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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/01/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    The general rule is that if a repair or repairs within a short period of time are equal to or greater than 50% of the value of the car, then it may be time to buy a replacement vehicle.
  2. 1 point
    Warranties are not affected by the installation of tow hitches unless it can be proved that the hitch caused the failure of a vehicle component. If a hitch is super important to you then it's best to verify that a hitch is available before purchasing a vehicle. The cost of custom fabricated hitches can vary wildly. I suggest getting several bids. I'm going to have a class II trailer hitch fabricated for a new mid-engine Corvette C8 convertible so I can plug a bike rack into it and I won't be surprised if the total cost is well over $1,000 but that's a nit considering it's an $80,000+ car. I will provide a detailed design to the fabricator.
  3. 1 point
    1992 Starter Replacement - by Landar This is a link of starter replacement. You don't need to go that far to replacing a starter but removing the manifold is a step in the process.
  4. 1 point
    This is a pretty general statement. What makes you think you have a fuel pump problem? Can you describe the symptoms?
  5. 1 point
    I had the same problem at about the same mileage on the 2000 LS400 I drove for 11 years. Verify that the battery posts and cable clamps are spotlessly clean and that your battery is in good condition. And verify that power steering fluid is not dripping on the alternator but that's pretty rare on the 1998-2000 LS400 - it was a common problem on the 90-94 LS400. It would have to be very leaky valve covers for oil from them to get on the alternator. It's not a problem if valve covers only slightly weep oil as long as it does not flow from them. The valve covers on a Camry V6 we used to have weeped oil for years with no detectable oil loss and we finally had it fixed only because the car went to a nephew. Unfortunately, it may be the starter going bad. Have the starter tested to see if it's drawing excess current. Apparently it's a quick test for someone who knows what they are doing. Replacing the starter is a fairly complex operation due to its location. I think I paid about $900 in around 2012 at an independent repair shop that specializes in Lexus vehicles but that was substantially less than what the Lexus dealership would have charged. After the starter replacement, I drove the car another 30,000 miles to 180,000 miles with no problems until I sold it in 2014.
  6. 1 point
    I appreciated the suggestions in this post when replacing my upstream sensors. I have no idea why the O2 heater low current test (runs only at engine start) also trips a VSC fault. But, like others my check engine light cleared immediately with new sensors and it seemed like a couple of starts and a short drive cleared the VSC issue as well. After having issues with getting test monitors to pass in several other vehicles, I simply drove the car for a month to let the stored fault code clear before getting a SMOG test. If anyone is following the Lexus LS 430 repair manuals, the inspection procedure on page 05-61 has a heater resistance specification at 5 to 10 ohms. The fault in my sensor was obvious, the heater circuit open. Both the opposite OEM side sensor and the new sensors all had heaters with resistance of 15 ohms, and I replaced both upstream sensors. I could not find / make a tool the separate the connectors and cut the drivers side sensor side connector in pieces, I would NOT recommend doing that as too much possibility to damage the body harness and spicing in a generic connector would be a better option. I also cut the small plastic tab off the new sensor connectors so they would not lock (used tie warps on the harness to ensure they stay mated). Therefore, the connectors would just pull apart in case I ever have to do this again. My guess is the more common fault is bank 1 (drivers side) due to the more extensive use of heat shields on that side.
  7. 1 point
    Update, it turns out that the VSC warning was triggered by a failed O2 heater. Haven't found anyone that knows about a connection from the simple, only at engine start, test for low O2 heater current and the VSC. However, the VSC issue was noted on some of the discussions on the O2 sensor. Mine was the very common bank 1 (driver's side), sensor 1 fault, possibly common as the sensor is surrounded by some heat shields and probably runs hotter than the sensor on the other side. A bit painful to change the sensors, somewhat complicated by which orientation the connector is in. Mine connector was in an impossible position to push the tab, so I cut the connector on the sensor in pieces very carefully and pulled it apart. I would NOT recommend doing that, if you can't get the connectors apart the splice in a generic sensor. The O2 sensor fault was cleared immediately and a couple of engine starts plus a short drive later the VSC warning went away. Therefore, my old battery charger did not cause the VSC issue.
  8. 1 point
    The first pi The first pic is the fill hole for the coolant. You remove the bolt to bleed the system. I have a 98 which is slightly different but here's a video to get you started. I would flush the whole system if it were my car. The coolant seems to have a leak and is crusty. The coolant probably has NEVER been changed. I would also refill with Toyota red coolant or the equivalent you can find at advance auto which is Zerex Asian. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGGwyjv36OU The second pic is the heater valve which control the heat in the car. The 2 hoses are supposed to be connected to the valve which opens and closes when you change the heat settings.
  9. 1 point
    No, it's available to whoever owns the car.
  10. 1 point
    IIRC, the warranty extension on this problem was to 10 years from the car's in-service date but I suggest you take your car to a Lexus dealership and confirm. It doesn't, or at least didn't, matter if you aren't the original owner. 10 years past the in-service date is a common period for a warranty extension like this. A similar 10-year extension was recently announced on several expensive components on one of our Toyotas after a class action lawsuit settlement.
  11. 1 point
    I suppose you could open the trunk pass through door behind the rear seat armrest. If your LS430 had the Ultra Luxury package with the separate rear HVAC system, that might have been why its trunk temperature was closer to that of the interior.
  12. 1 point
    Be very careful since you can potentially trash the engine. It seems like the pistons are contacting the valves. I would make sure that everything is in the correct position before proceeding and I can't be sure without knowing what you did before you removed the belt. Are you using a factory service manual or one of the online tutorials?
  13. 1 point
    A video clip of what is going on may help. A video is worth a thousand words.
  14. 1 point
    As a way of giving this thread a bump, and thanking the previous posters, I encountered this problem in my 2004 GX this week, and was able to get the replacement relay from Autozone for $16. Easy fix, and the second time I've had to do it (once around 100k miles, and now at 217k miles). Thanks!
  15. 1 point
    My 2011 RX450h has 40,000 miles on it. The auxiliary (battery that starts the car) battery is original. Lexus service tests the battery at each service interval and the battery tests good. Eight years is a long time for a battery to last. As I understand it, the original battery is a glass based battery; not lead. This type of battery usually last longer, but I do not want to wait for the battery to die and be left stranded. Any of you with Lexus hybrids have any input regarding at what point you replaced the auxiliary (the one that starts the car) battery? Thanks!
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Some of these garages seem to be like politicians, no scruples at all. Too bad. I used super glue with a brush, and had to hold each part for a minute or so until glue set up. Of course U know the timing belt is most important when it's due. 100k I believe at the most, possibly with a water pump, (while they're in there) All the luck.
  18. 1 point
    I know this is a late comment, but I just looked here for some info on my Lexus. I'm a retired electronic engineer in medical x-ray, CT etc. and deal with both high voltage and low voltage/high current circuits. I wonder if that quote of 5 ohms should have been <0.5 ohms, as at 12 volts, 5 ohms is a huge amount of resistance and a starter motor would not turn over. Even headlights would draw enough current to severely drop the voltage. The main battery leads + and - are heavy (25mm2 Copper) to reduce resistance. I look for around 0.01 ohm max to the chassis or starter motor. Two headlamps at 65W (130w) will draw 10.88 Amps at 12V ( 130/12 = 10.88A) The resistance of the two headlamps is calculated by R = E ÷ I (E =Volts, I = Amps) Therefore 12v / 10.88 = 1.1 ohm. Therefore even a 1 ohm resistance in the wiring will halve the voltage at the headlights and a 5 ohm resistance will hardly make them glow. The lower the voltage the more important resistance is. This is why AC mains is supplied for great distances at very high voltages- Here in New Zealand we use 230V which can operate with less copper in the wires than in USA at 120V A starter motor may draw say 100Amps (100 x 12 volts = 1200 Watts) and the starter motor will have a resistance of 0.12 ohms. Thus even 0.1 ohm resistance in the wires will approximately halve the voltage and may not allow the starter to turn over. Meanwhile a lot of heat is being generated in the starter leads. I have found there is much confusion in understanding the relationships between Resistance; Watts; Amps and Voltage even in auto and domestic electrical trades. Once you get your head around it, it becomes basic nature. I learned this analogy at College in the 60's - "A Volt chased an Amp thru an Ohm" Likewise, 10 volts will chase 10 Amps thru 1 ohm; and,,, 10 volts will chase 1 Amp through 10 Ohms. The formulas are available online.
  19. 1 point
    Not really unless you are driving under about 10 mph very gently. Even then, range in EV mode is very low. Does the internal combustion engine shut down at least some of the time when you are stopped at a traffic light? If it does then the traction battery is functioning to some extent. If you are doing a lot of highway driving, you might be noticing that the hybrid version of the RX doesn't get much better gas mileage than the regular RX. From the 2008 RX and RX hybrid sales brochures: RX:Fuel Consumption 18/23 mpg (FWD)19 (estimated city/highway) 17/22 mpg (AWD)19 RX Hybrid: Fuel Consumption 27/24 mpg (FWD) (EPA estimated city/highway) 26/24 mpg (AWD) EPA fuel consumption estimates are widely seen as fantasy. We've rarely achieve EPA estimates on our vehicles. For example, my wife's 2012 Prius v hybrid - owned since new - has been averaging only 32 mpg in mostly city (35 mph to 45 mph) driving. It's EPA city/highway estimates are 44/40 mpg. Of course, the battery in her Prius is over 7 years old and might be getting weak although the car has only 43,000 miles on it. Her low city fuel economy could be related to her rarely driving more than 15 miles/day and there aren't many traffic lights or downhill slopes that would trigger regenerative braking on the routes she takes. Traction battery charging is totally dependent on regenerative braking. I have to assume that a Lexus dealership could test your traction battery and the regenerative system for health. If your traction battery is weak and you want to replace it, there are several companies that sell re-manufactured ones ... like: https://greenbeanbattery.com/lexus-rx400h-hybrid-battery-replacement/ A traction battery supplier like Green Bean Battery should be able to tell you if traction batteries for new model years can be used in your RX.
  20. 1 point
    Nice review - thanks!
  21. 1 point
    LOL. Oh you poor thing. Get a nice low mileage SC430 for a price you couldn't pass up. I love my Pie Plates. They take about 15 seconds to wipe down. Paul
  22. 1 point
    I'm going to have new OEM fit Bilstein struts put on the back of the '02 GS300 - hoping to be better than those brands, but I can let you know later this week how compares to when it was new.
  23. 1 point
    Cool. Let me know what parts you end up using. If you dont need the parts today, I would suggest ordering online and saving a significant amount of money. Paul
  24. 1 point
    Check the alternator. This is an indication that your alternator mat not be charging properly. I assume that this occurs when the engine is hot, with lights and ac both on. I have had this problem. My mechanic sort of gave up calling it an age issue, and recommended replacing the 80amp alternator with a 100amp ... Seems to have resolved my problem (same as yours)
  25. 1 point
    Well I hope the German brand you have now isn't Mercedes, BMW or VW/Audi! If so, then your troubles are just beginning. The vehicles I've owned that were manufactured by Toyota have been infinitely more reliable and of higher quality than the German vehicles I've owned. My last Mercedes, purchased new, was on its 3rd engine when I finally dumped it and bought a new Lexus LS.
  26. 1 point
    I have a certified 2016 es300h and updated the nav after purchase bc the nav was already 3+ years old. I bought the chip from dealer with discount and the upgraded myself. The upgrade is started in the map menu, then follow the screen instructions very easy. 10 minotes and done
  27. 1 point
    Hi Lydia, thank you for letting me know! I ended up not getting the car as it turned out to have very rusty brakes and a salvage title. I did get a 2010 Lexus RX 350 though. ( : Thanks again! -Amy
  28. 1 point
    Welcome to the Lexus Owners Club Charles! Pearl white is one of my fave colors.
  29. 1 point
    Barbara H, I agree with paying to get another diagnosis, as hopefully you might get an explanation as to why the trunk release and fan speeds are affected with your nav screen issues. That said, a recent 2 part YouTube video on a Subaru water leak caused a TPMS failure (module is under the driver's seat in a subie and shorted out due to water flooding) that also caused the radio to malfunction, the speedometer not to work, and a complete communications failure of the diagnostics system for the car. Once the car was dried out and the TPMS module replaced, the radio, speedo and OBDII communications all started to work again. What I'm getting at is that many of your car's systems' issues can sometimes be caused by just one part failure. Maybe they are all related? Your best bet after the 2nd diagnosis is a refurbished unit if it backs up your first diagnosis. Its the cheapest route for you on a 9 year old car. (And no, you can't have the one from my wife's car.) Good Luck!
  30. 1 point
    There are too many possibilities to speculate which is why you need a trained tech with appropriate equipment to diagnose. If I had to guess, the problem might be a defective spark plug coil. But a defective engine or transmission mount could cause a similar vibration.
  31. 1 point
    IiAccessing Antenna Motor for 2000 LX470 in Ten Steps. The notched plastic cable came lose from my antenna and reeled-in completely into the motor; I could not replace the antenna without first removing that cable from the motor. 1. Remove the mast from the motor, by loosening and removing the bolt that secures it to the car fender. Put this bolt somewhere safe. 2. There is plastic cowling under the passenger-side wheel well. (It’s probably helpful to remove the front right tire/wheel, but not required; I just turned the wheel as far to left as possible and that provided good access.) 3. There are about 8 plastic rivets to pop-out, and two screws; you don’t need to take the piece completely out; just remove enough to gain access to the antenna motor. You’ll probably break the rivets when removing them and you’ll need replacements. You can get these from your dealer, however I found some generic plastic auto-body rivets at Ace Hardware that worked fine. 4. Once you can bend-back the cowling and access the motor, you’ll see the motor is fastened to one bracket with one bolt. Remove this bolt and the motor comes free. 4. It may require a little wiggling, but the motor should drop out. Carefully move the plastic protective cover. And then carefully unsnap the power cable connection. Note: I left the radio antenna wire connected. 5. To open the motor, there are about 5 or 6 screws to remove. It’s very greasy, so surgical gloves were helpful to wear. It’s sealed very tightly with grease, so you have to pry it open. 6. Once open, remove the broken plastic cable and then tightly reassemble the motor. 7. Reconnect the power cable and repackage the motor in the plastic protective wrap. 8. Slide the motor back in place loosely. Before tightening it in place to the bracket, push the mount through the fender mast hole and reattach the nut; this assures it’s at the proper height to be tightly secured. Once this is done, securely tighten the bracket bolt. 9. Now you can remove the exterior fender nut and install a new antenna mast. (Lesson learned: buy an OEM Toyota/Lexus mast. It’s are expensive, but worth it. I found myself in this predicament because I bought a cheap replacement on Amazon.com.) There are a number of posts and “how to’s” for reinstalling a new electric antenna mast ... so I won’t go into those details here. 10. Once you’ve reinstalled the antenna and are confident it’s working correctly, replace and remount the plastic wheel cowling. You should be good to go!
  32. 1 point
    Is there a product that I can install tha twill give me AUX input in my non Nav stereo? I would like to hook up my Sirius. This is on a 2000 LS400.
  33. 1 point
    I recently purchased (Sept 18) a 2002 Lexus RX300 2WD 123K, that was only owned by one other person. It does have some minor body dents and dings, the interior is like new. When I purchased it the MILwas on and the DTC code was P0440. I started checking for Vac line leaks as that is what the Lexus dealer had told the previous owners. Then suddenly the VSC and TRAC off lights came on and now the DTC are P1135, P1155, and C1201. I cannot believe that both of the A/F sensors would go bad at the same time.
  34. 1 point
    I have a 2000 RX300. Last year, it happened once. I took the key out and the engine didn't turn off. It was still running. I tried several times putting the key in/out but it still kept running. I drove it around and after driving little bit, it finally turned off. It worked fine for almost a year and it happened again. This time, same thing, many tries on using key in/out did nothing, the engine still was running so I drove it around but it died while driving. I smelt something burning on the exhaust. Now I can't get it to start back again. Thankfully, it's in a parking lot currently. I'll try to get a jump start later and see if that works. What do you guys think? What's happening?
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    installed these moldings myself..as per previous post..
  37. 1 point
    Anything can break at any time. If you happen to be Irish, that means often.
  38. 1 point
    My coolant temperature gauge doesn't work. The needle went down very slowly over the course of couple of years. Now it stays at the lowest level and won't move. What should I do? Replacing with a new gauge or replacing some capacitors or something else? (It's a 1990 L'S 400 with 432000 miles). Please help. Thanks
  39. 1 point
    Assume you have AWD since you said 17 (RWD usually come with 18 stock) OEM 17 should be 17x8 +45, with 225/45R17 square all around The 2IS body is really designed for a stagger setup, so the rear fender is much more aggressive than the front I am currently running 18x8.75 +35 with 225/40R18, front is pretty flush but rear is still tucked in (because of statement above) Future plans to go 18x9 +25 to +30 ish, with either 225/40R18 or possibly try to fit 235/40R18 Key is to stay within 3% of total diameter from stock tire size Also, rule of thumb when upsizing wheel diameter is to have tires down by 5% of width Example, in my case Stock = 225/45R17 1 UP = 225/40R18 2 UP = 225/35R19 3 UP = 225/30R20 ***with exceptions for specific cases where you need to go narrower (215, etc.) in order to fit and prevent rubbing A better upgrade from 225/45R17 would be 255/35/R18 (or 255/30R19)...which is closer to stock diameter than 225/40R18 (or 225/35R19)...........however it's hard to fit 255/35R18 or 255/30R19 in the front depending on suspension height and wheel offset Anyways, for an AWD, 18x8.5 19x8.5 18x9 19x9 square setups are the norm Many go for stagger setups on the AWD 2IS as well keeping front and rear rolling diameter within 1%, however this is done at your own discretion (best combinations are 235/35R19 front with 275/30R19 rear, or 225/35R19 front with 265/30R19 rear) EDIT: in regards to bigger/heavier wheels slowing you down Yes heavier wheels not only slow you down due to added weight, but also puts more stress on suspension components due to added unsprung weight. That's why most people when changing wheels go for lighter wheels. This can be offset by added tire weight, but depending on combination most end up with a net loss in weight (which is a good thing). Lowering = lower center of gravity = less body roll and better handling Wider (both width and offset wise) = more stability and better handling But of course there are downsides such as alignment issues which can be corrected
  40. 1 point
    Hmm, dead post,oh well. So I will post my answer based on my experience today. I did some searches and most were dead wrong with a few being right on battery replacement . That is a probelm, sorting out the guys who guessed and never did it to the guys who knew and did it. This was a trip and even the Lexus dealer gave me a wrong answer. One wrong answer and I won't believe anything you say. Changing the battery is just like any other old car. Nothing special and nothing to worry about if you have done it before. Short out a lead and you have had it. . 1 The radio- If you have a dot blinking on and off that means it has a security code # . Don't install the battery but take it to the dealer and get hosed. My radio had never been assigned a code number and there is no danger of locking it up. 2. Some cars but NOT the LS 460 require a 9V jumper in the cigar lighter to keep all electronics live. Lexus has a built in hold up so you will not have to worry about anything being lost. The cigar lighter can not be used with a hold up because it is disconnected when the car is turned off. I checked it with a voltmeter. . Do NOT turn the car on so you can use it. I have no idea what might happen but you would probably be in a lot of trouble.$$$$ Tools needed a .Screwdriiver to pry battery terminal open after the bolts have been losened. b, spanner wrench 10MM and 11MM for undoing terminal clamps on battery. c . Phillips screw driver to press clips open d. roll of duct tape TURN OFF ALL THINGS IN THE CAR AND PLACE THE KEY FOB IN ANOTHER ROOM !! Start by removing two plastic panels on the passengers side covering the battery. There is one big panel over the front wheel and one small panel near the cowl with rubber weather seal that have to be removed. Gently fold over the small panel toward the drivers side. To remove the panels locate the clips. Push in the center, you will hear a click. Push them all in. They are all loose and if you pick the panel up, for sure, you will loose a few. Cover them with duct tape so they don't pop out. or store in a box. I had several clips missing from the dealers work and or Jiffy Lube. Before you start buy a full set from Lexus. You need these anyway after the miscreants work on your car. in the future. The clips are not user frendly and tricky. With the panels off, the battery is in plain sight and very easy to get out compared to a Jag I once owned. You will have to unbolt the terminals. and a hold down clamp . First roll up all the windows and turn everything off incuding AC and the radio. Remove the key fob starter to another room . You don't want to turn the car on with the Fob. If you do you are dead meat. Prepare a series about 8" long of duct tape. Fold back about 1" on each end and stick it to the other side. Unbolt the hold down fixture. It has one nut. Duct tape the rod to the front side so it can't flop forward and get in the way while the new battery is being installed. Using the 10MM and 11MM spaner undo the hot + lead toward the drivers first. Use extreme caution do not tiouch the spanner or lead to the frame and short it out. When the terminal is unbolted you may have to use a screw driver to pry it open so you can remove it. When it comes off cover it with the duct tape you prepared so no metal shows. Move it to one side. There is a lot of room but keep it away from metal. Using the spanner again repeat the process and move the minus - lead to one side. Pull out the old battery and install the new one. Very easy to do. Install the clamp down holder. Place the plastic panels in place. The clips have to be reset. Lift from panel and push in the center part so it sticks above the out side ring. I used channel locks. Its not easy. You may loose some. I told you to have replacements on hand. Listen up. Insert the clip and push down. That's easy. You can off course remove all the clips and place in a box for safe keeping. Your choice. All done. If you are an expert battery installer just rip the old battery out and install the new one. There is nothing that you have to do to protect the settings that I know of. This was confirmed by some others advice. Then there were others talking about using a 9 V hold up and a bunch of other nonsense. Who do you trust? I'm a engineer, MSEE and paid cash for our LS460. However anyone can say that. Good luck. This took me 15 minutes to install and two days to find out nobody knew how to do it. Rant- what's with our education system that kids can graduate and know absolutely nothing about electricity but stuff about Zeus ? Unreal, in this electrically driven world. Rant #2 How can we expect an electric car to work for years when I have to replace the battery in my Gas powered car every 4 years? Batteries suck and guess what? Toyota said that just last week as they pulled the plug on their all electric car.
  41. 1 point
    guy4rmsky, There are 4 sunroof drain tubes, two up front that exit down the A pillars, and two that run from the rear side channels of the sunroof, and exit down through the C pillar and out between the rear bumper cover and the sheet metal, just back of the rear wheel. If those rear drains are plugged, or the drain hose has come off the tube at the sunroof channel, you'll get water into the back seat area. If the tube has come off, its usually because the plastic tubing has aged and split. Sometimes you can put a long copper tube on the end of a compressor hose, and with the sunroof partially opened, get it back to the rear of the sunroof side channel and blow out the drain tube. The only other way is to pull the weatherstrip from around the rear door, remove the rear seat bottom and back, pop the C pillar moulding off, remove the overhead assist strap, and gently pull down the headliner to get at the end of the drain tube and reattach it or replace it. The only other way for water to get into the back seat area, is through the trunk seal, the tail lights or the rear windshield. Sometimes the shape of the trunk floor will allow water from these areas to flow forward and into the back seat area. You have some detective work on your hands. Good Luck!
  42. 1 point
    Thanks for the compliments :) By convert i meant you can simply buy the OEM HID version Rx330/350/400h headlights and switch them out with yours. The headlights size and bolt patterns are exactly the same (not 100% sure- but based on experience, it tells me they are). You don't need to take the headlights apart at all. The wires for the ballast etc can be accessed from outside of the headlights, so you should be good with that too :) Now, there are TWO "types" of the HID Rx330/350 version headlights. Obviously there's the halogen type (the type you have) but there are TWO different types for the HID headlights- which look exactly the same from the outside, so it can be tricky. The first HID version has an HID projector and bulb, with only the auto-leveling. (No AFS function) The second HID version uses a similar HID projector and bulb, but has the components for both the auto leveling AND the AFS system. Aka some 04-09 Rx330/350's out there have HID without the AFS. So if you see an Rx330/350 with HID's, it still not might have AFS. The 06-09 Rx400h's all came with the HID with AFS, but the Rx330 and Rx350's mixed and match. The only way to tell the difference between "HID with AFS" and "HID without AFS" is by looking at the back side of the headlights. I don't have pics, but when researching the headlights you should be able to tell the difference. Some sellers might say "non-AFS" and "AFS" to differentiate the two, but it's best to look. Just don't assume because you see the projector that it must have AFS... The last thing you want to do is get the right side headlight being the HID AFS version and the left side headlight the HID non-AFS version. You'll be able to tell the difference in output and cutoff line shape between the two ;) If you want, you might want to get the HID non-AFS version headlights, this way you can avoid having to worry about aiming the AFS motors... BUT, the projector used in this non-AFS version headlight does not perform as well as the AFS version headlight projector. Personally, i would get the HID AFS version headlights just for the better output :)
  43. 1 point
    It seems that I might have a similar problem. At speeds of 120/130 km/h the engine seems to hold back when you lift off the gas pedal and than want to accelerate again. You have to really punch it to pick up speed again. Same thing happened on a roundabout at 20/30 km/h when it had to be really kicked to get some speed again. But it happens only every now and then. Now I want to check the pedal position sensor and the connector / multiplug as described in this topic. Can anyone point it out to me (pictures??) because my wife has to look at it since I'm in a wheelchair for the moment. Michel
  44. 1 point
    I finally got the stock sub working with my aftermarket stereo. No audio integration harness is needed. All you need is a RCA to speaker wire cable and tap into the Sub + and Sub - wires (black wire and white wire). I was following the diagram http://www.intellexual.net/faq/lexusstereo.swf for Socket D and it lists the Sub + signal as D1 and Sub - signal as D5 ; however that did not work so I thought maybe I was looking at the diagram backwards. So I tried tapping the speaker wire to D4 and D10 and heard the subwoofer. So it appears you need to tap into D4 and D10 instead of D1 and D5. Great day. Got the subwoofer working and installed the double DIN Metra kit.
  45. 1 point
    I am wanting to raise my GS300 up on jack stands to in order to remove all four brake rotors for service. Where is a safe place to lift the car with a floor jack other than the scissor jack points on the side of the car? There was a previous message on this back in 04, but the question was never answered. Thanks for the help.
  46. 1 point
    It is rather simple and not much to worry about . To remove the wheel disconnect the battery for atleast 10 minutes.You will lose all memory radio and time settings. This will discharge the SRS system, it only needs about 1 minute but i would rather wait longer. You will need to remove the side flaps to get to the torx screws at each side. This will loosen the airbag ,after that you have to attach a steering wheel puller to pop off the wheel which is flanged incase the nut falls off. Just disconnect when you are done ,that is it.
  47. 1 point
    I came here today specifically looking for a thread like this. I am so unhappy with my dealer right now I could scream. Long story short, EVERY time I take it in for something that should be warrantied, they try to tell me it's not covered. I have the 100,000 Certified Lexus Warranty and currently have 76,000 miles on my 2000 RX300. The latest is weird-the HANDLE on the back hatch broke! I did not do anything to it-one day I tried to open it and it just jiggled-kind of like when it's locked. So I take it in and it takes them 90 minutes to tell me that the handle is broken and they need to order a part. And that they called the Corporation and it is NOT covered under warranty. AND it will cost ME $423.00!! I am so stunned. I paid extra money for this vehicle so that I would have the certified warranty. I could have purchased it from a non-Lexus dealer for much cheaper, but thought I would have better coverage by going through THEIR dealer. We called Lexus and "Raul" told us he'll speak to his boss and get back to us within 2 days. I am seriously considering NOT buying another Lexus because there are only two dealers within a reasonable driving distance from me and this is BS. Plus this stupid dealer once again did NOT have a loaner for me so I had to sit there the whole time. I am thoroughly disappointed by this and hope that the corporation will help me out. Otherwise I know for sure I will NOT buy another Lexus. I'll be in the market for a new SUV within the next year, and I'll tell you, right now the BMW is looking mighty nice. VERY DISAPPOINTED IN LEXUS OF BROOKFIELD, WISCONSIN Jill
  48. 1 point
    We bought an '04 RX330 FWD 18" wheels, black on tan interior w/birds eye wood trim. We bought it in feb'05 w/17K on it and now have 25k. 1. Dash rattle. (Full TSB performed were they take off the dash and insulate the mounting clips. solved the problem) 2. Both visors replaced due to defect in flip up motion of vanity mirror. 3. Rubber exhaust hanger broken. (replaced by dealer) 4. Brake recall performed (switch changed by dealer) 5. Cup holder cover mechanism was sticking. (unstuck by dealer) 6. Injector ticking (yet to be serviced) 7. Hesitation (yet to be serviced) 8. Passenger side wind noise i think (yet to be serviced). All service and work done at Lexus of Bossier City LA
  49. 1 point
    I have the same problem with both of my RX300s. It seems like the idle is running low when the car is sitting in drive. When I put it in park, the idle goes up slightly and the vibration noise goes away. I'm sure there is a way to modify the car to fix the problem.
  50. 1 point
    I have a 2001 RX 300 with a noisy exhaust. The dealer told me the noise was coming from a spring in the exhaust but they want $200 to fix it. I'm wondering if anyone else has had the same problem. The dealership is Larry Miller of Lindon, Ut. I am the second owner of the car. Car has 50,000 miles on it.



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