93ls400walt

On the engine port pull up on the lip on the windshield side of the cap.

electrical contact cleaner, a can of compressed air ( from the computer store ) spray lightly with the e.c.t. and blow dry it with the compressed air. Do this a few times Then graphite it. The park neutral safety switch is under the car. It connects the gear shift and the trans gearing. Simple adjustment, but if it was out of adjustment you might be having trouble starting the car in park or neutral also. If you want to try this P.M. me and i'll post or fax inst. to you

Maybe adjusting the park/neutral safety switch would help. If it is an issue with the ECM not recognizing that the trans is in park.

power steering lines run along the oil pan from/to the trans. from the pump

Look at www.troublecodes.net select the dropdown box for trouble codes to select your car model

common issue on these cars. It may work intermittently. Some people say a hard tap on the dash above the tach helps now and then. options are to buy new/used circuit board for the inst cluster, maybe repair. Do a forum search for further info.

Thank you for your reply. My cel code for the trans is 42 # 1 vehicle speed sensor Other codes are 41 TPS and 47 for Sub TPS. Which confuses me since I do not have Trac Control, so I do not have a sub throttle position sensor. I thought that my probs were with either the #1 or # 2 solenoid shift valves. But I found a thread where someone had similar probs and replaced the shift sensors which did not fix the issue. Replaced the vehicle speed sensor and solved the prob. I am ordering a new speed sensor and hope this is it. Any thoughts on the code 47 ?

What lead you to replace the fuel pump? How was your car driving?

Hello, I have a question I hope some one will have an answer to. My 93ls with 130k miles is throwing cel codes; 41, 42 and 47 41 is TPS new TPS installed 42 is #1 vehicle speed sensor- not replaced yet. Car has O/D light flashing and not shifting into overdrive. I also think that sometimes the trans shifts from 1st to 3rd skipping 2nd. 47 is sub tps which only TRAC control models have a sub tps. I do not have TRAC control and thus no subtps. I've checked the wires along the trunk hinge and did not find any broken,bare or even cracked insulation. And left the wire hanging. Took the car for a drive, ran fine trans shifted well, did not engage O/D, checked cel codes. No codes ! Shortly afterward trans acting up again ( skipping 2nd ) cel light blinking then no cel blinking. Jumped the OBD and codes 41,42 and 47 back can the wire prob. throw false codes? What does it indicate when the cel light blinks without the OBD being jumped? Thanks !

www.techinfo.toyota.com $10.00 a day or $50.00 for a month. This site is from Toyota and has tech bulletins and the complete factory repair manual online. You can print out what you need.

Yes, Welcome to the LOC. Please post your findings so we may learn a bit or teach a bit. Also please list any of the problems that you may be having. Like power loss, rough idle, hard starting, fuel odors ect... My wife's Camry had the intermittent CEL light coming on. It would clear for 200-300 miles after a disconnect then come back on. The owners manual states that a bad gas cap can cause the CEL to light up. I replaced the gas cap with a new factory cap 2000 miles ago and the CEL has not come back. I did not try to pull a code as it is an OBD2 and autozone would not scan it. Though they would let me use it if I let them charge $300.00 on my credit card. Which they said would be removed when I brought the scanner back!!!!!!!!!!! Walt

If the check engine light is coming on then there should be a stored code. Also ask him to jump the OBD connector to run in Test mode. Manuel states that Test mode has " HIGH SENSING ABILITY TO DETECT MALFUNCTIONS " STEPS 1 battery 11V or more 2 Throttle valve fully closed 3 trans in neutral 4 A/C off 5 turn ing switch off 6 use Wire to jump TE2 AND E1 a; turn ing. switch on and check if CEL light is flashing, if not test mode will not work 7 START ENGINE 8 simulate conditions of prior malfunction 9 after road test connect with wire TE1 and E1 10 READ THE CODES FROM THE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR 11 remove the wires from TE1,TE2 AND E2 hints Test mode does not work if TE1 and E2 are connected after the ign. switch is turned on when engine is not cranked code 43 is output, but this is not abnormal when the shift lever is in D, 2, L or R or when the A/C is on or when the accelerator pedal is depressed, code 51 is output, but this is not abnormal

Not a transmission expert but I think there would be minimal to no damage since you were in park and at idle. If you drove with low fluid I think you could damage the drive plates and develop slipping, overheating and excessive metal wear.

Any trans. codes?

The ECM is located behind the glove box. It is fairly easy to get to by removing the under panel and glove box on the pass. side. If you get that far I'm sure this site can help you with the procedure.

Ya, I was wondering about any codes also. Also sounds like the black smoke is just a side effect of the engine rpm issue. Are you in gear and driving or in park/neutral when the rpm drops? The black smoke would indicate to me that you are getting a rich mixture of fuel or a lack of air to burn the fuel. Is your throttle cable properly adjusted, is the throttle plate opening as it should? I don't recall if you did any thing with the injectors maybe they can leak excessive fuel into the cylinders. Just trying to brain storm

The post of mind bending rough running with one poster stating that his prob. was solved with a new fuel pump. This may be a fuel starving issue that you have. As for the black smoke I'm not sure how that would factor in to the lack of fuel. But I think it's worth looking into.

does the engine turn over, fire, but don't start.....ect? give some more specific details. in the mean time check all of you connections, battery, alter. ground wires. And check the wire harness that runs through the drivers side trunk hinge. pull the trunk liner down and the black trim strip off the hinge. unwrap the wires and look for bare or broken wires. Do a search for trunk hinge wire. common issue that gives many different problems.

My 93ls 130k miles does not have trac control. Thus no sub-throttle position sensor. Codes showed 41, 47 and the code for vehicle speed sensor. I think that I was having probs. with the wire harness in the trunk. O/D flashing and not shifting into overdrive. I found no bare or broken wires. So I moved the wires around and left them hanging. Rechecked the codes and the vehicle speed sensor code and code 41 are gone but code 47 is still there. The trans shifted smoother and I no longer have the acceleration problem I've had for 2 years. Such as under more than very slight acceleration the rpm would drop and I would loose forward movement. Before the O/D prob I did have code 41. Replaced the TPS which did not fix the acceleration prob. and the code 41 did not go away. I thought it was the ECM and was going to send it out for repair. I guess that it was a wire harness prob. affecting the trans. I did not have any of the side issues associated the harness such as the reverse lighting up or any wired probs. Any thoughts? Could there still be a wire problem setting off a code for a sensor that the car does not have? The only thing that does not work on the car is the pioneer cassette player and the CD player. Of note on the CD player, there is no power to the in-trunk CD cartridge head and can not eject the cartridge. Thanks

I'd look at the coils. The driver side coil seems to go out first.

you need to check the Cel codes. Is your trans shifting OK? The solenoid shift sensors which shift the gears seem to be a common issue with the O/D flashing. My 93ls just started this and will not shift into overdrive. My Cel code is 42 for the #1 vehicle speed sensor. I have not changed it out yet.

My 93ls had sputtering under acceleration or even going up small hills on the freeway. I did a complete tune-up and this fixed the prob. What I found was that the the dist. caps on both side had massive corrosion in side the coil wire terminals. The caps looked great on the outside but when removing the coil wires the terminal broke apart exposing the corrosion. I recommend changing the caps and rotors along with the wires and plugs. Cleaning the throttle body well. And a can of Seafoam now and then. Also replace all of the vacuum lines that you can see on top of the engine. They get old and cracked or loose fitting and affected my idle and performance. If you have time to wait you can order parts on-line from Park Place Lexus-Plano Texas. Their site gives the parts and price. And they have some of the best prices that I have found. If you don't see the part you need just type what you want in the additional info. box. I have ordered many times from them and have had nothing but excellent service.

Anyone have experience and or advise in doing this. Looking to change or inspect and clean the shift solenoids. My 93 with 129K has the flashing O/D off light and on occ. the blinking CEL light. With no up shifting from 3rd to OD. Sometimes no up shifting from 2nd to 3rd. And every now and then when holding a steady speed around 50mph it will shift back and forth between 3rd and 2nd gear. My fluid is recently changed, the crank out two qts and fill process, untill the fluid is clear and pink, used around 10 qts. And I found no broken trunk hinge wires. I did notice that when this first started last week the my outside temp display did not change when coming down from the mountains to the low desert. A temp change of 25 degrees. Also that the Tach was slow to respond and erratic. Both of which function fine now after pulling the trunk hinge wires apart. searched the threads and it points to the shift solenoids. So I am looking for any tips or tricks. Thanks

The transmission issue make me think of the wire in the trunk problem. The wire harness on the drivers side trunk hinge, one or more wires pull apart or frays causing a short. There is more detailed info on this if you do a form search. Otherwise I vote for the coil. Apparently the driver side coil goes out primarily, being lower and subject to more heat.

I have not checked the fuel pressure. I also have read from a British car mag that the ls has a 2-speed fuel pump. That it has a higher output under faster acceleration. Don't know if this is true. I first thought it was a fuel issue, changed the fuel screen in the tank and the underbody filter. No change. On my ls I have sort of ruled-out the fuel system as the result of the emission test. Unless the NOx would go up under a fuel starving situation. Any thoughts?