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Everything posted by mann777

  1. He will repair it, but the TSB warranty will not be, I have done this and the cost was pretty meager. So I assume you should not have any issue.
  2. Check you Height Control Solenoid has moisture intrusion, then they die slowly, time for replacement.. The pump will work, but not the height control. Expensive part, but still do a bit of troubleshooting then conclude I would from a good Auto elect.
  3. They are called as Running Board Rocker Panel Moulding Clips. There was TSB issued to improve the condition of the clips as the earlier ones used to give away. 75867--60020--C1 Same Clip, Rocker Panel Molding (Black) 2 75867--60020--B2 Same Clip, Rocker Panel Molding (Silver) 2 75867--60020--B3 Same Clip, Rocker Panel Molding (Gray) 2 Running Board Revised Clip.pdf
  4. The cause was a defective component during installation, and lexus issued a TSB and here is the corrective measure you can take it to a mechanic if youare out of warranty or have the dealer do the job ( vice-versa). Hope it helps. AC lite Blinking on RX.pdf
  5. check out the TSB, hope this helps. Rattle.pdf
  6. The Rattle noise, Lexus issued a TSB to this effect, have a look, hope this solves the rattle problem. if you are under warranty, take a copy of this TSB and ask the dealer to have this complied. Otherwise you may have to do it your self seeing the TSB from a private garage. Rattle.pdf
  7. Check the TSB, hope this resolves. AC lite Blinking on RX.pdf
  8. Yes, you seem to have a RX..and there was a TSB to that defect arising out of RX, I dont see your model, but the TSB was effective for 07 models RX and the solution was to replace the AC amplifier. The TSB is attached. Hope the info helps AC lite Blinking on RX.pdf
  9. If you plan to keep the vehicle for awhile, I would suggest keeping the services at your Lexus dealer. I took the bite at a $2800 bill last month for the 60k check up and the timing belt. It's worth it because I would never trust the outside shops to service a $50k vehicle like this. This car has too many sensors and computers that outside shops may not be familiar with. Dens...I am really surprised after you have mentioned that to stick with the dealer, look here you have quoted $2800 for a 60K check up job, and replacement of timing belt, Even the manufacturer does not suggest to replace at 60K, so the dealer has ripped you to do this job so early, unlike a 90k job wherein the timing belt are replaced.
  10. if you want to take the gamble then you should focus more on the T/Belt Tensioner Assy and the Chain tensioner ( regular visual inspection once after it crosses 100k) as that is the root cause for having the T,belt life depletion, As the spring tensile within becomes weak, it has a direct impact on the T/Belt life expectancy. The belt wear & tear is faster, that is why the whole lot set is asked to replace along with the T/Belt.
  11. Since you have already covered on the Timing belt, I would not go into the detail. Now coming to the replacement of Crank Seal, the replacement is only done when there is a oil leak. The seepage starts around the main pulley towards the bottom of the engine. To replace it is not rocket science, Yes there are few obtacles that needs to be removed in order to have a decent space for the removal of the main pulley, All you need is a crankshaft pulleypuller. Now one thing is quite important to note while using this tool, the seal is rite behind the pulley once removed, so this has to be done quite slowly, by giving a few taps( wood mallet or fibre) around quite mild, so that you dont damage the surface and and then you slide the new one in and tap it evenly into place. The Cams replacement I have not heard of replacement even on high mileage, unless you have a total dead compression, My LS400 has reached 323000 miles and to date I have not done anything to it, and rest replacement as per the books have stuck to it, and still runs like a top.
  12. Open your Engine Cover and try & replace the Ventiltion Valve and the hose together as sometimes carbon deposits does not allow the hot air to escape and manifold becomes clogged. The cost is less that 50 buck both. and you can do it by yourself, Time required - 20 mts.
  13. I had the OEM for 6 years, and recently replaced with Optima Red Top 35(8020-164)So far so good, Lot of good reviews on Optima, So I went in. Also nothing bad on the Toyota OEM ones.
  14. Not sure I think maybe the cluster it is the immobilizer that he is talking about, that has got activated. It is something to do if he has a duplicate key and the transponder within is not communicating to the ECM with the ID codes of the key chip. This activated the security system. The key with an car image embedded is on the cluster blinking.
  15. Go to Autozone and they can do it via the scan tool.( It is free )
  16. Go to the dealer and tell there is a TSB to this issue, and take this copy attached and have it fixed. Moon Roof Stuck Improper Operation09.pdf
  17. The Flickering cause is the AC Magnetic Clutch relay, which is located in the Engine Bay Fuse Box. The flickering was effect to models between 2003-2006, Anyway I did not know the 2008 models were also affected. This could a remote case.Anyways Toyota issued a TSB to the same. The job is a 2 minute job. Also one needs to is replace the relay. I am detail the inspection procedure. 1. Open the Engine Bay - Fuse Box. 2. Identify the AC Magnetic Relay( to locate use the map location on the inner cover of the fuse box) 3. Verify if this is the part number mentioned on the relay - If the part number is 90987--02022, please replace the relay with the countermeasured relay P/N 90987--02028. 4. The Vehicle should be without the Ignition Keys inserted. 5. If the new part number is what already installed in your vehicle, then only a diagnostic scan would tell you the problem. The attached images are the Relay and the Relay location ( circled in red ) in the Fuse Box. Last after replacement, disconnect the battery (-) termninal for 3 minutes and reconnect. And your are good to go. Hope this helps.
  18. The Drone Noise..there is a TSB going on and that is why the replacement has been done. It would be better to go back to the dealer as something has not been done rite in terms of the harness connectors above the T/Box to the ECU that is why these lights are not fired up.
  19. Each wheel (including the spare tire on certain vehicles) has a tire pressure warning valve/sensor integrated into the air valve with a unique ID number that measures the tire pressure and tire temperature and then transmits the information to the antenna/receiver mounted inside the vehicle through a radio wave signal. The unique ID number must be manually entered into the ECU using TIS Techstream whenever the tire pressure warning valve/sensor is replaced or after a tire and wheel are exchanged.The Tire Pressure Warning System Indicator Light on the combination meter is illuminated or flashes continuously when the ECU senses that the tire pressure, tire temperature, and/or unique ID number does NOT match the specified value registered in the ECU. The “MAIN/2nd” switch allows the owner to have two different sets of tires and wheels, with two different sets of tire pressure warning valve/sensor ID numbers. For example, the second set would be used for snow tires. Register both the main and the second set of tire pressure warning valve/sensor ID numbers in the TPWS ECU. The switch is available in the Glove Compartment when you depress it, it reads the values for the 2nd Tire settings, which is normally for Snow ride. Hope this helps.
  20. The Torque specs are 112 NSm (1142 kgfScm, 83 ftSlbf)
  21. Stuln, It is called as "Height Control Solenoid Valve'. It is not the full compressor, but it a part which sit rite on top of the compressor kinda a bracket assy.If you under warranty, ask them to refer to the TSB SU002-05 which refers to " VEHICLE HEIGHT CONTROL SYSTEM:C1735 EXHAUST SOLENOID VALVE CIRCUIT. This rectifies your defect. hope this helps
  22. The sensor does not get activated if you toggle the s/w, the function of the sensor is only when there is incessant rain showers on the front windscreen,and the toggle is on Auto mode wherein the sensor gets activated, the manual operation is via the toggle switch. I hope this clear you doubt on the functionality of the sensor.
  23. Kordate...the click or tick noise is coming from the Windshield Upper and Lower Windshield Stoppers which are bonded to the top and the lower side, these are retainers which has to be replaced, I had mine done under a TSB LSB-0090-08. Hope this helps
  24. The symptom, I am unable to figure out, where is the Air Whooshing, or could say hissing noise while accelerating btw 2000-2500 on the RPM, and just for a few seconds, and thats it, And it just normal after that. I have checked all hoses clamps, Exhaust port, belts, Radiator, Bearings, Everything is checked and removed,all in perfect condition, no signs of any damages, any ideas :( would be appreiciated
  25. The Code P0031 is related to the Oxygen Sensor Charcoal Canister ( located on the mouth of the Exhaust closer to the Engine, or the charcoal canister ( Located below the Fuel Tank hose). What you needto do is probably go below the vehicle rear Remove the Spare tire wheel, You will see a Purge hose to the tank and to the side are the Fuel tank hose push the connector to the inside. Now pinch a bit of the hose, And remove the connector, Just blow the connectors and reconnect or use a CRC spray. Now to the right is the VSV connector, remove with the same procedure and have it refitted. Tighten the Gas Cap. Check it out by Disconnecting the battery and have them reconected, this will ensure to remove from the ECU memory. Start your Car, hoping the Christmas light are gone. Now if they are still existing, Now you need to target the Oxygen Sensors, Normally they are replaced as a pair. hope this helps.
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