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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/14/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    You're welcome. The speedometer needle in my '98 sticks (rarely) depending on the ambient temperature. I have read elsewhere that the problem is the instrument lube that's used in the gauge heads get sticky with age. The only real fix is to remove the cluster and have an instrument repair shop deal with it. There is a chance that he gauge cluster might have a bad connection at the circuit board ribbon cables, etc.
  2. 1 point
    Maybe I'm missing something but what is the actual problem you're having?
  3. 1 point
    I used to be a regular lurker here and on many occasion, used the vast cumulative knowledge base of these forums to work my 1997 LS 400 (owned since new). Last year I gave it to charity. Today I came across the Toyota LEXUS Wiring Diagram book I purchased for the sole purpose of discerning the wiring harness for my failed Nakamichi system. If you want it, message me. All I ask is that you pay $8.40 flat rate postage. Publication number: EWD283U
  4. 1 point
    Recently purchased a 2004 SC430 - black with saddle - 157k. Have wanted one since 2002 when I saw one in the showroom. Long story short, I located one in Texas and after speaking with the owner, decided it was a worth making a deal. While waiting for the car to arrive in Colorado, I signed up for Lexus Owners Club and read as much as I could about the strengths and weaknesses of the car. All I can say is LOC is a fantastic resource for any Lexus owner, but I found it particularly valuable for my newly acquired SC. So far, I have replaced front and rear shocks/struts, both upstream O2 sensors, front brakes and rotors. Within the next month I will replace water pump, tensioners and timing belt. (previous owner did it around 95k) All repairs have been done based on recommendations and information obtained from LOC forums. The suggestions for aftermarket parts were invaluable - as were the recommendations for OEM parts. Repairs were accomplished by a local independent Toyota mechanic I have known for awhile. Cosmetically - the car is in very nice condition. It was garaged most of the time and it shows. Bottom line is a HUGE thank you to all the other SC owners for sharing your knowledge and resources on this forum. Thanks to you, I am enjoying the hell out of this car and plan to have it for many years to come. Here's a photo:
  5. 1 point
    Warranties are not affected by the installation of tow hitches unless it can be proved that the hitch caused the failure of a vehicle component. If a hitch is super important to you then it's best to verify that a hitch is available before purchasing a vehicle. The cost of custom fabricated hitches can vary wildly. I suggest getting several bids. I'm going to have a class II trailer hitch fabricated for a new mid-engine Corvette C8 convertible so I can plug a bike rack into it and I won't be surprised if the total cost is well over $1,000 but that's a nit considering it's an $80,000+ car. I will provide a detailed design to the fabricator.
  6. 1 point
    I have one 1995 as winter car. ( Mark2 ) and a 1998 as summer car. ( mark3 ) . The Mark 3 i like better.
  7. 1 point
    Is excess current from starter good? I'll get someone to check it. I had another 1998 Lexus LS400 I bought in 2003 with 50,000 miles on it. Kept it until it had 270,000 miles on it. Never a problem. Not one. I wrecked front end 10 years ago and couldn't find used parts to fix it or I'd still driving it. Love the cars.
  8. 1 point
    I had the same problem at about the same mileage on the 2000 LS400 I drove for 11 years. Verify that the battery posts and cable clamps are spotlessly clean and that your battery is in good condition. And verify that power steering fluid is not dripping on the alternator but that's pretty rare on the 1998-2000 LS400 - it was a common problem on the 90-94 LS400. It would have to be very leaky valve covers for oil from them to get on the alternator. It's not a problem if valve covers only slightly weep oil as long as it does not flow from them. The valve covers on a Camry V6 we used to have weeped oil for years with no detectable oil loss and we finally had it fixed only because the car went to a nephew. Unfortunately, it may be the starter going bad. Have the starter tested to see if it's drawing excess current. Apparently it's a quick test for someone who knows what they are doing. Replacing the starter is a fairly complex operation due to its location. I think I paid about $900 in around 2012 at an independent repair shop that specializes in Lexus vehicles but that was substantially less than what the Lexus dealership would have charged. After the starter replacement, I drove the car another 30,000 miles to 180,000 miles with no problems until I sold it in 2014.
  9. 1 point
    I appreciated the suggestions in this post when replacing my upstream sensors. I have no idea why the O2 heater low current test (runs only at engine start) also trips a VSC fault. But, like others my check engine light cleared immediately with new sensors and it seemed like a couple of starts and a short drive cleared the VSC issue as well. After having issues with getting test monitors to pass in several other vehicles, I simply drove the car for a month to let the stored fault code clear before getting a SMOG test. If anyone is following the Lexus LS 430 repair manuals, the inspection procedure on page 05-61 has a heater resistance specification at 5 to 10 ohms. The fault in my sensor was obvious, the heater circuit open. Both the opposite OEM side sensor and the new sensors all had heaters with resistance of 15 ohms, and I replaced both upstream sensors. I could not find / make a tool the separate the connectors and cut the drivers side sensor side connector in pieces, I would NOT recommend doing that as too much possibility to damage the body harness and spicing in a generic connector would be a better option. I also cut the small plastic tab off the new sensor connectors so they would not lock (used tie warps on the harness to ensure they stay mated). Therefore, the connectors would just pull apart in case I ever have to do this again. My guess is the more common fault is bank 1 (drivers side) due to the more extensive use of heat shields on that side.
  10. 1 point
    Update, it turns out that the VSC warning was triggered by a failed O2 heater. Haven't found anyone that knows about a connection from the simple, only at engine start, test for low O2 heater current and the VSC. However, the VSC issue was noted on some of the discussions on the O2 sensor. Mine was the very common bank 1 (driver's side), sensor 1 fault, possibly common as the sensor is surrounded by some heat shields and probably runs hotter than the sensor on the other side. A bit painful to change the sensors, somewhat complicated by which orientation the connector is in. Mine connector was in an impossible position to push the tab, so I cut the connector on the sensor in pieces very carefully and pulled it apart. I would NOT recommend doing that, if you can't get the connectors apart the splice in a generic sensor. The O2 sensor fault was cleared immediately and a couple of engine starts plus a short drive later the VSC warning went away. Therefore, my old battery charger did not cause the VSC issue.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    The first pi The first pic is the fill hole for the coolant. You remove the bolt to bleed the system. I have a 98 which is slightly different but here's a video to get you started. I would flush the whole system if it were my car. The coolant seems to have a leak and is crusty. The coolant probably has NEVER been changed. I would also refill with Toyota red coolant or the equivalent you can find at advance auto which is Zerex Asian. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGGwyjv36OU The second pic is the heater valve which control the heat in the car. The 2 hoses are supposed to be connected to the valve which opens and closes when you change the heat settings.
  13. 1 point
    I am now at 249k miles on my fantastic RX400h. One of the issues that shows at that mileage are the cooling fans on the radiator failing mechanically. The motor shafts were actually wobbling. Those motors are quite expensive at $200 apiece, total of over $400 for motors. On the other Lexus site a gentleman came up with TYC radiator cooling fan assembly that had motors that could be take off a Toyota Highlander Hybrid 2008 that fit our different shroud assembly. I did this last night and it was a direct fit, including the plugs and harness. Just remove assembly and take fan blades off and remove motors. Here is the final good news, the whole Highlander assembly cost $139 at your favorite site ie Amazon or Rockauto. The shroud from the highlander will not work in our cars as it does not have the expansion tank. You use only the motors and our old fan blades. Top of the morning to everyone.
  14. 1 point
    No, it's available to whoever owns the car.
  15. 1 point
    Sorry you didn't figure the issue out but I still believe all instances of this (in any car) can be traced to the driver. "No production car's engines can overcome their braking system." This is an absolute (and the basis of dragster starts for fastest 1/4 mile times)!
  16. 1 point
    Replace the solenoid is pretty easy and straight forward, difficult part is to identify which one to replace.
  17. 1 point
    Check this thread out. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/910181-ls-400-how-to-replace-transmission-solenoid.html
  18. 1 point
    Several Toyota models (e.g. Highlander, Sienna) used the same brake system that the 2010-2015 Lexus RX used - rotors, pads, everything. I don't remember about the RX but I do remember there being a service campaign that addressed brake disc warping and vibration on the generation 3 Sienna. I have a 2014 Sienna but mine never developed the problems. I did modify components under the vehicle that directed brake cooling airflow per the service bulletin "just in case". I've wondered why I've never had the problems reported by many others especially since my Sienna Limited is heavier than any Highlander or RX and likely stresses the brakes more. One reason might be because I've paid extremely close attention to lug nut torque. Uneven and/or over torquing lug nuts is a known common cause of brake rotor warping. The correct lug nut torque on the RX, Highlander, Sienna and most other vehicles manufactured by Toyota is only 76 ft. lbs. An air wrench should never be used to tighten these lug nuts and they should always be tightened with a manual torque wrench. I've had both Lexus and Toyota dealers tighten lug nuts to over 200 ft. lbs. on too many occasions. One service manager swore that his mechanics never used air wrenches on lug nuts but I then watched as one of his mechanics had to use an air wrench to remove the lug nuts that one of his mechanics had just over-tightened. I've learned to always check lug nut torque with my own torque wrench after someone else messes with my wheels. If I hadn't done that, I wouldn't have been able to change a flat tire on one trip. So ... my 2014 Sienna that has the same brake system as the 2012 RX and is on the original brake rotors and pads front and back at 94,xxx miles. Based on the wear rate, I'll have the original front and rear pads replaced at the same time and the original rotors turned at a little over 110,000 miles when the pads will by then be worn down to the 1 mm minimum specification. Yes, only 1 millimeter of pad thickness is the minimum specification for most Lexus and Toyota vehicles. 1 mm looks scary to the uninformed which is why so many people get scammed into premature brake work. On Lexus vehicles that have electronic brake pad were sensors, the low pad warning in the instrument cluster starts when a brake pad is worn down to about 1.5 mm. My recommendation is to buy a torque wrench if you don't already have one and check and re-torque lug nuts after each time someone removes and re-installs your wheels.
  19. 1 point
    I suppose you could open the trunk pass through door behind the rear seat armrest. If your LS430 had the Ultra Luxury package with the separate rear HVAC system, that might have been why its trunk temperature was closer to that of the interior.
  20. 1 point
    This is the best online tutorial for your car that landar put together. Try to see what you have been missing. 98 1uz-fe Timing Belt And Water Pump Replacement How_to
  21. 1 point
    I finally replaced it. I had to remove the passenger CAT, without removing the darn thing, I had no way to insert the bottom screw (on the top side). I did not need to drop the crossbar or raise the transmission. The car is quiet now.
  22. 1 point
    As a way of giving this thread a bump, and thanking the previous posters, I encountered this problem in my 2004 GX this week, and was able to get the replacement relay from Autozone for $16. Easy fix, and the second time I've had to do it (once around 100k miles, and now at 217k miles). Thanks!
  23. 1 point
    My 2011 RX450h has 40,000 miles on it. The auxiliary (battery that starts the car) battery is original. Lexus service tests the battery at each service interval and the battery tests good. Eight years is a long time for a battery to last. As I understand it, the original battery is a glass based battery; not lead. This type of battery usually last longer, but I do not want to wait for the battery to die and be left stranded. Any of you with Lexus hybrids have any input regarding at what point you replaced the auxiliary (the one that starts the car) battery? Thanks!
  24. 1 point
    I bot a two step plastic unit with a small carpet piece on each step (I think in housewares or etc. I'm getting old and can't remember.) My dog is 65lbs. and I had to work with her to get her to go up the steps, but she finally got the hang of it.
  25. 1 point
    Like everyone before me, I hate the RFT's. I don't have to mention all the abysmal behavior that they cause for this nice car. The big difference with me, and most posts is that I didn't buy this car to win the Grand Prix. I want it to be luxurious first , and very sporty second. Any set of rims that has a 5 bolt holes with a 114.3 MM bolt pattern, and an offset of between 35 to 50 MM will work fine on your SC-430. There is plenty of room in the fender wells. So If you have leaking rims, or don't like the looks of the "Plates, " feel fee to buy just about anything you want with the above spec. 16" through 20" rims are just fine, and will not interfere with your brake calipers. Changing tire size and diameter does not, I repeat, does not adversly effect the handling or tracking of the vehicle. I choose to get not only a comfortable ride, but tires that last about four times as long as the RFT's. I chose the Michelin Primacy MXM4's. These are super quite, very long life, have extremely great handling, and they looks really stylish on the car. The size I got was the 245x45R17. The reason I chose this size is that they have the same tread width for traction, and the same diameter 25.7", so the speedometer stays accurate. Additionally the 45 side wall ratio gave a nicer smoother ride with superb handling. See my Member photo. I bought a set 17" X 7.5" X 40mm offset Velox Borzoi rims from Costco for under five hundered dollars, and the tires under eight hundred dollars. The best money I ever spent on the car! I am just delighted with this choice and strongly recomnd this to anyone who is tired of their SC-430 riding like a truck!
  26. 1 point
    There is a convetion in the US to put a sticker on the engine compartment if the timing belt has been replaced. If there is no sticker, assume it has not been replaced. I just was quoted $950 for a belt and water pump at a Toyota dealer for a 430. A private shop down the street wants $1,400 but guarantees the work for 90k miles.
  27. 1 point
    LOL. Oh you poor thing. Get a nice low mileage SC430 for a price you couldn't pass up. I love my Pie Plates. They take about 15 seconds to wipe down. Paul
  28. 1 point
    A few tips: 1. When looking for a used vehicle, arm yourself with information about it before talking to the owner. Many owner's manual maintenance tables are available online. In this table are maintenance requirements regarding frequency of replacement of air/oil filters, engine oil, coolant, timing belts, etc. 1.1 Conduct a phone interview and ask if the items requiring replacement (based upon the vehicle's mileage) were replaced. Ask the owner if records and/or receipts were retained. Ask about the length of drives to work and back. Short trips of less than 3-5 miles may require more often oil/filter changes. 2. Salvage vehicles can save you quite a bit of money, but precautions should be taken. 2.1 Does the owner have photos of the damage? Rear damage is often preferred. 2.2 Was the damage professionally repaired. Are there receipts? 2.3 Take the vehicle to an auto body shop for inspection/integrity of repair. The underside should also be inspected. 2.4 A good-looking and well-repaired salvage title vehicle should sell for 40-50% less than a clean title vehicle, all other factors being the same (mileage, options, overall condition) 2.5 Keep in mind that ST vehicles can be more difficult to resell but if you plan to keep the vehicle for many years, you can save quite a bit of coin. 3. I bought a salvage title Mazda, 7 years ago and saved $8000 over a non-ST MX5. It has been super-reliable and I have enjoyed it, immensely over the years.
  29. 1 point
    Cool. Let me know what parts you end up using. If you dont need the parts today, I would suggest ordering online and saving a significant amount of money. Paul
  30. 1 point
    Check the alternator. This is an indication that your alternator mat not be charging properly. I assume that this occurs when the engine is hot, with lights and ac both on. I have had this problem. My mechanic sort of gave up calling it an age issue, and recommended replacing the 80amp alternator with a 100amp ... Seems to have resolved my problem (same as yours)
  31. 1 point
    Well I hope the German brand you have now isn't Mercedes, BMW or VW/Audi! If so, then your troubles are just beginning. The vehicles I've owned that were manufactured by Toyota have been infinitely more reliable and of higher quality than the German vehicles I've owned. My last Mercedes, purchased new, was on its 3rd engine when I finally dumped it and bought a new Lexus LS.
  32. 1 point
    I have a certified 2016 es300h and updated the nav after purchase bc the nav was already 3+ years old. I bought the chip from dealer with discount and the upgraded myself. The upgrade is started in the map menu, then follow the screen instructions very easy. 10 minotes and done
  33. 1 point
    It has got a timing belt which (in the UK) should be changed at 100,000 miles or ten years, whichever comes first
  34. 1 point
    Barbara H, I agree with paying to get another diagnosis, as hopefully you might get an explanation as to why the trunk release and fan speeds are affected with your nav screen issues. That said, a recent 2 part YouTube video on a Subaru water leak caused a TPMS failure (module is under the driver's seat in a subie and shorted out due to water flooding) that also caused the radio to malfunction, the speedometer not to work, and a complete communications failure of the diagnostics system for the car. Once the car was dried out and the TPMS module replaced, the radio, speedo and OBDII communications all started to work again. What I'm getting at is that many of your car's systems' issues can sometimes be caused by just one part failure. Maybe they are all related? Your best bet after the 2nd diagnosis is a refurbished unit if it backs up your first diagnosis. Its the cheapest route for you on a 9 year old car. (And no, you can't have the one from my wife's car.) Good Luck!
  35. 1 point
    The general rule is that if a repair or repairs within a short period of time are equal to or greater than 50% of the value of the car, then it may be time to buy a replacement vehicle.
  36. 1 point
    Is there a product that I can install tha twill give me AUX input in my non Nav stereo? I would like to hook up my Sirius. This is on a 2000 LS400.
  37. 1 point
    Sure, have an indie mechanic replace it if it really needs it. There's nothing magical about Lexus dealer service departments except for their high prices and wonderful waiting rooms. I rarely used Lexus dealers for service during the 24 years I drove Lexus LS sedans although the indie shops I used were owned and staffed by former Lexus dealer employees.
  38. 1 point
    My coolant temperature gauge doesn't work. The needle went down very slowly over the course of couple of years. Now it stays at the lowest level and won't move. What should I do? Replacing with a new gauge or replacing some capacitors or something else? (It's a 1990 L'S 400 with 432000 miles). Please help. Thanks
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Hmm, dead post,oh well. So I will post my answer based on my experience today. I did some searches and most were dead wrong with a few being right on battery replacement . That is a probelm, sorting out the guys who guessed and never did it to the guys who knew and did it. This was a trip and even the Lexus dealer gave me a wrong answer. One wrong answer and I won't believe anything you say. Changing the battery is just like any other old car. Nothing special and nothing to worry about if you have done it before. Short out a lead and you have had it. . 1 The radio- If you have a dot blinking on and off that means it has a security code # . Don't install the battery but take it to the dealer and get hosed. My radio had never been assigned a code number and there is no danger of locking it up. 2. Some cars but NOT the LS 460 require a 9V jumper in the cigar lighter to keep all electronics live. Lexus has a built in hold up so you will not have to worry about anything being lost. The cigar lighter can not be used with a hold up because it is disconnected when the car is turned off. I checked it with a voltmeter. . Do NOT turn the car on so you can use it. I have no idea what might happen but you would probably be in a lot of trouble.$$$$ Tools needed a .Screwdriiver to pry battery terminal open after the bolts have been losened. b, spanner wrench 10MM and 11MM for undoing terminal clamps on battery. c . Phillips screw driver to press clips open d. roll of duct tape TURN OFF ALL THINGS IN THE CAR AND PLACE THE KEY FOB IN ANOTHER ROOM !! Start by removing two plastic panels on the passengers side covering the battery. There is one big panel over the front wheel and one small panel near the cowl with rubber weather seal that have to be removed. Gently fold over the small panel toward the drivers side. To remove the panels locate the clips. Push in the center, you will hear a click. Push them all in. They are all loose and if you pick the panel up, for sure, you will loose a few. Cover them with duct tape so they don't pop out. or store in a box. I had several clips missing from the dealers work and or Jiffy Lube. Before you start buy a full set from Lexus. You need these anyway after the miscreants work on your car. in the future. The clips are not user frendly and tricky. With the panels off, the battery is in plain sight and very easy to get out compared to a Jag I once owned. You will have to unbolt the terminals. and a hold down clamp . First roll up all the windows and turn everything off incuding AC and the radio. Remove the key fob starter to another room . You don't want to turn the car on with the Fob. If you do you are dead meat. Prepare a series about 8" long of duct tape. Fold back about 1" on each end and stick it to the other side. Unbolt the hold down fixture. It has one nut. Duct tape the rod to the front side so it can't flop forward and get in the way while the new battery is being installed. Using the 10MM and 11MM spaner undo the hot + lead toward the drivers first. Use extreme caution do not tiouch the spanner or lead to the frame and short it out. When the terminal is unbolted you may have to use a screw driver to pry it open so you can remove it. When it comes off cover it with the duct tape you prepared so no metal shows. Move it to one side. There is a lot of room but keep it away from metal. Using the spanner again repeat the process and move the minus - lead to one side. Pull out the old battery and install the new one. Very easy to do. Install the clamp down holder. Place the plastic panels in place. The clips have to be reset. Lift from panel and push in the center part so it sticks above the out side ring. I used channel locks. Its not easy. You may loose some. I told you to have replacements on hand. Listen up. Insert the clip and push down. That's easy. You can off course remove all the clips and place in a box for safe keeping. Your choice. All done. If you are an expert battery installer just rip the old battery out and install the new one. There is nothing that you have to do to protect the settings that I know of. This was confirmed by some others advice. Then there were others talking about using a 9 V hold up and a bunch of other nonsense. Who do you trust? I'm a engineer, MSEE and paid cash for our LS460. However anyone can say that. Good luck. This took me 15 minutes to install and two days to find out nobody knew how to do it. Rant- what's with our education system that kids can graduate and know absolutely nothing about electricity but stuff about Zeus ? Unreal, in this electrically driven world. Rant #2 How can we expect an electric car to work for years when I have to replace the battery in my Gas powered car every 4 years? Batteries suck and guess what? Toyota said that just last week as they pulled the plug on their all electric car.
  41. 1 point
    Lexus replacement batteries are interstate . A battery installed at the dealer have a 7 year pro rated replacement warranty. A LS 460 does not have a radio code. There are many systems on a LS460 that may need to be re- initialized upon battery replacement . A LS 460 is fastenating technology .
  42. 1 point
    Thanks for the compliments :) By convert i meant you can simply buy the OEM HID version Rx330/350/400h headlights and switch them out with yours. The headlights size and bolt patterns are exactly the same (not 100% sure- but based on experience, it tells me they are). You don't need to take the headlights apart at all. The wires for the ballast etc can be accessed from outside of the headlights, so you should be good with that too :) Now, there are TWO "types" of the HID Rx330/350 version headlights. Obviously there's the halogen type (the type you have) but there are TWO different types for the HID headlights- which look exactly the same from the outside, so it can be tricky. The first HID version has an HID projector and bulb, with only the auto-leveling. (No AFS function) The second HID version uses a similar HID projector and bulb, but has the components for both the auto leveling AND the AFS system. Aka some 04-09 Rx330/350's out there have HID without the AFS. So if you see an Rx330/350 with HID's, it still not might have AFS. The 06-09 Rx400h's all came with the HID with AFS, but the Rx330 and Rx350's mixed and match. The only way to tell the difference between "HID with AFS" and "HID without AFS" is by looking at the back side of the headlights. I don't have pics, but when researching the headlights you should be able to tell the difference. Some sellers might say "non-AFS" and "AFS" to differentiate the two, but it's best to look. Just don't assume because you see the projector that it must have AFS... The last thing you want to do is get the right side headlight being the HID AFS version and the left side headlight the HID non-AFS version. You'll be able to tell the difference in output and cutoff line shape between the two ;) If you want, you might want to get the HID non-AFS version headlights, this way you can avoid having to worry about aiming the AFS motors... BUT, the projector used in this non-AFS version headlight does not perform as well as the AFS version headlight projector. Personally, i would get the HID AFS version headlights just for the better output :)
  43. 1 point
    You can buy a used set of OEM HID Projector - version 04-09 Rx330/350/400h headlights and do the conversion. The bolt patterns are the same. You will need to do some hardcore wiring though, as the plugs will be very different. You'd need to splice the wires going to your present halogen low beam bulb, and wire them to the HID headlight ballast. The 12V will activate the ballast which will illuminate the HID bulb. No extra harness required, as there's enough current there. Then splice your present high beam bulb to the HID headlight's high beam bulb, which is the same. You will also lose the AFS/Auto-Leveling functions, as these both require special computer and switch components worked into the car's main computer. The halogen car's don't come with the software in the computer, so it wouldn't be possible. There have been people though, who have bought special motor drivers to work the auto-leveling motors, so you can move them manually via a switch you put in the cabin, but again, it would require a lot of wiring. And when buying the HID version headlights, stay away from the 04-06 Rx330 headlights as many of them have a condensation problem you won't find out about until you've already installed them in the car. The headlights produced for the 07-09 Rx350/400h no longer had the problem and are your best bet It'll be a fun project :) Good luck!
  44. 1 point
    I finally got the stock sub working with my aftermarket stereo. No audio integration harness is needed. All you need is a RCA to speaker wire cable and tap into the Sub + and Sub - wires (black wire and white wire). I was following the diagram http://www.intellexual.net/faq/lexusstereo.swf for Socket D and it lists the Sub + signal as D1 and Sub - signal as D5 ; however that did not work so I thought maybe I was looking at the diagram backwards. So I tried tapping the speaker wire to D4 and D10 and heard the subwoofer. So it appears you need to tap into D4 and D10 instead of D1 and D5. Great day. Got the subwoofer working and installed the double DIN Metra kit.
  45. 1 point
    Thanks for your reply- I'm new to this site so can you help me with searching under the threads- show I just use the search button?
  46. 1 point
    I came here today specifically looking for a thread like this. I am so unhappy with my dealer right now I could scream. Long story short, EVERY time I take it in for something that should be warrantied, they try to tell me it's not covered. I have the 100,000 Certified Lexus Warranty and currently have 76,000 miles on my 2000 RX300. The latest is weird-the HANDLE on the back hatch broke! I did not do anything to it-one day I tried to open it and it just jiggled-kind of like when it's locked. So I take it in and it takes them 90 minutes to tell me that the handle is broken and they need to order a part. And that they called the Corporation and it is NOT covered under warranty. AND it will cost ME $423.00!! I am so stunned. I paid extra money for this vehicle so that I would have the certified warranty. I could have purchased it from a non-Lexus dealer for much cheaper, but thought I would have better coverage by going through THEIR dealer. We called Lexus and "Raul" told us he'll speak to his boss and get back to us within 2 days. I am seriously considering NOT buying another Lexus because there are only two dealers within a reasonable driving distance from me and this is BS. Plus this stupid dealer once again did NOT have a loaner for me so I had to sit there the whole time. I am thoroughly disappointed by this and hope that the corporation will help me out. Otherwise I know for sure I will NOT buy another Lexus. I'll be in the market for a new SUV within the next year, and I'll tell you, right now the BMW is looking mighty nice. VERY DISAPPOINTED IN LEXUS OF BROOKFIELD, WISCONSIN Jill
  47. 1 point
    We bought an '04 RX330 FWD 18" wheels, black on tan interior w/birds eye wood trim. We bought it in feb'05 w/17K on it and now have 25k. 1. Dash rattle. (Full TSB performed were they take off the dash and insulate the mounting clips. solved the problem) 2. Both visors replaced due to defect in flip up motion of vanity mirror. 3. Rubber exhaust hanger broken. (replaced by dealer) 4. Brake recall performed (switch changed by dealer) 5. Cup holder cover mechanism was sticking. (unstuck by dealer) 6. Injector ticking (yet to be serviced) 7. Hesitation (yet to be serviced) 8. Passenger side wind noise i think (yet to be serviced). All service and work done at Lexus of Bossier City LA
  48. 1 point
    I have the same problem with both of my RX300s. It seems like the idle is running low when the car is sitting in drive. When I put it in park, the idle goes up slightly and the vibration noise goes away. I'm sure there is a way to modify the car to fix the problem.
  49. 1 point
    Okay, got my manual with me...Before you check any fuse, turn your key to "accessories" position or "on" position, do not start the engine. See if your lighter works. The pressure created from the heated coil is what makes the lighter pops out. If the light doesn't work, it obviously won't create any presure so it won't pop out. The fuse you are looking for is fuse #5, rated at 15 amp. This is located in the Driver's side kick panel. Exit the car, duck under the steering wheel and look up just above the gas pedal. You should see a fuse box. It is covered with a plastic cover. This is driver's side kick panel. You are looking for FUSE #5
  50. 1 point
    01RX300 with 60K on it. Only when idle at D shiift, it sounds like subwoofer is working....even when I shut off fan/AC, Music. I do not know if it is the same as yours. Any idea? or easy fix? Or it could be included in the extended warranty? Any thanks!!! :cries:

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