger side. If that would be the source of your leak, the repair cost should be minimal. You didn't mention if your a/c has been converted to R134 gas or not. That could also affect the cost of the repair although I don't know what a pound of R12 is going for these days but R134 isn't exactly cheap anymore. R134 was very cheap a year ago but not so today. In a way it sounds like you are ready for a new car and if that is the case, let someone else pay for the repair.

This may be too large for an attachment and I can't find a way to post it in the knowledge base but I'll try to send it here. A_CURE_FOR_DOOR_SWITCH_PROBLEMS.pdf