VBdenny

The Nissan Sentra we bought for our daughter in 01, had that smell wicked bad. I switched brands of gasoline and it mostly was gone. I could never quite grasp the concept of why a Toyota could burn thae gas with no smell and the Nissan had it. Oh I did take it back to the dealer and they gave me the grease rack shuffle on the reason. All check out and good to go they told me with a smile. It won't hurt anything they assured me. When the car was a year old, my wife put the thing backwards into a wall on the Capital Beltway when she hit black ice. She was fine and the smell disappeared.

Hmmmm, looks like this is not a common issue. My neighbor reset it by disconnecting the battery and it has stayed off. I drove it and it seems great.

If you know how to take them out, I'd try taking them out and cleaning them up before dropping that kind of money. Those sensors get dirty like everything else. Hey, the way I figure it, they are already broken so you can't break them by trying to clean them. You have nothing to lose by trying to clean them. Who knows? blast them off with some carb cleaner and do a look-see and maybe a little brass brush action and clean up what you can. Put them back in and try it out. If it works you saved a lot of money, if it doesn't, you lost a little time and a whole lot of money. Best of luck with this. By the way, what kind of gasoline do you use? I use premium always, and major brands mostly. The only non major brand I use is Costco but I figure their stuff is always good quality so I have to trust them on gasoline. On the road I prefer Shell, Exxon or BP

yeah, I have to agree with the curious one. I'll bet they just dump some zmax or something in there. Although I have no issues with mine, I still think it probably needs a good cleaning. My car runs just great except that my A/C is out with a compressor issue. I think these are pretty easy to clean. I did it on my Chevy Caprice a long time ago. I'll have to read up on how to do this procedure.

It does make sense to change the hoses if they look in any way compromised however, my 20 year old hoses still as in excellent shape. I suppose it depends a great deal on the climate in which the car is operated

Try putting your front tires on the back and the back on the front. You'll find out pretty quickly if it is a bent rim or bad tire.

Is this type of CD player the one that fits in the glove compartment or the in dash? I had thought about putting a CD player in but actually the cassette works better for plugging in my ipod. Between the ipod and sat radio, I don't ever seem to play a CD anymore.

The Lexus calipers are really easy to work on. One you take it apart, what you need to do will be fairly obvious. In addition to the slider pin, many people also experience problems so after replacing the pads. The boot gets extended out pretty far when the pads are worn. Dirt and grime accumulates. When the boot is pushed back in when the new pads are inserted, it binds. I always wipe them off with WD40 before I compress them. A girl knowing all that is excellent in my humble opinion.

Interesting project. I took the yellow bulb covers off my 90's fog lamps. Much better without the yellow and it is a pretty easy job.

Usually the squeak is from the tensioner pulley. Try to spray some WD-40 around them. If the belt is slipping, I would just replace it. Once they slip a little and get glazed, they never work very well.

The maintainance required light means oil change needed. It is easy to shut off. As far as O2 sensors, my 1990 LS400 still has the original sensors and the car has around 175,000 miles.

Great buy on the LS. Let your friends say what they want, you get to drive it. Hey, I say wax that bad boy up and leave the rest alone.

I imagine f I had the same problem, I would first try to repair the switch. Yeah, take it apart and you may find a problem that you can correct with a little JB Weld. Depending on your time limitations, it just might be easier to buy the whole assembly. I think you'd be okay with the used parts. The switch just might be the same as a Toyota so that might be another possibility. Take pictures when you take it apart. They really help sometimes.

I would appreciate suggestions for buying Lexus parts online. Specifically, I need an A/C compressor and related parts.

The drain on the evaporator is clogged. Run a thin wire back up from inside the engine compartment. If you look on the passenger side firewall, you will see a small tube sticking out. I have had that happen before. You can even use air, but go easy. If you are not getting that sickly sweet smeel, it isn't the heater core.

my neighbor has the same problem with her RX300. I need to take the thing to AutoZOne and get the codes read. I looked and even posted on LOC, but haven't seen anything on this yet. Apparently, this is a fairly common problem on the RX's

Having owned several Escorts, including the very first one, I now have a V-1. As they say, once you drive with the arrows... I bought my wife one for her birthday.

Nobody seemd to ask if the R (reverse) light comes on when you use the brakes. If this is the case, it is a simple fix. Mine did exactly the same thing and it was caused by a broken wire in the trunk hinge. I spliced in a new section and everything was back to normal. Just a thought.

Sure sounds like a battery issue to me. Just because it is new, doesn't mean it is good. I have seen brand new batteries that are defective. I say put an Optima Red Top in there and be done with it for 10 years. Clean your connections and you should be fine. Unless the alternator is proven bad, you would be wasting your money to replace it

If you are not getting any heat, that indicates a problem. It could be that the fluid is not circulating due to a stuck thermostat, a broken impeller in the water pump, and air lock, or simply low fluid. If I wasn't getting any heat and my temperature gauge wasn't working, I would sure determine the problem before driving it much. If you have no flow, you could be overheating your engine. On a normally functioning LS400, the temperature gauge should read steadily at slightly below half.

Before you do all that, check to make sure it is not the valve cover gaskets leaking. That is much more common and certainly an easier fix. They leak and it runs down the side of the engine and eventually drips. It is not very common to have the oil pan just start leaking.

I meant OD, not OS so I can't type.

OS stands for OVERDRIVE. Overdrive means that the rear wheels turn faster than the engie RPM's. "D" (Drive) is 3rd gear in most cars (with 4 speed transmissions) which is a 1:1 drive ration. Overdrive is very useful in reducing engine RPM's and therefore, fuel economy. These cars have 4 speed sutomatic transmissions so 4th is simply the highest gear. 1st (L) 2nd (2) D (3rd) OD (4th)

engine should idle exactly at 600RPM's when engine is up temperature.

but its my understanding that the 1990-92 models dont have a "brake light/tail light" burned out warning light Yes they do. There is a light that indicates when a bulb is out. The BRAKE light indicates some type of problem in the brake pressure system, or that the parking brake is partially engaged. I would wiggle the parking brake around and see if it goes off. I had one occasion where the brake light cmae on and it was because the Ebrake pedal was just slightly engaged. Check the fluid in your master cyclinder and see if both sides are full.