mann777

a I had the similar problems ( light Flicker, the needles not getting illumunated, some had minor crack( this was way back 6 yrs ago and there was this JIM from Fresno who did mine for 200/- all tach needles replaced, so far "knock on wood" it has been perfect. This is his email address:- jimlwalker@sbcglobal.net. Give it a try

Just to want to add to the curious list, as the symptoms quoted are Alternator, there is a rectifier with the Collar Adjusting Alternator, if this is fused, you would have the brushes getting worn out faster, and later the condenser blowing out. You may want to look at these also.

I had the similar problem, the idle issues and the acceleration, all initially was the ECM as the target, but after much trouble shooting, I found out that the below Part, which is directly propotional to the Acceleration and idle issues. P/N - 89452-33010 - Throttle Position Sensor, this connects to the Traction Throttle Valve Motor. Replaced the faulty one, It has not been better, all issues resolved and perfectly working.

Here is the simply DIY tutorial All you need is some basic tool to have the oil changed on the GX470. Enjoy it How_to_change_the_Differential_Oil_on_GX470.pdf

Not many know about Jumper cables, I suppose you check this website and this will improve you knowledge on the jumper cables which are available ( i mean not the cheap chinese junks ones off walmart shelves or supermarket chains ) check the one on this website. Since yo own a expensive truck, might as well hv the best. This product recently i acquired it, worth every penny. Click here B)

Nothing serious, DTC No. DTC Detecting Condition Trouble Area P0442 P0456 After cold engine start. After VSV for EVAP operation, the VSV for EVAP is turned off sealing the vacuum in the system and the ECM begins to monitor the pressure increase. Some increase is normal. A very rapid, sharp increase in pressure indicates a leak in the EVAP system and sets the DTC P0442. This monitoring method is also able to distinguish what is called the small leak detection.(DTC P0456) A pressure rise just above normal indicates a very small hole. Fuel tank cap incorrectly installed Fuel tank cap cracked or damaged Hose or tube cracked, hole, damaged or loose seal ((3) or (9) in Fig. 1) Vacuum hose cracked, holed, blocked, damaged or disconnected ((1), (2), (4), (5), (6), (7), (8), (10)and (11) in Fig. 1) Fuel tank cracked, holed or damaged Charcoal canister cracked, holed or damaged Open or short in vapor pressure sensor circuit VSV for CCV VSV for EVAP VSV for pressure switching valve Vapor pressure sensor Fuel tank over fill check valve cracked or damaged. What you should do is Check your Gas Tank Cap,probably it would be loose while you did last re-fueling. Next go below your car, there is hose from the Fuel Tank which connects the VSV canister, check out the hose clamp and have them re-tightened. Now Disconnect the battery terminal (-) and EFI fuse, to erase the DTC code in the ECM memory. And have them reconnected. That it you are good to go.

If the shift lever does not move, there is a override feature on the GX, just remove the leather and with a Philip screwdriver remove the shift lever cap, there is shift lock release, have it depressed, now check if the lever can be shifted to any other position other than P. This must be done while the key is in position to "LOCK". ( AT this position the lever should not actually move to any position) After this procedure now get to the Ignition"ON" position, now depress the brake/clutch pedal and move the lever to all position other than P( while the release link is depressed) . Now move the lever to D position, and now turn the key back to "lock position". The key should not turn to lock position while the lever is position at D. If it does than that means the shifter has below a detent rod and a torsion spring, The spring is the culprit here which has broken, once you open the it you will know the stuff, if the spring or the lever is all ok, then it is the shift lock Control ECU sub assy blown. You can do this job yourself with basic tools, only get the part from the dealer. Before you get the right part, have an inspection done and you save up the dollars from the dealer ( unless you are under warranty) If you have all the tools, this job should not take more the 90mts with taps on. cheer

Mine lasted 5 yrs and 6 months, My LS400 first time last 3 years and there on replaced 5 times. For the GX I recommend going for the OEM on ( P/n - 28800-66021 ) or go for the Optima Red Top .

MC...they are not only dealer in the world..see a another one..maybe they would be positive, dont give up.

The top Engine hood cover has to be removed in order the tool can be used to remove the PCV valve. The hood has got 4-6 bolts ( i think on top of my head). The location of the PCV valve is when you face the Engine from the front . the PCV valve ( if you have a purchased a new one) you will see the same one on the left side of the Engine towards the rear not exactly but corner ( between the 4-6 Plug) .It has got a Ventilation Valve cover you need to remove it in order to replace the Ventilation Valve itself which is beneath it. Before you replace you can do a pre-check if they are faulty. Remove the old one and Blow air in the valve, and check if the air pass through smoothly. if not replace it, as these deposits are difficult ot be cleaned. Important Note :chairshot: :chairshot: :-Do not suck the air, as these petroleum deposits are very harmful.

McMann ..they will not give up easily, take another car, and ask them to compare when there is that song playing from your engine and one that is'nt, Simple, Ask them to fix it, than telling stories of design. I think you are being taken for a ride, dont be soft, its your car, and it is you should be having the satisfaction than they convincing you of the design plot. Beat it !!

With regards to the Radio Antenna..there is no such antenna on all GX models Front Windscreen. but they are on the Quarter Window both LH and RH side and the antenna are Glass Embedded. Now coming to your Rain Sensor removal, if you watch the unit from inside, there are two claws either side , release them and remove the rain sensor cover. There is a stopper from the below side, pull out the stopper and release the lock. ( give only a slight pressure to pull the lock downward action) Now disconnect the harness connectpr and remove the rain sensor. There is no adhesive but you could go to your nearest spare part dealer and ask for a Rain Sensor tape. This normally has two side tape. The yellow side to be peeled first and attach the rain sensor ( the sensor part of the rain sensor). Give a hard press to release all the bubbless or air beneath the sticker. Now peel the other white side. This is made of silicone, ensure no finger to touch this sticker. Ensure B4 you stick the glass to wiped clean of any dust . Important Note:- Make sure you have a small air blower to blow of any dust settles on the sensor. You can clean with a soft cloth. Now make sure the Claw is in open position . Gradully attach the rain sensor to the glassand prevent in air bubbles in between. . And have the harness connected. Now push in the stopper and have it locked. Thats it. The only pain is that while you are seated on the driver seat you may to stretch out a bit to do this job for around 15 minutes to do it carefully.

Guys Maybe I am wrong but this does not sound to me Piston Slap but a Cylinder Piston Baffle which is within the cylinder head. There was issues on certain GX models and TSB rolled out for this symptom. Go back to you dealer, and ask him not to give crap story "as this will go away after few minutes". My friend has a similar symptom and they lied exactly the same way and did not do the job, until one day, it was unable to bear, And he made a issue and gave his peice of mind. Finally they replaced the cylinder head.

Ok PV..this is the criteria the dealers usual check and come to decision. There are various stages. What you could do go by this method and do a physical inspection that will make sure the dealers are not taking your for a ride and you would know the Struts stage for replacement.Hope this helps. shockabsorber_replacement_Criteria.pdf

I had exactly the same noise, not to worry, Just replace the following parts in order. Parts Needed: ■Timing belt ~$52 ■Water pump ~$155 ■No.1 idler pulley ~$98 ■No.2 idler pulley ~$62 ■Timing belt tensioner ~$40 ■Thermostat - ~40$ Optional Parts to Replace: ■Spark plugs ■Spark plug wires ■Distributors ■Rotors ■Drive belt ■Air filter You will peace of mind, after that. A new lease of life to the car.

It was quite simple the First Generation LS400 EC dont last long( This is my opinion) I have had this vehicle since Day1 And I have completed 15 years with 227000 miles. Never had a serious problem unlike this one. All I had to do was connect the tool to read the codes, It was not reading at all. Only the cluster lit with the MIL blinking I figured could be the battery, MAF Sensor, etc Nopes was'nt it, I had my collegeau ECM pulled out and fitted on my car, Bingo It worked !!. This car LS has been my favourite all time. I will never sell this car at all, even though my wife keeps saying sell this old car, You already got the LS460 I keep saying even you are old.. On the contrary the LS460 has given me more problems since the last 3 years compared to the LS400 in 15 years. I am waiting from sewell a response if they can source a new EC. That will give fresh lease of life to this car.

Would anybody know the Engine Control just died...Are these available and what price. I am not tooo happy in repairing these, as they dont last long of what I have heard. The part number is 90467-07117. Here is the image

If the shocks are bottoming out, then thats an indication of the shocks absorbers are slowly dying out, you need to replace them as early as possible to avoid the compressor getting over loaded, then you would end having magnitude of problems. Or you could have the shocks re-conditioned them which dwould last for another 6-12 months. ( But not worth it ) unless you plan to seel the car,depends what you want to do.

It is normal for GX models on start up and at Ign off stats - The compressor begins to work and the self leveller begin to adjust the suspension, and at off they tend to lower down. Nothing abnormal and it is how the Automatic Suspension works. Now to the problems you have quoted , There are various problems to the rear suspension. The various factors are you should look at is if the vehicle bottoms out, or does it pull to the side while drive and due to the tire wear and tear, there is a tendency of mis-alignment. And most important if the shocks are worn out, and wheel being out of balance. Make a check to all these areas and correct as neccessary. Now if all of the above is ok, do a visual vehicle inspection. 1. Rear Shock Absorbers ( view from the rear tire wheel well side of both RH/LH side and check for any leaks. 2. Go to the rear of the vehicle and check underneath to the left of the vehicle suspension area, you will see the Pneumatic Cylinder Assy. Check for any leak around the area. If it is Ok then check the sensors by jacking up the vehicle. Ensure to s/w off the Ride hieght Mode to off at the driver area. Now the Sensors are situated below the Upper Control Arm Assy. Most of the times these do tend to become faulty and the compressor behave abnormal at times. They are not expensive to replace, The dealers rip you off with the manhours involved. You could replace this by doing in your own garage. To chek the sensors faulty. all you can do is goto autozone and have a test done thru a scan tool. cheers

This is the first time I have heard of this symtom across GX models. This was similar to the case heard on the LS400 Instrument Cluster problems.

I cant give any document, I know what lexus follows to replace a strut. That is attached for you here. But there is always a second possibility if and when a customer complains how effectively the dealer handles the situation. Following are the reason you can mention to them. 1. You are begining to feel the old strut which is yet to be replaced, is sometimes bottoming out on small pits. You get a hear a small kinda thud noise. 2. Sometimes you feel kinda bouncy at even normal roads when you ride from a give uphill and then a sudden downhill. 3. While applying your brakes firmly at higher speeds, your vehicle have a tendency to drift left or right to whichever the strut which is yet to be replaced. 4. When changing lanes quickly you say that your vehicle rock or sway more to the side sometimes. All these contribute to handling characteristics of your vehicle and therefore the strut which is yet not replaced is not in sync with the other one replaced. shockabsorber_replacement_Criteria.pdf

Exactly I fully agree with NC on the struts replacement theory. If the dealer is saying one has to be replaced, he is taking you for a ride. That what they say and practice when tryin to replace something on warranty.

Yes the dealer can do it , check out the GX 470 Personalised Setting for the Interior Lights. You have an option, but only thru the dealer.

This is how the GX TPIS works . Each wheel (including the spare tire on certain vehicles) has a tire pressure warning valve/sensor integrated into the air valve with a unique ID number that measures the tire pressure and tire temperature and then transmits the information to the antenna/receiver mounted inside the vehicle through a radio wave signal. This includes the 5th tire ( spare tire as well. The ECU of the vehicle is programmed and vallues are inputed of 5 tires with the labelled PSI during the delivery stage( mentioned on the door label) . You can increase or decrease these values thru the TIS ( only via the dealer ) But the tyre has to be installed ( spare tire). For if any reason the tire is removed or the sensor is removed from the wheel, there is a grommet there, which has to checked periodically . Also this sensor has a Lithium battery which needs to be replaced once in 5-8 years( average life span). Normally this is how a warning is generated The ECU takes each tire pressure, tire temperature, and unique tire pressure warning valve/sensor ID information from the antenna/receiver and compares it to the specified value, which was registered during PDS( Pre Delivery Service) If the information received does NOT match the specified value registered in the ECU, it will transmit a signal to illuminate the Tire Pressure Warning System Indicator Light located on the combination meter. Hope i have enlightened about your doubt.

Sorry Mate...you have to goto the dealer for personalised settings for the GX