914lps

I'm in L.A. now, driving the Saab around, but I will call this guy in the morning and talk with him. THANK YOU! (yes it's a big loud thank you!). I must be totally nuts. I drive an 84 Saab and a 91 Lexus in a town of 40,000 folks, and I'm not a do it yourselfer. But at least I have the 4x4 ford truck as a back up. I love both the Saab and the Lexus, but I can't pull a boat worth a sh$# with either one :D But the truck tops out at 90.... The Lexus????? Had it up to 145... And the Saab tops out at 140...and both cars just love the road. There is one advantadge of living in the flat open desert and knowing the cops..... :P

WhenI put it in gear and foot on the brake the egine is at abot 1,000 rpm. If I take my foot off and let the car go, it will go up to 1,500 rpm and stay there. Is this valve known to just go out of wack like this????

I live in Bullhead City Az., right along the river. Across from Laughlin Nv. I'm about 100 miles from Henderson or Las Vegas and about 50 miles from Lake Havasu. I need a good Lexus Mechanic. I think I'm the only guy in this town with a Lexus, an't no lexus guys here to work on the car, and I'm not that great of a do it yourselfer. Thanks.

Glad to hear you got it fixed. By the way, the standard practice for wealding a gas tank is to fill it with water, and weld it with the water in it. That way there can be no gas or fumes. And yes, it can be wealded that way, but you need to be a good wealder. It may be easer for most folks to use a fiberglass patch, or on of those store bought patches. On the gas cap. When my tank is down to about 4 gal., and I take the cap of, after a long 300 mile drive, I get a big rush of air out of the tank... Has me thinking about a new gas cap.

Still No Go! I took the + terminal off the battery for well over 10 minutes. In that time I again looked for vacuum leaks etc. I found the hose clamps by the Air sensor slightly loose. I tightened them up. I found no other air or vacuum leaks, lose wires connectors etc. I hooked the battery back up, and started the car. For about 40 seconds it idled steady at about 1,100 rpm (outside temp about 70 degrees) Then it started surging again. Up to 1,800 rpm, then down to 1,100 rpm, and so on. I turned it off. Restarted and the surging was immediate. Hitting the throttle was of no help!!! Any other ideas???? I was going to drive the car into Los Ageless today but have doubts about taking a 400 mile drive in it. Any thoughts on driving it a long distance like this? Anyway, I'm taking my 84 Saab to L.A. instead. I just hate taking it to L.A., it is in amost showroom condition, and I hate what L.A. folks do to other cars. When I get back in a few days I'll deal with this. I'm about 100 miles from Las Vegas and about 50 miles from Lake Havasu if anyone knows a good independent mechanic in either of those two cites please let me know. The car has just over 100,000 miles on it. Had last major service by a dealer in L.A. at 60,000 miles. I'll check back in on any new info. Thanks.

How much to put the engine in??? I priced your car on Edmonds (better then kelly, more of a true price). In ruff condition with 350,000 miles and no options it is worth at least $5,000.00 In totally damadged condition it is at lest $4,000.00, so onless it is realy bent up. dented and trashed... I would say that if you can get it up and going for $1,000 to $1,500.00 why not. What kind of shape is it in... inside and out??????

I just put an Inline filter into the return line on my 91 LS 400. I had to use about a foot and a half of line to get a straight area of about 4 inches for the filter. I ran the line from the pump down under the brack lines, then up though them again to get a straight run to the return hose. I got the filter at Auto Zone. Cost $13.00! made of plastic??? Made by a company called Cardone has part number 20FTL1 on it. Filters down to 200 microns. they have a web site at: http://www.cardone.com but they do not show the part.

:cries: Idle Speed surging up and down HELP I had my car serviced at a car wash. Lube, Oil, and Filter. They told me the Air cleaner was dirty so I had them put a new one in. When I got the car back, the idle was going nuts. Car starts fine, but idle never goes below 1,100 rpm, and goes straight up to 2,100, then right back to 1,100, and back to 2,100…. And it keeps doing it. Wither the car is hot or cold. Car runs fine on the road, but will not go below the 1,100 rpm. I have researched the posts but found no help. I did check vacuum lines. Can’t find any loose ones. Can’t find any vacuum leaks. I tried “taping” on the Mass Airflow Sensor, the throttle body and so on. All to no help. I did find out that before they gave the car back to me they forgot to plug the connector back into the Mass Airflow Sensor before starting the car, but then plugged it in. I also found out they “Spilled” oil on the engine so the washed it of with engine cleaner and low pressure water. Help… I do not have a clue as to what to do. Car wash guys say nothing they did caused this. But car was fine when I drove in. Help. Thank You.

At most wholesal car sales. No driving is done. At best the car is started, but that is it. That is why most cars go for the low end at a wholesale action. Most wholesale buyers are very willing to pass on any car. The dealer would be lucky to get 3,000.00 nat auction. On the vib. My bet is the rotors. Tell the dealer you will buy the car if your machanic tells you the car is O.K. If the dealer will not go for this, he knows the car is bad. After all if the car passes your going to buy it

Thank you kind Sir!

:( I completely flushed the system today with Dextron III the one Valvalin makes for "high mileage" cars. If someone did put "power steering fluid" in the system. What is the fix? Would I just have to flush the system and clean the screens? If this was done, the car would have been driven about 800 miles maximum with a mix of Dextron III and power steering fluid in it. Also I heard there are 3 screens? Is this true? I know of the one in the reservoir, and the one on the solenoid. But the third one????? Would "Power steering" fluid mess up anything else? Do other damage???? I was thinking about an external filter. I'll hit the auto parts in a.m.. I'm sure AutoZone, or Kragen has a part. I hope the return hose comes of easer then it did today, when I flushed the system. Hay, stupid question??? I know I'll need a small piece of hose (and two hose clamps) for "splicing" the filter into the line. What size to I get. Would "Fuel" line work or???? Hay Monarch... If you read this. I have a question for you but the system would not let me PM you.... If I take the car to a locale mechanic to pull the reservoir and give him the print out from this forum. How long should it take the guy to do. Also what "parts" would he need to replace??? Like O rings or??? The guy here is a good mechanic, but I have the only Lexus in this town, so he really does not know the car. But If I bring him the "how to" info, it seems to go O.K. That is how I keep my 84 Saab running in this small town. Also I want to say thank you again to you and the others. I have learned a lot. Your time, and sharing of information is appreciated.

I had the same ordeal. It took 3 of us to work it off. Two pushing with screwdrivers and one twisting the hose left to right. I though we were going to pull the fitting off the reservoir! It was also hard to get back on

O.K. I made it back to Arizona. I pulled the Solenoid and cleaned it. I then flushed the system, and re-cleaned the Solenoid. The Solenoid seems to be working electrically. So does the EC in the steering column. But My power steering still sucks at idle speed. 99% of the time but every now and then it seems to pop back for a moment then go away again. I drained the Power Steering reservoir and looked in it . The screen and walls look like a mud hole. Nasty stuff. I do not have the time to try to pull the reservoir as suggested. I did hook up my shop vac to a thin hose and sucked a small amount off the screen but still real dirty. I’m wondering the likelihood that it is the screen or????? I will be in L.A. in a few weeks. I called some Lexus mechanics. They told me to pull the reservoir, it is about $200.00 for labor, and gaskets will need to be replaced???? I think I was getting a hose job. I’m thinking about printing out the info on this link and have my local auto guy pull the reservoir and clean it for my. Out hear the shop time rate is only $35.00 an hour and I’m not real good at doing my own stuff. Any thoughts???

Thanks to everyone that has been helping me. On Monday I tried calling the mechanic recommended to me. But Walt was out sick and I talked to a Brian. He did not sound like he knew about the Solenoid. As such I really did not want to make the drive out to him. I then called a friend I used to know in the valley. He builds race cars and does some work on American cars. He told me the lift was free and to come over with the info on how to do the work on the Solenoid. It took more time to get the car on the lift then to remove the solenoid. Now that I have seen it done I would say that if you can change your own oil. You can do this. Strange. On looking at the solenoid, we could see that it had been removed before (chisel mark on it). At any rate he removed it and cleaned it. On cleaning it we could see that on the last cleaning someone pushed two if the screens in. We called around but it is almost imposable to get just the Solenoid. It only comes two ways. As part of the valve at around $500.00 to $600.00 or in a complete rack with the valve and Solenoid for about $400.00 though Lexus dealers. I was not going to deal with a fast decision to spend $400.00 on a rack, and $300.00 to install. So we just put the cleaned solenoid back into the car. It helped a small mount more. So now I even had some power even at a stand still, but it was not what it should be. I then drove home. I took this car over from my dad after his stroke. Going over the paperwork I found that at 60,000 miles Vista Lexus rebuilt the power steering pump. The car now has just over 106,000 miles on it. I called Vista this morning, and asked about the job. I was told that they always remove and clean the Solenoid whenever they replace or rebuild a pump. But they felt no responsibility about the screens. They told me that the screen deteriorate and get holes in them naturally over time. So now we know that the dealers know about cleaning the Solenoid and it’s apparent relationship to pump failure. I would love to hear all your thoughts on this and the comment the dealer made about the screen on the solenoid. My plan: Jack the car up on stands. Pull and re-clean the Solenoid. Check it electronically. In cleaning the Solenoid this time I will apply low current to it to open it when I clean it. I may even soak the top part in cleaner. As the screens are partly gone, it could have gunk in it. Then reinstall. Flush the system, and re-clean. If this does not do it, and the unit checks O.K. electronically, then I’m stuck with a bad valve, and It’s time to do the full rack (they can be found rebuilt with warranty for $200.00 to $300.00). So, worst case I’m looking at a $600.00 bill, still better then $2,000.00 at a dealer. If the Solenoid cleans O.K. and the system works I will still try to find a replacement one with good screens. I’ll let everyone know the outcome. I have spent a lot of time finding out everything I could on this, and visiting at least 15 user groups around the world. I found the following information. As I never found it all in one post or on one site I thought it would be good to post it. Please understand this is from mutable sources and more then one contributor. I believe it is very accurate. But check for yourselves. How to service Solenoid: Disconnect the wires Take a sharpie and mark a registration line across the nut & on the steering rack for positioning. The Solenoid is connected by a thin nut, use either very thin channel lock pliers or just take a flat screwdriver or small chisel and "tap" the nut to loosen - then remove by hand. Behind the solenoid or attached to it, will be the screen and a gasket, just be careful with it and remove. You'll loose 1/4 quart+ of PS fluid....a little messy, so be ready! Clean the screen, replace, and tighten solenoid back to registration mark. Tap it back tight with the screwdriver or chisel you used. Good cleaner to use: Suggest 3-M Adhesive Cleaner instead of Brake Cleaner. The brake stuff is fairly 'mean' with toluene in it !!!! And it evaporates too fast for an overall cleaner. The 3-M product # is 08984 in a qt. or 08987 in a spray can Reconnect electrical. Then flush system. Directions on flushing system: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...power++steering Or: http://www.lexls.com/psflush.html It takes about 7 to 8 quarts to flush most systems clean one time. Use Dextron III Transmission fluid. Valvoline makes a good one for High Mileage cars. After flushing system it is best to re-clean the screen again. Checking the Solenoid electrically: Measure the resistance on the solenoid. It should be between 6 and 11 ohm. After this check the operation. Connect battery terminals to the solenoid. when you look at the connector the left one is - and right one is +. Check that the solenoid makes clicks sound.. don’t apply voltage for more then 30 sec otherwise you will burn it.. if you have to repeat the procedure wait till it cools down so you can touch it with your hand. If there is no click sound replace the pressure control valve with the solenoid valve. Checking the power steering ECU. There is a PPS ECU specifically put there for the purpose of switching the solenoid on and off. Its located under the steering wheel right next to tilt & telescopic ECU. Check the voltage between the ECU - and ground connectors. - connector is in the upper left corner and ground is in lower left corner if you look at the connector while its plugged in into the ecu. voltage should be between 0.15 and 0.2 V with the engine idling. lift the car and put it in Drive. check the voltage while car running at 60 mph. it should be between 0.04 and 0.16 V. If its no you have to get yourself a new ECU. Don’t forget to check the wire from the ECU to the solenoid and make sure its ok might be just a wire problem Picture of solenoid and nut (in this photo here he asks is this the Solenoid and do you pound here, the answer is yes) : http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...&cmd=si&img=217 If needed rebuild of Power steering pump: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...?showtopic=9851 If needed information on the Air Control Valve (located on the side of the Power Steering Pump).: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...36&hl=air+valve and: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=10364&hl= and this guy states he can get parts… I have no idea if he is good or bad……. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...threadid=125839

I will post the outcome for all to see. Again thanks. I'lll try calling Walt in the a.m.

Again, thanks for the help and info. Bob I would love directions on doing it myself. I can always buy those ramps or a chip floor jack and stands from Auto zone or Pep boys.

Love you guys! Thanks. I have been doing the research. I am positive it is the valve on the rack. I will call the guy in Thousand Oaks, again thanks. I use to live in the vally so I know the area. I'll try to injoy my time here, but I have gotten use to a place with no traffic. Not even on a Friday at 5:30 P.M... Now for the latist: Also strange, but the problem has almost gone away. I was making a right hand turn at about 5 miles an hour when suddenly I got my power steering back. I have driven about 50 miles today and it is staying good. Before I had no power steering under about 2,500 rpm. Now it is almost all back. I only loose power steering under 900 rpm. I am positive it is the assist valve located on the drivers side of the rack. I’m sure the screen on it was clogged and it is clearing itself. But I still plain on getting the unit fixed before I leave L.A. Again thanks for the help. It's got to be the valve etc., as if it was the pump or the rack it would not have come back. And I have no loss of fluid.

:cries: I apologize if this is not the place to post this or if this is considered a no-no, but I’m desperate! Help. I have no idea what to do. I’m on a road trip and my power steering is going out? I’m spending the night searching the internet and posting to find help. Please, Please, Please… HELP….I have a 91 LS400 about 100,000 miles. For the last few months after driving high speed in mostly straight roads. If I pulled off the highway and made a slow speed tight right turn, I would loose power steering for a second or two. This only happened after driving at least 80 miles and then not every time. And never on a left turn. I called a few dealers about it 3 had no idea. One told me to flush the power steering fluid. And the last one told me to bring it in and get ready to pay $2000.00 for a complete new power steering unit and rack! Thought the last guy was nuts. Took it to a locale guy to flush the system (I live 100 mile from the closest dealer). After the flush, the power steering was really bad when the car was at low rpm or at a stop. Garage told me air got in the line. Just drive the car and it will be O.K. air will work out of the lines. I have driven the car (500 miles). I have simply sat parked and turned the wheel left to right full lock over 50 times. It has been 2 days. Steering is getting worse not better!!!!! Also fluid looks really dirty?? Strange as it was not only replaced but flushed???? Reservoir is full. No fliud loss. Help. I have to drive another 800 miles. May arms are getting sore and this can’t be safe. Please any thoughts?????? System makes no noise or strange sounds runs quite. Works good at speed over 2,500 rmp. I have seen stuff about an assist valve, and screens to clean, but don’t know if this is the ticket or not. Any info on the location of the 3 screens that should be cleaned. Can this be done in a parking lot with basically a screw driver, pliers and a wrench… I’m on the road so not any real tools with me…. I’m in California by Magic Mountain now. Any good independents out this way???? I can stay in town and go to shop on Monday. Thanks to all and to all Happy motoring.