VBdenny

I replace the pads when they get about 1/2 worn out. When the pads get old they also become glazed and don't work as well. The dealership prices for OEM pads is just ridiculous. I ordered have ordered all my brake pads through irontoad.com where they are around $60 a set. Irontoad is great and my pads were delivered in a factory box from a Lexus dealership in Penna. I won't use aftermarkets since they always seem to dust badly. To change them, just loosen the lower caliper bolts and rotate the inner portion up. Then remove the wishbone springs and pads being careful to keep the 2 inner plates in the correct order. I didn't use any anti-sieze, just cleaned everything up. I clean up the rubber piston boot then use one of the old pads and a c-clamp to push the piston back into the cylinder. It has to go all the way in or the new pads will not fit over the disc. Install the new pads with the plates, reinsert the wishbones and rotate the caliper down into it's seat. The inner caliper is spring loaded so you will have to pull the caliper toward you to position the new pads over the disc. This is a very easy job and I have actually done the entire process with the Lexus onboard tool kit and a c0clamp. Remember to check your fluid level when completed.

My car started smoking bad at startup so with the help of a couple golf tees and a small hose clamp I just blocked it off and no problem. I do like the idea of just plugging the outlet at the pump as ps fluid always seeps from that area. I'm sure Toyota had a reason for adding this feature but it is really insignificant.

You can buy one of the stethescopes from Sear for around $20. I have one and use it frequently to check noises people have in the engines. They are very sensitive and you will find it interesting to hear the sounds of the different parts. And yeah, you really have to pay attention when the engine is running. Before you go poking the probe in there I would carefully look over the engine compartment while it is off just to be sure you know where not to poke.

I got the valve off a Totota at the junkyard. Haven't put it on yet but it looks identical

oops, wrong fix. I have one on fixing the auto steering wheel raise unit.

I have a complete tutorial on how to fix this. I didn't make it, I just saved it from another LOC member. Send me an email and I will send you the PDF file. It is probably also saved on here if you do a search in the tutorial section.

Having grown up In Syracuse, NY, the reason for storing a vehicle in the winter is not usually because one is concerned with the handling in snow but rather not salting the unit up. Salt destroys cars so we would always purchase a "winter rat" to drive through the winter. We bought cheap cars, snow tired them up and beat the crap out of them all winter. In the spring, the final torture would finish them off. Then we hauled them to the boneyard. I would not want my cars salted again having lost many a car to that stuff.

You can always push the manual override button to release the shift mechanism. It bypasses the electronic lock mentioned above.

How old is the battery? first thing I would suspect since they give many of the things you described. The wires in the trunk break often but are easy to access and identify for repair. The usual result is the "R" (Reverse) light coming on when you apply the brakes.

Oh yeah, when you rotate the caliper back in, push back on it as it is spring loaded.

Very easy. Remove wheel. Loosen the top bolt (not the 17mm) and rotate the inner caliper up. Spend a minute to understand exactly how the shims and wishbone spring are attached. Clean the boot and compress piston back into the cylinder using a c-clamp and one of the old pads. Install the new pads and rotate the caliper back into the seat and you are good to go. Very easy job.

I hardwired my V-1. I used the remote display and volume control and have the actually unit concealed since I live in VA and didn't wish to draw attention. I connected it to the lighter circuit which works with the key.

These LS400's have positraction which means both rear wheels spin equally. This is a big benefit on dry roads but on wet roads it can cause the car to get loose upon acceleration. Positraction requires special driving techniques so if you live in a snow climate, use snow tires.

Exactly like my car except without the tape of the lights. Welcome to LOC.

I think the mechanic is shade tree. On this very board is a detailed (pinned) thread describing your dash light problem. As far as the A/C goes, I think the mechanic is guessing. You can't just replace the compressor without doing the entire system including the evaporator which requires the dashboard to be removed. If you really want the true diagnostic, take it to a Toyota dealer, one that doesn't also have a Lexus dealership.

Mine has a button you can depress to allow you to shift the car while the ignition is off. Exact spot.

The override button allows you shift out of gear while parked. As to your primary problem, sounds like new battery time for you. These cars use a lot of juice and even marginal batteries can cause problems. Yeah, I know it was tested but it is just a test. Mine acts funny and the battery is over 3 or 4, it's gone.

Worm strut rod bushing will cause steering and tire wear issues but probably not humming. Almost every time I hear about it, it turns out to be the tires.

My 1990 LS 400 does not have traction control and it does have fair amount of power and positraction (or whatever Toyota calls it). It is so easy to break the back tires loose in any type of inclimate weather that you do have to be aware. Worn tires will really make this more likely.

The car has positraction. When you get on it a little taking off the back tires break loose. Happens all the time and occurs more frequently when tires are worn and especially in rain when traction is decreased. Not a problem at all, just square it back up and you are good to go.

After reading that I described changing the door handle. You do not need to take the 3 Philips screws out to remove the door panel.

Although I have never taken the door panel off an ES300, I have taken them off a number of Camrys and this might help. Around the perimeter of the door trim and small plastic clips that have to be removed. If yours are like the Camry, they a push-pin locking and kind of easy to break if you are not careful. I have a couple extra around that I pilfer at junkyards. There should be four of them. I use a small flat screwdriver to push the lip up then extract them with my L shaped needle nose pliers. You can use sidecutters IF you are careful not to squeeze too tight. There is a screw somewhere in the doorhandle probably covered by a color matched cap. You also need to take out the three large Philips screws on the edge of the door. The hardest part is getting the door opening handle cover off. Once you get everything loose, push upward on the panel and it will slide up. Just to give you an indea of the time, the first time it took me about 40 minutes, now I could do it in 15. I looked at my LS and it seems close.

my 04 ES330 has it. I wondered about it but it really looked factory.

I had one of my tailights that the contacts inside the socket were not set correctly so I cleaned it all up and the light (indicator) went out.

I have to agree. I just can see people buying this car with 8 speed paddle shifters but you never know. Some people just like every available gadget especially in this price range so it's a tough call. Probably depends a lot on what dealers have in stock.