mann777

OK the latest TSB is out...here it goes...cheers to all the clunk sufferrers... I am also attaching the previous TSB for reference, to know what has been revised. cheers :D Steering_Drive_Line_Vibration_issue_Feb_2008.pdf Rear_Driveshaft_Propeller_Shaft_Thump_Issue_May_2007.pdf

U have the option, but before that you have do a mod on the Nav Unit by providing a Overide Switch, which will then accept DVDs and can be watched on the move. The job take 1 hour as you have to remove the trims and the NAV unit completely and have to splice the harness wire and provide a switch to overide the function and accept the DVD. and you need to purchase ultimate lockpick for having the harness split and function over-ride done. If you want to do it yourself, You need to purchase the instruction from toyota techinfo for instruction how to dis-assemble the dashboard and trims and re-assemble them, as the trims are pretty expensive. If you need them I can email it to you free...just drop you email address to me on mann68@gmail.com. I will have it emailed. You can save 1200/-$ for this job

Surprising When I took my GX the posterior Lip was not even there, to accomodate the hitch. I had to install the hidden hitch , well it does not hide in any way the frames, which are clearly visible.

visit www.sparkplugs.com , on DENSO and you will have the answer. I recently had the change done, bought from sewell and it did not have one, so i presume they are standard issue.

Here are the parts list along with the part numbers.

Phily what you got is a low refrigant warning, where the pressure of the R134a is insufficient. The warning usually is acccompanied when the compressor inlet and outlet differs , either you could have a leak. There is no DIY on the Airconditioner, you need to have the guage to do basic inspection. But there is only one way to find out from your side, to check if the refrigant is low volume. There is Sight glass on the cooler refrigant liquid pipe. Ensure when you check the vehicle is running at 1500 rpm and the blower speed control switch is at high and the AC switch is on. The temp control dial is at MAX cool, and all doors fully open. if you sight bubbles in the sight glass,and you feel the cooling is insufficient by the touch feel of the air, then the refrigant is insufficient.

I forgot to mention the vehicle is an 2005 GX470 Sport Edition with mods done on the accessories ( chrome door Handles / Rear Widnscreen with Chrome strips / Roof bars chrome finish from sewell.

Dens- The question is the parts compatibility to the older GX models , Yes the part are of 2009 GX rear tail lamp part. Also do note the new Tail lamp is compatible with all GX models. I have personally checked it from sewell and the housing is exactly the same, the outer lens cover design has changed. What you are looking at the vehicle which is yes an older model, but the parts are compatible, The door chrome handles, rear windscreen glass which has new chrome strip, this has been sold at its entirety, the roof bars has a bit of chrome finish at the midway level and the tail lamps.

I have searched the parts at Sewell and I am having trouble finding them. Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks here are the p/n...81561-60800 (LH) & 81551-60870 (RH). The attached snap of the GX does not belong to me, but this is how it looks.

One point on saving fuel that is never mentioned is using the brake as little as possible. The brake converts kinetic energy into heat energy which is then lost.we likely feel desperate whenever we heard 'bout higher gas prices that is ravaging us these days.. so some are thinking of necessary measures to address this problem such as looking for ways to improve gas mileage. Hypermiling techniques would be a great idea. Look, I have read a lot of the replies and the article and have also been doing extensive research on the web after I came into contact with a local man in my area who showed me this amazing yet simple device he made in his garage. I have read up on the history of Gasoline vs California and the attempt made by California to force the Oil Companies to formulate their Gas to burn more completely (which they did for a short time which resulted in lower profits due to MGP drastically improved)which was thrown away at the nearest opportunity. Thing is, and has been proven, only 20% on average of the fuel that goes into the combustion chamber burns, and what is left over comes out of the exhaust valves on the cylinder heads. This from what I have read is due Gasoline molecules being very close together and not being able to burn more completely. To be able to improve this would mean you would have to find a way to space the molecules apart a bit, which was accomplished for a short time by the oil companies but found a way to convince the people that the additive was harmful (probably by design knowing them). So we are back to the inefficient formula again. But if there was a way to increase MPG and lower emissions would it be implemented? The problem is the economy we live in is highly dependant on "Oil" revenues, and anything that would rapidly effect those revenues could make the Economy collapse and in effect make the US bankrupt or worse. It is not surprising to me to see the political element wanting to resist these changes and want to cover up something as significant as electrolysis devices that could possibly in short order replace fossil fuels. But I think they won’t be able to keep it under wraps too much longer. Too many people are realizing how simple it is to turn water into Hydrogen and Oxygen. And if Gas is replaced by Water, how could they possibly tax that? Meter on your Garden Hose? I don’t wanna hear the negative bull crap about how inefficient it is and takes way more effort to break down than it is worth

I use 91, but all also depends on your ride, the usuage of A/c, Currently I get around 17mpg.

I have not figured it out, but on the screen there is option from the settings > Touch screen > Calibration test. check it out.

Ok from what i see your is purely a software problem, with the calibration. You can contact Gary from the address below, Ensure you have the model number and the serial number. He has helped a lot of members at a very low cost. Audio & Video Service Stop 288 Washington St. Weymouth, Ma. 02188 (800)838-3394 www.videoservicestop.com Also I suggest could you try a calibration test from your model, see if it works if not you get in touch with the above person. cheers

I dont think it is possible because the environmental sensors installed on vehicles for the US market transmit data in US metrics, such as Farenheit. (There are others apparently.) So the display unit is designed to read in F, because the sensors are designed to transmit only in F. Sorry for the glimmer of hope you had...... But there could or may be one option of you buying the whole climate contol unit assy in Canada which has the region coded and the temp gauge to display in metric values........

Billy, I cant believe it either with this type of discovery you have made , For all you know when one car goes missing, YEP !!!! BELIEVE IT OR NOT !!!!!

Just noticed a few older model GX getting the new look parts onto them. They are the Chrome strips on the Rear Glass Screen, Roof Bars - Chromed Rail bar Rear Tail Lamps - new design look. Have a look at the snap. Chromed Door Handles I was wondering why they missed on the Outer Mirror Cover could also had been chromed, similar to the Prado. Most of them are compatible to the older models. This was seen on of them. For privacy purpose the licence plate is masked..

I just heard some info on the 2011 GX. Here is the news, still to be confirmed. Could be also rumour. This was what was told by the toyota guys. The post is from another forum. Here are the specs from the 2/11/09 announcement - "Not to be forgotten at the Chicago auto show is Toyota's new 4.6L V-8 engine. With 310 hp and 327 lb-ft of torque, the new V-8 will offer more bang for the buck and is expected to deliver a fuel economy of 15 city/20 highway. Both the new 4.6L V-8 and the 5.7L V-8 will be linked with a six-speed automatic transmission." Navi - Gen 6.. Not sure what's new with it. Probably will have the "mouse" like interface that is being introduced in '10 RX Rims - 19 and 20 inch options.. 18 standard 3rd row - one touch fold flat into floor cheers

football field, giant look on the inside,I was surprised to hear and see that they had shower salon for on the first class, on the upper deck. And a bar.

Ok you got a christmas light on your cluster I doubt there maybe failures of what you have quoted, looking at what you have quoted. Unquote" there might be a failure of O2 sensors, charcoal filter, fuel pipe" Ok here is what you can check out the battery, this has happened on several occassions, and once the battery is replaced, all these warnings disappears, now to check out that have run on the leads with a volt meter, and check it should read at least of 12.8 amps. if it is low, get the battery changed, you will find the difference.

It also includes the camber and the caster Once you derive these figures The included angle is adjusted, Finally the cross Camber , Cross Caster Cross SAI must be adjusted with the specified range. The specified range could go on from 0.0 to -0.5 But ensure the Camber and Toe Range should be within the Specified Thrust Angle. The figures once you finally arrive could be minisicule in degrees. but make a huge difference in the ride and handling

Manzoor do some troubleshooting before you buy , all could be a minor problem at the Relay switch itself. There is also switch release contact at the fuel door , try cleaning it with some electronic contact cleaner. The price you mentioned is absolutely high. try at partstrain.com

Bill from the time you have all the parts, like the O-Ring oil seal, WS Trans oil for top up, the complete job time should finish max 1 hr 15 mts. It should not cost more that 50-75/-$. for using the garage for jacking up the car, you yourself can do it, just have the right tools. Here is the snap of the oil seal. I cannot find the part number as Sewell do not have this, they were willing to sell the whole actuator itself. Anyway you should get at any part stores selling oil seals. The inner dia is 15mm and Outer Dia is 23. Make sure you get this exact size a bit variation you will have the same dilemma of oil leak after some time. cheers i am going to sleep

Ok from what I see is the Drive actuator is got a leak, I had the similar one 3 months back, and exactly the spillage, everywhere wherever I had parked, now it is not a serious issue at all. Ok here it what you need to do. 1. First before jacking up the car, ensure Drive Mode s/w off. 2. Jack your car up. 3. To the actuator you have the lead harness going into it, disconnect the one on the body of the transmsission connecting to the harness. 4. Do not at any given time disconnect battery terminals( if done, the ecm stores a message that drive actuator is defective. And to erase this message you will have to go to the lexus and do it from the obd). 5. Remove the drive actuator by remove the 4 bolts in the front and then 2 bolts connecting the trans. 6. You will have a spillage of bit oil from the actuator, not to worry. 7. Get the actuator on the workbench and open it you will see an oil seal within the actuator damaged, try getting a new seal , replace it and ensure proper application of gasket silicon is applied better to buy the ones toyota sell it. Good stuff. 8. Fit the same way backwards. 9. Top up the WS trans oil. 10.Connect the harness connector to the trans and the actuator. 11. Start you car, raise the RPM to 3000 for 2-3 mts. Shift your Transmission gear from P - D - 1-2 ( all of it) Shut down your engine. 12. Again Top up your WS trans oil. 13. Lower your car from jacks. 14. Now get the Drive mode s/w to on ( ride control) 15. Good to go. let me know how it has faired well.

This is purely not as an argument but for for an experiment sometime, open the K&N and an OEM and compare the total filter media area. Of course, that doesn't account for the filter media's effectiveness. Most don't beat OEM but rather allow larger chunks of contaminants in pursuit of added horsepower claims, which is horsefeathers in reality. Technically it maybe annecdotal info and could be taken with a grain of salt but regardless should be looked at in the K&N versus others debate.

I read about some of the benefits of replacing the air intake filter system with a K&N type system (small increase in HP, slightly better MPG, better response in high gear, no future filter replacement, etc. An engine is essentially an air pump. I did it following the various information gathered in process and I got my LS screwed up in the bargain collecting dust and ended up everytime cleaning the MAF sensors. And now I have reverted back to the OEM, it has been perfect. And what I gathered is You can try to bring as much air as you want through the intake, but the engine is only going to take in what it can exhaust. So if the exhaust can't push the amount of air that the intake can pull....guess what? You've just wasted your money. Secondly, while K&N filters do allow a larger volume of air to come through into the intake, the problem is that the let more dirt through to accomplish it. Maybe the exhaust system needs a revamp, I do not know of the cat back style systems work. Maybe someone who has got these got give some info.....