VBdenny

heck on irontoad.com I just replaced the rear brake pads on my 90 400. I paid $76 at a Lexus dealer in NJ for the pads because I needed them right quick. Irontoad has OEM pads for about $47 if I remember correctly. They are so easy to change. The hardest part was getting the wheel lugs loose since some idiot torqued them on big time. When changing the pads you only need to remove the top 14mm bolt on the caliper then the inner unit pivots out. Carefully remove the wishbone spring clips, then the pads. Use care to identify how the shims fit as you can reuse them. Take a small peice of metal or wood and compress the piston back into the caliper bore after cleaning them up a little. Be sure to remove and replace the tiny clip which is the wear indicators on each side on the pad. At this point I figured out that the caliper is mounted on a sliding shaft which allows you to pull the pads over the rotor. If you have anti-lock brakes you must release the pressure from the bleeder as you compress the caliper, if not just compress. Very easy job, perhaps the easiest brakes I have ever installed. Dealer wanted $700++ for the job. Denny

The compressor on my 90 400 started making a racket last winter. It was still cooling great at the time. It was winter and I was in upstate NY so I whipped it over to the Lexus dealer in Syracuse and they said the A/C compressor was locking up. I just unplugged the wire to the compressor and everything was fine until it got warm. I found a compressor at Advance Auto Parts for around $600. I'm going to change it myself. I get kinda sick of everytime you take a Lexus in to get fixed that everything is a thousand and then it needs more. The Lexus is a great car but the extremely high repair costs must surely drive people away. I think I'm going to hook that wire back up and see what happens. As for your car, I'd probably try having another shop look at it as your repair guys seems to be trying the throw money at it approach. Good luck. Denny

Hey, Sorry if this doesn't describe a problem but I just wanted to tell you how much fun I had with the 400 this week. Saturday morning a about 5 in the AM I left Caldwell, NJ and ripped the lex up through the Delaware Water Gap on I-80. Cut up I-380 to I-81 north and up to Syracuse where my mom lives. Those all are go-fast roads so I enjoyed the run. I did a quick burst up to 120 but I won't go faster on T tires. Went out this afternoon with the windows down, sunroof open, and a good CD cranked and cruise up around Chittenango Falls on a smooth, but obscure rural road. I let a Harley dude pass me as I was loafing and enjoying the ride. I did a couple of bursts on the straighaways enjoying the fine uptate afternoon. Oh what a car!

Hey everyone, Thanks, I've never had a car that idled that high beofre. Mine drops off to 600RPM's after about 3 minutes wich isn't a problem for me except that I bought the car for my wife and she is a key to shifter girl. I guess I was checking to see what everyone elses 400's did on startup. Denny

My 1990 400 starts flawlessly however the idle runs at about 1500 RPM's for about 3-4 minutes even in the summer. The dealer told me this is normal and controlled by the computer. Anyone else experience this? Just wondering if this is typical.

I had to replace the strut bushings at 120K miles. The upper control arm assembly, which is a magnesium wishbone unit, is also known to be weak in the 400's (according to the Virgina Beach Lexus dealer). That might bear checking. The cheapest way to find out what is wrong is to bring it in to Lexus and ask them to do an alignment. They will then serve you up with a "needs" list (not to mention a healthy estimate). Last, not to be overlooked is the tires. Crappy tires vibrate wicked back at times. Don't always assume Lex is ill. Good luck, put some pictures of it in the gallery.

I have used full synthetic oil in all my vehicles for many years. I have used Mobil 1 which is good. You can buy it by the case at Costco for around 35 bucks (6 qts.). I use Valoline full synthetic. The original owner of my 400 use Amsoil since it was new. I don't really think it makes much difference what brand of oil is used, rather that it is syntheic and changed freequently. I use a 3 month, or 3000 miles basis. I also use a fram XG oil filter which sell for $10. Synthetic oil is particularily useful is extreme heat and cold conditions as it stays at a consistant viscosity at all times. As mentioned previously I would not use 10-40W as is not recommended by Lexus. You will also lose what little gas milage you get. Enjoy the 92 it sounds like a sweet unit.

I'll have to wait until I get back to VB as my pictures are on my home computer. How complicated can replacing an a/c compressor be? I think I'll figure it out. I do know one think, the Lexus was not designed to provide a refreshing airflow even with the sunroom open. Without a/c this is one hot car! Thanks for the help. Denny

I looked at the picture. Jeezeee... Looks like the picture was a little shakey which I certainly understand. I think I'll just send the picture to my brother without any caption, maybe he will think I did it! Great shot. Denny

I must agree that the timing belt was not set properly which will cause overheating. I really doubt it is your radiator unless you see something or previously had problems with it. A couple of things I would check. Sometimes it is possible to get a air-lock especially if you haven't run the heater on high for awhile after the change. Another possibility is a defective waterpump. To check this, take off the radiator cap (not the overflow cap) DO THIS ONLY WHEN THE CAR IS COLD. Start the engine and put the heater on the highest setting. Watch to see when the thermostat opens and the flow begins. If you never see any flow this means one of two things has occured, the waterpump impeller is not turning (rather unlikely for a new pump) or more likely the thermostat is stuck closed. If the thermostat was not replaced during this work this is a good possibility. I guess this is why us DIY'ers are in existance. Good luck. Denny

I understand. They certainly made something simple into something quite complicated. The only other suggestion is to make sure the nuts are on the back of the mounting screws for the headlight unit because mine have come loose which causes the base of the headlight to tilt inward. Since the nut on mine was missing I didn't notice it at first. I just sat there rocking the thing and looking at it and suddenly I saw what the problem was. I looked in my misc. hardware box and found a nut, put it on and I am good to go. Tell you what, I am heading up to New Jersey later today, then to Syracuse on Friday. When I get to the 'cuse, I'll look at it and see if I can come up with anything better. Since the Lexus is up in New Jersey right now I can't go out and look at it right now. Maybe a couple of things you can help me out with, like how do you put a picture of your car below your name on this website? I saw you had it. I did put a few pictures of my rig in the gallery. And also, does your book give info on switching out the A/C compressor? Thanks, Denny

It might not be a bad idea to go ahead and change out the power steering pump and the hose. If you take it to the dealer, they will probably also tell you you need a new steering rack. They quoted me about $1700 to replace all that stuff and they generally estimate low. I was really busy at the time making money so I had a Japanese auto repair place do the pump and hose to the tune of about $1000. The reason is was so much was because they told me they had to go to Lexus and buy the parts from the dealer. The dealer is expensive (I paid $75 for rear brake pads two days ago) which I probably the only reason people don't buy a Lexus. If your pump is leaking enough to require topping off, you are already leaking oil into your alternator because it is right underneath. You can do the job yourself, ask people on here to tell you how. I wish I had done mine as it would have saved me three or four hundred bucks. After the fact I found on on car-parts.com a lot cheaper. Final thought, Call your dealer and get the price on a new alternator. Whew! Good luck, Denny

How difficult was it to replace? I have done compressors on Chevy's and Cadillacs but never on a Lexus. I have all the tools and 30lbs. of R-12 on hand. I guess specifically what I need to know is how much oil and R-12 to add and technical stuff like that. I'd like to do this next week as it is getting hot.

I would also be interested in one of these. In the event you go ahead with the purchase please let me know. dwmahony@cox.net

You really want to have this shield on. The alternator sits very low and if you even drive in the rain all the water is going to get into it. The last time I had work done at the dealer they forgot to reinstall it and I had to go back. The reason they wear out is that when you change the oil, the shield must be removed. Sometimes people get careless and don't put all 13 10mm screws back in, and sometimes the holes get bigger than the screw heads. What I did was to install large washers through the screws which helps keep everything tight.

Since I bought a 90 LS400 one year ago I might be able to give you a few things to be on the lookout for. Mine had 120,OOO miles on it when I got it from the original owner. I'll list some of the weaknesses I have seen. 1. Clock and A/C LED displays go out all the time. Dealer cost is around 600 installed. My clock part doesn't light up but it is not dark as I've seen sevral other people mention. 2. The power steering pump and hose go bad about this milage. Normally you can just let them leak a little and add fluid BUT with this model when the pump or hose goes, all the fluid pours through the $750 alternator. Dealers charge about $1500, I got a Japanese Auto place to do it for around a grand. 3. Strut arm bushings go bad about each 100K, they're about $500+ 4. My A/C compressor started locking up at 127,000 so I pulled the wire and now it just freewheels. I'm looking on car-parts.com for a replacement. Luckily, I have a 30lb. jug of R-12 around here. Don't get me wrong, the Lexus is one sweet vehicle. One I started driving it I was sold. You just have to realize that EVERYTHING with an "L" on it is really expensive. For DIYers, even the parts are extremely expensive. My advise is to spend the $75 and take the car to the Lexus dealer before you buy it. They are great people (which they better be for what they charge), they all smile (wouldn't you?) and they will give an excellent analysis of the cars needs and condition.

I did not have to remove the battery or air thing. I did take out more screws than I had to on the first side. Look at it and go slow and you will figure it out. There is the possibility that they changed it for 91, as mine is a 90. Most Lexus stuff is over-engineered to the hilt so it does take awhile to figure it out. Good luck. Denny

I gotta agree with LS Todd. I would add a can of either Slick 50 Fuel System Treatment, or Valvoline Fuel System treatment. If you don't pay $10, you have the wrong stuff and nothing else works as well. My friend had the same probem with his Cadillac and have a tune-up, and the computer replaced and it still did the same thing. He said go drive it. I did, right to the auto parts store where I dumped in 2 containers. The next few days his problem was gone. He couldn't believe it.

d to see I am not alone. I fixed the problem by cutting a piece of wood the proper length and keeping it in the trunk. Since my hood will stay up for about 4-5 minutes I also posted a WATCH OUT warning under the hood since I don't want someone hurt. They ought to give us all new struts at a reasonable price or even free. There is obviously a design defect in these struts which SHOULD have resulted in a recall. Very dangerous condition for some unsuspecting person looking under the hood. I'm sure the MB and BMW people laugh seeing most Lexus owners using a stick to hold the hood up.

Thanks for the info. I removed the RR tire and found out indeed the caliper was sticking. Since the pads were way worn from the caliper sticking I whipped over to a local Lexus dealer (with my wallet). No I didn't pay them the $700 bucks they quoted to do the brakes, I just bought a set a brake pads for $75 bucks (my Chevy's cost $18). I cleaned up the boot (which wasn't torn) then using a C-clamp and a small piece of flat metal I compressed the piston back into the caliper (NOTE: if you have anti-lock ABS brakes you must open the bleeder valve as you do this or you will damage the ABS) and installed the new pads. I must say having done many brake jobs over the years that Lexus has a most excellent design on brakes. I did both sides in less than 30 minutes using the one both out, hinged calipers. I found out that only the top bolt must be removed. Tools needed for job, 14mm wrench (included in Lexus tool kit) and a C-clamp which I bought at Home Depot for $8 (since I am away from home at the moment). Anyone can do brakes on a Lexus and save close to $1000. My experience with the dealers is that they always get big money for you for everything. Luckily, Lexus engineering makes working on these cars easier than most. They key is to carefully study the parts before and during disassembly. I probably would have installed a new caliper but since the dealer didn't have one in stock? and I was afraid to ask the cost, I used the same one. Seems to be working fine. By the way, I LOVE driving this car. I can easily run at 100mph on the Jersey Turnpike and still be loafing.

Although I'm not sure if there is much differnce between 90 and 91, the adjustment procedure is probably about the same. By the way, I found all this out when one of my bulbs burned out. At that time I noticed that one of the lens covers could be moved. After studying the complicated, but well engineered system, I determined that there are several sets of screws, two of which are for headlight adjustment. What happenes is that the nut that the screws, screw into come loose so that the screw just turns. If you study the setup and disassemble the headlight system, you will see what I mean. I'm pretty good with car stuff but I will say it took me 30 minutes to understand it. Rest assured that I changed both bulbs since I already knew how to do it.

I have a 1990 LS400 and I noticed a brake noise which sounded like it was dragging. I felt the rims after driving less than 5 miles and the right rear was very hot. Are sticking calipers a typical Problem on a Lexus? I didn't see any other posts regarding brakes.