mann777

Hello Member. I want to share with all GX member of how I went about doing the Front Brake Pad change and rotor skimming done at the workshop and post fitment. It was done at my friends home garage who were pro's in going about this job and had all the pneumatic tools thereby considerable time was reduced except for the rotor skimming which had to be given to the lathe shop. Please ensure if you are carrying out this , ensure all safety and precaution is maitained. the zip file do also contain picture tutorials which will come handy while you do this job. The torque specs used by my friends were quite speific figures, so ensure you have certain knowledge of torque level to the bolts on the calliper and the wheel lug nutsHow_to_Install_Front_Brake_Pads_on_GX470.zip cheers.

How do i get the buzzer sound getting activated, for instance, When the door is open, the buzzer never gives me a warning alarm, and neither for the seat belt, does anybody have any ideas. The only alarm or buzzer is heard when the Ignition key is inserted and 3 times buzzer sound is heard.

nopes it was a A380.

I think 2006 LS430 is very similar size to your model headrest, hunt around in the scrapyard, you may find one.

Ok Firstly I have to say this, the part number mentioned is not a toyota lexus part number, as Toyota / Lexus have only 10 digits. Now secondly coming to the fender which you have damaged, sorry to hear about that incident, Could you be more specific to the exact place of damage, as the LH Fender as it comes as a part assy, (#53802-6A130)cost $376/- , but then you have more addition to this that is sold seperately which the LH fender side protector assy(#53828-60030) costs $44.84/-.Then you have the LH fender liner -(#53876-60050)$76.07/-. Then you have the Lexus OEM Front Fender To Cowl Side Seal Lh(#53867-60040)cost $15.19/-. In addition to this you have the grommet, screws,washers,clips etc. You just need to know exactly which one is damaged, you get the specific parts from sewell. I think it better you take the insurance way.

Well for me I was beyond the warranty stage, was covered under CPO but sewell just refused blantantly.So I knew what the other dealer also would cook up . I had never used any cleanser for dashboard for the entire GX life with me, but it did not sound convincing to them & The dealers would never accept it there fault that this is a manufacturing defect, I did'nt want much time haggling with them, I took my decision of getting this part myself, ofcourse it was factor of time that took while i had to fix in between my business, but it was a pleasure to get to the intracacies of the front panel removal with utmost care. Because it was a bit tricky for me as it was the first time and i had to do it slowly , But the fixing the same new panel this was finished in 72 hours compared to the removal one which took 8days out of which 6-8 hours a day of continous work . The most difficult part was the clips which are placed behind the instrument cluster, and the drive panel. I had to detach around 121 clips and around 23 harness connectors. And mark them also as many harness were look alike and they had to be marked for refixing. The best I could do was write it simultaneously and color tag them accordingly. But I finally acheived them flawless. I cant ask for more. Just try with few other dealers also, if it works you are lucky, otherwise get it fixed yourself. Lastly I have to add as you see very few member of this forum have got this defect arising of late on there model. I wish others could contribute their inputs with their dealers on similar cases.

I agree with Randy, with the glut in the market due to the economic slump, I am sure toyota could have worked out with the local refineries to market their own product with strings attached.

Recently on business trip to Far East and Middle East, I walked into one of the Lexus Spares Centre in Dubai - Middle East, And surprisingly I saw Lexus Synthetic Engine Oil on the shelf , A gallon can costing 19/- $. So I asked the showroom manager is it newly introduced and he says no it has been for last 2 years, it was 5W-40 grade. specially formulated for LX Engines. So I asked him why these are not available in USA, He says the Highest sales for Lexus around the world for the last 3 years has been in Middle East with SUV taking the top spot. Hmm Is toyota loosing its market share in US Now I have not seen these product of Lexus branded Synthetic oil been sold across continent US or Canada, Here is a snap shot of it, Any reviews, I though of sharing with our GX members. Sound interesting.

Press the load button and wait for the CD changer to accept from you, Once given, go ahead and load the cd. Do not it would load only one cd, so for 6 cd you need to press load button 6 times .

I do not know if this part is mentioned in the manual, but all you need is goto each door glass control s/w and get the glass down completely , wait for 3-5 seconds and then get it right back up. Each door glass should be done once, and then finally go to the main door glass s/w at the driver side and voila s/w works for all doors. Hope u save ur ride to the dealer...cheers

has it been sold, unable to see on ebay

Ok guys here is what i did, as someone gave this idea to me and it worked. seems to be foolish if lexus has built a system in place for lock and release. 1. When all doors are locked,and if the unlock is'nt working. This case if and whenever a battery terminal is removed and reconnected. 2. Sit in the Driver area. The doors lock when released do not work. What one must do is go to induvidual door control s/w & press the s/w down,until the glass down till the last resting area. Wait for 3- secs and get the door glass back again rite to the top. This must be done all doors induvidually and sequentially, clockwise direction. 3. Now come to the driver control area. Just click the lock release button once with the ignition key at position 'on'. 4. Now once you have activated this the glass screen and the locks work fine. I exactly followed this and it did. surprisingly. Hop it works for you and save your dollars.

ok Here it goes no sleep, I did some investigation and went about opening the cluster two screws , it was bit difficult to remove the console and had lot of dust, did a blow spray using the aerospace electronic circuit board cleaner spray, as this are quite soft on the plastics while the spray is done, otherwise you will tend to have the plastics withering of in no seconds. And finally I was looking at all the harness, and happen to see one wiring harness connector loose. A snap here is attached, Fitted it back and now it works fine, Hurray saved lot of dollars if this had to go the dealer, for sure. I am going to catch up with some sleep. thanks for your support guys.

ok here is an excerpt view, this should clear all you doubts. Quote:The API/SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number associated with the W is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as cold as a single-grade 10 weight oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W". The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100�C (212�F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle. Unquote Hope I this answers ...cheers

Ok here is the breif synopsis of events. 1. When you start the car, the instrument cluster lights are all on. 2. When you toggle the Headlamp s/w to Main beam low, ( The cluster light go out , pitch dark) 3. When you toggle it back to off position, now here only the daytime lights are running. The cluster lights are back on. 4. Checked the Dimmer s/w absolutely fine on dimmer and full bright mode . Here got the toggle s/w to High /low beam mode and used the dimmer, no luck. 5. Check the fuse box and ran a test to all the leads to the instrument cluster. all ok. I am out of ideas .... I had a similar problem on my LS400 - 94 models as there was this instrument cluster would flicker and then go out. There was this guy JIM from Fresno who fixed it. Most of the 94 model had this problem, it would used to happen at the early morning start and until the IC would get warm,then the instrument cluster would come up, and sometime intermittent flicker used to happen during the ride. IT was bit annoying as the you could not see a damm thing whether be it the speed or the fuel guage. This guy did a wonderful job of fixing it. This has lasted till date. I had fixed it just as the lick ran out on the warranty and today i have covered over 223000 miles, it is just perfect. One thing for sure I could make out is the speedo / fuel / temp RPM guage are running fine on the GX while the lights are out.

Last evening On drive back home while getting the Headlamp lights on, the Instrument cluster lights does not get illuminated, but when you put if off, the instrument light panel come on, strange !!! Any ideas... suggestion...welcome

I had a long chat with sewell dallas and they insisted that 5w-30 is the best ever for the current models since 2003. Seeing the viscoscity and its properties are quite similar, I cannot say why because it could be the oil temp variance & kinetic viscosity temp as this could hit the seals around and they do have some abrasive properties. This is purely what i studied. The decision is still left with you to take the right one. If your vehicle is covered by a warranty , follow recommended oil from your service manager and go for the recommended one.

I only know for sure sync oil have better advantage over others, and they have been shown remarkable improvement over their performance . Some of the usual advantages are 1.Measurably better low and high temperature viscosity performance 2.Better chemical & shear stability. 3.Decreased evaporative loss . 4.Resistance to oxidation, thermal breakdown and oil sludge problems 5.Extended drain intervals with the environmental benefit of less oil waste. 6.Improved fuel economy in certain engine configurations. 7.Better lubrication on cold starts. I only know one thing for sure that cold countries and the hotter countries have different grade in the sync oil for their automobiles. I have witness personally when I travel around the world on my business trips. BMW and certain Merc class cars come as standard factory fill of syn oil and the replacement interval is over a longer period than normal oils. My advise go for it, no need to ask you lexus service manager. You will witness the change in your car smoothness.

The Entire Dashboard Cover was replaced, along with the trims ( w/o the console such as Navigation / ODO / Main Console Controls and the system.

Yes I am one of the victim to this hairline crack which has appeared as exactly you have mentioned, I did have one more along the passenger side above the glove compartment running the whole length along the wood trim. Not noticeable, but if you give a careful thought yes. Now coming to the repair, I weighed all the options available as I had somebody giving me about rectifying the crack by adding metal paste along added with dash board leather trim color paint, finely filled along the crack, and painted, but it would look shabby,So I finally had it imported the part myself from Singapore which worked out very cheap ( 490/-$ ) The shipping was taken care by my friend who was going on a family tour. Once I had them I used the Repair manual, and completed the whole repair in 11 days. It was bit complicated as the locks on the panel dashboard are very tricky. The are perfect now.

Smic there are various factors to the Pedal sink on application. I have listed some which most probably could be the root causes & its remedy. 1. Air in hydraulic system. (remedy) Bleed hydraulic system. 2. Low brake fluid level. (remedy) Fill master cylinder and bleed hydraulic system. 3. Residual pressure check valves not holding pressure in lines. (remedy) Pump brake pedal look for bubbles or fluid swirl at compensating port in reservoir. Replace master cylinder. 4. Excessive clearance between drums and linings.(remedy) Set parking brake and pump brake pedal. If pedal height raises and is normal, adjust Brakes

check out your rear axle both rear wheel carrier arm bushings

I have to ask you did you feel brakes pulsating initially when you applied brakes. Ask the mechanic what was the first job done when you had this warning reported to him,Did he open the bleeders on the calipers when compressing the piston on the plunger to replace the pads or did he force the fluid up to the master cylinder or he might have damaged the seals, if he did the latter and were too harsh about it at the bleeding stage, then there is a possibility of brake fluid contamination.

If you really want good life on brake pads, skip OEM...they just dont last long enough, skim your rotors and have Akebono ACT ceramic pads, wont cost you much, it been over 17,000 mile last replacement done And my LS400, is still going, I plan to replace on the GX as soon as the life is over.Believe me, they are just too good for any ride you name it. If you are under warranty. Your case, it is really strange, Maybe it is the ride as you said, makesure foot is off the pedal, even a slight depress would keep the brakes getting grinded to the slightest pretext of being safe of keeping the foot on the pedal. My GX I even tow my boat sledge, which is quite heavy, and I have never changed at such interval.

I reckon you should have a adjustable wrench which could somewhere in range to expand & collapse between 14-16mm bolt.or tubular spanner to fit in.