eugene.s

From you last post, you seem to have more issues. (1) replace the tires (2) do a four wheels alignment. You'd benefit hugely from it. And it shouldn't cost too much more.

The LX470 suspension is rough but nothing like "beating to death". This is having 3 different brands of tires what is most likely causing a bumpy ride. This is also a huge safety issue. In my region, we've recently had a driver who died as he was driving at circa 60mph, had to make a sudden maneuver but was unable to retain control of a car due to different tire threads and their different level of wear and tear. He smashed into a truck and died. Not ideally, but you can still have front/rear tires of a different thread pattern/wear and tear, however, both of the front tires should have the same pattern/wear and tear and both of the rear tires should have the same pattern/wear and tear (and you'd put the most worn tires on the rear axle). Ideally, all four tires should be the same. Other things which may cause a bumpy ride are: - dirt on the wheel disks. Not your case (having driven 300 miles, the dirt must have gone away); - a wrong wheel alignment. Best to perform a wheel alignment once a year.

Hi All, Anyone knows the specs of the original LX570 battery (capacity and CCA)? For my 2011 model, in all the catalogs, I can only see the reference to the battery model "105D31L" and the part number "28800-66021". Searching the web did not help. The part number seems to be discontinued and when I search for the model ("105D31L") I can see batteries with various specs (capacity and CCA). I am interested no know, for the original LX570 battery, its capacity (85 Ah or more?) and CCA (Cold Cranking Performance) - CCA 710 A or more? Thanks in advance

I would check injectors and cylinder compression

Hi folks, Apologies if I am inadvertently writing to a wrong thread. But what's the easiest way to remove the technical inspection sticker? I use the car outside the U.S. and the sticker has become weird. I've tried to remove it but the process doesn't seem intuitive. Any hints?

Airdog99, have you gone to another shop for a second opinion? (going to a dealer doesn't seem a viable option)

Now this website is down (https://secure.drivers.lexus.com) - perhaps just until Monday. Register there, input your VIN and you'll see manuals, recalls, service history etc. for your particular car.

Perhaps corroded wires. I'd go to a mechanic to test the wiring for continuity.

Not familiar with LX470. But sounds similar to the famous GX470 crank shaft issue (or whatever it's called)... Maybe worth checking the GX forum for a reliable solution.

Why are you so focused on the belts? If you are so energized, go to https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/home Or a relative page to the UK.

Hi James, having read through your and others responses, I think you must do (2) from my original post. Then wait and see. And revert here if any further trouble. Maybe you may prefer to do (1) from the same but that doesn't appear critical to me now at all. P.S.: When in your further posts you may prefer to refer to "not [being] cold", please always advise your place or its temperature. I've lived in London before; your feeling for "cold" may be very different from what the "cold" means around the world.

Hi James, I am not a car mechanic or electrician either but from all my experience as a car user: (1) If my belts squeaked, I wouldn't think of a problem with the alternator, I would think that the belts become loose and that I need to adjust the belt rotors to provide a proper belt tension. (2) I believe the normal battery life is 3 years (I've rarely seen a battery to go beyond that). If I were you, I would recharge or replace the battery and see if the battery indicator ever comes on again. (3) If you believe that your problem is deeper than that, I would suggest that you first check your car for any error codes ("computer diagnostics"). (4) You may also try a "consumers" check -- to check what exactly drains your battery when the car is off. This implies a car electrician to connect special devices to your car's wires while it's on/off. No need to remove anything other than the plastic covers under your hood. (5) If you may want to check your alternator individually, it will need to be removed from the car to be tested on a stand. If you ever go this route, I suggest you make sure that people doing the alternator removal/installation have done it before on your particular car model (if the procedure on an average car takes 1 or max 2 hours, on a Lexus car it may take up to 6 hours -- so, you'd want to ensure that the mechanics to be employed have done this on your particular car model before and won't be experimenting). I believe for each of (1) to (5) you don't necessarily have to go to a dealer, you can call on any tested car mechanics/electricians in your place. If you describe in this thread where exactly you are located, I hope that local forumers would be able to help you. Good luck, Eugene

I would expect a problem with the mirror motor. You can find it here for you car (link) and then search for a replacement by the part number. Another common guess (a prob with wires) seems to be excluded -- as you say the mirror is making the noise, trying to unfold it (if I understood you correctly), then the wires must be good.

Hi, look up for 'initialization' (or 'initialisation') procedures in your owner's manual

OK, clear, no need for a video. I would try to move the seat back/to the front as far as possible and check the connectors between various wires underneath the seat. If you can't reach all of them, you may have the seat removed. I assume you've checked all the fuses first and that there are no error codes.