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LS 0181158

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LS 0181158 last won the day on March 27 2014

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About LS 0181158

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    1998 LS 400
  1. Thanks to both of you for your comments. I will take my car to a different mechanic up the street for an analysis of the driveshaft components/other drivetrain vibrations, since the Toyota dealer was standoffish in this department. I think I'll order the strut rod bushings beforehand and simply tell them to replace those parts at the same time. Having purchased the car with 115K, I am quite sure that at 201K, the car is still on its original bushings. I'll also have the mechanic take a second look at the motor and transmission mounts. Where did you all order the strut rod bushings from?
  2. Been awhile since I posted here! 1998 LS 400, now with 201K miles, drivetrain all original. Owned since 115K and maintained detailed records since then. Lately, I've observed the following irritations/concerns, and will attempt to break them into their own sections. Potential failure of torque converter lockup clutch or related components: The issue: At highway speeds, the mechanical linkage in the transmission--the one that is coupled when maintaining a constant speed--disengages on the slightest uphill grade or when even the smallest degree of acceleration is required. I know this is s
  3. Hey, thanks a lot. Yes, it was actually just the fuse. #31 had no effect whatsoever. #8 fixed both the climate control and the stereo. I was initially concerned the source had to be something more serious.
  4. A coworker of mine has a 1992 ES 300 (just under 180K) with stereo and climate control that both quit working suddenly as she was driving. The stereo does not turn on, and even with the car running, the climate control functions exactly as it would with the car off--that is to say, not at all. There is no blower and no display. Pressing the "Auto" and other buttons results in neither the expected audible beep nor any other response from the system. However, the clock readout (set in the upper right corner of the climate control face) continues to function normally. The car starts and runs
  5. blake918, that sounds quite labor intensive! Lifting a tire off the ground--I'm going to need to recruit Swedish strongman Magnus Samuelsson or something to help with that one. I might as well get the ball joints done, though; sounds like less than $400 parts and labor, perhaps even less labor if I'm having other suspension components replaced at the same time. RDM, I don't notice any kind of rattle, clunk or other noise coming from the car, especially not from the rear end. But I will keep that in mind--after all the parts seem to be only $35 each.
  6. How I love to hear 180K referred to as "low mileage!" Only with a Lexus, I guess. It certainly FEELS low mileage, and the ride is really the biggest factor introducing sharpness and quivers that detract from this sensation. Thanks to all for your advice and the experience you collectively related. Since my car is sitting level, I think it's safe to pass on the springs. 1990LS400, you're right--the complete strut rod assemblies are only like $65 each. Maybe I should just start there...but I'm so tempted to want the best ride possible and I KNOW four new shocks ought to improve the ride no
  7. My 1998 LS 400 (non-air suspension) just passed through 180K recently, and I feel the ride has degraded since 115K when I bought it. I'm quite sure the suspension has never been altered/replaced since new. Obviously any wear-down has been extremely gradual over 65K worth of driving, but it would stand to reason that a 180K LS 400 cannot be expected to ride like a 0K LS 400. I think it's time for some $$$ (hopefully just $$) invested. Symptoms: the car sits pretty level, but if I had to choose, the back is a bit lower than the front. -The ride has become 'sharp' over pavement imperfections
  8. That is really reassuring. During the time you've had your LS 430, I've owned five used cars (two of them for just a few months several years ago as they were of the sub-$2K variety!). Then I got my LS 400, and it has been by far the most reliable and one of the most pleasant cars I've owned. Like you said, just oil changes, plus two 60K-type services, new brakes and tires (1x), and a $2,400 timing belt/water pump service that included one of the complete 60Ks and replacement of the starter. That's been the car's history with me 115K to 178K, and still driving beautifully with no surprises
  9. I cannot add anything Banshee365 didn't already say perfectly. Just to point out my experience: -I've heard bad things about transmission flush, but then again been told it doesn't cause any issues. -Never heard anything bad about simple "drain-and-fill" changes, although it takes a few cycles to exchange ALL (or most of) the fluid. -Make sure to use Toyota Type IV fluid (as several others already said) -I don't think frequent changes can hurt. Definitely better than leaving the fluid in there forever. Every 30,000 miles is good. Personally, I've had the fluid drained/filled three time
  10. Hmm...your car has a 22.5-gallon tank just like my '98 LS 400, and EPA rating is 18/25 vs. 19/25 for my car. I've never driven in temps quite as low as 8 degrees, but my average mpg to date over two plus years (obviously mixed driving) is 22.5. I use 93 octane religiously. That said, my FURTHEST DISTANCE covered on a single tank was 583 miles in August 2008, and my gas mileage for the tank broke down to 27.8 mpg--astonishing for a V-8, and well above the LS 400's EPA highway rating. I averaged 55 mph [per trip computer] over the course of the tank--first easy driving on Vermont's back road
  11. Really sorry about your misfortune. Don't get me started on how I feel about the general public not respecting the cherished property of others. Every time I see someone leave a shopping cart rolling around in the middle of a parking lot (especially on a windy day) because they are too lazy to return it where it belongs... Whether or not to repair it depends on what the rest of your car looks like and how much you value its appearance. I've seen plenty of cars with this kind of damage that you barely notice because the entire car looks so ragged. I know on my car (which is the same color)
  12. Thanks all! Great comments, and just what I wanted to hear, too. IMHO I am more concerned about the effect of full-throttle acceleration on the transmission than the engine--although Lexus (and for that matter Toyota) transmissions I KNOW to be extremely robust. But I've changed my transmission fluid three times in just over 60K miles of ownership, and now, at 178K, the thing still shifts smoothly and crisply. In my experience, Honda products are fantastic vehicles too, but the automatic transmissions are not quite as durable. I drove a kind of ragged-looking 1990 LS 400 with 210K for a b
  13. I've got a 1998 LS 400, and I believe the design should be exactly the same as your 1995. The 1990-1994 LS is a bit different, I think. I know what "three bolts inside the trunk behind the liner" you're referring to, but you don't have to mess with those. You do have to sort of loosen/remove the tail lamp assembly to get at the bulbs, and this requires the removal of exactly two screws (circled in photos). As Cyber_man mentioned, you'll need to use a flat screwdriver to pry off the dime-size circular covers concealing the two screws. I've attached a first picture showing one of the covers
  14. Lately, I've noticed my '98 LS 400 blows out a substantial amount of blue/brown smoke on the infrequent occasions when the engine is revved to redline. Understand that I don't drive like a maniac, and even brisk acceleration for my style (due to the torque of the engine) means gear changes near only about 3000 rpm. And in 5th gear highway driving, 3000 rpm = 96 mph, so the engine is RARELY run faster than that. Most of my shifts in daily driving occur around 2000 rpm. Also, about 10K miles ago I asked my mechanic to complete a fuel injector cleaning service (along with timing belt/water pu
  15. LS 0181158

    1998 Lexus LS 400

    Exterior photos from 8/15/2009 Interior photos from 11/8/2009
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