93ls400walt

Mine seems to be in that MPH range. I do not have a constant chug just one or two every now and then. To check: Use either DLC turn ignition switch on, do not start push O/D button on use wire to jump E1 and TE1 on the DLC read the O/D light flashes I have cel code 42 for No 1 vehicle speed sensor

sounds like a bad coil check the driver side coil as this one seems to go out first. When one goes out the engine runs on 4 cyls. and wil run hot.

hove you checked for any trans. codes? My 93 ls does this now and then I have a trans code ( read off of the O/D light ) showing a code for one of the vehicle speed sensors.

GREAT tip on the inspection for the cost of an oil change. I do almost all of my own maintenance. But do need some diagnostic guidance.

Sorry to hear you need to let go of your ls. These are beautiful wonderful autos. My 93ls is looking at some expensive maintenance and repair work. And the thought has occurred to me if it's time to move on. But thankfully not yet for me. Walt

The Tach not working on occasion is very common. But I have not read about anyone having the needle showing a false high RPM. There is a prob with the wire harness that runs through the driver side trunk hinge. Causing various weird elect. probs and even trans. shifting probs. pull the black trim piece from the trunk hinge and unwrap the tape and loosen the fasteners that hold the wire harness past the sharp "U" turn of the wires and check for broken or stretched/damaged wires. Do this with the battery disconnected and splice in new wire for any questionable areas. need more info? do a forum search and look at www.lexls.com also

You can search mechanics on the web page for Car Talk. Post zip code and how far you are will to travel. It will bring up shops with customer reviews.

I've not had any probs. with the EGR pipe. But have read others who have posted. Most have said the issue was the smell and noise. One thought is that the oil would be a bit thinner when the engine is hot. And may more easily pass by any worn valves or seals. Thus not shifting properly????

Thanks fsuguy !

The ls has a large amp alter. I believe around 100 amps. if your shop did not rebuild according to the amp flow the replacement parts may not hold up. The earlier year ls has a problem with the wire harness on the drivers side trunk hinge. Specifically at the sharp bend of the harness. Where the wires tend to break. This causes many strange problems with lights, trans shifting ect. Most worse when the brakes are applied.

It seems a common issue is the coils (2) Primarily the drivers side coil. Gives lack of power and the un-burnt fuel would give you the odor. Others state the with the lack of power the is rough running. Can you add any other symptoms ?

make sure all of the sensor connections are plugged in and secure. Like the connector for the MAF. And vac hoses are connected.

#63 is covered by the tranny pan which will need to be removed #67 is on the outside of the tranny on the drivers side near the front For the EGR I would look at removing it for a good cleaning, check for leaks / replace the vac hoses

look at www.lexls.com click on the tutorials the ignition link. look at the links that open for how to replace the plugs and wires

The code will also show if there is a short in the wire harness and the bottom line in the factory manual is always check the ECM

www.techinfo/toyota.com For $10.00 a day or like 30-50 bucks for a month you can download all the info from the factory repair manuals you want. And scan through TSB's

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The sensor unscrews and when you remove it you'll find an O-ring around the top thread area. Be sure to get one the exact diameter and thickness of the ring. Or you will not be able to screw the sensor all of the way in. If you can wait just order one from Lexus. This fixed my leak.

I've not hears of #'s 2&3. I bought a used cluster that the prior owner had rebuilt. That was 2 years ago. Mine always works but sometimes the tach and more often the speedo will take a while to pop up. The speedo I usually have to get above 50 mph for it to work. So I am not sure the money is worth it as this may not be a long term fix. Also my gas guage had stopped working ( another issue in cold weather ) but my friend that sold me his cluster had addressed this.

I don't think a leaking egr pipe will throw a code. Factory manual states a bad step motor will not throw a code. The gas temp sensor or the ECM will throw code . I would remove the EGR and clean it as my first step. I

This issue can cause many of these things per other post. Hope this is the fix

Other than no fuel. The idle is controlled by the IACV. If you can keep the rpm up with the gas peddle I'd look at the iacv.

Maybe one of the coils. check drivers side first.

Sounds like the famous problem with the trunk hinge wires. Find the wires that run through the drivers side trunk hinge ( pull the black trim piece from the hinge) and trace it toward the back window. remove the clips and hangers, untape and look for cracked or broken wires. Splice in new wire to repair this. Most common wire is the white one where it connects in a sharp U at the hinge. Search trunk wire on this forum also.

Sounds like one of your coils. The one on the drivers side seems to go bad most often.