mann777

thanks buddy !

Can somebody tell the p/n for this Engine mounting rubbers ( OEM ) ????

Can anybody tell me anybody fitted a TPS on LS and has it been working well for a good period I mean an aftermarket stuff or a known brand such as Bosch,

The ECM is storing these warnings, what needs to be done is just reset the computer just by simply removing the fuse 20 , prior to that remove the negative battery terminal . Once the battery is disconnected remove the fuse and connect it after 5 -1o mts. Connect it back and fix the battery terminal. Here you will lose your memory saved settings ( clock / radio etc) go for a test ride. IF it is still persists Check the code of the warning lite via the obd tool. Mostly it is the sensors which on the manifold front end which has a high failure rate. You need to change this cost 100$ for 2 pcs. lemme know the result cheers

thanks guys picked up the valve and the grommet for replacement

I had the same problem, traced it to the sensors, and most of the failure is the front end sensors on the manifold. try it

Hi Could somebody tell me how one will know that the PCV valve funtioning is working, though the car is working fine, Does the Car ECT tell the driver in the from of warning on the dash cluster. What kind of signal does it respond to. As what i see there is no sensor placed to tell the failure. Because the main function of the PCV is recirculates partially burned gases from the engine’s crankcase to the combustion chamber. When does the PCV replacement or change occur, And if the new one is installed, what enhancement in the performance can one see in its car.

Ok here is a way, i have tried on my 94 it did work, now if your orginal keys did have the remote buttons for lock/unlock, there is a easy way out to this, without any tools. The remote works on a ultrasonic frequency and that is programmed on the key remote. U need to ask someone to call from a land line phone to your mobile phone, while the caller is making this call, please ensure to have the mobile antennae facing the door locks. And press the calling button on the mobile phone to accept the call. The remote key unlocks your door. Sounds strange, well the key works on the UF frequency wave, that solves the problem. ( maybe few attempts are required ) Now if your key does not have the remote key button the workshop / garage is the other option, or go in for a new key reprogamming without much damage to your glass, and other stuffs.

Can i suggest, try one last time, since these check lite coming are stored in the ECU memory, i suggest u have hte ignition off, remove the EFI fuse, and insert after 30-60 seconds. Then remove the negative terminal (-) and kept off for 3-4 mts and then fix back. Go for a trial and let me know. Basically the triggering mechanism of this checklight is the ECU detecting these malfunctions which are related to the sensors or actuators.This ECU self diagnoses this blink pattern of check lite and stores them in the ECU memory.. These memory stored can only be removed by the EFI fuse(20A) in the ignitor fuse box.

Marcus I have sent u the attached pdf file, it should solve your clarifications. for other members as well the attached file is in pfg format, version 6. please help yourself to study the diagnosis of this defect. :) Checklight__procedure.pdf

[ Hi i was one of the victims of the dread warning "engine checklite" I carried the following intstruction as per manual .The ECU contains a built in self diagnosis system by which troubles the engine signal network are detected and the checklite warning come up.The light goes off automatic once the malfuntion has been repaired. The diagnostic codes remain in the ECU memory until it is cleared by removing the EFI fuse with the ignition switch off. The diagnostic codes can be read by the number of blinks of the "check: engine warning light .Using the TE1 and E1 terminals on the TDCL located below at the driver side or check connector are connected using the check connector tool. Part no#SST 09843-18020. The lowest code appears first A lot of procedure goes into this with regards to the blink pattern.. I suggest u just have the fuse EFI removed and connected back.( removed for 20 - 30 seconds) . Once completed now remove trhe battery terminals ( - negative terminal only) and refit them after 5 minutes so that to erase from the memory itself. Have a test drive. it should not come up, if it is then the procedure followed is not done correctly. If anybody is interested i can send the whole diagnostic procedure by email. mail me on mann68@gmail.com. I would be happy to assist the members.

I have no problem sending it out to be fixed. I was just thinking it might be more than just the display. When the car warms up after about an hour of driving, the interior power window buttons, climate control lcd, and all the other lights start to work. I am wondering if it is not an electrical problem. I thought there might be some moisture somewhere so I left the car running for about 4hours. The problem came back quickly after the car was sitting cold. Thanks. I suggest u send the whole instrument cluster to Jim, he is the perfect guy as he has years of experience in doing this. He looks into every aspect of failure and gets the job done for half the cost. I suggest u not to repair it unless u have the expertise and the right tools. These are delicate and needs to repairs at utmost car and ambient temprature. cheers

I was a toyota chemical engineer working in the fluids engineering in Japan quite some years back ( 1994-1997 ) and I should say this all you guys having different opinions to the transmission fluid. Ok here is how it goes, When lexus was launched the transmission fluid to be used was given a great importance, looking at the engine and gears running at various speeds. The oil made for the toyota engines was made and specially formulated and selected from a highly refined base stocks and compounds and additives of special nature were added after years of research to enhance oxidation and thermal stabilty, friction control, load carrying capability, corrosion and wear protection and low foam tendency. The viscosities were measured under various tempratures until the flash point . Now coming to the lexus cars finally toyota derived a special formulation to protect its engines and work to its optimum and thus they got the results with being the quitest and smoothest engine ever built using these fluids. We as manufaturers not from the marketing point of view but from the engineering point ensure these are to be used across our network worldwide. Now you as consumers expect the same results. There are few who do not have the patience to use the OEM stuff and go to the nearest gas station and service with various other oils and do not know the repurcussion on long term use how they can affect the funtions of the engines. I forgot to add also note during the test level the decibel level is calculated on the engine running and using various composition of the fluids. Toyota engineering have then come to the conclusion . Now as the years go by the fluids are upgraded, that does not mean they cannot be used on older cars, they are most compatible. The upgrades are done to improve sludge resistance, oxidation stability,increased energy densities and shifting performance. ANd lastly i should say this Many service fluids curentlly in the market simply do not provide the level of performance that is now required. I hope you all continue to use Type iv OEM and it does make a hell of lot diiference.

Ok guys here is the update, I got the pump removed and had it checked, nothing is wrong with it, had the half bracket assy changed which is placed on the fan belt. I felt the bearing assy in it was bit hard, had a new one replaced. fitted back the whole stuff. went on a roll, the sound still persist. Today I am having the transmission drive shaft assy check which has the main bearings along with it. Will let you know the outcome. Thanks for your support guys

As suggested I did not change the water pump and the bearing, Hoping this squek or whining stops as this irritates when the whole car is smoothe on the go. Thanks for the suggestion

A

[seasons greetings to all. Sorry for the late reply, still in holiday moods, anyway Ok I have done the following tests.(1) Car on parking and when you spin the steering from left to right and vice versa, only noise is the tyre making irs grind on the surface parked. ((2) I put the car on jacks and then did the same test, it was smoothe, no noise at all.(3) Car on roll be it from garage or at any stop and roll, the whinning noise is from the front end, It is quite mild in nature, its like some grind internally and some quite of metallic sound. When the car slow down during a traffic stoplight or move the noise is there, After reaching 30-35mph, the noise dissappears. it all silent.

Seasons greetings to all. Sorry for the late reply, still in holiday moods, anyway Ok I have done the following tests.(1) Car on parking and when you spin the steering from left to right and vice versa, only noise is the tyre making irs grind on the surface parked. ((2) I put the car on jacks and then did the same test, it was smoothe, no noise at all.(3) Car on roll be it from garage or at any stop and roll, the whinning noise is from the front end, It is quite mild in nature, its like some grind internally and some quite of metallic sound. When the car slow down during a traffic stoplight or move the noise is there, After reaching 30-35mph, the noise dissappears. it all silent.

Mann: I don't know about the "whining" just after you start to move. But about your garage.............find a new one! If it were an American car, I'd go a long with them on "slow death". As you read more on this forum, you'll find a great number of owners with 100K + miles. Mine is a '95, has 155K & is just getting "Broken in". I plan on hanging on to it until at least 300K. It was a $60,000 car brand new, which I bought for $7,000. I'm in the process of putting about $1,500 in to it. I couldn't be happier! There is a solution to the whining noise.....be patient, there will be a bunch of guys that will jump all over this to help you out. How about the Power Steering? That's one that I have personal experience with. Has the screen/filter on the P/S rack Solenoid been removed and cleaned? When you first start out, are you going in a straight line or turning? Anything else that you can add about conditions at the time, etc will help everyone else narrow it down. Mann: I don't know about the "whining" just after you start to move. But about your garage.............find a new one! If it were an American car, I'd go a long with them on "slow death". As you read more on this forum, you'll find a great number of owners with 100K + miles. Mine is a '95, has 155K & is just getting "Broken in". I plan on hanging on to it until at least 300K. It was a $60,000 car brand new, which I bought for $7,000. I'm in the process of putting about $1,500 in to it. I couldn't be happier! There is a solution to the whining noise.....be patient, there will be a bunch of guys that will jump all over this to help you out. How about the Power Steering? That's one that I have personal experience with. Has the screen/filter on the P/S rack Solenoid been removed and cleaned? When you first start out, are you going in a straight line or turning? Anything else that you can add about conditions at the time, etc will help everyone else narrow it down. Hi all thanks for the info, infact I have checked ther PS solenoids and have them cleaned. Here goes how i have checked the sound, I jacked the car in my garage and after start had one of the boys put on gear to roll, the sound more or less comes the engine .I just recently changed timing belt, pulley bearings, pulley etc whole stuff, could it be the bearings, just a thought. For sometime i thought it the differential gear at the rear, i had changed the oil and re- torqued all the bolts. Surprise still this sound continues.As mentioned there are lot of garages, only few have the technical knowledge of the LS mechanism. One of them quoted to me to rerack the computer box which is below the gear shifter. "It sound funny but out there there are few who want to make a quick buck than solve the problem.

Gents I need help - as stated i have a whinning noise during the move stage just after u move , and also during parking stge while reverse or forward. I have checked the whole car no leaks whatsoever either in PS or engine or transmission. Mylocal garage says this could be slow death to the car as the car is already done 155 thousand miles. Any ideas