914lps

How many miles from the last tune up, and what type of plugs were used?.... But I would agree with the tire thing, and the air cleaner.

The air freshener "Frabreze" works real good at killing that gas smell. Spray it in the car with the windows up over night. Also just before hitting the road spray lots into your air vents on the outside of the car, then drive with your outside vents open. The smell of the air freshener sucks but after two days no odors at all.

Universal Key = Tow Truck. I used to work for a repo company long time ago. Takes less time to hook up and tow then to brake in etc. And you can hook to the front and just drag it, or throw it on a dolly. In fact from pulling up to pulling away I knew guys who could do it in lss then 3 min. And late at night even if the alarm goes off, the car and truck are gone before most folks wake up enough to look out a window. Now adays they even have hide away tow trucks. Looks just like a plain old pick up till they drop the tail get and hit the switch to have the tow stuff pop up. Much easer to get then a key that will defeat the alarm. As for opening the door without a key not hard to do. And from vin # you can cut a key that will work the doors and ignition lock, but it will not beat the alarm. All that siad I have had a car riped off before. I think it should be handled as if it was the wild west... String-Em-Up!

The estimate I got in L.A. was definitely a low ball. The L.A. job was based on self pay (usually more then what they charge for an insurance pay). I went to my insurance companies body shop here in Bullhead. It came out at just under $2,500.00 and the body shops out here are a lot less then what L.A. rates are. They stated that they can’t state if the front is tweaked or not, as that would take more inspection and the insurance company only lets them write up damages that are clearly visible. If the front is tweaked they stated the most it could run to fix it would be about $600.00 to$800.00 more. The car had a good alignment on it before the hit (new P6 tires two months ago). In the highway at speed with hands off wheel car would go a very good distance with no drift. Now you let go of the wheel and car goes to the right (opposite direction from the side that got hit, and the direction the car was pushed in). Also I do not think the suspension is damages other then needing a good old alignment after the car is straitened. I’m sure that the tire took some of the force. I don't see how it could be "frame damadge" as I belive the car is a uni-body. No frame rails.

The car took the hit (more of a push then a hit) manly on the upper panel and the side of the bumper. All doors (front and rear, back panels etc, , are fine. The hood seems to have the same spacing all the way around, but it is not shutting completely right. Instead of being tight. It lifts up about 1/4" when you lift on it, or when driving you can see the hood come up just that small amount and again, the front lower quarter panel on the passenger side (the side that did not get hit, is no longer flush with the top panel. The top panel sticks out past it by 1/4 to 1/2". I tried to look at some other LS 400 before driving back home, but as luck would have it as I needed to see one, I found none. I did notice that the lower quarter panel on the drivers side got pushed back a small amount also. The big dent was made by were the "receiver" for the trailer hitch hit over the center of the fender. It pushed it in so bad the metal was hitting almost the center of the tire. I had to pull it out using a metal pole, to make the car drivable. It just seems to me that that much force pushing on the car is more likely then not to push the whole front end over. Also my alignment is no off. Car is pulling to the passenger side (right).

I have a 91 LS 400. For a navagation unit I use a Garmin Ique. It is a complet palm based PDA and full GPS unit. Touch screen , color, finds address gives directions, street and high maps, an MP3 player and more, and street price is just under $500.00. And I can take it almost anyplace.

Ebay, Ebay, Ebay... Just did a fast search and got this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...7958402601&rd=1

I would go with checking your level first, but my brake light does a strange thing. I put the parking brake on. Turn the car on. Get the light. Pull the release and even hold it out. Parking brake comes off. Light stays on, but if I pull the release one more time it goes off. On mine I'm thinking the light switch needs to be ajusted. But I do not have a clue on how to do it.

I have an LS 400. The engine was cleaned off with very little water. Low pressure. And I only did about $1,000.00 harm to stuff. Now I treat my Lexus like my cat. I do not get either wet. They don't like it.

Oh, it gets better. On Wednesday I spent 3 hours washing waxing etc.... The dent was bad enough that I had to pry the fender out to save the tire from getting eaten. It really is just life’s old fashioned BS... It could be so much worse. No one hurt and car is fixable. Other guy admitted fault ( I recorded him admitting it) and he has insurance. I had been thinking about taking all the dings and dents from parking lots (you know shopping carts and car doors) out of the car and doing a complete repaint. Think I'll do it now. I did get a fast estimate at about 2,200.00 but it may be low. I think the front my be pushed over. I was in a parking lot and a guy in a full size Chevy Tahoe ( 2004 from Avis rent a car. Guy bought full coverage insurance on the rental. He lives in Mexico ) backed into me. I was stopped. His rear hit the driver side quarter panel. The wheel well was abut the center of the hit. His bumper hit the car high. Putting the biggest dent right over the center of the area over the tire. When he made contact with my car it stopped him. He then gave it gas.. And pushed me sideways about a foot. As such I will expect it tweaked the front top of the car. The Lexus is the silver two tone with gray on the lower panel. On the side that was hit the panel now sticks out about ½” in front of the top sheet metal. On the passenger side, the top sheet metal now sticks out past the lower panel. The hood seems to have the same spacing on all sides. Me thinks my car got pushed over…… Your thoughts???

Here is what I did on water injection: http://www.biznetonline.com/02-02/water2.htm Here is the some of the stuff on Octane Boosters and the fact that they are a wast of $$: http://www.biznetonline.com/02-02/water.htm http://www.biznetonline.com/12-01/car.htm On Octane: http://www.biznetonline.com/12-01/octane.htm http://www.biznetonline.com/12-01/api.htm http://www.biznetonline.com/12-01/fuel.htm

Did you know when you are stopped in a parking lot, and can't move forward or back up because of traffic, and a big SUV backs right into your divers side front quarter panel you can hear it go crunnnch! (my window was down and the radio was off). Gee, I'm so happy right now, once again in Los Angeles 500 miles from home and the car is messed up. Please no great suggestions like telling me I should stay at home more. :chairshot:

Is the fan speeding up as in you can hear it changing speed or are you feeling more air when you speed up. If you are only feeling more air, and the vent is set for outside air, you get more air becouse the cars speed is pushing air into the car. Is there any diferance in air flow fan speed when in park and you rev the engine or just incress the rpm and hold it at say 2,5 rpm for a few????

I know this is not the responce you are looking for but as all kinds of folks are reading this here goes: How many folks have had Lexus turn you down on warenty work becouse you ran less them 91 and they found out! Yes, it is a violation! You are going against the instructions. I have writen articles on octain etc... Don't judge my writing from my spellng... :D Modern cars will ajust the time so you will never here the pinging. But you are making things harder on your car, and it will cost you in the long run. If your most important thing is having a car that runs on 87, sell the Lexas and get a car made to run on 87! In short if you plan on keeping your car a long time, don't run 87. If you do not care about the car, run 87 in it, don't change the oil or check anything on the car, or fix stuff when it brakes, and just keep going till it's dead.

I learned the hard way. My LS400 is like a cat. It really does not like water. On cleaning off my engine I took out the plugs and wires (O.K. only 3 of them) and the idle controle valve ( a $700.00 + list part). I hope you did nothing more then mess up your plugs and wires. My car was only 5,000 miles from a tune up, so that was no big deal... But the Idle control valve!!!! The plugs and wirers go into a "hole or well on the engine. If water gets in there, it takes out the plug and it's wire. See the tune up guide at lexls.com for more info on the tune up.

I find myself thinking a lot about doing the skins. It is a lot cheeper to have a guy put skins on, then having him make the skins. Like the complet job with the skins for around $1,000.00... But in the springy seat.. Not sure what you mean. Most folks complane the seats are hard hard as a rock. But if you reskin, not that much more to put new or deferant foam on the seats.

Were are you getting your new skins from?

Yes, you can go though the pain of chaging the color, but your going to spend big bucks. At least $2,000.00 to do it right. You are better off putting that money into the car you want to start with. Try not only Ebay, but the Recycler.com and the Autotrader.com. Just did a fast search on the auto trader for LS400 Black color in Southern California (did not know any Northern Ca. zip codes). Over 12 cars came up all under $10,000.00 So the cars are out there and for sale. Good luck, and remember the way to end up with a good car at a good pirce is to be willing to walk away from any car and keep looking.

Just spent 3 hours with tech suport to get my E-Mail working and they can't get it to work!!! so here is the text of the E-Mail I was going to send to you on the Idle Control Valve. I'm glade this day is ending :chairshot: It's been a long day, but I just saw you post and your request for info so here goes. Hopefully you know were the idle control is, if not I hope this is enough for you to find it. This goes for a 91 LS400 I think other years are the same but I do not know. Look at the engine, looking at the top of the Manifold. You will see that in the front in the center just under were the metal vacuum lines are is a large line going from a fitting on the manifold to the air intake, behind the mass air flow sensor. It has a small vacuum line (going to the PS pump) connected right by it on the air intake housing. This is the air line the Idle Control Valve sucks in air from. The round silver and black thing with the plug on it in the center of the engine is the idle control valve. With the car running at idle, pull the air line off the air intake at the side that connects to the air intake. Try not to brake the fitting for the small vacuum line (Like I did). You should feel and hear air sucking down the line. If there is no suction the idle control valve is stuck closed. As I have only done this with a bad valve I can not say what you will get if the valve is O.K., but I'm sure that if the valve is O.K., that what will happen is as you start to cover the hole, and decrees the air coming in, the valve should open up more to get more air in, as such, you should feel an increase in the suction. If you are getting an increase then the valve is in fact opening and closing. If you have suction try moving you finger over the opening on the hose to decrees or stop the air flow. If the valve is stuck in the full open position (Mine was), you can get the car running fine at idle by getting your finger over the hose just right for the air flow the engine needs. I have been told you can clean the valve. You can't. I have completely taken mine apart. But you can clean the opening the valve plunger goes into. To clean it, with the car running, just spray some throttle body cleaner into the end of the hose and it will suck it in. This will clean out any carbon build up on the plunger and it's seat. If you need more info let me know. I can get into telling you how to remove the valve. How to open it, and what is inside etc.

Sounds a lot like the 91 I got from my dad when he stopped driving. I paid him $6,000.00 about 18 months ago (about full value). I was just checking the price on mine yesterday by checking prices on E-Bay and the rcycler and auto buys. A 91 with about 120, miles is o.k. condition is still worth $6,000.00 or more. On the seats. There is a guy that posted a week or so ago on a company selling new leather skins on Ebay. Something like $600.00 for both front seats. Look for his posting. I asked him to post if he gets them.

I was just reading about the guy who got that engine replased and thought about you. I may be eating my words. And I will be happy to do so. Here is his post: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=15714&hl= As for service records. I was once a P.I. and I know a few things about hunting down records. I'll be happy to share the how twos. Contact a freindly dealer and have them run the vin#. The service history will come up (for services done at the dealership). Contact DMV to find the old owner(s). Law is deferant from state to state on what they will give you and why. But if you show you own car now and need to hunt down service records, more likly then not they will give you a ownership history on the car. Look in the door jam. Some service stations put there stickers there. Pull a car fax report to see how many owners etc., they show. If you get names of owners I can give you info on how to locate, Just PM me if you need more help. Lets hope my other coment turns out to be totally wrong!

See this: http://www.lexls.com/climatebacklighting.html

I know on the 91 it is OBD1 If you get this thing done let me know. I habve a lap top and a 91 LS400. I would love to be able to read the computer (The one in the car not the lap top). And with it costing at least $50.00 to have it read, I would even pay out some bucks to be able to read the codes myself.

Don't take this wrong, but I'm willing to bet the dealer is going to laugh at you. I just hope not to your face. If you know and trust a good shop take it to them and have them inspect the car. Most of all, the compreshion on the engine. If its good. No big deal. If it is bad, you have learned that on getting a used car, always have it checked out first. If it is bad, why would Lexus do anything when you are not the one that bought it from them, and you have no mantanance records? When you pull the dipstick, smell it. If it smells burned at one piont this car got way to hot. Again I do not want you to take this wrong, but the time to check out this car was before you bought it. What ever this ccar does or does not need, it is now on you. I learned the hard way on the first cars I bought. Man was I ripped, but I "should" have known better. Now I do not buy any car without a inspection report from a shop I know and trust. Yes it my cost me 2 to 3 hours of shop time, but it is cheep in the long run. I hope you car is fine. I would recomend finding a good independant shop, unless money is no big deal, becouse dealers are going to make you pay and pay. I would have all fluids in this car changed out. Why? Bexcouse you have no idea when it was last done. This way you will know how old the iol is. How old the coolant is, and so on...

It could be this or that. but before we get into all the things it could be, I would double check that all plugs are good. That all wires are good (even out of the box they can be bad), and the caps and rotors are good. Also the timeing. If after that and every thing is O.K. but you get the up and down idle I would look at the idle control valve. I just went though it with mine. A very costly part. PM me if you want info on checking if it is you idle valve. For a how to on tune up see: http://www.lexls.com/pfpages/tuneup.html By the way the idle control valve can be seen in the pic for step 4 at the uper right hand coner. It is dead center on the front of the top manafold.