93ls400walt

Did you replace the entire cluster? If not you may try swaping out the temp and fuel circuit board.

I would look at the fuel filters, one undercarriage and a filter screen inside the tank. The fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump itself. Or just have the fuel pressure checked before any of this to see if the pressure is correct. You may have code that does not trip the check engine light. Someone may be able to tell you how to check for these. Basically you jump 2 connections in the engine comp. or under the dash OBD. with the ing. on but the car not running. the check engine light will blink codes. long and short blinks. with longer pauses between multiple cycles if you have any. Count the sequence. Example, 4 long blinks = 4. 3 short blinks =3 and vice-versa. Codes are 2 digits. Post what you get. You may want to clear the codes buy removing the neg battery cable for 1-2 minutes the reconnect and drive the car. come back and check for codes.

There has been a lot of info. about a loose/broken wire in the trunk on the driver side trunk lid hinge. Causing wired elect. probs. It is under the rear deck undercover. Worth a look.

What change did you notice in driving you car with the larger rims?

It's hard to see unless your on your back on the floor of the driver's side.

Well I hated to hear that. I was banking on the ECM fixing the problem. It will be a week or two before I get the ECM out shipped, fixed and back in. But I will keep watching this thread and post the results of what 9 ( I hope ) fixes this.

The button is call a kick down switch. It is for the trans., dropping it to the next lowest gear, when the peddle is pushed in with the throttle valve already fully open.

I've had the EGR of a few months ago. It was very clean. I did not test the ohms, ect... as I am not very good with the mulit-meter. The Ca.gov site gives some info. EGR, retarded timing, engine cylinder temp above 2500 deg. F, CATS to some extent. www.smogcheck.ca.gov I am not going to the dealer tomorrow. I have an issue with the ECM as Scotty2hottie had. That was fixed with his unit being rebuilt. I have a constant code 41 for the TPS which has been replaced and adjusted . The repair manual states the the ECM will go into a failsafe mode so the car will run. One of the issues is that the timing will be fixed at a lower BTDC. I wll send my ECM off first and see if that fixes this. And look at the EGR. Before I send it off to the dealer/Indy shop. Thanks for your help.

Well I failed the smog test. Everything passed except the NOX at 25mph RPM at1996. It just barely passed at 15MPH/1525RPM. The NOX reading for 15mph is 668 with max passing level at 681. The NOX at 25mph is 1430 with max passing level at 687. I had it tested at Desert Lexus in Palm Springs. ( yea, I know ) But now I am suppose to take it in monday to the and they will tell me what needs to be done. I can do most repairs to the car. But I have no idea where to start with this. Any advice? I just moved to Palm Desert, CA from Lexington, KY. Other smog info: 15mph/1525rpm: Co2 14.23 O2 0.08 HC 11 CO 0.01 NOX 668 25MPH/1996RPM: CO2 14.20 02 0.14 HC 9 CO 0.01 NOX 1430

I am about to smog test my 93ls400 Federal lexus ( non-california ) car in California. Has anyone done this before? Any trouble passing the test? If so, what were the issues? Thanks

don't know much about this. But what was the reason that you changed the injectors? And I would go over the injector circiut and connections.

Thank you scotty2hottieoki. I've always felt it was the ecm. I'm going to go for it. Glad that yours is now fixed!

Thanks, I have thought about the pressurized injector cleaning. Also I forgot to mention in the orig. thread that I have recently flushed my trans. I agree, on the dip stick it look nice and pink, but in the clear jar the fluid was cloudy and dark. No burnt smell though.

I think mine is more than a slight hesitation. The car actually stops forward movement. Almost like it slips into neutral. But I don't think that it is a trans. prob. As when I let off the gas and press down again the car has immediate movement and sense of a gear change at any time.

I am thinking of sending my ECM out for a diag, and repair. Was planning on sending it to Auto Tech in Jacksonvill, Fla. But I just came across a UK thread which had a prob with Auto TEK or TECH in England. So I got a bit worried. Anyone have a ECM sent out for repair with good results. My 93ls has a hesitation prob at any speed if I try to push the gas peddle down to fast. Not flooring it, even a inch is enough, if it is done to fast. The rpm will drop about 500 and the car seems to loose forward movement. The rpm will cycle up and down the 500 if I hold the peddle at the same position as when it started. If I let up on the peddle then accelerate a little more slowly everything is ok. The prob is worse if I am going up even a small hill, have passengers or the A/C is on. I have a code 41 even after a new TPS. I have replaced prior to this prob. plugs,wires caps, rotors, coils, underbody and in tank fuel filters, PCV. Cleaned the throttle body more that once and cleaned the EGR. Neither were very bad. Replaced vac. hoses. Ran many cans of Seafoam and BG44K. All have helped a bit as that I can accelerate a bit faster and harder. But I still have to watch about trying to pull out or pass someome. Let me know what you think! Thanks, Walt

There are some threads that address this issue on the gas guage. In fact I had this prob. also. I bought a used cluster, as my tach and spedo, had issues too. If I remember it is a cap. prob. that may be fixed with replacing them

The web site for Park Place Lexus-Plano, Tx only list one TPS. They appear the same in the repair Manual. I would call a dealer to be sure. There is an sub throttle actuator that may need ohm checking. Resistance is 0.5-1.0 ohm. To check place one probe in the center slot then place the other probe in the slot to the right and check reading, then move the probe from the right side slot to the left side slot. Repeat this with the row of three above the row just tested. All have the same ohm specs. To adjust the sub-tps use a 0.30mm feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and the throttle valve gear ( under the sub throttle actuator ) Then connect the ohm meter to the IDL@ and E@ of the sensor. Turn the sensor clockwise until the ohm meter deflects and set screws. Re-check the IDL2 and E2. 0.30mm in place as above = continuity 0.50mm in place = no continuity PS: any update to the engine hesitation? or is this still part of the work-up? Walt

Look on the web site www.cartalk.com There is a link to mechanics, type in your zip code, and a list of customer recommended shop for your area will come up. I found one in Esondido called Alternative Automotive with 50+ excellent reports for Lexus service. Shop phone is 760-480-0851. It may be a bit of a drive I'm 40+ miles. But if it as the reports say. It will be worth it. ( I have yet to go there but plan on having service done with them ) I know my info states Ky. I am moving to the Palm Springs area in 1-2 months and looking ahead for a shop.

What did $1200.00 buy ?

Seafoam at any parts store. $5-6 per can.

Could be many things but I would go over what was recently done. Like look at the throttle cable to see if it is binding, ect. Look into the throttle body to see if the throttle plate is closing properly. The repair manual list in the Matrix chart the flow of high idle problems, in order of causes , #1 switch condition signal circuit which includes the Park/neutral switch signal, Air cond. switch signal and the TPS. Next is the IAC valve then the A/C signal circuit. Since this was not a prob. before. I would go over what was just done. Also the Dash Pot, in my thought, could affect the idle.

Yes, I live in Ky and know what you mean. It could be the ECM Have you had the failure codes checked? I am just trying to think of the less expensive route. Have you read the post " drinking gas and barely moves " ? just below your post. Turned out to be the coil. A lot of people felt that it could of been failing/clogged CATS. I am working on a hesitation on rapid acceleration problem and fear that it is my ECM also. But I am in denial because of the price. Good luck!

I don't know about the #'s. But starting off with the ECM is overkill. I'd look at a new battery. At least re-charge the old one and see if it has the problem again. You can re-set the ECM by removing the neg battery cable. for >90 secs. Just be sure to have your stereo code to re-set it if it is set for anti-theft. If it gets up and running use some seafoam in 1/4 tank of gas a few times to help clean the fuel system. Clean the throttle body, ect. Tune-up plugs caps roters, wires and two new coils prob around 400.00 for parts. If you don't know if these have been done in the recent past. Then with or without the new ECM you still will be glad that you replaced them. Good luck and welcome to LOC

I have a 93ls with the same issue. The rpm drops 5-8 hundred rpm. It feels as if the car slips into neutral, no forward acceleration. Sometimes the rpm will go up and down a few hundred rpm in a jerking fashion if I hold the pedal steady where it was when this starts. If I let off the accelerater then re-apply the gas slower there is no problem. It is worse if there is a load on the car, such as, the A/C is on or I have a couple of passengers. I have a code 41 for which I have replaced the TPS and adjusted it many times. The code does not go away. Cleaned the throttle body several times, also the ERG valve, ran many cans of Seafoam and BG44K, Replaced the in-tank fuel screen, the underbody fuel filter, the plugs,wires,caps,rotorsand coils. This all did help with better acceleration, but did not fix the problem. I have been leaning toward the ECM as it will throw a code 41 also as well as the wire harness to the TPS will code 41. I also read that the fuel pump is a two stage unit. It has a normal pressure and a higher one for more aggressive acceleration. Anyone else heard of this? It was in a British car mag for LS400 diagnostics. I am interested to hear what was going on with your ls that prompted you to replace the ECM and the Mass air flow unit. And did your car do this before the change? If not I would put the old ECM back in and see if it still does it. If you go with the dealer please post their findings. There has not been any post except yours that matches my specific problem. Good luck, Walt

I have a 93ls also. Sorry to hear of your trouble. Read the diag. code. Do a search on this forum. There has been a lot of info on this in the past. Also some people have said that cleaning the MAF has helped. Also posted on this site. If you have any mech. ability. You can do much of this yourself. Look at TAP recycling for parts. A salvage yard in Calif. with toyota and Lexus parts. The MAF can be changed in about 10 minutes. If you don't know the prior maintance of your car. You need to look at new plugs, wires, caps ( there are 2 ) and rotors. While you have the car apart you should go ahead and replace the 2 coils. If fact this may be part of the issue with lack of power. These car will run on 4 cyls. be it slow. Before you you do any tune up. You should look at cleaning the throttle valve and body. So you don't foul the new plugs. This will not solve the prob. but will help by using Seafoam injector cleaner on 1/4 tnak of gas. Or go for BG44K from the toyota/Lexus dealer. Will clean the injectors. This helped mine greatly. Also a simple task is to clean the EGR of any carbon build up. The ECM (computer ) is around $1400.00 new. There are rebuilders around that charge $200.00 to fix. and one is $300.00 for a lifetime guarentee. My 93 had 93,000k on it a year ago when I got it. I have spent prob. 6-7 hundred on it since. plugs, wires caps, rotors,coils, BG44K, seafoam, TPS, Cleaning the throttle body, new in line and in tank fuel filters. ect... Am I unhappy? NO, this is a great car. Even if I spend an average of $100.00 per month. Where could I get any other car that is this great for that price? Good luck!