VBdenny

it is REALLY easy to break the plastic extension. You need to have the angle correct and a little luck. I broke mine taking it off required some JB Weld.

I bought snow tires mounted on nice Alloy rims for my ES330 last year. The total cost was around $750 USD delivered. I would stick very close to the original size, I went up from a 215/60/16 to a 225/60/16. When buying snow tires I would not buy any with a "Q" speed rating as they will be to squirmy on your SUV. You probably already have looked on tirerack.com but if not, go on a read the reviews and ratings for each. As to the Oldsmobile rims, I had not idea they would fit a Lexus.

I can't speak for Lexus but a friend had a Buick that they low tire pressure indicator light came on. I fixed the leak in the tire and set all the pressures but the light stayed on. I looked in the owner's manual and it described the procedure for turning it off. Worth a look

I have repaired the wire twice and yes it is common since the wire bends right at that point. I figured they would have corrected that problem by the 2000 model year. Do you notice shifting issues?

I use irontoad.com for Lexus parts. They sell Toyota factory brake pads and parts. I have bought several things from them even recently and they are professional, fast and inexpensive.

Good luck finding one. When I put my Sirius in the car I looked all over for a hot wire and didn't find any. Not sure why Toyota doesn't put an always hot outlet like Nissan does.

Oh you just have to love a road trip and it sounds like you have a great one planned. I hope you have your V-1 ready as there are people out there looking to spoil road trips. I am looking forward to colder weather so I can start taking my LS on road trips again. I kind of park it in the summer since the AC is shot. I usually average around 27 MPG driving alone with a light load at 75-85 MPH.

Once when my car was really hot from being parked in the sun, I could see the display. I wa amazed the clock was still correct after not being seen for a few years.

My first suspicion would be the tires. As far as the shaking not being noticed at other speeds, that is not unusual. My friend once had a car that shook like a bandit between 60-80 but when you got up to 85 or 90 and at slow speeds it was fine. He got off the Thruway one time and one of the ball joints just dropped. There are so many things that can cause shaking. I would have an alignment done and see what they say. If there is bad parts, it will show up.

yes. I have two keys for my car. The remote works fine in one but the not in the other. I put new batteries in both and even switched them just to test yet one keys doesn't work. Strange but when I opened them up, the guts were considerably different.

My wife buys Coach purses in Chinatown in NYC. In fact I think she is there right now. They are bootleg but only $35-$50 and they last as long as the real things. They do not come with a liftime warranty though, once you give them the cash, you got it.

I have replaced on in my 90 but yours are different. How'd you like the price of the bulb?

Find a local Toyota dealer that does not also have a Lexus dealership. I just had all the fluids changed on my car for $250 at a major Toyota dealer. Brake fluid, Transmission gear oil, power steering, cooling system, everything but the engine oil since I do that. Lexus dealers RIP you off for preventitive maintenance work. I would even be comfortable going to a Nissan or Honda dealer if they have good ratings. There is a website on dealer ratings somewhere out there. My local Lexus dealer, Charles Barker Lexus, was rated 1.5 on a 5 point scale. I used them once and was not happy. To answer your original question, no, you do not need to do any of these things and your car will be fine. It really depends more on how long you plan to keep it and does having things perfect give you satisfaction. It does me.

If you haven't done so you, take your car over to Autozone or Advance and they will lend you an OBDII for free. Bring something to take notes with as it gives codes and descriptions of any information entered. I have used this on several occasions. Free, free, free, that is the key. Your problem almost sounds like a fuel issue? If you use bottom tier gasoline on a routine basis your throttle body could be not ideal. I would add 2 cans of Valoline Complete Fuel System cleaner (about $10) to your tank. I have had a lot of success with that. Since I began usuing only Top Tier fuels several years ago, I no longer have fuel system issues. Next, have you (or your wife) ever run the car out of gas? Very very bad for your fuels pump to let gas tanks get low, especially in the summer. Those fuel pumps work hard and they heat up. The gasoline in your tank is what cools them and when you run out, they can be compromised. I never let my tank get lower than 1/4 although my wife is another issue. She ran a Chevy Caprice I had out of fuel a couple times and a year later while on the Jersey Turnpike, late on a Sunday night, I go the same symptoms you described which got worse and work until I was parked and towed. No fun, not a bit. The bill for the fuel pump replacement wasn't any fun either, around $600.

When at temperature, my 90 LS has a 600 RPM idle rate and always has. Rock steady.

It could be some bad gasoline. Was it a name brand (top tier) station? Some of the cheap places load the fuel up on alcohol which runs terrible in cars.

so let's say you have it set on low, then it goes on high by itself? do the defrosters work? does the temperature fluctuate? To me, it almost sounds as if the control unit is experiencing issues but that is pure speculation on my part. Yeah, I agree that checking the codes is the first step.

no, never tried a new cap, I go do an OSI and see what it looks like.

I'd try removing the inline filter and see what that does. Maybe the filter is impeding the flow or something and that doesn't cost a thing to check. I was replacing the vacuum lines from my PS air control today so I had a look at my solonoid and man.... Unlike the ones shown in pictures that were well doused with oil, this was dry and just had that don't screw with me look, so I didn't. I really liked the procedure for flusing on soarer (mentioned above) as it couldn't cause and airlock .

anyone have a picture of the steering rack screen and how to clean that. I tried search by it doesn't work very well

It could be any number of things. I would suspect the torsion struts (torsion bars). Mine kind of did the same thing and when I replaced them it tracks like a NASCAR car now, maybe better. Determining what is causing it is beyond my capability so I would take it for an alignment and they will tell you what needs to be replace. Ignore the upper control arms (magnesium wishbones) as they always say they are bad.

When I need Toyota/Lexus brake pads, I order them from Irontoad.com which sells genuine T/L parts at a lot less that your local dealer. Yesterday, I replaced the pads and calipers on my neighbors 96 Avalon. The pads were very low but not inot the rotors but the calipers were in very bad condition and the boots were decompsoing. I knew that by forcing the piston back into the cylinder would cause them to bind. Since he has 270,000 miles on it, we went to the junkyard and took calipers off a 97 Camry which fit exactly. Only took less than an hour, very easy job done very cheaply. New calipers run around $115 at Bap-Geon.

There are several threads on here somewhere but I will admit not being very good at finding them. I know there are blue and green bulbs that you can buy to replace them and you don't need to solder anything. Taking the units out is easy. I would look here and maybe it will help. Several of mine are out so I also need to do this. http://www.lexls.com/

My car has always been low and often when I start the car, the low collant light is on but goes off after a minute or so. When I try to top it off, it overflows the tanks

I can't say for sure but when the same thing happened on a Chevy I had, the AC went out shortly thereafter.