RandySC400

Thanks for the wishes to get well... I am recovering quickly and can't wait to get back to 'normal' again... Or as close as possible!! My ideler pulley was to blame for my timing belt to brake. It just wore out and fell apart causing the belt to break. I have 250,000 miles on my car and have replaced all of the main parts now, that are known to wear out... So the motor is good to go for awhile longer! It runs great.I'm so happy to have my car up and going again. Next is to fix or replace my leaking power steering pump... Always a project or something to up grade!! Again Thank for all that had helped me get this back together and running... Your pacients and knowledge is greatly appreciated! :)

Well I finally got back into the garage!!! I fell on the ice a week after my last post in Janurary...and just had knee surgery! Well you were right... I stripped apart the motor to the belt... I was 180 out on the crank and aligned the cam gears... And the car started right up! I can't thank you guys enough. Your advice helped me get it back on track!! The car is running great! Time to detail the interior now! Thanks again everyone!!!

Landar, thanks for the video... Seeing that I am sure that my timing is off... Well at least I already know what's needed to strip down the motor again... It shouldn't be too bad since I'm not changing the water pump n the idler pulleys this time... Ugh... Can't beleive it... But it is reassuring to know that I found the issue... Definitely is the timing... Thank you so much for all the advice n suggestions you have been giving me to help me pin point the issue I am having with my car! Again many thanks... Can't wait to rip it apart again n line up those marks!! I will let you know how I make out with it... Thank you!

Landar, thanks for the info... So I may be my cam timing is off? I didn't know that there was engraved marks on the pulleys... I will check it... That has to be the problem... Thank you... I will report back once I find out... Thank you again.

Ok so I was able to get to the garage yesterday I found that I am getting spark at the end of the plugs... They were wet with gas... But had good spark... So I took off the caps... The rotors only go in one way.. So I lined up the timing belt marks with the marks on the block... Something that confused me was that the lines on the belt... The arrow pointed out away from the block... I will add photos beneath for you to look at. The left cam and right cam I do beleive is right...meaning that the left cam is the drivers side and the right cam is the passenger side... On the crank there were two marks to align so that is almost fool proof... So I'm stuck here... I was told that I can't use a timing gun on my car to shoot the timing?? So how do I know if it's on? Also, when I'm cranking the motor I am not getting even a bit of sputter to start... Just the motor spinning! Any advice would be appreciated... Thank you in advance...

Landar... I'm finally able to get back over to my car to see what I can do to trouble shoot it... I read above that you said that the rotor is suppose to be pointing up at clyinder #1... At TDC... Since there are two rotors where should the other one be pointing at? I may have installed them 180 degrees out... I will flip the rotors to see if that is it... Please let me know... I just put em on when I reassembled the engine... Thinking there is only 1way to install them...may 1 is 180 out or maybe both are... Please get back to me. Thank you in advance! Randy

Thanks for the advice... I will check tommorow for spark at the plugs... After 15 hours wrenching on it and it not starting... I needed to take a break! Today it snowed so couldn't make it over to the car... As for spraying starter fluid in the intake I tryed that and got absolutely nothing, not even a rubble of hope... I also double checked the timing marks, They're on... But will shoot a timing light after I check the plugs. As for reassembly I had put the distributor rotors in... They only side in one way, so they can't be in upside down...can they? Hmm, I think there is a key that makes it so it can only be put in one way... I'm really thinking that the plugs are shot... If they are fouled then there'd be no combustion... And that would be excess fuel in the cylinder... Hence the strong smell of gas... Not being burned... I will post back tommorow and let you know how I made out... Again thank you for the advice... Hopefully it won't be too much longer until it's running again!! I have some pics that I will download of the belt n idle pully #1.

Just in case anyone needed it...the timing belt kit I bought was off amazon and it was ordered through "Car Part Kings" the kit itself is "Aisin TKT- 030 Engine Timing Belt Kit w/ Water pump." It came with both Orings for the water pump and the thermostat that I keep reading about that some kits come without...Total cost was $197.25 that was S&H included... Hope this helps!

Okay guys it took longer then I thought to get into a garage. I ordered the parts from "Car Part Kings.com". It was a timing belt kit with the belt, water pump, idle pully #1 & #2 and the Tensioner. Anyway the job took me all afternoon and it the morning to get it all buttoned up... My timing marks were on the marks...and still are lined up... I tried to start the car and it wouldn't ever kick over a bit! I checked a the coil packs to see if I'm getting spark and I am... Fuel was the next thing I was going to check... I thought maybe the fuel pump? But the smell of fuel was overwhelming almost smelled like the car was flooded?? A real strong smell of gas...so idk... Do anyon e have an idea of where to go next with the trouble shooting? I'm thinking maybe fouled plugs? I'm also thinking about doing a compression test bc the motor turns over but doesn't sound like it should... I don't know... My car use to always start up with a couple of turns. Anyway my timing belt was destroyed and my idle pully #1 was also destroyed... So the job was needed ... So not a waste of time. So I need some more advice from you guys! Thank you in advance for the advice and support!!

Okay... It sounds like more work then I want and can do... I understand it'll be easier to do while it's apart... But I don't think I wanna do it... Thank you for the reply... It really helped me make the choice. Again thank you.

Okay... So I was reading some older posts before I tackle this timing belt and water pump. I'm reading that I should replace the cam seal and the crank seal...How hard is it to replace these two seals??? Everything will be apart already so I can't imagine it too difficult... Any help would be great... Thanks again guys!

It was all elbow greese... I wish I had a buffer.. It wouldn't have taken so long and I would have gotten a much deeper shine... And I don't like to plug products but this Turtle Wax: "The Black Box Collection" really did a incredible job... And for $20.00!! As for my photos being all twisted... Sorry, I don't know why they got down loaded like that...I'm not good with computers...

Alright so after some researching I found "Peridox RTU" which is a Antimicrobial cleaner.. That kills mold spores in 60 seconds! As for the stains, they suggest I try regular peroxide (@ 3 1/2%) from the store... They said if that doesn't remove the stains, then to use a "urine stain remover" for animals from a pet store because that has 7% Peroxide... If the stains still don't come out, then they sell a 20% Peroxide called "Serum"... But I shouldn't need it... So I ordered the Parodox RTU and waiting for it to come in....you simply spray it on and kills mold and mildew. They also suggested that a "Thermal Fogger", with this would work better because it could get in the vents and under the dash and under the seats... So I'm looking to see if I can rent one.... I will keep you all updated...