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ko90ls

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Everything posted by ko90ls

  1. Lexus doesn't offer the manual to download even if you had a US address. I went and registered at Lexus.com and had a manual sent for free from a dealership in STL (or somewhere). i think it's better since i can put it in my car, and there are no more 1st Gen Ls4's being built so i guess they send out the extras/old ones? But go ahead and register at Lexus.com and get a free book!
  2. from my research the Tokicos are highly rated for custom/performance setup. The stock strut is KYB. the only strut mounts available are KYB. the general agreement is that the KYB give you a stock feel, ie. nice and soft! the Tokico gives you a more performance feel, ie. firm and secure. guess it's up to personal preference. but GR-2's i think are repackaged or even upgraded stock struts (could be wrong) Sorry to hijack your post but do strut mounts need to be changed?
  3. it would help if you added more info. sounds like a vacuum leak but who knows? do you rpm's drop? is the car just not acc? does the "check engine" light come on, if so there is a code. i have a diagnostic article about testing w/ or w/o codes?
  4. prob the valve cover gasket. Here's a tutorial http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/valvecover.html The FIPG should be the black stuff which resists oil but the red will do.
  5. More Updates! Wet Sanding using 320 grit paper. I cut the paper into little strips in order to use the most since the glass is curved. I'm gonna hit it with the 320 again then move on to the 400 and 600. Does anyone know where to find higher grit paper like up to 2000. I got the three I'm using from home depot but 600 is the max. Here's the pics glass is not polished just a little wet to give the polished look
  6. More Updates! Wet Sanding using 320 grit paper. I cut the paper into little strips in order to use the most since the glass is curved. I'm gonna hit it with the 320 again then move on to the 400 and 600. Does anyone know where to find higher grit paper like up to 2000. I got the three I'm using from home depot but 600 is the max. Here's the pics glass is not polished just a little wet to give the polished look
  7. http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/autop...part=P%2FS+Pump Here's your link. if you search you should find instructions on removal. I have the directions for a 90 which should be similar. let me know if you wanna check them out. And do a search for the steering rack filter or you will be buying another soon!
  8. you can also find them here http://www.l-tunedparts.com/model/struct.p...=2&cat_id=7
  9. here is the headlight after many hours of grinding with the pictured flat grind stone. the headlight is not yet fully polished or sanded. the pic with the projector behind the glass is a preview of how it should look finished (hopefully clearer)
  10. when i first got my car it did the same. didn't notice since i bought in winter (actually was kinda nice) when summer came I got a steady stream of hot air. when i changed the spark plugs, wires, caps and rotors the issue was fixed.
  11. you could prob just replace the alternator at your friend's house. if you replace it then all you need to do is take off the 2 14mm bolts and the 10mm bolt that holds the tranny lines in position (on bottom alt bolt next to oil pan.) very simple, can be done with removing just the upper intake parts until the MAF and loosening the drive belt. then hit the 14mm and 10mm bolts and disconnect the plug in the back and the 12mm bolt. can easily be done with your lexus jack or car ramps. there is just enough room to drop the alt down and remove/install from under the car, just wiggle it a little.
  12. almost done dremelling. Stay tuned for pre-wet sand pics
  13. well, technically there are no oem bushings to buy. Lexus/Toyota only sells the whole UCA or LCA, with bushings installed, where the UCA costs $300 each but there are aftermarket UCA's for $200 (for both). so you can replace the bushings which is the more economical approach or UCA/LCA combo for big bucks.
  14. some updates about dremeling the headlight glass. the silicon carbide grind stone will leave scratches on the glass. that is where i currently am. the good news that this was done on a part time basis (very fast using dremel) and once the extra grooves are removed then i can polish and install the projectors!!! Here's some pics... Enjoy!
  15. sounds like you need some fuel injector cleaner or a tune up. 9 mpg is horrible. something is wrong under your hood. should be at lease 18-23 city-hwy. i noticed my fuel tank lasts longer now that i have upgraded to a Injen Intake from the SC400. unfortunately my car is a 90 and doesn't display any readings like avg mpg, but i did notice that longer trips don't hit the tank like they used to! I may fill up and do some simple math to see the real Avg MPG.
  16. one more thing the white residue on the front glass are mineral deposits (i think??? Grinding stone???)
  17. Sorry for taking so long guys, here are some updated pics! I used the heat gun to heat the putty that holds the headlight together. then using a knife and flathead screwdriver i took them apart. Went and picked up a dremel and some sand paper to de-line the headlight but found that the sandpaper is slow and the dremel w/ a "silicon carbide grinding stone" works best. The pics of the front glass are after just one stone on low speed (2). The manual says use it on fast (10) and i will later. My main issue right now is mounting the projectors in the housing. I am going to get some plexiglass and cut out a bracket using the curved template shown on the projector. then i will drill mounting holes and use the screws like sown in the pic of the old projector. Just a side note the mounting bracket is only for this type of projector. most have extra holes where mounting is simpler. Like always I'll keep you guys updated!!!
  18. if you radiator is cracked and leaking then you should buy a new radiator. don't really know the diff between plastic and metal tank except the plastic sound much lighter. I just got a new radiator for 260 but it is Koyo so i feel it's worth it. As for your Alternator, CHECK YOUR POWER STEERING PUMP! the hose is above the alt. and dripping fluid will kill the alternator. Do this B4 buying new alt (P.S. see if you can find one w/ Lifetime warranty) Welcome to the club
  19. it may be your rear main seal. the fix is on lexls.com but it involves dropping the tranny. I need this done also. very minor in terms of leak volume.
  20. And The Plot Thickens....... After waiting two hours and cleaning with the pb, the Positive battery terminal will not fit on the battery securely. The Nut has been tightened to the max but the top "ring" looks loose (about 1mm) and the whole thing just slips off the battery..... the battery has worked fine for the last two years and the only thing I did to the battery cables was apply some Pep Boys Battery Terminal Lube. I'll post a pic soon. Could This cause my strange Electrical problems??????? :chairshot:
  21. there is an emergency door open tab in the trunk. it is supposed to work if your car dies. it should give you a temp fix.
  22. Quick Update... i've been reading that the battery cables may be corroded and causing the issues. so i went and sat in the car with the key in the ignition. with the key in off the "door ajar" light comes on. when turning the key to acc or on the "door ajar" light goes off and nothing happens. the car doesn't even have enough power to lock the doors? so after i removed the key the car makes a wierd click sound in two or more places (i listened this happens on both sides) the one area is the fuse box under the engine (can physically feel the click), but i cannot tell where the second is? after removing the battery cables the noise stopped but the positive cable was very hot......????? the car has sat since last night... and also the car alarm light flashes even though the car is unlocked and the only thing that will stop it is when the key is turned to acc, but nothing else comes on, no dash lights, interior lights, nothing??? I currently have the cables removed for cleaning (using PB Blaster, similar to WD-40) and i heard that removing the battery for 2 hours or more will reset everything. Has anyone else expirenced this issue??
  23. could be your starter? mine just went out. does the car click? also try resetting the Alarm system by locking the doors, waiting until the light has started blinking then unlock the doors. If your Alarm ECU has detected a "break in" it will disable the starter.
  24. Thanks for the help! I'm Pretty sure the alt is charging, because when the car was running everything was fine. I'm almost confident that the starter is the issue. while jumper cables were attached the car still wouldn't start. My repair manual says check the starter relay. i'll add the article, but i don't know where the starter relay is? i checked the fuses and CB's but don't see the relay? Is this important, it seems like the cheapest way to go.... starter.pdf
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