93ls400walt

My 93ls is similar. There is a slight shift jerk between 1st and 2nd. And if I try to accelerate other than painfully slow the rpm drops but does not stall. And the car loses any forward motion. If I press the gas pedal further while this is happening there is no engine response at all. If I let up on the pedal then try accelerating more slowly the rpm comes back and I move forward, though slowly. I have a code 41 and have replaced the TPS as well as complete tune-up, fuel filters, coils,seafoam, cleaned the throttle body a few times. I think it is the ECM. Someone a while back had this prob. on a 93. And had his ECM rebuilt for around $300.00 And his prob was resolved. Side note: every so often the car will run fine for a few days. No loss of power and man does it run soo much better and no shift jerk either. When running bad it failed the smog with high Nox. Re-tested during a good running period and it passed with flying colors. I plan to send my ECM out for repair as soon as there is some extra cash.

Hello, Welcome to the club! I surly do not have the skills that you have. But I have thought about what I would look at. Any corrosion at the connectors. Or at any ground points. Move any sensor/igniter wires around. Sounds like a intermittent short. I also have a 93ls with ECM/TPS code 41 problems. Replaced the TPS, now planning to have my ECM rebuilt. Good luck Walt

I have a 93ls with 123k miles. Past 2 years, new coil,wires, plugs, caps, rotors. multiple TB cleanings and many cans of seafoam. I get, at best, with the A/C off 15-16 mpg in the city with just myself in the car. But with 3-4 adults , a trunk full of luggage, and the A/C on, the mpg on the highway is always 25-26 mpg. I always reset the trip odom. at every fill-up. And use a calculator to find the mpg. I divide the miles driven by the number of gallons pumped.

If you can change the ECM, you can change your fuel pump. The hardest part is removing the back seat. It's bolted down by the seat belts. You ave to feel with your fingers between the bottom and upright sections to find them. And from the trunk pull down the panel opposite the upright section of the back seat to disconnect the wires. Once the back seat is out there is a round panel with around 10 bolts.. Remove them to pull the fuel pump out. If you can get one there is a gasket for the round panel and a very fine mesh screen on the intake of the fuel pump that should be replaced if your are going through all of this. You could have your fuel pressure checked, but this would probably cost as much as the fuel pump if you can get one for 100.00. There is a website that maybe someone here on the forum can recall the name. Where for around $10.00 you can down load sections of the lexus factory repair manual. Good luck

Look on www.troublecodes.net code 25 is for lean air fuel ratio. Maybe O2 sensors?

The switches sometimes get dirty contacts. They can be removed and cleaned. Sounds like this may help if the issue returns. Do a search on speedometers for info on this common prob.

I agree that you prob. would not notice any difference since you did not have any filters in. My point is that my filters were so clogged that the air flow was very restricted

I had started to become concerned about my A/C. Was not blowing out strongly and did not feel very cold. This is an issue here in the desert where I live. I had new filters sitting in the garage that I bought a few months back when I ordered a few on-line parts. So last week I was looking for something to do. So I thought of the filters. They were hard to pull out, so I thought something must be wrong. It was, they were so old the case was coming apart. Had to use pliers to pull them out. (Put a newspaper on the floor under the dash you will be glad you did ) The new ones slid right in. Went for a ride, maybe around 90 degrees with the sun out, I had to turn the blower down to med. because I was getting frozen out. Medium now blows out harder than it was doing on high. And maybe I am delusional but the air seems much colder and has a clean feel on my hand when I hold it in front of a vent. I would have to clean the windshield above the dash vents frequently because a film would build up every couple of weeks. A big improvement for the time and money. Walt

Look on the web site Cartalk.com

Can the crankshaft position sensor leak oil? My 93ls 120k looks like there is oil coming from there. It is a bit oily around there but no drips. I only find a nickel size drip on the garage floor in the mourning.

Look on the Lexus factory web site. You can find info. and post e-mail questions to them.

Can anyone explain what the lock-up clutch does. And what happens when it is not working properly ? My 93ls with 120k miles sometimes has a slipping feeling when shifting from 1 to 2, Feel the shift, then 1-2 seconds it engages. Also sometimes if I accelerate to fast at any speed the car looses all forward acceleration, the RPM drops , until I let off the gas and re-accelerate more slowly. It feels as if the trans. disengages when this happens. Any thoughts?

Goggle Park Place Lexus-Plano. Tx. They have an on-line parts store. New fuel pump around 2 hundred dollars. Easy to replace after removing the back seat to get to the fuel tank.

Does anyone think the smoke with particulate matter from the carbon damages the catalytic converters? or O2 sensors? I want to do my ls soon, as it's getting time to change the plugs, but I am concerned about the above.

Timing belt may have broke since it will not start now. If it starts and runs bad still could be the tining belt, but except for the banging, could be a bad coil. the one on the drivers side is known to go out and then the car only runs on 4 of the 8 cyls. Just remove the tining belt covers and look to see if the belt is broke our skipped a notch or two. search timing belt or lexls.com to see info on cam sprocket/belt alingment if belt is not broke

You can use any similar sized reinforced hose that is graded for automatic trans. fluid. Don,t recall the size, I took my res. to autozone and found a proper hose to fit. Buy more length than you need. Connect it to the incoming line then route it to the res. with a gentle curve, no kinking, and cut off the extra. New hose clamps won't hurt either.

The old return hose was original and very short and stuck. I had to cut it off. So for a couple of bucks it's worth replacing while your at it

What was advised to me was that the O-Ring from the reservoir where it connects to the P/S pump was leaking. In fact mine was and as it is under the flange it is hard to see. It then runs down and covers the high pressure bolt and so it looks like the hose is leaking. I wiped everything off and stuffed a clean paper towel all around and under the flange of the res. drove some and let it sit. The paper towel was wet iwth p/s fluid and the pressure hose bolt was dry. Also, I could see p/s fluid welling up at the top round indentation on the pump body. ( at the top of the pump, coil side, 180 degrees from the high pressure bolt. This is where the high pressure valve/spring assembly fits. and the is an O=Ring on that end also. So I had 2 leaks. I bought a seal kit for $24.00 from park place lexus. I only replaced the external o-rings and not the bearing or shaft seal You need a vise and slide hammer to do this. I Fixed all of my leaks. You can request an additional res. o-ring which I did and was glad of that as on re-assembly the o-ring broke as I was inserting the res to the pump body. If you do this loosen all bolts that you can while the unit is still on the car. Especially the high pressure nut that the hose banjo washer attach to. the You really need a vise though to remove the 4 bolts holding the pump body together. need 1) seal kit 2) extra 0-ring 3) banjo washer r 4) stuff for de-airing flush, new low pressure hose, vise, torq. wrench 5) lots of hand cleaner

Glad it's fixed. I have gotten in trouble a few times by doing more than one repair at the same time. Then having a problem and not sure which repair was at fault. But I keep doing it!

I doubt that the engine would start if the rotors were 180 off. I recently rebuilt my p/s pump and new alternator added. I had a very hard time de-airing after the install. Finally on some advice from friends on this forum. I jacked the front end off the ground, placed a drain hose from the return line to a pan, and proceded to hand turn the wheels prob. more that 50 times in each direction. Until no air bubbles in the hose. I used a clear hose and had to cut it as short as possible because the fluid/air would not always exit the hose into the pan. And when you turn the wheel in the opposite direction it will suck some fluid back toward the pump with the air also. I did have the end of the hose under p/s fluid. After cutting the hose back I finally cleared all air. I had tried to de-air with the engine running on and off for a couple of days. Still had an awful groaning sound with just the engine running and with turning the wheel a high pitched squeal. After the manual de-airing I started her up and she was as quite as could be. Also I made this mistake but fixed it before re-installing the pump. I had put the pressure valve in backwards ( where the high pressure hose attaches ) It fits in the spring better that way so I thought that was they way for it to go. But re-checked the pics and saw it was wrong. You also could, but doubt, have a bad new bearing. But that should not affect your engine power. Caps and rotors can get cracked on install. check that you are not off on one or more of your ignition wire placements. Also, it could be possible that with the pump r&r or the new serp. belt you could of loosened a crank sensor wire. Good luck

lexls for DIY info Park place lexus Plano TX. for on-line decent price parts. They have drop down boxes for each part category some with pics and all with prices. www.troublecodes.net for OBD 1 and 2 Cel code info TAP automotive toyota and lexus bone yard in LA yes the will ship Maybe someone can give the site for downloading the repair manual, all or part for the daily fee?

41 is TPS, wiring harness or ECM. My 93 has that code, no cel light, replaced the TPS but still have the code. TPS=throtle position sensor. Is your car acting up? What is it doing if so? Mine has slower acceleration and the rpm will drop a few hundred and the car looses acceleration ( kind of like it slips into neutral ) if I accelerate to fast. If I let off the gas and re-accelerate more slowly it is fine but just has slightly less power.

Thanks I'll lube her up.

My key hangs now and then. ( even when the wheels are straight ) when I try to turn the key to start her up. Wiggling the wheel does not help. Will the graphite affect sensors in the ing. switch ? 93ls400

YES, It was the new o-ring. No more leaks after changing it out. Raised the front end and did the flush by turning the wheels back and forth by hand. Small learning curve. Have to do this very slowly as you will just keep getting air bubbles coming out otherwise. ( thank you bigste for that advice ) After going slow and no more air of any kind out. I put the hose back on. Started her up and quite as could be. Went out for a drive. What a difference in the feel of the steering. It is wonderful. Side note though, after the res. o-ring leak which let fluid run onto my alternator, prob. half a quart, the battery indicator light is back on. Since the brush contacts have half of the copper worn off I think I am going to replace the alt. with a new one and not pull it out to spray clean it again. I think the spray would work. But I plan to keep this car forever and am sure the alt. will go out in the near future because of the loss of copper contact. It appears not to have worn off, but to have flaked off. as the edges are not smooth they are like a big " paint chip " if you will. Thanks you all for your advice. It really did help. Walt