93ls400walt

Thanks, The acceleration is smooth and steady. Not raising the rpm over 2k. My ls 's fluid looked pink on the dip stick and did not have a burnt smell. But what I drained out of the trans. into a clear jar it looked burgendy and a bit cloudy. It was not pink and translucent. The filter is a screen that can be cleaned and reused. My local dealer does not sell pan gaskets. They, as the book does, rec. a sealant for the pan. There is a shift solioned that is known to go "bad" maybe this is what we are both looking at.

I have had my car for only the last 10,000 miles. The first owner did all services up to 60,000 miles. After that it was sold and no further lexus records exist. What speed does yours shift?

My 93ls shifts from first to second at 10 mph under normal acceleration from a stop. With a bit of a jolt. Like a slight lull then catching gear. Any thoughts? 93ls 103,000 miles. Somewhat smoother after a recent fluid change. I flushed through the trans cooling hose. But did not drop the pan to clean the filter screen. Prob. answered my own question there on the jolt. But is that speed shift normal?

Hello again Canada, I received the British car mech. mag. The one with the ls 400 diag. info. Just 2 1/2 pages. I did not find much usefull info. in it. Though it did however discuss the general lack of power prob. Though there is usually a fault code for the cam/crankshaft position sensors. The problem often is with the Alt/power steering belt having worn the insulation off the wires and letting them short out. This causes the ecu to set a lower Rev limit. And causes the phasing of the fuel injectors the be non-sequential. Also stated is the poss. of the timming belt having "jumped" a notch. Or missfitted during a new instalation. Just another area to look at. Walt

Give us an update. And please give any tips or tricks to changing all of these parts. I am planning on changing mine in the near furtue. And I want ot do it myself. Thank, Walt

There is a KICK DOWN SWITCH for the transmisson. Not much info in the manual. It is located on the floor board under the gas pedel. It ( I think ) is suppose to "kick down" the transmisson. When you press on the gas pedel to increase your speed when the throttle valve is already fully open. The book does not list any tests for this. I hope someone has some more info on this.

HI Canada, I do not know for sure if the particals removed via seafoam will do any harm to those componets. What I do know is that In the year that I have owned my Ls. I have used seafoam at least six times. As well as a can od BG44K from the Toyota dealer. Most of those times it was with a full tank of gas. I onlynoticed a slightly smoother idle. Then about one month ago I used seafoam with 1/4 tanke of gas. After 1/2 hour if driving I had a significant improvement in my acceleration. No time trials or anything like that. But I no longer had the feeling that upon acceleration that I was " pulling " a mobile home behind me. And it has remained since then with improved acceleration. I am sure that it is possible but unlikely that any deposits removed could affect your plugs, cats &O2's. The thread that I read on seafoam fouling plugs, ect. was when you used it via the brake vaccum hose. Sucking 1/4 cup into the air intake chamber. If the dealer has cleaned your injectors. I am not sure of any added benifit of running it through the entire fuel system. But my feeling is that it could not hurt. And it my help if there are any flow restricting deposits prior to the injecters. Has your timming been looked at? As far as advancing under acceleration? Also is your trasmission shifting up gears at the correct speed and throttle position? I don't know those answers. It would have to be looked at by someone who knows the specs. The is a performance shop in my town that has a Dynomometer ( spelling ). It is where you put the car onto a rack with the rear wheels on rollers. And the engine electronics are connected to a computer. You then run car under different acceleration speeds. Your horse power ect can been determined. And is used for fine tunning race cars/street rods. I am planning to see if the will inspect my ls. Their cost is &150.00us. for a tune on the machine. Good luck, Walt

Look at the site: www.lexls.com Click the tutorials link. Scan dowm to the Body electrical site and click on. Then click on the Inst. cluster R&R link. Scan the the bottom and look for the sentence about starting your car with the cluster out and the air bag light on. Click on the link of How to turn the air bag light off. I used this it took me many, many, many tries to get the correct timming down, But it did work for me.

I just replaced my water valve on my 93ls. It is simple but you will need some special tools. To get to the hose clamp on the vertical hose, the one closest to the fire wall, I bought a combo pack of a very long stright needle nose plier and an angled tip of the same length from Sears, $14.00. Get some new heater hose, I beleive it is 3/4 inch. I bought 4 new hose clamps, the screw type just in case. The only one of the clamps that I rep;aced tho was the top vertical clap the one with the cotter pin. And the two nuts holding it to the firewall are 10mm. Unclip the cable and slide it off the pin. Remove the top hose first and prop upright to keep any fluid from running out. There was hardly any on mine. And I did not drain the radiator. Remove the two nuts. I cut the vertical hose in half after I could not slide it off the connecter. The used a knife to split the hose down the middle. Then it peeled off easy. Carefull the connecter is made of soft metal. I fit the new vertical hose onto the new valve with a new clamp. And pre placed the old spring clamp onto the middle of the hose. Make sure the squeze points are facing in a direction that you can reach with the needle nose pliers. Then bolt the valve to the fire wall. slide the vert. hose onto the the connecter and slide the clamp into position. Now connect the upper hose to the valve and clamp. Turn the car on and set the fan on and the temp to MAX cool. Shut car off, Move the are of the control valve clockwise to the stop point, Around a six o'clock position, Push the cable backward to hte point where it will slide onto the pin connecter on the arm. Hold it there and secure the cable by snapping the clip over the cable locking it to the valve bracket. Start the car and check for leaks. 30-40 minutes total time to replace. I did not drain the radiator and did not loose more than a cup of collent. And do this job with the engine cold.

I ran the car with 1/4 tank and the seafoam before filling up. I drove about 100 miles like this then filled up. I noticed a hugh difference in engine response within the first 30 minutes. I have not checked my MPG since. But I am totally thrilled with the increased performance. And I am assuming that the MPG will be better since the engine is running more efficent. The idea is to run it at a more concentrated state. The instructions on the can states something close to: use with a full tank for maintance. Use with around 8 gals. for cleaning.

Welcome! You now will have an awsome car. And by the way you were talking I see that you are already hooked.

The best result I obtained was when I used it with aroud 1/4 tank of gas.

The web site dosen't say if it is a 4-wheel alingment. The timming belt change was listed for around $490.00.

The lexls tutorial is for a newer modle year. The MAF on our year ls's are different. Some have posted that spraying electrial contact cleaner through the small holes will clean the mirror and sensor that are located at the top of these holes. I had not had the courage to try that yet. I don't know anything about the motor vac. But you may find the site www.bgprod.com usefull. They have shops that will pressure clean your fuel system with their products. And also clean the EGR system. Which I think is the motor vac concept.

What are you paying for an alingment at indy shops? The timming belt seams resonable. But the extras, Water pump, pullys,sensors, I'm sure would drive this up.

I have a 93ls and have had simular acceleration problems for the past 6 onths. I replaced the TPS, coils.wires, caps, rotors. plugs the intank gas screen the underbody fuel filter. Cleaned the throttle 3 times. Adjusted the tps multiple times. Changed vacum lines that I could see. Ran seafoam 5-6 times on a full tank of gas. Ran BG44k fuel cleaner Once on a full tank. All of these seamed to slightly improve my hesitation on acceleration problem. The most dramatic improvement, and I do mean dramatic, was when I ran Seafoam with just above 1/4 tank of gas. I accelerate now without the feeling that I am towing something. And the hesitation is very slight. And only now with hard acceleration. I would look into your fuel system.

The best result from Seafoam that I ever obtained. Was when I put it in with around 8 gal. of gas. Read the back of the can. It states that for maintaince use it with a full tank. For cleaning the fuel system, use it with 8-12 gals. I had a dramatic improvement in acceleration and peddle response. Haven't checked the MPG yet.

Thanks for the follow-up

There are washers/gaskets at the hose bolts that can/need to be replaced. Thsy can be the source of the leak. Also some have said by cleaning the screen thay have lowered the hose pressure. And the leaking has stopped.

It seems to be a very easy replacement part. But it is expensive. I think it's around 700-800 dollars. You may find a used on from the junk yard. Or from TAP in So. Cal. A lexus/toyota salvage yard.

I have seen the tutorials about cleaning the MAF sensor. But they have been for later model years. the MAF on my 93ls does not have the two transiters. There is nothing visible. It does have a "mirror" and a sensing light. to read the air flow, so to speak. On Club Lexus some have described spraying the cleaner through the small holes that lead to the mirror and light. And by doing this have eleminated their hesitation upon acceleration. Has any one cleaned their MAF sensor in this maner? If so what were your prior symptoms and your results? Thanks

Me to.

Consumer reccomended mechanics on www.cartalk.com. Look under mechanics files. Type in your zip code and how many miles you are willing to travel.

If you like the look, Do it. They can't be very hard to install.

The O2 sensors function different at different engine temps. I would look at this.