ko90ls

hello, i have a major problem. after changing the timing belt and water pump my car was running fine when it is running. first i forgot to plug the connector in the back of the alternator in and had to have the car jumped multiple times, and ended up pushing it home (short distance) after charging the battery and connecting the alternator the car started fine after a few clicks. drove about 30 miles to work and back late at night and everything was fine. that was friday night. today, i went to my friend's house, turned the car off but left the radio on, came back out and the car would not start and all power died? nothing worked. asked for a jump and started the car after a few clicks. my idle has been rough and today the car died while turning around. would not turn on. not click, no sound, nothing. checked the battery at auto zone(good), put in the car, and everything had power. went to start the car and one click and the car died. this time i had a little power but each time i put the key in the ignition the dash would not light, and the "door ajar" light was very dim. trying to start the car makes no sound, like the battery is dead. I also used some Pep Boys battery terminal lube on the cable. could this have killed the battery cables or is my starter dead and that is draining the battery?

check out this post before you buy a new ps pump. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...amp;hl=steering

look at my post on removing the crankshaft seal for instructions on removing the timing belt. what i would say is to remove the belt from the passenger side pulley then adjust the cam position and reinstall the belt.

here is a pic from lexls.com it shows the screw holes that i'm gonna try and use

Hi everyone! I am in the process of doing a TB/WP replacement and i want to do the crank seal so i need to do this asap. The Quote below is from the article for a 90 LS. First it details the crank shaft seal replacement and says to use the timing belt removal also: FRONT CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL Removal & Installation Remove timing belt. See TIMING BELT under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION in this article. Remove crankshaft timing pulley. Cut oil seal lip and pry seal from oil pump/front cover housing. Apply multipurpose grease to new seal lip. Use seal installer and tap in new seal until outer surface is flush with edge of pump case. Reverse removal procedure to complete installation. TIMING BELT Removal 1) Disconnect cable from negative terminal of battery and wait 20 seconds. Remove air duct and dust covers. Remove battery. Remove engine splash shield and drain engine coolant. Remove drive belt, fan, fluid coupling and fan pulley. Disconnect radiator upper hose from water inlet. Remove radiator and air cleaner. Disconnect air cleaner hose from intake air connector pipe. Remove air cleaner, airflow meter and hose assembly. 2) Remove throttle body cover and disconnect cables. Remove intake air connector pipe. Remove A/C compressor without disconnecting hoses and move it aside. Remove power steering pump without disconnecting hoses. Disconnect air hose from air intake chamber. Remove upper high tension wire cover. Remove right side engine wiring cover. 3) Remove left side engine wiring cover. Disconnect PCV hose from valve on left cylinder head. Remove right and left upper timing belt covers. Remove high tension wiring and clamps from distributor caps. Remove left side intermediate timing belt cover and ignition coil. NOTE: DO NOT pull or bend wiring, otherwise inside conductor may be damaged. 4) Remove drive belt idler pulley. Disconnect crank position sensor connector. Remove right side intermediate timing belt cover. Remove rubber caps from distributor cap. Remove ignition coil. Remove water by-pass hose and pipe. Remove left side intermediate timing belt covers. Disconnect crank position sensor wire from clamp on timing belt cover. Remove rubber caps from distributor cap. 5) Remove distributor caps. Remove distributor rotors. Remove distributor housings. Disconnect sensor connector from ignition coil bracket. Disconnect crank position sensor connector from engine wire. 6) Remove alternator. Remove drive belt tensioner located above alternator. Remove spark plugs. If reusing timing belt, check installation marks on timing belt. Ensure there are 4 installation marks on timing belt. See Fig. 13. If installation marks have disappeared, place new marks on timing belt before removing each part. 7) Position No. 1 cylinder at TDC (compression). Turn crankshaft pulley and align groove with "0" timing mark on lower timing belt cover. Ensure timing marks of camshaft timing pulleys and timing belt rear plates align. If not, turn crankshaft one revolution (360 degrees). See Fig. 12. 8) Remove timing belt tensioner. If necessary, place new installation marks on timing belt to match timing marks of camshaft timing pulleys. When replacing only timing belt tensioner, use a piece of string to tension timing belt. Place marks on timing belt and right camshaft timing pulley. Remove tensioner and dust boot. Preset tensioner before installing. 9) Loosen tension between left and right camshaft timing pulleys by slightly turning left pulley clockwise. Disconnect timing belt from camshaft timing pulleys. Remove camshaft timing pulleys. 10) Using puller, remove crankshaft pulley. Remove fan support bracket. Remove lower timing belt cover, spacer and gasket. Remove crank angle sensor plate, which also acts as timing belt guide plate. 11) Ensure installation reference marks are present. Remove timing belt. Remove lower idler pulley. Using puller, remove crankshaft timing belt pulley." first it shows to remove the timing belt which is why i included it. on #10 of the timing belt it says to remove the crank pulley which i have and in #11 is says use a puller to remove the crankshaft timing belt pulley. also on step #1 of the crankshaft seal it says the same thing. do i use the harmonic balance puller? the set of screw that was I have do not look like they will work and there is nowhere to position the center piece? anyone have any expirence with this?

might be the control valve which adjusts the power steering play based on speed. this or the fluid is low? maybe even check the steering rack filter

prob the a/c pulley? try lubing with PB Blaster or WD-40, both are safe for electrical components.

The Timing bet has been known to go further than 123K so you could wait if you wanted. The worse that could happen is that the belt will break leaving you or your wife stranded. no engine damage will be done. Look in the sticky about common problems for my price list, i did lots of research and found some very low prices on parts. most people buy the parts and have a mechanic do the hard work. also look at the tutorial here in the workshop or on www.lexls.com and see if you can handle it. Me, i'm 21 and just got the crank bolt off with the help of a ebay tool. here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/Toyota-Lexus-Harmonic-...7QQcmdZViewItem used some PB B'laster and a torque wrench+breaker bar; torque wrench to keep the tool from moving and the breaker bar to bust the bolt!!! positioned myself against the passenger side of the car and pulled until... Success! and the body roll can be minimized by replacing the sway bar bushings. $30+ the time it takes. check Lexls.com for this procedure also, but it is really simple. only other way is to replace the UCA/LCA bushings which can be a monster.

Mine was leaking form the PS return hose. if you remove the air intake covers and air filter and inspect the hose you may notice that the area is wet? if so then it is the pump. thought not too common it could be the High Pressure line also but probably not. the hose should be available at autozone, napa, pep boys, but the dealer will tell you that it is not available. also check the Steering rack filter. If you do a search for Power Steering Pump the thread should have about 5+ pages maybe even 10+ (ie huge thread, should be a Sticky) it details how to remove the filter clean and reinstall. REMEMBER THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP! most people buy a Whole new pump and this one fails also due to the clogged filter!!! Yes, it has been documented on this site. Good Luck!

As far as I know they must be built. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=27775 I am building mine. check out Clublexus.com for Lexus retrofits and Hidplanet.com/forums for info on HID retrofits in general

It depends on which year you have... but the tranny should be the same in general save some minor changes from year to year? here is a schematic on the tranny and it shows the speedometer sensor and the speed sensors (yes these are different) here's a pic of the speedosensor send from lexus-parts.com

Check to see if the "O/D Off" light flashes when the O/D is activated. If so then you need a new Speed-o-meter sensor on the transmission for about $270. that is just for the part and i got mine at lexus-parts.com but other dealers may sell for less.

Keep in mind that HID bulbs are rated by number of hours available (3000+) and the color of the light output will shift slightly over time. just remember this if the side with the new bulb looks brighter than the other. Congrats and Welcome Aboard!!!!!

no too many places available for aftermarket parts and those that do only carry a small line for the LS. check some of these out: www.lextasy.com www.l-tunedparts.com www.lexus-parts.com (dealer but caries some aftermarket) www.lextreme.com www.intensepower.com

there are two speed sensors on the tranny. i know cuz i bought both of them to find i needed the speedometer sensor. my O/D light flashed just like yours but my speedometer didn't work either. sorry don't have trac so no info on that light. the speed-o sensor fixed both problems.

I tried a tranny flush and all was good for a while then the tranny died. do the 2qts change at a time and be on the safe side.

when I got my 90Ls the speedometer wasn't working. needed a new "Speedometer Sensor" $270

might wanna post in the SC430 forum. will prob have some luck

i think if you dont change the control arm bushing then the control arm can bend over time and require a whole new control arm. just for you to know the aftermarket Daizen bushing kit is 100 for the front(both sides) and the upper control arms are 300 each! the rear are a little more but the bushings cannot be purchased at the dealer they only sell the whole arm. that might be why they told you that. but there is a post on the LS forum about a set of aftermarket control arms for about 200 for both sides. but i'd say get the Daizens a grease them up good!

if you diy then it is basically the timing belt/water pump replacement. no water pump needed but you will need to remove the timing belt to remove the cam seals and the crank seal is under the crank pulley. not too difficult, just time consuming. you should be fine having swapped engines and trannys before.

i'd check lexus-parts.com or parkplacelexus.com low prices, easy install (at lease on LS)

what octane fuel do you use? have you cleaned the throttle body lately? sounds strange to me... <_<

I just got a brand new koyo radiator from etyparts.com for about 260. check out autopartsplace.com and rockauto.com for others.

My car used to jump when shifting too. Also while driving on the freeway and starting the cruise control the pedal would readjust to the correct position like the linkage was off. turned out to be the case, adjusted my throttle cable and every thing was fine. transmission_servicing_at.pdf

got the projectors, here some pics.