ko90ls

PIAA's and silverstar's are not xenons. xenons need a ballast, ignitor and xenon bulb. more than likely those bulbs are HO halogens. if you did place a true xenon kit in your headlight housing the output would SUCK. the light would scatter everywhere and blind incomming drivers. the best way to use true xenons would be to retrofit. lots of info on HIDplanet.com; this would also cost up to $1000 depending on which route you go and requires LOTS of MODDING. i'm in the process of a retrofit on the lighting forum but due to the high cost i had to place it on the back burner. my suggestion spend $40 and get the PIAA's / Silverstar's or get a nice notepad and a large check book and learn how to retrofit on hidplanet. :D Good Luck!

check the tranny throttle cable under the hood. if it too loose then the car thinks you are on the gas while shifting. there is a thread started by Jzz or Jibby. search and you will find! Good Luck!

the temp is consistent meaning that the temp doesn't go up or down while driving. i thought it may be the Prestone coolant? i also have a head gasket leak which slowly leaks oil onto the exhaust manifold. i think that is more of the issue. will change soon! i was gonna change the coolant back to toyota red also, and add a new aluminum core radiator just in case. I've read that alum core is the best quality and come standard on the '93+ so i figure why not? Dont think it' the waterpump but i'm gonna add that too. am i over doing it? and one more thing, i was gonna check and adjust the valves while i do the gasket. is this necessary? and should i use SST A and B or is there any better tools? Thanks

Bad news over here... if you count the bottom line then my engine goes to the fourth line (4) never ever has over heated but should i be worried

not %100 sure but i think i saw a recall on the starters of 98 models. I'm sure that the SC was affected but common sense would say that the LS is also? did you look into that? may be able to get a new OEM starter with no expiramentation? Just a thought... Good Luck!

pretty sure my new amp is 100 watts. also pretty sure all LS alt's are also 100 watts (All same engine). but to be %100 sure call Lexus and ask. the part numbers may be different though (used for product tracking mainly) then call a local parts supplier (autozone, pep boys) and see what you find. P.S. fix PS leak, very easy! replacing alt, not as easy.

88K huh? sounds like you need a good ole tune up! did you check to see if it was done? if not then that's prob why it was sold (costs about $1500-2000 at a Stealer, indie for about 800 ish) CONGRATS!

just got the new GS brochure today, and it states that the front air bags actually senses the distance of your seat from the steering wheel to apply the correct amount of air pressure! here's the real kicker IT's STANDARD! YES! and add in the optional PCS...

that first pic is funny, just make sure there are no illegal procedure penalties! :D

Why don't you share some of that spinach, Pop-eye? :D

i'd say bead! the oil touches the whole gasket not just the corner??? just kinda makes sense to me...? no expert here though.

personally, when i cleaned the solenoid about a ounce of PS fluid came out. i used a standard oil drain pan to catch the stuff but could've prob used a foam cup. i say this so that you may get the idea that the solenoid is not messy and actually is VERY EASY! just be patient and wait for the fluid to drain or clean the PITA and replace before the fluid stops? really doesn't matter! Good Luck! P.S. i'd search all forums everytime! ALL of these cars share components!

almost forgot that Breaker Bar!

open the hood and you'll see a pic of how the belt loops all the various pulleys. hope you have help getting it on (helps a lot) Good Luck!

Mr. Smith that is the good old fashioned idle up valve! the connector to the Air intake pipe i think controls the idle and the other one i'm not sure about. but i am sure that Lexus charged me about $40 bucks for the tube. the Idle up valve should cost about $95. and the hose connecting to the intake i'm not sure about. GET THE IDLE UP VALVE ASAP. the hoses do connect to those capped off spots directly, which explains why they are capped. More than likely the Idle Up Valve is bad and that's why they are disconnected. Good Luck! One more thing the port on the valve that is closer to the front of the car connects to the front of the intake chamber (chamber not pipe). the one closest to the back of the car to the pipe!

pretty sure your valve is the same as the LS version (same pump, engine, etc) don't know how hard it is but the LS forum has TONS of info on this! honestly i don't think the engine is bad, i think the info is bad! too much potential $$$$ at hand. if a rebuilt is needed i mave 1uz-fe overhaul instructions (hopefully not though) :D Good Luck!

have the electrical system checked. sounds like the alt is slipping. mine would work only over 2000 rpm's, no matter if i'm standing still and revving or moving. the next one worked over 1000 rpm's. but battery discharge light only may be a fuse? Good Luck!

i'd clean the solenoid filter on the steering rack and flush the power steering fluid. when flushing i performed a lock-to-lock method of draining th fluid and didn't really have to bleed the air out of the system... there was none! also if the fluid is leaking then do it now! could kill alt

is the puller type fan best? i would think the OEM is puller... but why would it pull then... i don't know? :( what's the difference between the two? and how do they affect the car? thanks

but it is easier with a third hand. wise words! if you try and do the tension yourself then i'd route everything except the edge of the ac compressor ( route the bottom, may not be able to do the sides) turn the key, but don't start. this moves the belt. go back and check and see if everything is routed correctly. if not readjust and turn the key slightly again! But it is easier with a third hand! also look for Dayco.

thread, i think it was just a fluke. the alternator(s) are rebuilt bosch, but the back of the case (where connector plugs in) said ND, so i think they just rebuilt a Denso Alt? i got it from pep boys for $160+55 core and a lifetime warranty (KEEP RECEIPT) when i first brought in the PS fluid dead one, they "couldn't find my info in the system?" HUH? oh well... <_< replaced with fluke, and then replaced with Good Alt (asked to check at store)! personally i wanted to go the arkansawer route on the first dead alt but lifetime warranty! honesty i think pep boys just sends them to a local rebuilder and puts the bosch stickers on there!?

since i spent the last three days working on the solenoid and alternator, then the new alt was defective, i had to take it off twice so i decided to take some pics to help others. 1) remove battery cover, front air intake, and air filter element, and serpentine/drive belt 2) remove negative battery cable 3) Remove passenger tire 4) remove top 14mm bolt now go under the car and remove under cover 5) there are 5(five) 10 mm bolt that will help if removed 5a) the passenger side cover/splash gaurd 5b) the 2(two) bolts that hold the High pressure hose onto the oil pan 5c) the bolt (it's sorta hidden) that holds the tranny lines?(also connects to the lower alternator bolt) 5d) the bolt on the driver side under the oil filter 6) remove lower 14mm alternator bolt 7) remove three (maybe four) 8mm nuts/bolts that hold alternator cover (i used lexus trunk wrench) allow to drop 8) remove bolted connector on top/side: 12mm (i'd suggest wrench) 9) wiggle through wires and things (i rotated the pulley upward and twisted the alt back and forth until it fell thru) !WARNING! watch your face! 10) remove last connector! DONE! i also took a pic of the under side of the PS Pump for anyone to see the bolts the long screw on the right is for the top of the alternator, but you should be able to see the nuts on the PSPump! Good Luck!

Here you go Monarch and others. the pic shows the line on the left edge of the solenoid. the pic isn't too good but you should be able to make it out. P.S. i took the tire off

the blake method sounds best to me. i'd try removing the sub woofer and maybe use a long wire to "fish" the keys out. of course this depends on how much stuff is in the trunk! Good Luck!

ok guys, this car has gotten the most out of my time here, and seeing as i've just got fired (long story) i was thinking about going to school to be a grease monkey, then starting a Lexus exclusive (or japanese/import) tuner shop!? now the grease monkey certification is instant $$$$$ but how would you guys feel about going to a Lexus only body shop, where the owner has your car and know lots about it? or would you feel better going to the dealer (assuming you aren't a DIY) because you know they work on cars day-in day-out? the idea sounds good to me (i live in a Highly Lexus populated city, but both dealerships are owned by the same parent company and they charge $110/hr; i was quoted $60 or $100 for oil change SHARKS) plus any ideas on a Title/name to attract other owners and let them know i specialize? P.S. most toyota dealers hear Lexus and get affraid (i think they are paid by afore mentioned sharks to act this way). even if you are a DIY assume you needed a certified Tech. Thank You